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Thread: My 1988 735i Lifeline

  1. #1
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    My 1988 735i Lifeline

    Hello everyone!

    I bought this 1988 BMW 735i back at the beginning of January and I've been on quite the roller coaster of emotions. I bought it because I needed something to help out with getting groceries, rainy days and winter weather. There was an ice storm looming days away and I was in a bind, my then and current daily is a 2013 Triumph Speed Triple SE, so not exactly safe or practical. 3 days after buying it, in the middle of a week-long ice storm, it died as I was coming home from work.

    Luckily it died at the entrance to my neighborhood and AAA was kind enough to tow it the last quarter mile. I believed that the head gasket had finally given up the ghost and there was no longer compression because the engine shook quite a bit but refused to turn over. I started ordering parts like a madman, hoses, gaskets, hardware, a new cylinder head, etc. I spent 2 days in the freezing rain replacing that head gasket, went to start it up and nothing. No fuel in the rail and I thought the fuel pump had died.

    Long story short, I'm an idiot. Yes, the head gasket was leaking quite a bit, but come to find out, my tank was empty. Replaced the pump anyway and filled the tank. The guy I bought it from had replaced the tank with one that had been cleaned up and has this annoying red sealant on the outside of it, and he'd spliced some of the vent hoses and made a mess of the deal. So my tank won't fill beyond halfway. I just bought all the hoses that go to the tank from ECS Tuning and I'm going to get those installed tomorrow.

    But I need more help, a lot more, I have a Bentley manual and the power of the internet, but I need the power of the BMW fans. It's a sweet car, factory 5 speed, 25% Locking Diff and plenty of life. I want to eventually build a second engine for a turbo and give the car some more pep for its size. Enough to be on par with some of the modern cars. But right now, I want to diagnose and solve some of the weird issues I'm having and maybe make Shogun my new best friend. Because my car is weird, some things aren't in the Bentley manual and some things I can't seem to find. It was born on January 20th, 1988, so it's an early E32. VIN is WBAGB3313J1630814. I've decoded it online to find the options, but I can't decode it with the Bentley manual for some reason because there's a number where there should be a letter or vice versa, I can't remember.

    So, issue number one, I changed the headlights over to those Plug-and-play Depo Smileys, they look great although one had a tiny crack when it arrived. The old headlights were cracked, filling with water, and a lot of the hardware and adjusters were broken. I went out and bought about $100 worth of nice H1 bulbs and some LED's for the city lights (more on that later). And on my way home from work my headlights got extremely bright and then went out. I pulled over, swapped the high beams into the lows and made it home. Next day, the same thing. Stopped at Autozone and bought the cheap ones and those have been in there ever since. But my headlights do pulse at high RPM and they randomly get really bright and then go back to being dim while driving normally. I believe this to be the voltage regulator on my alternator, but my alternator isn't original. It has a ToughOne sticker on it, and the part number had faded off and the customer support number is all that remains. So, do I buy a Bosch alternator? 115amp or 140amp? Or am I missing something, also, the PNP connectors for the city lights, where do I plug those into to get my money out of them?

    Issue number two might be related to issue number one, automotive electrics are not my cup of tea. I've replaced all the light bulbs for my gauge cluster and OBC, too many were burnt out and I went ahead and opted for LEDs to make the fix more permanent. But the backlights for my LCD display will sometimes be really dim on the right side and sometimes will work fine. (Sidenote, my ABS light will come on sometimes when I'm driving and blink and then stay solid and then go away, is this serious?). My cluster is a Programa remanufactured unit.

    Issue numbero 3, my steering is loud and obnoxious. Like, it sounds like I'm killing a baby elephant under my hood. I've read up on this, one hose has a small leak at the return line from the pump, so I assumed that air is possibly entering the system, but I've also heard this can be the Servotronic valve, bad pump seals and possibly a filter. Suggestions?

