Comprehensive ASC Delete table

[ed323i]

Hi guys,

I've been reading a lot on the ASC Delete options out there, and decided to simplify things by making a chart that lists all options.. See below:
comprehensive_asc_delete_options_table_e36_v3.png

Click the chart thumbnail to see the chart full screen.

This is where I read about the "press 10s ASC button 10 seconds":
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ght=asc+delete
"If you press and hold the ASC button for like 10 seconds it will disable the throttle cutting function but leave the braking of the traction control enabled. It is not permanent though. You might be able to add a long delay momentary switch to automatically do this."

Here you can read a lot about why keeping the rear braking part of ASC working might be helpful in some conditions, as it (very poorly) simulates an LSD (by braking the wheel that's spinning faster than the other wheel):
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ASC-Delete-DIY (read stories from user 'ifixit')

I've colored green ASC Delete options 3,4 and 8 as I think those are 'sweet spots':
Option 3 for the completely clean solution, where you can't see any difference from stock, but there is no more ASC butterfly manipulating engine power, and no ignition manipulation (I assume)
Option 4 is like option 3, but you gain a little more HP/torque by taking the ASC throttle body out of the air flow
Option 8 is the complete ASC Delete solution with no more ASC parts under the hood, and a working ABS and no ASC light

Option 5 is also an easy option, as it completely disables ASC, and you just leave the ASC actuator and its cable in the engine bay (tighten cable with zip ties). ABS will still work. Remove ASC light bulb and you're all fine.

Here is some more info on the ASC Delete in general:
E36 ASC Throttle body delete
http://www.eatsleeptinker.com/2014/0...e-body-delete/
http://www.bimmerinfo.com/ASC_Mod.htm
https://web.archive.org/web/20091208...bob/asc+t.html

Details about the 10 Ohm resistor:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...BS-light-fault!

Very short instructions (at least for M52 OBD2 E36's):
Option 3: Remove the ASC throttle body, remove two screws from butterfly plate and take out butterfly plate, reinstall, reconnect all, done.
Option 4: Buy parts 13541703588 and 13541740159 (realoem), remove ASC intake boot, move ASC throttle body (leave all wires/cables connected) below fusebox and tighten, and install new parts, done.
Option 5: Buy parts 13541703588 and 13541740159 (realoem), remove ASC intake boot, remove ASC throttle body, leave ASC actuator in place and connected, tighten cable, and install new parts, done.
Option 8: Buy parts 13541703588 and 13541740159 (realoem) and 10 Ohm resistor of 1-15W (the higher the better), remove ASC throttle body, remove ASC actuator+cable, install new parts, install resistor between ASC actuator cable connector pins, remove instrument cluster (first remove steering wheel if so needed) and remove ASC light bulb, done.

With options 3 and 4, it's best to press the ASC buttons 10+ seconds to disable the ASC's engine manipulation, otherwise ASC still thinks it's controlling the butterfly plate and will still control ignition, maybe causing lean conditions while drifting. This can be automated with some simple electronics (or for example an Arduino), connected to the ASC switch (wires).

Hope this helps!

Let me know if the chart needs some fixing.. I'll update it ASAP and upload it again..

P.S. I started this investigation when I noticed my intake rubber boot was slightly cracked here and there, so I thought to upgrade to an ASC-delete at the same time (90 degrees intake boot is even cheaper than the ASC intake boot).. In the end I decided to keep the ASC working fully, because my wife also drives the car (often with my 4yr old daughter in the back), and I don't want her to spin out of a roundabout when it's raining (especially because it has some very noticeable added torque in the low revs due to the chip tune) because I wanted to delete (parts of) the ASC so I could play around a bit more with the car and wanted to add a little HP.. So, the ASC-delete will have to wait until later, when she has a car of her own.

Update: Seems the 10s ASC button option is more a myth than reality.. Can someone confirm this; that holding the ASC button 10 seconds disables ASC interfering with engine power, but keeps (or not, if it's a myth) the rear brakes-part of the ASC functioning, simulating a poor-man's LSD?

I also wonder if it's in any way a problem that the ASC computer "thinks" it's manipulating the throttle body butterfly, when it isn't in reality (options 1&2).. I think the DME remains in control and even though the ASC is doing "something", the DME just doesn't see any decrease in air flow from the MAF, and will just keep on pumping the injectors and sparking the ignition coils? I can't imagine the ASC computer "saying" to the DME: "Hey, I'm now lowering air intake, so just ignore the MAF readings and just reduce the injector pulse times because I say so".. So, whether or not the 10s ASC button works or not doesn't really matter that much, I think, except it messing a bit with the ignition timing, reducing power a bit, but not enough to prevent power slides.

[bluptgm3]

In the end I decided to keep the ASC working fully, because my wife also drives the car (often with my 4yr old daughter in the back), and I don't want her to spin out of a roundabout when it's raining

Good plan. You won’t need this ‘mod’ until you are making way more power - Cams, MAF, M/S50 manifold, etc..


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[tvcasualty]

Wow thats some work you did there. My ASC delete silicone boot came today. Can't wait to get rid of it. #8 for me. Luckily someone either removed my bulb already or its burned out.

[ed323i]

I tried pressing the ASC button 10 seconds today and the lights stays on then, and pressing the ASC button again won't make the ASC light turn off again.
I'm unable to test if the ASC still uses the rear brakes, simulating a poor-man's LSD, as it's perfect weather here, no rain until September.

Does anybody know what exactly happens when you press the ASC button for ten seconds, on a non-M E36?

[jmo69]

I'd have go look but I've got 5 or 8. I've heard the 10 second story about the dsc system on the e46 too but I've never tried it.

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[ed323i]

I found an interesting thread on the subject:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-for-all/page3

And BavAuto says that pressing the ASC button for 10 seconds disable throttle manipulation but enables rear brake manipulation:
http://www.bavauto.com/newsletter/20...newsletter.pdf
(start at first page, right column, and continue to 2nd page left column)

Several people in the thread linked above however state that pressing the ASC button once disables it only partially (keeps the brakes-part aka poor-man's LSD of it intact) and the 10s press will completely disable ASC.
And others say they notice no difference whatsoever on the track, while driving after pressing the ASC button once versus pressing it for 10 seconds.

To be really 100% sure, we would need a 'laboratory' setup.. With the rear wheels in the air, the car securely fastened, and then while accelerating, applying resistance to one wheel and then figuring out what happens to the other rear wheel. In the three modes:
* ASC fully on (when you start the car and never press the ASC button)
* ASC button pressed once (turning ASC light on)
* ASC button pressed for 10 seconds (turning ASC light on)

If pressing the ASC button once disables ASC completely, then you'd see no manipulation of the rear wheel brakes.
If pressing the ASC button for 10 seconds disables the throttle/ignition part of the ASC but keeps the poor-man's LSD intact, then you'd see the ASC system applying the rear wheel brakes to synchronize the rear wheel speeds.