540 rear main and brake servo(booster) question

[Billyj]

Hey everyone in the middle of some work on my 540 and have a question for our best and brightenough

- I was planning on doing the rear main while my clutch is out and found my crank end to be relatively grooved. I haven't done a finger nail test but I believe the PO did the rear main while swapping from the donor car. It started leaking hence the teardown.

I was told I could sleeve it if necessary and am wondering if others have gone that route?

I'm also looking for a replacement brake servo and am hesitant to go used... PN 34331161485

Obviously I could go new old stock for 600+
But I'm wondering if anyone had found a source for the TRW that appears to be NLA ?


And for anyone interested, work currently taking place
- rear main seal and gasket
- rear horseshoe gasket which I believe is cooling system related
- rear Coolant crossover
- valley pan (I went with ECS assembly, so will be doing all the included gaskets and ancillaries)
- LM 10w-60 synthetic
- LM Ceratec
- Maybe recharge my AC!
- Maybe paint my red46 skid plate
- Lower oilpan gasket and hopefully weld or drill nut
- paint lower oil pan

- spal 14in
- mishimoto fan controller
- aluminum shroud ( just need to get the sheet metal and TIG gas) was thinking 16gauge is that overkill?
- some of the rear cooling hoses (but I might just bypass the heater core)

- UUC 240mm middle weight flywheel
- luk m5 clutch and pressure plate (not planning on doing the slave)
- pilot bearing, throwout/release bearing, pivot, spring clip, fork
- what fluid would you all recommend?
- transmission painted
FB_IMG_1528955566451.jpg

- welded differential (I believe it's an auto diff but I forgot to check the tag before I dropped it off)
- paint differential case
- diff seals, which would you recommend?
- axle bolts ( 3-4 broke on me)
- magnetic plug
- LM MoS2 paste
- LM 75w-90 synthetic

- warranty replaced b8 shocks, eom top mounts, body gasket, rear dog bones

- steering rubber joint
- check column nut for tightness (is this in the footwell?)
- warranty replaced Uro outers which had torn boots after 3 months or less
- maybe do my CSB while it's out

- new windshield ( has anyone gone aftermarket? Is it thinner or anything?)


I'm probably forgetting stuff...

Cheers everyone, happy motoring!

[moroza]

- I was planning on doing the rear main while my clutch is out and found my crank end to be relatively grooved. I haven't done a finger nail test but I believe the PO did the rear main while swapping from the donor car. It started leaking hence the teardown.

I was told I could sleeve it if necessary and am wondering if others have gone that route?

Can the RMS be installed ~2mm deeper in its housing?

I'm also looking for a replacement brake servo and am hesitant to go used... PN 34331161485

These don't seem to fail often and if I had to replace one, wouldn't shy away from used. FWIW there's ~270k on an M60 one I just sold, ~273k on an M50 one I have, and both appear original and work great.

- rear horseshoe gasket which I believe is cooling system related

There are three fluid seals back there, one for coolant and two for oil. Respectively, parts 6, and 10 & 11 in this diagram.

- LM 10w-60 synthetic

That's rather heavy oil for an M60 that calls for, at most, 20W50 conventional, and down to 0W40 synthetic. Just because it's what an S62 or S54 wants does not mean it's better for your engine.

- paint lower oil pan
...
- paint differential case
...
- transmission painted

Painting parts reduces their ability to dissipate heat. Iron parts are typically painted in spite of that, for corrosion protection, but alu doesn't really have that problem, so it's slightly detrimental and unnecessary.

- welded differential (I believe it's an auto diff but I forgot to check the tag before I dropped it off)

Sooner or later, there's an "I told you so" coming...

- diff seals, which would you recommend?

540i diff? Unless they're leaking, I'd leave them alone. The sides fail infrequently, and are not too bad to change later. The pinion is a hassle to change, but seems to fail even less often. If you do change them, I'd suck it up for a genuine BMW input seal (~$35) because the only aftermarket is Chinese SKF and this job should be done Once. A bit more flexibility on output seals because more aftermarket and easier to change. Reinz would be my go-to.

- check column nut for tightness (is this in the footwell?)

Yes.

[Billyj]

Moroza as always your Input is invaluable

I'll try installing the rear main deeper.

I didn't think about the heat dissipation and paint.... But I know better so I should have
Interesting fact colored paints increase thermal IR radiation

As far as oil and diff go, I'm going to be participating in drift events so I'm considering acceptable...
If the oil and axles are an issue I'll change something

The axle seals are leaking that's why I asked and oriellys had the wrong ones