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Thread: New-to-me 1992 735iL – the fun begins!

  1. #251
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    Not familiar with the e32/m30 fueling system, but that long crank after sitting behavior can indicate a bad check valve.

    You did a fuel pressure leak down test right? IE- prime the pump/run car, turn key off. Come back hours later. Check pressure against spec. There is a certain amount of pressure decay that will be expected over that time. If you see more than that, out with the check valve!

  2. #252
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    Maybe you install a check valve on top of the tank. Once BMW had a retrofit check valve kit 16149068988, NLA, but a aftermarket check valve with the correct pipe dia. for the fuel hose you get online for $10. How to install and test http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showt...highlight=poor

    Refers to the M60 engine but gives you an idea for the M30 as well
    Feature of this version with intake manifold pressure: The connection for the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator is located in the intake manifold after the throttle.
    Test precondition: The correct fuel pressure regulator is fitted.
    - Using the EPC, check whether the fuel pressure regulator suitable for the car is fitted: Connect test adapter, refer to 13 31 029.
    Description of operation: fuel pressure regulator Depending on requirements, the fuel pressure regulator regulates a low or high fuel pressure. This requirement is set with the help of the pressure regulator. Depending on the engine's operating state, less or more fuel is needed:
    - at idle speed, less fuel
    - at full load, considerably more fuel.

    The injection rate is precision-adjusted by means of the injection time; the injection time is controlled by the DME. The partial vacuum in the intake manifold serves as engine load information for pressure regulation. The diaphragm of the pressure regulator is actuated with this partial vacuum. A partial vacuum builds up in the intake manifold during idling operation or in overrun mode. Depending on the partial vacuum value, the fuel pressure decreases starting out from the nominal value. The nominal value is stamped in the fuel pressure regulator housing. At full load, the partial vacuum in the intake manifold is approximately equal to zero. The fuel pressure regulator regulates the fuel pressure to the nominal value stamped in the housing.
    Description of operation: fuel pump The control function of the fuel pressure regulator must be ensured in all operating states. The fuel pump must therefore always be able to generate a higher fuel pressure than the pressure regulated by the pressure regulator.
    Description of operation:fuel return line
    When the engine is at a standstill and the ignition key is in position 0, the fuel return line after the pressure regulator is at zero pressure.
    Description of operation: pressure retaining function. The pressure regulator closes when the engine is at a standstill and the ignition key is in position 0. The fuel pressure in the delivery line is retained over an extended period. A non-return valve closes in the fuel pump. These measures help to retain the fuel pressure in the fuel system. Extended starting times are thus avoided.
    Complaint: drive characteristic faults, lack of power
    - Run engine at idle speed and measure fuel pressure. -
    In order to simulate "full load" state: Disconnect vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator and measure fuel pressure. The measured value must increase by 0.4 to 0.7 bar depending on the engine. Note down measured value.
    - If the measured value does not increase:
    Replace vacuum hose and measure fuel pressure again
    - If the measured value still does not increase:
    Replace pressure regulator
    - Measure fuel pressure again and note down measured value.
    - Compare the measured value with the nominal value stamped in the pressure regulator housing. If the specified measured value is still not achieved, you must carry out the following checks depending on the measured value. If the measured value is less than the nominal value - 0.2 bar:
    - The cross-sections in the fuel feed line are contracted or the fuel filter is clogged,
    or
    - the fuel pump voltage supply is not O.K., e.g. due to high contact resistance (corrosion) in the plug connection between wiring harness and fuel pump If the measured value is greater than the nominal value + 0.2 bar:
    - Switch off engine and then observe measured value.
    - If the measured value drops to the nominal value, the cross-sections in the fuel return line are contracted or clogged.
    - Check the fuel lines for kinks.
    If no kinks are visible: - Replace return lines. If the measured value remains too high, the pressure regulator is most probably faulty. Caution! With less likelihood, the return line may be completely blocked. When the pressure regulator is removed, fuel could escape under pressure!
    - As a precaution, have a cleaning cloth ready and collect and dispose of any escaping fuel. - Replace the return line but not the pressure regulator. Complaint: starting problems - Run engine briefly at idle speed and switch off. - Note measuring value when engine is stationary. - Read off measured value again after approx. 20 to 30 minutes with engine stopped.
    The special tool 13 3 010 (hose clip) is needed for the following check. If the measured value has dropped by more than 0.5 bar:
    - Start engine and wait briefly for a stable pressure increase. - Switch off the engine and immediately pinch off the delivery line just before the pressure gauge with the special tool 13 3 010.
    - Note down measured value.
    - Read off measured value again after approx. 20 to 30 minutes with engine stopped.
    If the measured value has now dropped by less than 0.5 bar, the following faults may be present:
    - Fault in delivery lines
    - Fault in in-tank delivery hose
    - Faulty pressure-holding non-return valve in fuel pump Check components.
    Replace faulty components.
    If the measured value has again dropped by more than 0.5 bar:
    - Replace pressure regulator Note:
    - All the fuel hoses and hose clips which were detached within the framework of the checks must be replaced.
    - Fault messages may be stored in the fault memory of the DME control unit if the vehicle is operated in the intervening period. The fault messages "Incorrect lambda control" or "Lambda control at stop" must be cleared after the check is completed: Interrogate fault memory of DME control unit. Check stored fault messages. Rectify faults. Now clear the fault memory.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  3. #253
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    92 735iL (12/1991)
    I will install a check valve, it should fix my hot starting issues.

