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Thread: New-to-me 1992 735iL – the fun begins!

  1. #26
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    it is a iL = has LAD, so it needs Pentosin /Febi stuff
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  2. #27
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    92 735iL (12/1991)
    As Shogun says I need Pentosin as I have an iL with LAD. The liquid does look like it's a dark red color. Maybe as the liquid ages and heats/cools the color changes? This is most likely 26 year old Pentosin in that reservoir.

  3. #28
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    Did some research and found an image from e90post.com. Left is new CHF 11S, right is old (60k miles). Looks like the fluid turns dark red with time/wear.

    IMG_2165.jpg

  4. #29
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    Yes, especially when it leaks and has contact to air it get's dark, also in the liquid after many years of use without change there are tiny abrasive particles from the system seals etc.
    Look at this old "juice" http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/LA...cumulators.htm
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  5. #30
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    92 735iL (12/1991)
    Which one of these fuel caps would fit on a 92 735iL please? FCPeuro says all of them fits but they look different. https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/73...992&m=20&e=186

    My car has a metal aftermarket cap and I'd like to restore the original. Also do I need a new gas cap seal? Thanks!

    Edit: looks like the correct cap is 16116750564
    Last edited by Cactuar; 06-27-2018 at 02:55 PM.

  6. #31
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    I don't yet have the equipment to raise the car appropriately nor enough money for parts so I've been crawling under the car and trying to learn about the various systems, trying to spot any dodgy areas etc. Novice alert... After looking at the Bentley I realized I was looking at the idler arm, but I do wonder if the grease/oil residue is normal? Your advice is welcome! Thanks

    idler_arm.jpg


  7. #32
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    That is not normal, probably the rubber cap there is broken and the grease comes out, sooner or later the part will be broken. Get a new tie rod end, there are left hand and right hand threads respect. inner / outer.
    1 piece about $20 for a good brand or less than $10 a no name one. When you change it, first measure exactly the length it is screwed in, then screw in the new one exactly the same and measure again, if you are lucky even no wheel alignment necessary.
    http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...ering_link.htm
    some shops sell ball joint boots, here a fix http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/ba...JointBoot.html
    Last edited by shogun; 07-05-2018 at 02:09 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  8. #33
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    94 740, 74 wagoneer
    Quote Originally Posted by CamE32 View Post
    Ride quality is excellent and it handles great. So far I have no complaints... Also haven't had any slipping in the rain, and they fared well during the winter even though they're definitely not snow tires.

    Overall from my research, I concluded these would be the best bet for keeping the stock tire size and not paying over $100 a tire. I'm happy with my choice. Maybe others can chime in though.

    FYI I run 31psi up front and 35psi in the rear.
    Thank you for your review, sorry for the thread hack. Also as a note we are running higher pressure on the 740... 34 psi all around.

    We are having the same dilemma with the 15" tires/wheels for the 740. The Kumho are rated as V so the sidewalls are stronger than the H rated Fuzion.
    I did a search on the board and found this good post about tires, the test is a bit excessive, but it is a good way to approach tire quality and a fun reading session.

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Vs-Performance!

    So it seems that the kumhos ecsta LX platinum are not a bad choice, and this is what we are inclined to install, we currently have the Michelin pilot, but they are at their wear band indicator, and of course unavailable in 15"

    Our BMW only Indie has Kumho on their loaner and recommended them. Ordered july5th18

    Will update in a new post after testing.

    Back to our schedule program.

    the 735 looks sharp, congratulation. If the AC is ice cold, there are no leaks. Our is still ice cold in 108F, and is still using the R12.

    As said it is a good idea to change all the fluids. As for your leaks, the usual approach is to clean any pooling and fitting to identify the color and the origin of the leak as fluids have a tendency to travel far away from the origin leak. Jeeps are notorious and a drip at a critical location can be as simple as a valve cover, not a rear main crankshaft seal, and I have fixed a lot of leaks on our Jeeps.

