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Thread: P1780 limp mode e36

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    portland,OR,USA
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    1993 bmw 325is

    P1780 limp mode e36

    Hi, i have a 1998 BMW 328ic, with a 4L30E automatic transmission, that keeps going into limp mode. Basically after 2-7 miles of driving the car will go into limp mode indicated by a warning light with a gear depicted on it. Iv read the codes and the only code that comes up is a P1780 code. Here is what iv tried so far, new gaskets and transmission oil change ( done by a shop), new TCM and ECU (also from a 98 328ic with similar mileage), new battery, checked alternator (figuring it could be bad causing electrical mischief), replaced the neutral safety switch (located under the gear lever) Do you guys have any ideas ? please let me know.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Houston, TX
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    36 Cylinders
    1. Read codes with a BMW oriented scanner on the transmission module, not the engine module. Emissions regulation codes are kind of useless here.
    2. Stop throwing parts at it. (Unless it's fun?)
    3. The transmission itself probably has an issue. Scan the codes for that.
    Last edited by 328 Power 04; 06-14-2018 at 05:03 PM.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  3. #3
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    +1. Yep; sorry, but you've skipped step number 1. You need to communicate with the EGS (transmission) and DME (engine) computers, as well as the ABS, via the 20 pin diagnostic port underhood, and a BMW specific, quality diagnostic tool.

    Never throw parts until you know what parts to throw. Replacing the DME and EGS only complicates the problem and wastes money.

    Has anyone explained that even a bad MAF or a major intake leak might be causing your issue?

    Diagnose first. There are certain to be good BMW specialist independent shops in Portland.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  4. #4
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    2018 BMW M240i
    OP, try www.bimrs.org to find a shop. Also, check the website of the local chapter of the BMWCCA for recommendations.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    +1. Yep; sorry, but you've skipped step number 1. You need to communicate with the EGS (transmission) and DME (engine) computers, as well as the ABS, via the 20 pin diagnostic port underhood, and a BMW specific, quality diagnostic tool.

    Never throw parts until you know what parts to throw. Replacing the DME and EGS only complicates the problem and wastes money.

    Has anyone explained that even a bad MAF or a major intake leak might be causing your issue?

    Diagnose first. There are certain to be good BMW specialist independent shops in Portland.
    Thats what i did 1st i took it to a local BMW specialty shop and they scanned the DME and other computers here are the codes they found.
    1. VANOS :mechanical jamming
    2.crankshaft sensor
    3.camshaft pos. Sensor
    4. CAT. -CONV. Overall efficency rating, cylinfer 4-6.
    So, i had a new vanos solinoid put, new cam and crank sensors, engine timing, done and still nothing, also i havent looked into the maf sensor & intake leak possibility, but i will, if anything else comes to mind plz let me know.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    1. Read codes with a BMW oriented scanner on the transmission module, not the engine module. Emissions regulation codes are kind of useless here.
    2. Stop throwing parts at it. (Unless it's fun?)
    3. The transmission itself probably has an issue. Scan the codes for that.
    Had the car scanned with BMW specific tool, only codes that came up are.

    1. VANOS :mechanical jamming
    2.crankshaft sensor
    3.camshaft pos. Sensor
    4. CAT. -CONV. Overall efficency rating, cylinfer 4-6.
    So, i had a new vanos solinoid put, amd set up correctly and still nothing, and new cam and crank sensors, engine timing, done and still nothing.

    Also shop claims transmission is not at fault.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    +1. Yep; sorry, but you've skipped step number 1. You need to communicate with the EGS (transmission) and DME (engine) computers, as well as the ABS, via the 20 pin diagnostic port underhood, and a BMW specific, quality diagnostic tool.

    Never throw parts until you know what parts to throw. Replacing the DME and EGS only complicates the problem and wastes money.

    Has anyone explained that even a bad MAF or a major intake leak might be causing your issue?

    Diagnose first. There are certain to be good BMW specialist independent shops in Portland.
    This is what my local shop said.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    Aberdeen, NC (yes, again)
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    E39M5, E500 4WD
    Although I can't see what diag device read the code, or what code was actually given, I'd mention that "VANOS mechanically jamming" doesn't necessarily indicate a bad solenoid, it indicates a faulty vanos unit.

    What codes are present AFTER the repair, clearing the codes and driving it again? Was the shop you went to a BMW specialist? I'm a little suspicious anyway, because you posted your initial post on Thursday afternoon, and then you'd have taken the car in, what, Friday morning, for diagnosis? And then the shop diagnosed it, got your approval for re-timing, got all the parts ordered in, installed, and you on your way by closing time?

    What did the shop say, when their diagnosis and repair didn't actually fix the problem? I also can't figure out why they'd retime the engine, when there were no timing codes, and they hadn't actually done anything to change the timing?

    Given that code, I'd have unplugged the solenoid to see if the rough idle changed, and watched the requested vanos status vs. actual status, and almost certainly would have told you you needed to rebuild the vanos, which would have THEN required re-timing the engine.

    https://drvanos.com/index.php/single-vanos

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    portland,OR,USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    Although I can't see what diag device read the code, or what code was actually given, I'd mention that "VANOS mechanically jamming" doesn't necessarily indicate a bad solenoid, it indicates a faulty vanos unit.

    What codes are present AFTER the repair, clearing the codes and driving it again? Was the shop you went to a BMW specialist? I'm a little suspicious anyway, because you posted your initial post on Thursday afternoon, and then you'd have taken the car in, what, Friday morning, for diagnosis? And then the shop diagnosed it, got your approval for re-timing, got all the parts ordered in, installed, and you on your way by closing time?

    What did the shop say, when their diagnosis and repair didn't actually fix the problem? I also can't figure out why they'd retime the engine, when there were no timing codes, and they hadn't actually done anything to change the timing?

    Given that code, I'd have unplugged the solenoid to see if the rough idle changed, and watched the requested vanos status vs. actual status, and almost certainly would have told you you needed to rebuild the vanos, which would have THEN required re-timing the engine.

    https://drvanos.com/index.php/single-vanos
    I should explain i bought this car last summer in August and iv been working on it for over a year, in between school and work. The first thing i did was take it to munich motorworks they are a local bmw specialists that came highly reccomoneded and they read my codes (the ones i listed)and gave me my diagnosis this at the end of August 2017. Afterwhich i had a shop do the timing, solenoid, crank and cam sensors ect... then deleted all the all the codes (including the ones stored in the memory also using a BMW scanner)but they reappeared again. It was after this that i serviced the transmission and replaced the neutral saftey switch... all this was over the course of a little under a year. I was suspicious of the VANOS unit as well but i havent experianced any of the syptoms , low power under 3k rpms, cold start issues, rough idle ect.. outside of limp mode the car runs fantastic, if im not experiencing any of the other VANOS syptoms do think it could still be the VANOS unit and if so do you reccomend a rebuild or a full on replacment of the unit.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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