    a777fan thanks for the suggestion, I did check for residual fuel pressure but it wasn't a formal testing procedure.
    I ran the car with the FPR vacuum hose disconnected and read 43 PSI.
    The next day (17 hours later) I noted that the pressure had dropped down to 20 PSI.

    I will look for specs for residual pressure in the Bentley, I must have missed it.

    90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel

  4. #254
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    Took a break from mechanical stuff and tried a technique to restore the chrome trim on my car.
    I think it works pretty well, and it's very cheap to do. It just takes time.


    90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel

  5. #255
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    e34 540ia/e32 740il
    Great video on the polishing the trim! I agree the mirror shine looks so much better than black 'shadowline' trim on the E32. I wonder what it would cost to get a clear anodize finish applied to them after polishing?

    Edit: It might be worthwhile to wax those trim pieces afterwards because polished aluminum can oxidize fairly quick.
    Last edited by m60power; 05-23-2020 at 09:32 PM.

  6. #256
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    Thanks! Yes after doing more reading on trim restoration and care I figured that a good hard wax would help protect the trim.

    From what I read on some forums (BMW and Mercedes forums) the cost of anodizing the trim costs as much if not more than new trim from the dealer. Maybe a good solution for the guys who are working on rotisserie or concours restorations, but not financially viable for the average guy. And the E32 isn't worth enough to justify that in my opinion.

    Polishing the trim is a good bang for buck solution to those of us with good drivers and not show cars

    I started working on the window surround. The Hoffmeister kink popped right off but the upper window trim is a bear to remove. My tools weren't adequate so I ordered panel removal tools. When I'm done I'll post pictures.

  7. #257
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    8/88 750iL
    Interesting discussion about the aluminum trim. Once I finish the major engine work on my 750, I'm planning to bring it to a highly recommended detailing shop to have a paint restoration polish. Perhaps I'll ask about what it would cost to re-anodize the aluminum trim.

    Car is definitely not a concours car, but it's a garaged toy that I don't really need...so I don't mind shelling out here and there, even if it doesn't make sense. What can I say, the car brings me pleasure. And so happy to be back in another E32 after having my old 740 for nearly 10 years.
    Last edited by paulmer; 05-26-2020 at 02:51 AM.

  8. #258
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    Same here paulmer, the car is a toy but my ability to throw money at it is limited
    Still it is a blessing to have the opportunity to play with a car even if I always wish I could do more. Contentment!

    So this month's hobby money went to a new Bosch ignition coil and several vacuum related items.
    The coil took ten minutes to change and to my ear the engine sounded smoother but I'm 100% sure it's purely placebo. Performance didn't change.
    Anyway now I don't have to worry about the 28 year old coil melting and burning down my car.

    Next I installed a new intake boot and idle air control valve boot. Pricey items, for what they are.
    One of the old boots had a deformed side, so glad I got this fixed. No change in idle/performance.

    20200529_165318.jpg

    20200529_170901.jpg

    Next I wanted to install the small "J" shape hose from the intake manifold to the charcoal canister valve, and the hose from the idle air control valve to the manifold. So I removed a bunch of intake components.
    While I had everything disassembled I thought I would remove the injectors and do a visual inspection on them, and do a leak test.
    I was intimated at first because I imagined it to be a big job, but in the end the removal is quite simple. Just need to get some paper towels ready.

