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Thread: A little help requested...and a quick update on my work on the 740i

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    A little help requested...and a quick update on my work on the 740i

    So, I spent the morning changing oil, taking out headlamps and fixing wiring in the side marker lights (PO spliced into them to run angel eyes) and r/r my fog lamps (de-converted from xenon back to halogen.) I even changed out my brake lamp bulbs as I was getting an error message. And that is my problem. I am still getting the "check brake lights" message.

    I checked all the bulbs (good). I have the two filament bulbs in the brake lamp sockets. The third brake lamp works. So, what gives? Should I have used some di-electric grease or something in the sockets?

  2. #2
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    Check he didn't fit an LED bulb in the third light socket......
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    Check he didn't fit an LED bulb in the third light socket......
    Actually, he probably did. Would that throw the code then? If so, I will go get a replacement bulb. (I have been removing ballasts and angel eyes all morning. I thought I rid the car but for the interior of all the LEDs.)

  4. #4
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    Nope. Regular bulb. I replaced it anyway. Still getting fault. And the bulb socket/holder is super hot. Must have a bad contact somewhere.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    If the socket is super hot, contacts are faulty, which causes resistance which... heats up. Clean up the socket side and the holder side, make sure the tabs are properly oriented to insure good physical contact and try again. It'll probably solve both problems.

  6. #6
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    02 82 320i 91ix95M3 98iL
    Shouldn't the brake lights be single filament?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmlss2006 View Post
    If the socket is super hot, contacts are faulty, which causes resistance which... heats up. Clean up the socket side and the holder side, make sure the tabs are properly oriented to insure good physical contact and try again. It'll probably solve both problems.
    nmiss2006 - You won the internet today. Your feedback was spot on. I pulled all the sockets for the rear cluster as well as the third brake light and as I went through them all, I noticed two had their main (center) contact point askew. So, I took a screwdriver and adjusted them properly, testing them again for full contact after the bulb was seated. Bingo, that was the issue.

    e21mdion - No, the brake lights should be dual so that if the parking lamps fail, they can still run them via the brake lights (I think I have that right.)

    Now, for the winning shot...one of my headlamps just developed an intermittent loss of power. Serves me right for getting all excited about no fault codes!

  8. #8
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    If you have xenon headlights, on the wiring from the ballast to the bulb in my car the insulation started falling off and causing shorts. I wrapped each wire in electrical tape and have had no issues since.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by e21mdion View Post
    Shouldn't the brake lights be single filament?
    If the bulbs have a dual filament...we'll have to assume that the OP has a later build e38 (since there's no mention of a model year/build date).

    The LCM III has a "replacement light" feature that will use another bulb (or the filament in that bulb) as needed when a bulb has blown and needs to be replaced.

    See info about the LCM III's features...again, we are assuming that the OPs e38 falls within the build date range of the LCM III:


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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
    If the bulbs have a dual filament...we'll have to assume that the OP has a later build e38 (since there's no mention of a model year/build date).

    The LCM III has a "replacement light" feature that will use another bulb (or the filament in that bulb) as needed when a bulb has blown and needs to be replaced.

    See info about the LCM III's features...again, we are assuming that the OPs e38 falls within the build date range of the LCM III:



    Bingo: my build date 03/00 (2001 model).

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by ConvGeorge View Post
    If you have xenon headlights, on the wiring from the ballast to the bulb in my car the insulation started falling off and causing shorts. I wrapped each wire in electrical tape and have had no issues since.
    Mine does have Xenons. I guess I had better look at that closely. Thank you.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyE38 View Post
    Bingo: my build date 03/00 (2001 model)
    You are my build buddy, I'm also 03/00!
    Careful out there...BMW changed a few things on 03/00, buy the right parts. For example: crankshaft position sensor, but there are others too. Weird to make changes a year before ending production. My exact build date is 3/28/2000 found it on some internal assembly documents under my back seat. I have the newer parts of everything what changed.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    2001 BMW 740i
    George: GREAT NEWS! I'm back at the Timing Chain Guide Repair having recently taken off the "Jesus" bolt. It was all in the tools and the M62 setup. While using the German Auto Solutions tool kit and instructions, I am at the Bank 2 Exhaust Cam Sprocket loosening the torx bolt. The blocks are already in over the square boss on the camshaft for both banks. If I support the camshaft with a 27mm or large adjustable wrench, is it O.K. to have the blocks in already? The darn torx bolt on the exhaust bank 5-8 is really tight. What should I expect from the camshaft when putting a lot of pressure on this torx bolt, even while supporting the camshaft with the wrench? Will it try to move down with the direction of the bolt? (left hand thread/righty loosey).

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