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So I got some 750 calipers and brackets from another member and ordered at set of rotors and pads from ECS. I also got new brake lines and bronze bushings. When I was at the track with 740 brakes and hawk HPS pads my brakes would fade buy the 3rd or 4th lap. I actually changed to Cool carbon S/T pads and the fade was gone and the anti-lock was engaging in the heavy braking corners. I'm going back to HPS to do an apples to apples comparison of the brake systems. The pads only last about four track days so they will be gone in no time.

So my last time out at the track when i was going 100% the wheel felt like I was going over marbles and I could smell hot grease. The right front has been making noise for a while so I figured it was wheel bearings. I drove the car on the road for several hundred miles after with no indication of problems. Only at high load did I really notice. After I got the wheels off and spun the hubs they didn't seem that bad.

Anyway the brake and bearing job was pretty easy and straight forward much better that fixing my pixels. The brakes were drop in simple, bolt up the rotor, bracket and caliper. I replaced the hoses just because I was there I expected no improvement from the hoses. I installed the bronze bushings mostly because I was worried about the heat of heavy braking. The rubber bushings showed no signs of problems. I purchased the tool for removing and installing the bushings but it was a waste of money. I just banged them in with a hammer and if they ever need replacing I will bang them out with a hammer. The tool is just a bolt, nut and sleeve.

The bearings were pretty easy as well. You need a 46mm socket and a breaker bar for the nut. In my case and with my extensive experience I just used a hammer and chisel. Once the nut is off I just banged the hub off with a hammer. the inner race from the inner bearing was left on the shaft. I heated it up carefully with a mapp gas torch and it slid right off. After polishing the shaft I heated up the inner races with the same torch and the hub slid right on. Nut back on a few hits with a hammer and chisel and I was all done. Just to be clear in my job on ships I have used this method for removing and installing bearings hundreds of times, I would not recommend it.

So new wheel bearings, 750 brakes and bronze bushings. After the bedding process the brakes feel about the same. They are a bit more touchy when releasing the brakes but no big noticeable difference on the street. My previous rotors were vented and drilled and the new ones are as well. The real test will be at the track, I'm really going to wail on them and then I will update this thread. As of right now the pad contact only appears to be about 70% so they should improve when they have full contact.