    My car has the Lucas injectors without the pintle caps. They looked nice and clean, and amazingly the o rings were nice and soft.
    (I realize that I didn't need to cover the opening of the throttle body, but I didn't want to scratch the inner surfaces with a screwdriver or something.)

    20200605_205644.jpg

    I reinstalled the injectors to the fuel rail and did a leak test by running the fuel pump to circulate fuel. I used some birthday cups that I cut shorter. I placed them in an alternating color pattern for a more festive test!

    20200605_210222.jpg

    20200605_210117.jpg

    Unfortunately there were no leaks. I wish I had a leak somewhere, this is turning to be quite uneventful.
    But this is a big boost for confidence! I never thought I could get this far on an engine. Two years ago I couldn't tell the difference between a fuel hose and a vacuum hose

    Running the fuel pump gave me an opportunity to hear the pump without the engine and wow, it is loud. The sound is odd too, it's like bubbly and not constant? Near the fuel rail I could hear what sounded like air passing in the pipes, very weird. I made a video, maybe someone knows if this is normal?
    Btw I'm still on the original Bosch pump.


    90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel

  9. #259
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    And lastly, one funny thing. When I was reinstalling the sixth injector I dropped the clip down under the intake (not fun). I contorted my hand down there near the intake/firewall and could feel something large moving. I thought it was a connector but then I realized it wasn't attached to anything. Pulled it out and...

    20200605_225355.jpg

    20200605_225408.jpg

    It's the original cap for the coolant reservoir!
    And the best part is that I have an invoice from May 12 1998 for one radiator cap bought at the dealer!

    cap.jpg

    Someone worked on the cooling system in 1998 and dropped the cap, never to find it. It's been sitting on the engine all this time, lol.

    90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel

  10. #260
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    8/88 750iL
    Wow that's cool!! What a trip.

    Regarding your fuel pump -- if you have been chasing down an engine issue, and have already done many tune-up items, I would suspect the fuel pump. I've had pumps fail on every 20+ year old BMW I've had.

    Have you checked your fuel pressure at the rail? I know fuel pumps can be loud, it is curious how yours does sound uneven.

  11. #261
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    Excellent job ‘digging in’! These guys really are just a lot of nuts and bolts, and with time and patience, you can figure em out! Good job


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #262
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    Thank you gentlemen.

    I hadn't thought to hook up the fuel gauge, good idea. I hooked it up to the line that feed the fuel rail.



    So, it's the same result as my other fuel pressure test when I had the engine running.
    The pressure is jumping between 42 and 46 PSI (there's no vacuum obviously) but what's interesting is the groaning that is heard every time the needle drops.

    The fuel pump might be on its way out. Or could the fuel rail be clogged, do these things clog?
    Last edited by Cactuar; 06-06-2020 at 03:57 AM.

    90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel

  13. #263
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Never heard of that a fuel rail clogged, my own experience on long time parked cars and old, bad fuel: clogged/seized fuel pumps (plenty), partly blocked fuel filter + reduced flow and pressure, clogged fuel injector pintles and fuel injector filters.
    I would invest in a new fuel pump, one day you will need anyway a new one. I replaced my almost 30 year old Bosch ones 3 years ago and was surprised how much they lost in volume and pressure. After installing the new pumps I had much more pressure and volume, causing some leaks in the fuel lines in engine bay, with the old ones I did not have that.
    On ebay ca there are offers for fuel pumps for the 735 from single pumps to cpl. units, starting with $35 for China made ones up to $550 for a Bosch unit. Search there for Fuel Pump for BMW E32 E34 525i 535i 735i 735iL L7 M5 (Fits: BMW 735iL).
    Get one of the cheaper ones and test it.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  14. #264
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    Thanks Shogun.
    I don't like doing jobs twice, so I will buy a Bosch pump next month. Rockauto has it for 350 CAD$, not a bad price for a genuine OEM part.

    I wonder if the fluctuating pressure is the cause for my hunting idle.
    If the DME thinks that it is injecting X amount of fuel, but in reality only Y amount is injected, it could be stuck in a cycle of compensation.