    Changing fluid or using a suction tool to remove some of the old fluid works well for PS fluid as the new fluid will bring back some viscosity and sometimes quiets bearing and reduce rate of leak. Not familiar with LAD system, but the previous posts are a very good reference from one of our most qualified users.
    Last edited by letank; 07-06-2018 at 08:48 PM.

  9. #34
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    92 735iL (12/1991)
    @Shogun Great thanks for the info, at least it's good to know a larger boot isn't missing. I'll tackle the suspension bits once all the fluids and ignition stuff is changed.

    @letank Let us know how the Kumho's are after you've tested them please

    I will use a turkey baster to extract as much of the old Pentosin as I can and replace it with new fluid. I ordered three liters of 11S, hopefully there aren't any leaks in the system. I didn't see any leaks, but then again the reservoir is very low on fluid.

    On the week-end I also ordered two more Esco 3 ton jack stands, a cheap funnel for oil changes, a cabin air filter, engine air filter, oil filter and transmission filter kit. That used up all of my hobby budget for this month, especially because of the expensive jack stands! At least it will be safe to work around the car. I'll update later...

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cactuar View Post
    On the week-end I also ordered two more Esco 3 ton jack stands
    if you have a harbor freight near by, they have acceptable tools, not the best quality, but for those items that are not used on a continous basis, it is the best price. A wrench can be grinded when you have special needs, such as a hard to reach area, the us$10 set beats the us$70 dollar set.
    As for stand, I still use woodblocks under the wheels, the 6x6 or 8x8 or 8x12 that you find by home construction sites. The jeep was heavy enough that I never really trusted jack stands, especially after one started to split. My first ramps were a 6x6 cut with a radial saw.
    Honestly the E32 is a hard vehicle to put on jack stand, too many body folds to find a decent spot. I refuse to use engine of trans pan even with a wood block as it is usually suggested for lifting on many forums.

  11. #36
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    We have the equivalent of HB in Canada called Canadian Tire. Tons of cheap tools, most are made in China and are ok for non-professional use. I use their box and ratchet set, works great. No way I would trust my life with their jack stands or other safety items though. I am aware the Enco jack stands are made in China as well, but they are very robust.

    Can't the jack stands be placed at the usual four spots, two behind the front wheels and two in front of the rear wheels? In case you meant jacking the car, I believe the front cross member and rear diff can be used.

  12. #37
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  13. #38
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    I emptied the 11S reservoir with a turkey baster today and in the plastic container I used the oil was actually a dark green. It looked red in the reservoir, weird.

    Anyway, I then filled the reservoir with one liter of 11S. That's all I could fill (even though I ordered three liters...), then went for a drive. Unfortunately the steering "pop" still occurs at low speed, so I'll have to do more research. Edit: it could be the leaky steering joint that gives the notchy feel.

    Changed the engine air filter and it was nasty. I believe it was the original filter as it was BMW OEM and it said 91 on it...
    Last edited by Cactuar; 07-11-2018 at 08:53 PM.

  14. #39
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    I changed the cabin air filter, wow what a fun job I reinstalled everything under the dash except for the carpet cover and glove box. When I tested the fan I could hear a new noise that wasn't there before. It's as if something is rubbing on the blower, it's hard to explain. I made a video, it's most noticeable at the end.

    I messed around with the sword alignment for a while, could it be that a solder joint got damaged while I handled the sword? I'm not sure what else it could be. Edit: maybe leaves in the blower motor??

    Also in the video, some blend motors can be heard quite loudly. The car has always done this, is it normal to be this loud?

    Last edited by Cactuar; 07-14-2018 at 11:48 PM.