    I have many more, but I want to keep this going for a while, maybe this will be like a rising phoenix and the car can be reborn and brought back to its former glory, at least that's what I hope. And then throw boost and 500 ponies into the mixture for the giggles. Any and all help is appreciated. Pictures of my gorgous frauline can be found here: https://imgur.com/a/FXeYKqv

  2. #2
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    VIN decoded
    Fahrzeugangaben
    ========================================
    Fahrgestellnummer: WBAGB3313J1630814
    Typ-code: GB33
    Typ: 735I (USA)
    E-F-R-Baureihe: E32
    Baureihe: 7
    Bauart: LIM
    Lenkung: LL
    Türen: 4
    Motor: M30
    Hubraum: 3.50
    Leistung: 155 (211 hp)
    Antrieb: HECK
    Getriebe: MECH
    Farbe: 139 - BRONZITBEIGE METALLIC
    Prod.-Datum: 1988-01-20
    S209 Sperrdifferenzial /limited slip final drive
    S216 Servolenkung-Servotronic
    S240 Lenkrad Leder Airbag / steering wheel leather, airbag
    S488 Lordosenstütze Fahrer u. Beifahrer / lumbar support driver + pass seat
    S494 Sitzheizung Fahrer/Beifahrer - seat heating driver + pass seat

    Alternators were both possible, 115 and 140A http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=12_1587
    I assume you have a 115A which was standard, the larger one was only used when more equipment was factory installed like a phone.
    Flickering headlights: check the voltage output of the alternator. Also a too high voltage output can cause such failure. Maybe you need a new voltage regulator.
    H1 bulbs: are they 55W or higher? If higher, you probably burnt the fuse and even some wires, I had this once years ago when I installed H1 100W instead of 55W.

    "But the backlights for my LCD display will sometimes be really dim on the right side and sometimes will work fine">>>probably a contact problem of the bulb sockets. Slap the dash in such case with your hand, if the light get's brighter, it is a contact problem of the bulb socket, re-bend the contact surfaces.

    Sidenote, my ABS light will come on sometimes when I'm driving and blink and then stay solid and then go away, is this serious?>>>> has to be checked, clean the sensors

    "my steering is loud and obnoxious. Like, it sounds like I'm killing a baby elephant under my hood. I've read up on this, one hose has a small leak at the return line from the pump, so I assumed that air is possibly entering the system, but I've also heard this can be the Servotronic valve, bad pump seals and possibly a filter. Suggestions?"

    That you have to investigate further. Is it the power steering pump, the steering links, or the steering gear box.
    Old hydraulic hoses you have to replace.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  3. #3
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    1988 BMW 735i
    I knew me and Shogun were going to be best friends eventually. I've been going through all your tips and tricks guides to fix some things with this car. I do have two additional questions that I can't find the answer to on here. Because my car is earlier in production, it limits me on suspension options. I'd really like to get a set of Bilstein B8 sport shocks to go with the set of H&R sport springs I have in my trunk. Would it be possible to change the parts over to the 03/1988 and up parts and without needing to do major surgery or spend a bunch on things like new strut housings? The Bentley manual shows the difference, so do I just need new shock mounts?

  4. #4
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    There are specialists for shocks and springs here on the forum which can help you. Use realoem.com and compare what is different, I assume you also have to change the shock mounts, there was a change in the shaft diameter of the shocks soemwhere 1988/9.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  5. #5
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    I got caught in a heavy rain on the way to work today. It started to act weird when I pulled into the parking lot, steering was getting heavy and the gauge cluster and OBC were getting really dim. When I left to go home, I made it a block before all the lights went out, I lost all power steering, and then the car died and spun out. I had AAA tow me home and I don't know what's wrong with it. It's getting power, the lights and dash will come on with the key in, but it all dies immediately when you turn the key. I pulled the battery, which is only a year old, and put it on the charger and it says it's at 75%. I just don't know how to fix it. And I'm exhausted... Someone, please help.

  6. #6
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    Either the alternator is dead (voltage regulator brushes are done), or the fusible links. There are 2 fusible links on your car, one is for the fuse box under the rear seat driver side and the other one is inline close to the battery and that goes to the front and feeds the e-box. Check these first https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=fusible+links
    especially the one which goes towards the engine bay. First check that fusible link

    when you have the engine running again, you can unlock the OBC and check the voltage the alternator is producing, see here http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/obc_...c_secrets.html

    more pics fusible links http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/377728/
    Last edited by shogun; 07-01-2018 at 12:22 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  7. #7
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    Check your grounds wire. The one in the engine bay under the intake housing.

    I had a slightly similar problem recently where I was having low voltage reading on the OBC (Test #9). I had weak starter crank (would still fire up anyway), voltage drop to low to mid 12's with brand new battery when fully loaded. Bended myself over replacing the voltage regulator, replacing the alternator, checking and re-checking the wiring to and from both alternator and starter. Turns out it was just the ground wire not making good contact! Cleaned everything up, re-seated it and everything was fixed! Strong starter, mid 13 volatage on full load.