    90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel

  15. #265
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    we will see after you installed the new pump. In general the old DME can just set the time of injection based on a factory programmed flow rate under certain factory programmed pressure. Fuel injectors are usually offered with the info of static flow. static flow: is the flow through an injector when it is energized open and left on for a given period of time, usually one minute. This flow rate is the maximum output of the injector at a given pressure. It is this flow rate that is commonly used to describe and classify injectors http://performancefuelsystems.com/In...030%20lbs%2Fhr
    The fuel pressure regulator however should regulate the pressure fluctuations, therefore it is important that the fuel pressure regulator is functioning properly and there are no air leaks in the vacuum hoses controlling the FPR http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/hose_map.jpg
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  16. #266
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    Does anyone know what this connector is for on the M30? (green arrows)
    It is located next to the O2 sensor connector and the fuel hoses.
    I had to disconnect it to provide slack in the wiring loom to the injectors, but I'm not sure what it is.

    connector.jpg

    Edit: Answering my own question: it's a three wire connector, one wire for a ring terminal going to the alternator and two wires going to the oil level sender unit.
    Last edited by Cactuar; 06-12-2020 at 11:04 AM.

    90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel

  17. #267
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    Hi,
    If I am not mistaken that wires come from oil level sensor (2 wires) and third one from alternator (per Shigun description). This wire loom should go into kind of a tube directed to the front.
    Mine was not correctly plugged in causing oil level sensor fault.

  18. #268
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    yes, on my 750 the wire loom (2 wires) from engine oil level sensor plus one wire from the alternator = the exciter cable go into a metal pipe on the left side of the engine and the loom comes out near +B pole and there is the plug where that is connected, on my 750 I replaced this plug and the wire colors look like this http://twrite.org/shogunnew/files/ch...ED%20PLUG4.jpg
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  19. #269
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    Not a lot to report on the car lately, except that I finally found a use for the straps in the trunk Exciting...

    20200628_152214.jpg

    90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel

  20. #270
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    Just when I was ready to order a new BOSCH fuel pump from Rockauto, the price jumped from 350$ to 562$ CAD!! That's with shipping and taxes. Just crazy.
    Instead I ordered a known good pump off a 535i from Andy (south42). At the same time I bought from him a good idle control valve and an air flow meter.
    The fuel pump might be old, but at least it will help me with troubleshooting, as will the other parts. Can't wait to see how it affects the fuel pressure and idle.

    90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel

  21. #271
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    Yesterday I received the used parts from the E34 535i. I swapped my idle air control valve and it made no difference to the idle, it's still uneven.
    This confirms the tests I did on my original valve, it is in good working condition.
    This week-end I'll install the AFM and the fuel pump to see if it improves the idle.

    I rinsed the car quickly tonight before heading out for coffee and took a few photos.
    The rear muffler is starting to annoy me more and more, it's very loud and drones in the interior. It's on my list of things to fix, when money will permit it.

    rinse1.jpg
    rinse2.jpg
    rinse3.jpg
    Last edited by Cactuar; 07-14-2020 at 10:31 PM.

    90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel

  22. #272
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    09/87 E32 750iL
    Looking good. When did you replace year headlights?

  23. #273
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    I think it was a month after you came to visit me last year.
    Did you install the muffler on your 750 or it's still in your trunk?

    90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel

  24. #274
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    I haven't had time to work much on the E32 lately. But I drove the car at least, sometimes it's good to put the tools down and just drive it.

    Anyway I still tried some things...
    The AFM from the 535i made no difference, so I know my AFM is good.
    Tried installing a fog light switch from a 535i too, because mine works but isn't illuminated (burnt bulb inside the unit).
    It turns out that you can't install a fog light switch from an E34 into an E32, because the upper part of the plastic bezel is taller on the E32. Oh well.

    Then I installed the known good fuel pump from a 535i too, and it's not pumping fuel. I can hear a loud whine but no fuel is moving.
    I checked the polarity and it's good, so the pump got damaged during shipping. I know the seller is trustworthy so it's just bad luck from shipping.
    20200721_191813.jpg
    20200721_192302.jpg

    Discussed fuel pumps with Erich in PM, I was considering going with a cheap pump but knowing that they're all made in China and I refuse (as much as possible) to buy Chinese goods, I bit the bullet and bought a Bosch fuel pump. Got a good deal on it, and I know it'll perform flawlessly.
    Can't wait to install it when it gets here!

    By the way, how safe is it to use the drain plug on the fuel tank? I suspect it has never been used.
    Would a shot of penetrating oil be good enough to take it off? I'd like to clean the inside of my fuel tank, got a bunch of sediments in it.

