New-to-me 1992 735iL – the fun begins!

[Cactuar]

Yes I have seen them.
But it doesn't look like on my car. I think his pictures are from the front door.

[shogun]

I found a comment on a German forum (no pics included) referring to workshop manual section 51-22/1 body equipment, removing or installing L or R rear door lock: remove door trim panel, remove window regulator see 51-37/000, loosen drive, disconnect linkage, drill off rivets and remove door lock.

[Cactuar]

Oh wow that's quite a bit more work than I anticipated!
Thanks Shogun for looking up the information.

Hmm I may consider leaving the door lock alone then...

[Cactuar]

Ok good news! It's easier than I thought.

The E32 is different from the E34, it doesn't use a riveted window regulator.
The regulator and motor are riveted onto a sub-assembly, and that sub-assembly is bolted to the door frame with a few bolts.
That makes servicing somewhat easier, because you can take it out of the car without dealing with rivets.

So in my case I just need to lower the window, unclip it from the regulator, remove the bolts then take out the whole sub-assembly.

I wish I could post pictures. This is the assembly:

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-hkk7...1523292949.jpg
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-hkk7...1523292949.jpg

[Cactuar]

With Shogun's tip I got the lock mechanism out of the rear door, ready to be cleaned. I also took out the front door lock too.

I recorded the process in a new video.
I still need to record part 2, where I hope the cleaning will make a appreciable difference in the way the lock mechanisms operate.

Hope this is useful for some

[theBMWbeast]

You’re doing the Lords work, documenting this. DIY info keeps these cars on the road!

[Cactuar]

Far from the Lord's work, but I know what you mean Thanks!

So today I tested the cleaned and lubricated lock mechanisms.
I just fit them without hooking up the locking rods.

The front door feels a lot snappier and eager to open. There is a nice pop now.
It doesn't require a lot of force to close either, so at the front it's great.

At the rear door though it didn't improve that much.
There is a nicer door handle action (more of a pop when the door opens) but past that, the door isn't free.
It's the same problem I had as before, there is high resistance when opening the door.

I lubricated everything I could see while the door panel is off: the door hinges, the door brake, and even some of the weatherstripping to prevent rubbing (when closing).
The door is still stiff.

So, my next move would be to install a hinge kit: part 41511922737 (2x)
I think the nylon bushing inside the hinge could be bad and causing resistance.

Could it be anything else?

[shogun]

How about the electric actuator for the door lock 51268356066 , is that moving in and out fully and with enough power? ETK shows 2 with the same number for rear doors, so they are interchangeable left and right rear door. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/51268356066/ maybe you can find a used one cheaper.

[Cactuar]

I did not hook up the actuator yesterday in my test. I am looking for mechanical smoothness first before hooking up the other items like linkages and electronic stuff.

[Cactuar]

I removed the door check and cleaned it, also I adjusted the door striker plate.
The result is an easier to close door, with a better handle feeling. It is no longer vague.

Even if the door check is cleaned and lubricated it still makes a rubbing sound.
All my door checks do it, so it might be normal for the E32.

The front door also feels more free, it has momentum to close easily whereas even my improved rear door doesn't have that.
Can someone confirm if their rear doors move freely, or do they stop when you let go?

Anyway, to me it's a good improvement, so I'm happy with it.
I posted a video update:

[moroza]

Where and how did you lube the door brakes? I remember tearing into one to find that the part that rubs and squeaks is not what I guessed from looking at it installed. You used chainsaw oil for those, yes?

On my previous 4/93 530iT, the doors needed nothing, opened and closed with good feel. On my current 1/94 525iT, the fronts are very smooth/heavy but the rears are light/notchy unless the striker is all the way out, and then they don't seal fully. I tried to replace the handle mechanism with an early E34 type, which has a metal handle and a bigger counterweight. It wouldn't fit the newer latch mechanism until trimmed, and then it had awesome feel but jammed shut when I tested the locks. Fortunately I left the door card off so I could get it to unlock, at which point I gave up and went back to the stock handle.

My driver's door has the perfect swing resistance. Front passenger door a bit stiff. Rear doors very loose, to the point that I'm a bit worried about tearing the door brakes one day.

[Cactuar]

The car is out of storage, I went for a short drive to check on everything.
Car drives fine, brakes pull slightly to the left so that's new.

I planned on getting the car in a specialized BMW shop this week to get a bunch of things diagnosed.
But our provincial government just shut down all non-essential businesses.

Crazy times. Hopefully everything returns to normal soon... Stay safe and away from people!

[Cactuar]

My car still doesn't track straight so I decided to take a look tonight.

What I noticed is that the idler arm rubs against a metal plate above it.
It seems unlikely that the metal plate would bend at this location.

Could it be that the idle arm bushing is bad and it changes the angle of the arm?