    Full disclosure: I did an engine swap and I may have not bolted that ground wire properly.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by cirrusblau View Post
    Check your grounds wire. The one in the engine bay under the intake housing.
    I think I love you right now... I pulled the air filter box, found the culprit immediately. Took a minute to get it out, but I got about 50 yards of electrical tape on it and the engine has never fired up so fast. I'm going to get one of those upgraded ground wire kits from Guten parts and I should be right as rain for a little while. Still, need to probably replace the alternator and/or voltage regulator as per Shogun. As a college dropout with a motorcycle loan, personal loans, credit cards and student loans, I'm relying on this car to be my reliable daily for at least another year. Cheers, gentleman! I owe you both a pint when I see you.

  9. #9
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    Glad to have helped! Cheers!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by StrifeWolfe View Post
    ... need to probably replace the alternator and/or voltage regulator
    Usually these Bosch alternators on the M30 and M70 engines last very long. Complete voltage regulator costs you between 50-1xx based on the brand, if you want to make it cheaper and have a soldering iron, there are for about $5 alternator brushes only such as STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS GB299 Intermotor; Width - Inches: 7/32"; Thickness - Inches: 1/4" for 115 or 140 Amp
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  11. #11
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    Sad news today, the car died yet again, I checked the ground cable again, but that's fine. I checked the cables from the alternator to the starter and those are pretty roasted. The ring terminal on the D+ cable was basically held on by hopes and dreams, my B+ cable is pretty rough as well. I ordered an ACDelco reman. Bosch 140amp unit and a ACDelco Reman. Bosch starter as well. Still waiting for Guten Parts to ship my cables.

    It was a rather stressful day, someone gave me a gift card to Panera Bread and because I have negative dollars in the bank, I made the drive to get a salad. Car wouldn't start to leave the Panera parking lot. My buddy came to see if we could jump it and get it back to my work. But it died again about a block later. And to add insult to injury, my sunroof got stuck open. So I'm going to get AAA to tow it home yet again while I wait for the parts. Sigh... Someone offered a trade for an old Honda when I get the Bimmer running.

  12. #12
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    When you switch ignition on, is the battery light on and then disappears when the engine has been started? If not the exciter wire is the problem to the alternator, without exciter signal the alternator does not produce power. See my website under fixes where I replaced the cable from alternator to B+ pole and also fixed the plug next to the B+ pole which has 3 wires, 1 for exciter wire to cluster and the other 2 for engine oil level.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  13. #13
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    Alright Shogun, so I read through your guide about 12 times now. I think I can grasp it. Automotive electrical is my greatest weakness. I'm god awful when it comes to the subject, and this car isn't the most simple. So, on Thursday, when my new alternator power and engine ground cables show up, I can cut the old one out of the metal tube. I already have it removed, and I cleaned and installed a new ring connector for the D+ wire. I hate to brag, but compared to your V12, the M30 is incredibly easy to get into and get to this out. While I was in there, I pulled the alternator out in preparation for the new one. It took a little bit of grunting and a 2-foot breaker bar but I got the pulley and fan off of it. I checked the voltage regulator just out of curiosity. The brushes were not worn evenly for some reason, they both had plenty of meat left on them, but one had more than the other. I don't know if this is normal, but I set it aside and decided not to mess with it. The new alternator will arrive on Saturday along with the new starter that I got because it looks like mine is original to the car (thank goodness for good old Bosch reliability) and I just want to play it safe. I guess I'll have to pick up some universal joint sockets and extensions at the local Autozone to get that damned top bolt out.

    I spent a little bit of time working on the car today, replaced the ignition coil and pulled the cluster again to clean some contacts for the lights and make sure they were in there and firmly seated. My right turn signal indicator worked for a little while and then worked every once in a while and then it didn't work at all. So hopefully I have that resolved. Also checked the Batt. light. What I'm most concerned about are the 2 connectors in that metal tube, I know one is for the oil level, so the other must be for the exciter wire? I've never heard about that thing, so you'll have to forgive me. I'm better at working on engines than getting zapped. I tried to see if I could have a local shop remake the harness with what I have already, and I've narrowed it down to 2. So if push comes to shove, and I need to get the old girl some professional wiring.

