Hi all,
I had my car recently not want to start. Through research I came across these forums and have learnt a lot about the EWS2 system and have identified where my problem lies with the vehicle.
Many thanks to @Fx323i for all his input into various posts which is where i gained most my knowledge.
Where I ask for assistance is to help with what my next step should be:
Vehicle 1997 BMW E36 328i with Siemens MS41 Manual
NO Spare keys
DME 1 429 861
Scan codes:
DME code 18 EWS Imobiliser, faulty signal
Other DME Codes
214 - unknown ( research says Speed sensor )
68 - Tank Vent Valve, Electrical fault
EWS code 12 and 14 both Key 2 not recognized
What I would like to know is what is the logical route the EWS process would follow, so:
Does code 18 appear because the key is invalid, therefore the issue being the key ?
OR Does code 12 and 14 appear because there is a signal problem with the DME code 18, therefore it will never recognize the key , IE needing DME to EWS realignment, wiring issue ???
Short story of events that may or may not matter:
Random person jumps on my windscreen and bonnet( slight dent). Windscreen replaced, car driven for a few days.
Next day remove car from garage, switch off come inside. Go back out, car won't start.
Can jump EWS pin 1 and 3 and starter turns.
No fuel pump prime
No jump start
All fuses fine
All grounds fine
EWS chip no 2D47J
Scan done on Delphi unit, DCT codes.
Many Thanks
Last edited by HellkatZA; 06-14-2018 at 03:23 PM.
214 is vehicle speed signal. Check your sensor / wiring in the differential.
For ews, check/replace the transponder antenna by keyhole.
If not, wiring problem, or ews module itself.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
If I am reading correctly, the key itself does not seem to be the problem but either antenna or the DME? Hence the code 18, assuming codes 12 and/or 14 would be the only codes if the key where the problem.For ews, check/replace the transponder antenna by keyhole.
If not, wiring problem, or ews module itself.
I have continuity tested the antenna(plugged and unplugged), any other test I could do before testing another?
Hi HellkatZA,
at first I would say, do you have any other key with a transponder in it? Did you try to read the live data from EWS to see if key no. 2 is the one present in the ignition tumbler? Is there a manual or automatic transmission?
Regarding the fault codes - code 18 appeared I guess when you tried to spin the starter with pins 1 and 3 in the EWS connector shorted.
Code 214 is VSS signal - mostly appears on cars without ASC system and with ECU from car equipped with ASC. Rev limiter then is 5196 rpm when driving
Code 38 - this is interesting, MS41 should not have this DTC in its programme
Anyway, the problem lies in that the key is not recognized, or is recognized and not accepted. If not read at all, at first I would troubleshoot from the very easiest point, which is the fuse box.
As described, it is very likely that you drained your car's battery with key in the ON positin and therefore the random code of the key is invalid now. No EWS-DME sync will help in this situation as it only is possible to do it when the key is recognized AND this only works on EWS3 with random codes. EWS2 has a solid 3-byte ISN and does not need a sync if the units belonged to each other.
What can be done if it is confirmed that the key is not accepted because of the random code:
a) Order a new key at the dealer's if you are sure that the EWS and locks belong to the car from the factory
b) Get a programmer and a little bit of luck as the 2D47J mask of MCU in the EWS is secured and an attempt to read it may result in erasing it, especially with Chinese cloned HW or SW. If you can read the data from 2D47J properly, it is possible to repair the data, write back and get the car starting again.
c) disable the EWS if you have Galletto or K-line USB cable. It only requires a little modification of the 20pin to OBD adapter cable. This is easily only doable on these units (it is possible to flash them, even partial flash works for EWS off):
FLASH ECUs
1 744 711
1 429 373
1 429 472
1 432 401
1 429 895
1 429 861
Not possible to flash easily - 87pc110 OTP
1 744 598
1 427 703
1 427 704
1 744 897
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
Updated info:
Vehicle 1997 BMW E36 328i with Siemens MS41 Manual
NO Spare keys, only 1
68 - Tank Vent Valve, Electrical fault ( Not code 38)
ECU 1 429 861
All fuses in order
Yes we cleared the codes and proceeded to run the test again and got the same codes mentioned.
