2001 e46 330ci 5 speed Will Crank, No Start, Fuel pump tests good

[Pzary3233]

Well, here we go... I am getting to the point of pulling hair out... I've never messed with e46s I've had e30s, e36s, and built an LSx E36M3 so I'm not afraid of electrical stuff but troubleshooting SUCKS!

Here is what I have:
2001 330Ci 5 speed
Bought the car a week ago Sunday.
The car was running great all last week, no codes to bring up the SES light.
Saturday I replaced the Final Stage Resistor to get my blower motor working. Replaced the missing fuse #50
After I did this repair the car started up and idled fine for about 2 minutes then I shut it off and went in for the night.
Yesterday I did brakes and replaced the wheel bolts with wheel studs, and replaced the swaybar endlinks with some adjustable ones.
Once the car was back on the ground I got in it to take a quick drive. The car spins over but does not start. I do not hear the fuel pump prime.
The car has been outside but we have not had rain. It has been super hot 100* days.

Here is where I am in the diagnosis:

-Fuel Pump Fuse 54 - Good - Checked with Ohm Meter
-Fuel pump relay - Swapped with Horn Relay, No change in the Fuel Pump (Horn still worked)
-Engine electronics fuse 3 - Fuse good checked with Ohm Meter - However, I am NOT getting power to pin 6 (Red/Violet) on the relay connector - I need to probe this circuit further I believe.
-DME plug 4, pin 10 pulled to ground when key is turned and engine cranks - I believe this is part of my problem. I am NOT getting pin 4 (black/violet) pulled to ground when cycling the key (priming) or trying to crank (pumping). I am checking this with an Ohm meter is that a viable test? or do I need to do this with a test light?
-Pin 8 of the relay socket (Red/White) - HAS 12 Volts
-Pin 2 of relay socket (White/Blue) - Has continuity to fuel pump
-If Pins 8 and 2 are jumpered I get a functioning fuel pump. (This rules out a BAD fuel pump)

What I still need to do: check for fuel pressure with the pump jumper wire in place to make sure I am headed in the right direction.

My thoughts are the DME isn't getting power, the ignition switch could be bad, and I have also read that some people point towards the crank position sensor (However a cam sensor gets used if the crank sensor fails so I am not buying that one yet). One thing I have noticed is that when I am starting the car the temp gauge goes to the red mark while cranking. I didn't notice the tach moving but that is something I will check at lunch.

After this, I am kinda stumped as to what to do. I see a lot of people just throwing parts at the car at that point but no consistent diagnosis. Most people have a blown Engine Electronics Fuse 3 which they can then figure out the issue from there.

[Pzary3233]

Welp, easy fix I probed the DME fuses and found fuse 28 was not getting power. Traced the wire and found it kinked. Fixed it and she runs great!

[shadowpuck]

hurray for troubleshooting! glad you were able to get it fixed!

[MarcoZandrini]

But why did the fuse blue? That’s the question.

[Pzary3233]

Because there was a kink in the wire behind the fuse block where it goes into the tray which actually cut the wire (Like a working failure where it gets bent too many times and breaks), the fuse for some reason was not blown, which I found odd. I guess it never decided to ground out.