    Also got the sunroof closed with a 4mm hex socket and a ratchet. I had to wrap my power steering reservoir in shop towels because it was slowly leaking while it was baking in the 100-degree weather with the hood open. I need to eventually replace some of the power steering lines and pump if I decide to keep this car. Next small job is to fix my fuel hose from the hardline to the rail, it's also original to the car with its crimp style clamp and I now know why I get a lovely gas smell sometimes. I still can't find a shop that will do the thrust arms and steering linkage and not charge me $700. And I just can't do it myself and give the car an alignment it desperately needs at the same time. The car is an amazing Beast with its high build quality but the serious amount of little problems that it has. That '88 Honda Civic hatch with 99k miles is starting to sound better and better. I really appreciate everyone's help on this, especially you, Shogun. I love BMWs and hope that if I do part ways with this E32, I can eventually find my way into another, more modern car. Happy 4th for those that celebrate it. Let's hope my motorcycle doesn't decide to kill me before I get the car moving again.

  14. #14
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    Remember, the wiring on my website is from an 750 engine, could be a bit different on yours.
    Hydraulic hoses: remove them and find a hydraulic shop which remakes them = they cut the crimp sleeves, replace the hydraulic hose and use a new crimp sleeve and press it onto the original metal pope connection, cheaper than a new one. The hydraulic hose is designed to handle 180 bar originally, the power steering pump makes 130 bar and the rest is safety margin.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  15. #15
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    are slow
    Happy 4th. Hopefully the new alt solves most of your issues.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by strifewolfe

    "my steering is loud and obnoxious. Like, it sounds like I'm killing a baby elephant under my hood. I've read up on this, one hose has a small leak at the return line from the pump, so I assumed that air is possibly entering the system, but I've also heard this can be the Servotronic valve, bad pump seals and possibly a filter. Suggestions?"
    As said , keep the level up, but PS fluid like any oil needs a drain and refill after a certain number of miles or hours of use. PS draining can be tricky, running too low will destroy the pump especially after replacing the hoses, even our Indie messed up. One easy approach is to drain the PS oil by using a turkey baster or any suction device, replace with fresh fluid. The PS on the Jeep went from loud to quiet after a complete flush.

    On a side note: autozone has a tool loan program, put a deposit on the tool, money is refunded after return, the time limit is 30 days or more. Another side note is that their lifetime warranty on part is a good warranty because most of the remanufactured parts are terrible, not fun to change the starter 3 times in 3 months on the Jeep... at least I can do it in 40min... now. In fact it has been a problem for most remanufactured parts.

  17. #17
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    1988 BMW 735i
    So, after a lot of skulking around online, I finally had an amazing "Ahah!" moment. BMW did something weird when they made the cable in question for my E32. P#12511719537 You see, they made the same part and used multiple part numbers. So, when I tried to search for this part number, I barely found anything. Because, according to BMW, they made this part specifically for this car. As shown here:https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=12511719537

    However, they did not make this part just for this car, they had to make it for the 730i and for the 535i. Right? So I did some digging. And I found this page: https://translate.google.com/transla...%2F12521711443

    So I started looking for the part numbers used for item#14. Until... AHAH!!! I found this: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...uine-bmw-part/. This is the same exact part as what is broken on my car now. In fact, it looks better made than what is on my car now. This one has solder on both of the ring terminals, rather than just being crimped on like mine. So, my car is going to be saved by a Euro part. Excellent. Now I just have to find someone that can get it to me before next month. Otherwise, I'll have to go back to finding someone to rebuild the piece locally.

  18. #18
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    Great news, the car is running. The new alternator is working like a champ and my ghetto D+ wire fix is successful. The power and ground wire kit that I ordered from Guten Parts and made by Bavarian Restoration came in and only had the ground cable. So I'm waiting to hear back from them about that. I have some odds and ends coming from ECS soon, like a new alternator cooling hose, because mine crumbled in my hands when I took it off. I unlocked my OBC and ran Test09 to check the voltage after getting the car back together, and I saw a glorious 14v+. So all in all, I would say this has been a successful fix. Stressful, but successful. I am still probably going to trade for that '88 Honda. This E32 just gives me too much anxiety.

  19. #19
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    I have another question. When I turn the key to On, but not start, the battery light is supposed to come on correct? Because mine does not despite the OBC indicating 14v. So does this potentially mean that it's not charging the battery as it should? Should I take the cluster out for the 10th time and attempt to fix this again?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by StrifeWolfe View Post
    I have another question. When I turn the key to On, but not start, the battery light is supposed to come on correct? Because mine does not despite the OBC indicating 14v. So does this potentially mean that it's not charging the battery as it should? Should I take the cluster out for the 10th time and attempt to fix this again?

    when i pull my cluster and replace the bulb with a new bulb, it does not lit up, the "ears" on the bulb holder doesnt seem to have a good contact with the circuit board, by cleaning it and bending it, now i have battery lights lit up. yet my alternator was toasted, sent to a repair shop, replaced new with a new armature, new rectifier and new bearings, hopefully all came out good after this. and start chasing the tranny issue, i hope the tranny upset prob now was because of the voltage is not reaching anywhere above 12.2v. i heard that the gearbox solenoid wont be happy and stop working once the voltage is low
    Last edited by G46; 07-09-2018 at 04:12 AM.