    90,700 miles 1992 BMW 735iL Azure Blue Metallic with Silver Grey leather interior ‣My car ‣My YouTube channel

  25. #275
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    The foglight switch bulb you can replace, not the easiest, but possible, use a T1 1/4 bulb and solder it in, T1 1/4 bulb is ca 4x12mm, 14V, 80mA = approx 1,2W
    here shown on the German E34 forum https://forum.e34.de/thread.php?threadid=252588 Text in German, translated with google
    Nebelscheinwerfer- und Abblendlichtschalter E32
    er nicht ein wenig handwerklich begabt ist, lässt davon besser die Finger. Mal eben ausklipsen und aufmachen ist hier nicht der Fall. Als Birnen kommen diesmal wieder T1 1/4 zum Einsatz, sie werden nicht orange gefärbt.
    Zerlegen
    Wie bekommt man nun den Schalter auf? Zunächst klipst man vorne rundum die Blende ab. Wie man auf Bild 1 und 2 dann aber sieht - so kommt man nicht weiter! Als nächsten Schritt braucht man eine Zange, die keine sog. Facette hat (d.h., die Schneide ist nicht ein kleines Stück nach innen versetzt). Mit dieser biegt man vorsichtig an einer Seite die Niete auf. Es geht leicht, die Niete ist extrem weich. Wer denkt, dass die Niete dann einfach raus fällt hat sich getäuscht. Jetzt braucht es rohe Gewalt in Form eines Hammers und eines Nagels/Bit/etc. Der sollte in etwa den gleichen Durchmesser wie die Niete haben und recht lang sein. Ansetzen und mit einigen Hammerschlägen die Niete austreiben. Ab einem bestimmten Punkt kann man auch von unten nachhelfen und mit der Zange ziehen. Aber vorsichtig, das ist extrem weich (wie gesagt)! Im Idealfall verwendet man eine neue Niete, aber man bekommt sowas eigentlich so gut wie gar nicht passend. Wenn man vorsichtig arbeitet, kann man die aber auch wieder eintreiben und umbiegen. Raus geht da nichts mehr, die sitzt stramm. Danach kann man das graue Innenleben aus dem schwarzen Gehäuse ausklipsen, alles herausziehen und mit dem Löten anfangen. Der offene Schalter ist in Bild 3 und 4 dargestellt, die gebrauchte Niete in Bild 5.

    Zusammenbau
    Zusammenbau in umgekehrter Reihenfolge, wobei man die Niete eben wieder eintreiben muss. Ungut ist hier, dass der bewegliche Teil des Schalters eine starke Feder hat, die verhindert, dass die beiden Löcher fluchten.
    Also muss man versuchen den beweglichen Teil von vorne in Stellung zu drücken und gleichzeitig die Niete eintreiben. Hilfreich ist hier ein Dorn o.Ä. mit dem man erst von der Unterseite beide Teile zusammenbringt und dann von oben die Niete eintreibt.
    Der E34-Schalter ist nochmal anders aufgebaut, dort kommt man direkt von vorne an die Birne - wenn auch sehr bescheiden.


    Fog light and low beam switch E32
    skill is needed. Just unclipping and opening is not the case here. This time T1 1/4 are used, they are not colored orange.
    Disassemble
    How do you get the switch open? First you clip off the bezel around the front. But as you can see in pictures 1 and 2 - you won't get any further! The next step is a pair of pliers that do not have a so-called facet (i.e. the cutting edge is not slightly offset inside). With this you carefully bend the rivet on one side. It's easy, the rivet is extremely soft. Anyone who thinks that the rivet simply falls out has been wrong. Now you need brute force in the form of a hammer and a nail / bit / etc. It should have approximately the same diameter as the rivet and be quite long. Position and drive out the rivets with a few hammer blows. At a certain point you can also help from below and pull with the pliers. But be careful, this is extremely soft (as I said)! Ideally, you use a new rivet, but you actually hardly get something like that. If you work carefully, you can also drive them back in and bend them over. Nothing comes out anymore, it sits tight. Then you can unclip the gray interior from the black housing, pull everything out and start soldering. The open switch is shown in Figures 3 and 4, the used rivet in Figure 5.
    assembly
    Assemble in reverse order, but you have to drive in the rivet again. The bad thing here is that the moving part of the switch has a strong spring that prevents the two holes from being aligned.So you have to try to push the moving part into position from the front and at the same time drive in the rivet. A mandrel or similar tool is helpful here. with which you first bring both parts together from the bottom and then drive in the rivet from above.
    The E34 switch is constructed differently, there you can get to the bulb directly from the front - albeit very modestly.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

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  5. Father's day present: Mod for a 1992 735il?
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