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Thread: Rotor Screw Won't Budge And Stripped!

  1. #1
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    Rotor Screw Won't Budge And Stripped!

    Hi all, 1995 525i 5SPD 278k

    I attempted to replace my rear driver side rotor and pads but..., the darn screw that holds the rotor in place is rusted on and stripped! I blasted it with Liquid Wrench, heated it up, tried to drill a hole in the bolt, and used extractors (won't grip the bolt). Is there a trick in getting that little bolt out during times like this?

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    Just keep drilling. The head will pop off eventually

  3. #3
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    Yeah, by now drilling the head is your only option I guess.
    Next time use an impact after soaking for a day in penetrant. Don't even need a battery or air impact, just a hammer style impact screwdriver helps with these jobs (as well as a mapp torch)

  4. #4
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    Drill it out enough and hit the back side of the rotor with a BFH. I have run about 100,000 miles with one of mine drilled out and not used.
    Black on Black 740i - 10/92 build date, 225,000 miles.
    Delphin on Cherry 533i - 4/84 build date, 136,000 miles
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  5. #5
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    For such a small screw, they can cause a lot of grief. Try giving the screw head a couple of whacks with a hammer and chisel. Then try to rotate it using the same tools. If that fails, drill the head off as suggested above. Once the rotor is off, you may be able to get a pair of small vice grips on what remains of the screw and rotate it.

  6. #6
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    Since i was replacing the rotor i didn’t mind doing thing. But i took my Dremel and cut a deep slot into the screw and stuck a flathead socket into it.


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  7. #7
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    I had the same problem the other month and I took Ross's advice of just whacking the back of the rotor with a hammer a few times and it came right off, taking the head of the screw with it. I would have ear pro on when doing it.
    Current Fleet:
    E34 1991 M5 Macaoblau on Complete (ruined)Leather Champagne - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1705166

    Past:
    E34 1989 535i 5-Speed AlpineweissII on Natur - Parted
    E34 1992 525i 5-Speed Islandgrun on Pergament - Parted
    E34 1995 540i 6-Speed ShwarzII on Shwarz - Sold to Sneezy.
    E34 1995 525i 5-Speed Calypso Red on Parchment - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1748143 - Sold locally.
    E39 1998 528i 5-Speed Black on Black - Sold locally.
    E34​ 1993 M5 Alpinweiss on Black - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...lpinweissII-M5 - Parted


  8. #8
    moroza's Avatar
    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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    I really must sound like a broken record by now... See my comment in your previous thread about how to drill it, followed by using anti-seize to prevent this from recurring.

    Also, the only reason that bolt exists is to assist in wheel installation by lining up the bolt holes. It doesn't provide any meaningful clamping force; the lug bolts are what actually keeps the rotor in place on the hub. So leaving it off is an option, especially with a stud conversion, or if you do use it, there's no need to torque it any higher than for it not to fall out when a wheel is removed.
    Last edited by moroza; 06-19-2018 at 01:17 AM.

  9. #9
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    This. Always apply a small dab of anti seize guys.

    -Greg


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  10. #10
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    FYI -ECS sells a SS replacement.…and use anti-seize.


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  11. #11
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    Replacing the rotor?
    Get a big hammer and hit it HARD from behind where the caliper would sit with the bolt positioned at that same position on the clock. The rotors are cast hence somewhat brittle, and the metal under the head of the retaining bolt is thin, a good hit will break it out. With the rotor off you'll have good access to the remains of the bolt which you can grip with a locking pliers.

    Best to put one lug bolt in a few turns to retain the rotor when it lets go and, again, anti seize paste is your(or the next guy's) friend.
    Last edited by ross1; 06-19-2018 at 08:15 AM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  12. #12
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    I have removed a few by cutting a straight slot in them and turning them out.
    "Helicopters: 10,0000 pieces of metal fatigue rotating around an oil leak."


  13. #13
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    Thank you all for the advice. I will smack it from behind. If that doesn't work, I'll grab the grinder and grind a slit in the middle of the bolt, then turn with a flat head. Since I am replacing the rotor, there's no worry if I grind a slit on the rotor along with the bolt. Thank you all! Much appreciated..

  14. #14
    moroza's Avatar
    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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    New rotor, don't care about the old? In that case, put on safety glasses and bash the living flick out of it while thinking of somebody you don't like (perhaps the chucklehead who forgot anti-seize on that screw and your wheel lug bolt); get some stress out while you're at it

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