  21. #21
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    Sounds like you've got just a couple of minor issues to get your car running well. The US spec cars aren't wired up to use the city lights, but one of my cars has them and they are spliced into the parking lights. Just a heads up, when you go to replace that fuel line get some Gates Barricade fuel hose, and some of the fuel injection specific hose clamps. I got mine at O'Reilleys, the hose is 5/16" ID which is very very close to 8mm. Inexpensive and holds up to E85 gas and the heat under the hood. Also, check out FCPEuro for parts - faster shipping and lifetime warranty on everything.
    1989 750iL schwarz/schwarz
    1991 M5 schwarz/silbergrau
    2013 328i coupe diamondschwarz/caramel
    2003 525iT orient blue/tan
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by G46 View Post
    when i pull my cluster and replace the bulb with a new bulb, it does not lit up, the "ears" on the bulb holder doesnt seem to have a good contact with the circuit board, by cleaning it and bending it, now i have battery lights lit up.
    This was exactly the problem. Fixed it with some contact cleaner and a pair of needle nose pliers. I'm going to order some replacements to fix the others. New alternator, patched cable, upgraded ground cable, new ignition coil and fresh oil and filter. The car has been running great. Needs an alignment and the thrust arms replaced still. I really want to get some Moosehead Engineering spherical bearings for the new upper arms that I have. Also going to have the center link, end links, pitman arm and rear dogbones replaced. Eventually going to go with poly rear subframe bushings and some OEM replacement diff bushings. Also, going to eventually address the exhaust, clutch, shifter and motor/trans mounts. These are all things I want to fix over the long term, but for now, I'm just going to get some things paid off until I really need to spend some money again.

    My goals are thus:

    Exhaust: OEM replacement catalyst with new hardware and gaskets and a Billy Boat cat-back exhaust system.

    Clutch: Lighter flywheel, Sachs Performance Clutch Kit, braided stainless line, brass pivot pin and replaced master and slave cylinders plus other wear items.

    Shifter: UUC short shifter with Delrin rear carrier bushing, tall shift knob, and a new shift boot.

    Steering: Replaced pump, lines rebuilt by a hydraulic shop, replace all linkage with a 4 wheel alignment.

    Performance: Turner Motorsport chip, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, M-sport front and rear sway bars, and finally install my H&R sport springs with some new dampers.

    Long Term Car Goals: Rebuild engine/build a new engine to handle boost, install a subtle stereo system, replace all wear items and fix all the minor problems, or none of the above and get a newer Bimmer that has more life/potential.

    I don't really want it to be a crazy fast car. I just want a car that I can tune up on my days off and still rely on it to fire up every day to make the commute.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by biasvoltage View Post
    Sounds like you've got just a couple of minor issues to get your car running well. The US spec cars aren't wired up to use the city lights, but one of my cars has them and they are spliced into the parking lights. Just a heads up, when you go to replace that fuel line get some Gates Barricade fuel hose, and some of the fuel injection specific hose clamps. I got mine at O'Reilley's, the hose is 5/16" ID which is very very close to 8mm. Inexpensive and holds up to E85 gas and the heat under the hood. Also, check out FCPEuro for parts - faster shipping and lifetime warranty on everything.
    I've used FCPEuro quite a bit. I like them, they're good for most of the little parts that I need. I'm actually waiting to purchase and order from them for the valve I need to fix my heater control valve and new intake boots and clamps. I was just able to get the OEM BMW hose from ECS, mine is the older style that goes from the bottom of the firewall on the driver's side and goes all the way up and over the intake manifold to the fuel rail. I will need to get some good clamps though. I've been using a bulk pack of stainless steel hose clamps that has a variety of sizes, so it's been good for vacuum and coolant hoses. I usually bundle orders from any place that I order, so I'll add a lot of small things to the cart and wait till payday and then pull the trigger and get all the little bits that I need. There is one massive job that I want to undertake sometime next year if I decide to keep this car. I want to do the clutch, so at the same time I want to replace the driveshaft, guibo, clutch hydraulics and do the exhaust at the same time because it'll all have to come out anyway. So I'm probably going to start squirreling away parts throughout the year.

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