  15. #40
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    Difficult, but I heard the noise at the end of the video.
    In that area there are 3 fan motors.
    1 is inside the IHKA control panel , where the red arrow is the air is sucked http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/ihka...emp_sensor.jpg from the back of the board you have access to it
    1 is inside the cooling funnel for the e-box in my 750, right under glovebox
    On my 750 the fan runs on low speed when the engine is running. If the temperature in the e-box exceeds 44 degree Celsius (111 degree F.), the fan will run on high speed. Cooled air comes from the IHKA thru a plastic funnel behind passenger side glovebox compartment. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/showpart...19&hg=12&fg=35
    both can make noise, but that is usually a chirping sound.
    Then the blower fan motor, maybe because you replaced the filter, the airflow is higher and inside the blower motor housing there are some leaves touchting the 2 rotating fan cages http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/ihka/ihka.html

    The sword is quite solid when assembled.
    Last edited by shogun; 07-15-2018 at 01:30 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  16. #41
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    In my search for the source of the rubbing noise against the blower I disassembled the panels to get access to the blower itself. I made good progress but now I'm stuck; how do you get this white plastic strap off? I released it, but can't find a way to pull it out of the way so I can remove the panel. Any tips please?

    blower_cover_strap.jpg

  17. #42
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    Gale has some info here, but there is a bolt with nut http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_15.htm
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  18. #43
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    Ugh deleted my post by accident, lousy tablet... Anyway thanks for the link, it's what I've been using. There is no nut, just a pin that snaps in a hole. Maybe the strap isn't meant to be removed and the cover is meant to slide under the strap... I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks again!

  19. #44
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    I snapped the small plastic string holding both strap ends. Now that the blower motor and cages are exposed I couldn't hear any rubbing noise, but I do hear the pulsing noise in the cabin.

    Last edited by Cactuar; 07-22-2018 at 10:02 PM.

  20. #45
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    Reinstalled everything under the hood as I couldn't find anything wrong in proximity of the blower. I suspect debris beneath the sword, will have to crawl down there again.

    Top tip: if you find yourself having trouble reinstalling the plastic strap that secures the blower motor cover, you can't do it by pulling both ends of the strap. You need to insert a small screwdriver in two holes (one hole on each end of the strap) and use the screwdriver as a lever to bring both ends closer. Then you can press the securing pin in the larger hole. Took me 20 minutes to figure it out...

  21. #46
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    I bought a set of five used Style 61 wheels over the week-end. Some of them have minor scratches. Is there an official BMW paint color for older silver wheels? I'd like to do a bit touch up on the wheels, ideally with a touch up pen.

  22. #47
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    90' 735iL, 90' 535i, 93'
    Hey Cactuar, congratulations on your purchase! I did the same thing last year and have been refurbishing things here and there.

    My vehicle was in a similar situation as yours and this is what I'd recommend keeping an eye on.

    V Betls (I threw one early on)
    Front Strut Cartridges (can be tricky to find cheap which is why previous owner didn't replace)
    High Pressure P/S hose (the non high pressure hoses can be replaced easily with new hose and clamps)
    CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR! (Mine started to go bad and I'd thought my car was broken forever, but one of the easiest parts to replace that's caused me the most heartache)

    And lastly your A/C compressor is probably toast if it's been used like Croughton's (Florida) or my vehicles previous owner (Las Vegas).

    Good luck! The 735 is a pleasure to work on because of the ample room in the engine bay which can house an engine of double the size.

    P.S. Shogun is a god and any suggestions he has are always worth it.

  23. #48
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    Thanks! I'll keep an eye open for those potential issues!

    I won't be installing the new wheels this summer (no funds for tires! d'oh) but I've done a photoshop preview. By far this is the best looking wheels available for my 735iL, with the criterias I was looking for: multi-spoke, 16", concave (don't like the flat look of the Style 32's), BMW OEM and cheap. So glad I listened to Legoman's advice. I can't wait to get them installed next year.

    So which ones do you prefer?

    old_wheels.jpg

    new_wheels.jpg
    Last edited by Cactuar; 08-23-2018 at 03:28 PM.

  24. #49
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    Wow, I'm really liking the look of the those wheels! What's availability like?
    1983 4-spd Mercedes 240d w/403k - Sold!

    11/87 E32 735iA w/45k - Daily Driver (finally!)

    04/88 E32 735iL - Parts Car

  25. #50
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    I can't comment on brand-new availability, but you would find them on the used market from folks who are selling their 740 and 750 (E38) wheels. For E38 owners upgrading to +2 or +3 rimz these wheels are trash, so you can scoop them for cheap. Perfect wheels for those who prefer a classy look with OEM specs.

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