Great videos...super calm and clear presentation. A man who torques FPR bolts has my respect but a non-black regulator aaargggh! lol.
A further suggestion as to the rough idle situation might be the evap.valve which is plumbed into the charcoal canister as well as the line from the expansion tank to the canister as another possible cause of blockage. That tank is one I mentioned in my long ago post up above/behind the fuel door...which is near the right rear wheel.
The airflow meter may need a look at...it IS serviceable by taking off the black plastic cover, cleaning the contact tracks, retensioning the contact and spring.
I found some articles on this yonks ago via the wayback machine...a 2007 'site.
http//verizon.net/vzerdcib/e34a/id6.html
http//verizon.net/vzerdcib/e34a/id7.html
saved since years on my website http://twrite.org/shogunnew/menu/otherstop.html
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Thanks a lot, I will check out those links!
90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel
By the way, is this the evap stuff you meant?
evapstuff.jpg
Green arrow: line from expansion tank to charcoal canister? What is in it, just fumes or actual fuel?
Red arrow: evap valve? Should I get a multimeter and test the valve?
The expansion tank is near the fuel filler neck, got it.
Btw the exhaust gasses really smell like fuel. My hand reeks of fuel if I put it near the exhaust and then smell it.
90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel
I believe only fumes are in the tank-to-canister line, yes. And correct that is indeed the "evap." (evaporative purge) valve. From what I've read it can be cleaned with brake cleaner and does operate electrically (open/shut). I confess I thought the evap. valve was nearer the rear of the car before I was reminded via a YouTube video. Not sure of the right values re ohms or voltage, sorry. I would definitely look under the car at your fuel lines if you can smell fuel - the filter is under there in front of the fuel tank (looking towards the front of the car if standing at the rear bumper) & suspension assembly tucked right up above suspension components from memory. Perhaps that is blocked or causing a problem as it isn't "too" far from the exhaust system. A bit of a worry smelling fuel near the exhaust ! Old perished rubber lines perhaps ?
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Hmm...on second thought if your exhaust is smelling of fuel, that might mean it's running rich as in expelling unburnt/not fully burnt fuel. I'd definitely have a visual look under there in any case...
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...est-and-repair!
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And there's also this (much longer) is it thread lol? Post, whatever with a positive outcome for rough idle and fuel smell.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ve-Purge-Valve
I do smell fuel at the back, I've identified a leak at one of the fuel filter hoses.
That's why I ordered all new BMW fuel hoses and clamps, I will be replacing everything.
But, I doubt this will fix the fuel smell in the exhaust (rich condition).
Thanks for the info, the evap valve might be faulty. I will need to test it.
90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel
I can't speak to exactly why the gent put silicon within his repaired evap. valve only to venture perhaps he was trying to shore up the hardened/perishing O ring inside. As for the excessive silicon sealant for the two halves that would be pretty easy to not do...i.e. chose to wipe off much excess so no visual mucky stuff. I've just happened to take one off one of my 735i's and can say the one I have when you blow air through it by mouth - from the thinner end - is quite firm and holds excellent return sealing. It's quite easy to remove - unclip the electrical connector by depressing the integral spring clip then squeeze off the thin end hose-to-cannister connection. You can slide it off it's holder with a flat blade screwdriver then either by first removing the rear larger vacuum hose, or not. No need to remove its bracket.
No worries matey, glad to help I've just removed one of my evap. valves from my 735i...easy peasy to do. Remove the electrical connector clip, remove thin hose-to-cannister, slide off bracket with flat blade screwdriver, remove rear larger hose kor reach around and remove the 2nd hose first). Blowing through it by mouth it's (mine is anyway) quite a firm diaphragm/valve with good return sealing. Unless I'm aging lol! The gent who slathered silicon internally to his in the above link perhaps tried to improve sealing as his internal O ring was gone...not really sure why he did that. I can see why he used it to reseal the two halves which could be better finished cosmetically by wiping away much excess IMO. Good luck !
I also removed the evap valve yesterday and tried blowing in it. It seemed to have good resistance but air still passed OK.
No idea what that means
90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel
Can someone please tell me which is the best method to access the fuel tank expansion tank?
This one: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=16_0113
I wanted to remove the inner wheel liner at the back but it's stuck on there really good.
I'd like to avoid taking it off, if possible.
90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel
I have only done it on parts E32s and removed that expansion tank, but for that the wheel and the wheel liner had to come off.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Thanks for the info Shogun.
I will try pulling hard on the liner then
90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel
Alright I pulled the liner. It was difficult because there is a clip at the rear, that you have to undo by reaching under the rear bumper.
Anyway I inspected the expansion tank and all the tubing, everything looks good. In fact the hoses look brand new, they're nice and flexible.
I started the car and listened closely next to the fuel tank and I can definitely hear a loud hissing sound.
It's as if something inside the fuel tank is spraying. It sounds like a loud garden hose.
No noise coming from the expansion tank.
Any ideas what this could be?
90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel
I made a video to show what the noise sounds like:
90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel
difficult to say, but I would pull the fuel pump and see if something is loose insside the tank or the fuel pump itself makes the noise, quickly done.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Blah, I don't like dealing with fuel.
How would I test the fuel pump after it's out of the car?
90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel
First check if the fuel pump unit is fixed at the plastic bracket at the bottom of the tank, maybe it is floating inside the tank, use Johan's site where there are pics to change fuel pump. When the unit is out, you can use 2 starter cables from a separate battery and then make just some short connections to touch plus and minus on the pump directly for a few seconds, that you can hear the sound.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Thanks for the tips Erich, I will do those tests when the warmer temperature is back.
In the meantime I changed the fuel hoses in my car.
It was a simple process. Some clamps were hard to reach, but nothing impossible.
Very little fuel spillage, after releasing the pressure by removing the fuel pump relay.
Of course I made a detailed video to document the process
Enjoy!
90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel
Tonight I tried to lubricate one of the doors to fix the weak opening mechanism. It didn't fix it (I used white lithium grease).
When Dirk (kce9000) came to visit me with his E32 750iL I noticed that on his car the doors literally popped open when you activated the door handle.
On my car nothing really happens, it pops a bit but you still need to pull hard on the handle to initiate the opening.
When opening the rear left door from the inside, let's say I pull the handle, only the first stage of the unlock process happens.
So when pushing the door it remains locked. You have to hold the door handle and push at the same time.
Since lubricating didn't fix it, am I right to assume I need to take out the door lock mechanism, submerge it in solvent to remove the hardened grease, then re-grease it?
I really want to get the nice mechanical pop from Dirk's car
90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel
Can someone please point out how to remove the lock mechanism on the rear doors?
I already removed the three torx screws (with one hidden behind the weatherstrip), and also disconnected the linkages on the outside of the door.
But the lock mechanism won't move, even if I push it hard inside the door.
Are there hidden screws inside the door?
The Bentley manual just says to remove the lock mechanism inside the door... how??
Pretty confused here!
90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel
I tried again tonight to get the lock mechanism out of the rear door without success.
Even hitting the visible latch part with a block of wood and hammer doesn't make it budge. It's properly stuck.
I noticed that it sits behind a sort of retaining tab. Is it bolted to that tab or should it just slide freely under it??
For some reason I can't upload my image here (says quota exceeded) so here is a link https://ibb.co/WGvym10
Thanks in advance
90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel
Did you already see these pics? http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/do...kMechanism.htm
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
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