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Thread: Cranks without starting, no corrosion, no faults, good pump, no blown DME fuses

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    Macomb, MI
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    2000 BMW 740i

    Cranks without starting, no corrosion, no faults, good pump, no blown DME fuses

    Hello everyone,

    Project BMW I picked up a few years ago to learn the brand. 2000 740i in Titansilber with 87k miles on the odo that was bought from an estate from an older lady one owner car. BMW service until I picked it up off of a guy that realized he had bit off more than he could chew. Ran and drove but had a nice fat oil leak that was driving him nuts and was done with the car. $1,800 later and it is ready for me to find out what all the fuss is about keeping these cars road worthy and reliable.

    I am very familiar with automobiles and solved an ASD shutdown problem in our 08' ACR Viper with only 3k miles on the odo that the largest dodge dealership in the nation had thrown up its hands over. Ended up being a factory defect in the design of the secondary 02 sensor architecture/design. Nice in person conversation with the engineer that designed the wiring harness and a long removal procedure of the under aero trays to get to the problem, once he admitted that it exactly was the problem.

    Everything has progressed smoothly so far, with tracking down the oil leak that turned into multiples so I took off the valve covers and timing chain covers and lower pan and sealed everything up right with a new timing chain tensioner to solve the startup clatter. Proper oil and filter and the M62-TU was purring nicely with gobs of power.

    The of course the battery started showing up depleted after a few days of driving and put it on a CTEK long term while other things were worked on and life went ahead in other areas.

    During this time the car had to be moved around and run to warm up once a month so that I felt like I was doing it justice and not getting into the oil milkshake phenomenon I'd read about with these power plants. Started perfectly each time, but had to take out the radio and nav fuses to keep the CTEK from running itself to death over the months it sat in storage, most of the time inside.

    Then one day a friend asked if this 'Transporter' BMW could actually do a burnout like in the movie and I said I had never tried, but it pulled hard on the street so I did not see why not. Turned off the stability control and flashed the torque converter and nothing, just lunged forward like a normal street launch. Tried a brake stand and then let off and nothing, not even a real brake stand.

    Then I remembered about the model having this dynamic fuel injector shut down process where the injectors are shut down for certain throttle positions, vehicle speeds, etc. where it is deemed necessary to protect the drivetrain.

    Less than a week later when moving it around for the second or third time after the failed burnout attempt, the engine cranked but did not start using the courtesy feature where you turn the key to start and release it. Let it crank for 10 seconds and stopped it. Fuel light was on so I added another few gallons and tried again. Same result, no start.

    Checked fuses and relays but all were intact, though there was no signal from the DME to the fuel pump relay when the key was turned to start to crank the engine.

    Hot wired the fuel pump with a small 12 volt battery and it ran, though the car still would not start.

    Fuel pressure at the rail was 49 psi but fell off to zero within ten seconds of turning off pump.

    Put a half second or so burst of starting fluid downstream of the mass air sensor and the car started for a few seconds and then stopped, the tachometer read typical readings for that short run as to be expected, leading me to believe that the car was suffering from electrical faults not associated with the ignitions system.

    Not sure when it first occurred, but then happened to notice that the fuel level when the key was placed in run now registered 1/2 tank when the fuel pump was plugged into the harness.

    This is when it was suggested on another forum that the ignition switch might just be the culprit. It was not, the unit had already been replaced with a OEM BMW unit as the twin red painted set screws were exposed when examined. Now there is a third OEM unit in its place as it was already ordered.

    Many have suggested a bad crank position sensor, though from what I gather the DME will not command the ignitions system to fire the car if the CPS is not within specifications.

    At this point I investigated the possibility of corrosion from water invasion at the window seal near the DME. Repaired small tear in seal and removed passenger seat to reveal a completely dry and pristine fuse block and wiring harness. A time capsule almost.

    The next step was examination and replacement of the five 30 amp DME fuses in the 'cage' within the engine bay electronics box. That area too was pristine and dry. All five fuses tested good but were replaced anyway.

    DME was removed and examined for heated thermostat wire coolant intrusion and was also pristine and spotless as if taken off the shelf yesterday and installed. All pins and connections straight and true, with no loose connectors or wiring.

    Conclusion : No signal to engage the fuel pump is being received at fuel pump relay and it is suspected that there is no power to the fuel injectors either for when the pump is hot wired to run with confirmed static pressure while cranking, no odor of unburned fuel is detected at either tailpipe.

    Note: Drivers seat was removed for examination of the wiring harness that can be damaged by water intrusion into area underneath the carpet.

    Carpet was pulled back without removing center console but the areas seen were clean and dry with no wiring degradation or pinched insulation.

    Though interestingly a loose rubber electrical cap/boot (black in color) was found in that area under the carpet on the floor pan proper. This cap or boot has the same material and physical dimensions as the two green caps or boots seen over wiring terminus junctions near the DME proper, in a path above and to the right of the DME along the firewall.

    Is this loose cap under the driver seat carpet something that was lost during manufacture and never installed or does it indicate a section of wiring is unprotected somewhere near the drivers position either under the seat or under the dashboard?

    Second Note : An external weather proof shut off switch was installed for the Auxiliary cooling fan to solve a current draw problem and to safe the car from a fire from fan failure in the future, based on readings and warnings about the issue with these then new, computerized fans.