[shogun]

Idler and Pitman arm alignment and heights
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ht=center+link
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...m-Ideas-needed

tightening torques http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/s-vorderachse.htm

alignment, yes you too can do it
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/710858/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/710868

translated from a German E32 forum: How to adjust the middle tie rod correctly. This tip applies to E23, E32, E38, E34

here is the description of how to adjust the middle tie rod correct.
This is not known to many and if the setting is incorrect, this results in nervous straight-ahead running on bumps, since the toe-in of the wheels changes differently when deflected.
Why is that? The middle tie rod is horizontal and the outer tie rods bend downwards at an angle. As a result, the outer tie rod appears to be lengthened when deflected.
In other words: when rebounded, the dimension (distance) between the outer tie rod ends is smaller than when rebounded. That doesn't matter, since the struts are slanted and the arrangement of the wishbones and pressure struts means that the rest of the undercarriage behaves the same. Or in other words. The track width of the entire undercarriage changes in the way in which the track appears to change when it compresses. This keeps the toe-in neutral when deflected.
If the middle tie rod is installed so that it is at an angle, the following happens:
Right and left tie rods have a different angle. The apparent change in length is therefore different when deflecting, and thus the toe-in of each wheel is different.
This leads to very nervous straight-ahead running on bumps.
How do you measure now?
BMW uses a measuring tool for this, which is screwed into the mount on the lower wishbone. Because most of you will not have the measuring tool, I thought of something else for the DIYer.

You buy a self-leveling laser measuring device from the hardware store. Then you put the car on the lift and adjust the lift fixtures so that the car is absolutely level. (Measure with laser). Use the front mounts on the wishbones on the axle beam as reference points. Then you set the laser on a tripod - if necessary on a ladder - so that it shines just under the wishbone mount. You can then measure with the caliper on the middle tie rod.
ATTENTION: Laser beams could damage the eyes, never look directly into the laser and even better wear laser safety glasses.

Tolerance is 1.2 mm.

How do you adjust? The steering column lever, i.e. the lever of the steering gear and the middle tie rod connects, sits slidably on the pin of the steering gear. You loosen the clamping screw and move it up or down until it fits and tighten the screw again. Attention afterwards, steer completely from right to left and see that everything is free and nothing is stuck.

[Cactuar]

So the center link has to be level?
This means my center link could potentially be too high on the right side, hence the rubbing.
I'll have to dig into this further... I doubt the local shops here have any interest in bothering with such an old steering set up. (most of them just work on old Fords and Chevrolets)

[Cactuar]

I took some height measurements tonight.

Lower control arm bracket (extended line) to the bottom of the ball joint on the center tie rod:
Left 57 mm
Right 66.5 mm

Bottom plane of the subframe (extended line) to the bottom of the center tie rod:
Left 43 mm
Right 49 mm

So the right side of the center link is closer to the frame than the left side.
I need to lower the right side, because it's rubbing against the exhaust shield.

There is no height adjustment on the right side though, not sure what to do?
If I move the pitman arm, could it make the right side go down?

[Cactuar]

This is what I measured:

centerlink_measurement.jpg

[Cactuar]

So I slid the pitman arm on the output shaft to get approx 1.5mm clearance at the top and bottom.
Buttoned everything back and it made no difference.

I plan to replace the entire steering system and the control arms eventually, so for now I will leave it alone.

Found a half-price deal on a set of open box Bremi cap and rotor.
Mine looked barely used (I had already cleaned them) but it was too good a deal to pass.

caprotor.jpg
cap.jpg

I also bought an interesting parts manual from 1993 from the same seller.
It has diagrams for most major parts and parts numbers.
With realoem these kind of guides aren't necessary but I like the vintage factor

If anyone wants me to grab a photo of a particular car or diagram feel free to ask.

parts1.jpg
parts2.jpg
parts3.jpg

[Cactuar]

parts4.jpg
parts5.jpg

[a777fan]

That is very cool. Sometimes paper beats electrons.

[Cactuar]

Today I changed the struts of my trunk lid.
Very easy process, but I still managed to make a 10 minutes video out of it, lol.

It's good to have the original functionality back!

[Cactuar]

Fixed the transmission sliding cover on my car.
Easy fix!

[CroughtonE32]

Great video. Good idea to use a piece of tape to remember where the shift knob was. I had a little trouble with that just recently when I bought a new leather shift knob. Had a new Allen screw but couldn't find the hole in the shaft. Erich told me to use a very small screwdriver to find the hole and then hold it still and push the screw through the shift handle. Worked real well. I've never seen that instruction sticker before. "Always keep your foot on the brake when shifting out of Park or Neutral? That's like, "don't floor the gas and hold your foot on the brake to see if your E32 can leave rubber".

[Cactuar]

Cheers

Yes the label is odd, it seems self evident that you should apply the brakes when shifting into drive.
Your car did not have this label when you bought it new?

Good job with the shift handle change. Do you have pictures?

[CroughtonE32]

Cheers

Yes the label is odd, it seems self evident that you should apply the brakes when shifting into drive.
Your car did not have this label when you bought it new?

Good job with the shift handle change. Do you have pictures?

I don't but what I did was find a very thin jewelers screwdriver and after putting the shift handle all the way down, I pushed the thin screwdriver through the hole in the handle, then moved it up and down maybe a 1/16 of an inch until the screwdriver clicked into the hole. Then I pulled it out and put the new Allen screw in place, took the screwdriver and pushed hard straight through the handle right into the hole. Took my Allen key and a few turns later it was tight. I will take a picture later of the finished product. My original handle of course was Leather, and it somehow fell apart about 20 years in. I bought a wood handle that was nice and using the white stick from the old one fit fine for 10 years. Then it stopped working. I didn't want to do a spring or rubber rebuild so I searched for a few months and finally found a guy in Canada that had an absolutely brand new looking leather one from a parted out car. Really did look like new. Bought it and made the switch. I'm glad to have the car looking like it did the day I rolled it off the lot back in 90.