At this point option B is what I would like to do but want to be 100% certain before acquiring the AK90. But as I have learned from post of yours in previous threads chip 2D47J must be read with the correct algorithm. Will the AK90 work or would something else be better?
Option C is last resort, however have ordered
BMW KKL USB FT232RL - K-line diagnose 1996-2007 - INPA OBD2 NCS Expert FTDI
BMW 20-pin OBD1 Diagnostic adapter with Ignition detection OBD2
in order to later tune DME, which should also allow me to delete EWS.
AK90 is a good way to go, but honestly, the quality of those made in China is not very stable. I am quite often repairing cars after attempts to work with these MCUs using clones. With 0D46J the clones are quite safe, but 2D47J is a bit of PITA :-). Anyway, even if you mess up, if you have INPA and NCS Expert working, it is possible to recover to working (this does not mean original!!!) condition (with MS41 ECU and EWS2 system) when you have AK90 and new ID44 (for BMW) transponders.
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
Thank you so much for this info and clearing up that the key is my problem.
I understand by what you mean not original, as the option of a key from dealer is no longer available due to the changes.
Could you recommend something more suitable to my chip other than the AK90?
And any hints or tips for 2D47J chip? Dont mind digging through some research if you have a link, love to learn
Thanks you once again!
I wouldn't jump so fast on only the key being the problem.
It can be somewhere from the key, key reader, and ews module itself. I have seen a few fail now, due to heat especially.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
Will try a friends key reader tomorrow and check relevant cables before going forward with a purchase.
I see you also have a 328Is which you are learning to self tune. How is that going and what mods have you done?
Yes, do not jump to a quick conclusion. First you need to see the live data in EWS and see if the key is being read and what is the problem with it. Then we can get to a real conclusion. What I posted was just the likely case. Read my previous post carefully - you need to see if the key's transponder is recognized and what the EWS unit actually sees.
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
How would one read the live data of the EWS? IE can the same tool be used as my original scan? (My cables only arrive in 2-4 weeks then I can dig deeper myself)Yes, do not jump to a quick conclusion. First you need to see the live data in EWS and see if the key is being read and what is the problem with it. Then we can get to a real conclusion. What I posted was just the likely case. Read my previous post carefully - you need to see if the key's transponder is recognized and what the EWS unit actually sees.
Would we clear codes, switch ignition off, then on again and re-scan?
Apologies for simple question as I must check with the guy who scanned the car what process he followed, and if codes he provided are from first scan or from a scan after clearing codes.
I am not sure about the Delphi capabilities, so I can not answer this question properly. The best HW/SW to use for checking EWS by means of user friendliness is BMW Scanner 1.4. Do not use this tool to recode and adjust anything on the EWS, but for viewing what is going on in the unit this is by far the most user friendly tool with a very simple description of what the values shown mean.
Here is a little example from EWS3.3 showing the data and what you can see in it. INPA can show you the same data but it is not very user friendly for this case. Without further experience it is more difficult to see where the problem is.
zXsGR.jpg
Compare it to what you can see in INPA here
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
Thanks, He is checking if his scan tool can provide this information and will get back to me later.
Things I will test today so long will be:
Antenna Key Ring cable swop out
EWS module that converts signal from antenna ring to signal for EWS? ( can these be swapped out without consequence)
Check wiring from module to EWS
Busy looking at a purchase of the BMW scanner itself, they are available in my country for a good price so I might as well, but will only be able to get this Tuesday next week.
The T/R module can be swapped without issues. Check for its power supply first though (Fuse 45, 7,5A).
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
Updates? About to start this journey myself.....
I have borrowed friends ECU and EWS and key for now.
Ordering BMW Scanner 1.14 and AK90 Key coder and some cables for tuning.
Then I will be able to sort out whatever is required.
Did it work?
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