    I apologize for the long post, but the sticky said that more information is better than not enough and as a woman I tend to talk too much. Lol! Thanks in advance for any advice or insight anyone might have into these issues.

    If you want me to test a theory, let me know and I will do as instructed and provide pictures as required.

    Ms. Debbie

  2. #2
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    Wow. Your (FIRST !) post is exceptionally thorough, and not only tells us much about the car, but also that you are extremely capable.

    One thing really set off my warning bells: You used starting fluid, to try to light it off, when you had no fuel delivery. I very strongly recommend against using starting fluid, ever. It is SO volatile that it will compression-ignite, which not only ruins the diagnostic reasons for using it, but its volatility can also cause exploded intake manifolds, etc. I suggest using throttle=body cleaner or MAF cleaner instead. If the car will start and run on one of these, then you can be sure fuel delivery is truly the problem.

    The second item which is highly important is that I see no data from a BMW diagnostic computer. You need to see what codes there are, and even have a look at live data, when trying to start the car. This will often allow you to see some data point that's missing.

    While a quick push of the DSC button will theoretically disable traction control, if you truly want to shut off the system, you need to hold the button down for 5 seconds.

    I'm late for work, so have to run, but I'll have a longer look at your information later. You might also wish to copy and paste your post onto the E 38 7 series forum here -- that model-specific forum, above all others, has quite exceptional regular contributors.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, at an independent, formerly @ dealer
    BMWCCA 274412 SCCA 334928

  3. #3
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    e36, e46 ZHP, MkiV Tdi
    all i can add is to emphasize chris' points - awesome first post! including the use of spaces. for once, we don't have to read a wall of text littered with poor spelling and other errors.

    the e38 forum here is outstanding - and those folks know these cars at an amazing level. definitely check there. hopefully mayorchuck will hop in here with an opinion.

    also, totally agree - i'd definitely look into getting some type of bmw scan tool (if you don't have something already). there are also wiring diagrams and such that will prove useful.
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    11/98 E39 535i V8 M62TU
    Great first post with a lot of description! Just as the guys above mentioned, scan it for codes. If the fuel pump does not prime after key in ON position, it is very likely the EWS-DME synchronization needs to be done. Code for it is #39 EWS 3.3 Anti Tampering Protection. By the description this seems to be very likely.

    Checking under the carpet would if I remember well only be worth if the car would not crank. Checking fuses in the Motorsicherungen box next to DME would have been needed if the car had crank-no-start problem and the temperature gauge would go all the way to the max with key in the ON position.
    Martin Voigts
    BMW cars indy and locksmith
    E39 535i V8, Oxfordgreen, in process...

  5. #5
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    Martin, it's so good to see you again, on the forum. We've missed you!

    Ms. Debbie, welcome to the forum. You'll receive good answers here. Martin, our friend from Prague, knows the EWS (anti-theft) systems better than anyone. Personally, I thought the EWS only shut off spark and pulse on an E38....not fuel delivery. That said, there will absolutely be codes in the EWS and DME for this.

    As shadowpuck and I have stated, the E38 forum here is excellent....and we're no slouches here, either.

    Here is access to the actual BMW factory wiring diagrams....(Mayorchuck from the E38 forum originally gave us this link, by the way):
    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

    Oh, don't bother with "brake stands"....that just pisses off the computers (you'll find codes). The car should EASILY do a burnout (it's one wheel drive), if you turn the traction control off FULLY.

    Thanks for your punctuation, spacing, clarity, and exceptional detail !

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, at an independent, formerly @ dealer
    BMWCCA 274412 SCCA 334928

  6. #6
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    1996 740iL 2001 740i
    Hello Debbie. Guess who! =)

    Sounds like you covered most everything. I am curious about you pulling the drivers seat. The main fuse block, splices and ground points are under the passenger seat. One of those fuses, F109, powers those 5 DME fuses in the carrier. One of those fuses power the injectors. (Fuse 2) But again, that should not prevent the DME from sending for fuel to the relay. Fuse 17 and 57 control the relay.

    If the DME is not calling for fuel, it's usually the crank sensor or a sync issue. What I don't know is if you would have spark that would fire an accelerant if there was no sync. Martin would know this better than I. Those DME fuses will pop outside of the known MAP sensor issue, often due to chaffed wires in the wire box.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Did it to you this time Chris. Started to reply and was pulled away by our Queen Zoe (doxie). Priorities you know....
    2007 ES350
    2002 Dodge Dakota

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    Macomb, MI
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    2000 BMW 740i

    Thanks for the warm welcome!

    Gentlemen,

    Thank you so much for the warm welcome!

    The starting fluid is basically ether, so it was nerve wracking to use, but again it was a burst not a long spray. What I believe causes intakes to blow up/overpressure is a long spray from the air filter side of the intake tract, combined with a heated wire, Mass Air Sensor. Just my two cents, and I understand and appreciate the warnings. I did not douse with cologne, I spritzed perfume and had the car 'walk into it'.

    My findings online from other forum posts is that if there is no sync from the DME to the key where they are mismatched on the rolling code sequence, that the cluster will not show things like external temp and other data. Those all function, though when the fuel level was low when moving it around all those months, it would give a range warning of say 30 miles left before empty. Now with it reading a false 1/2 tank of fuel, no range estimation is given. Is the range estimation always present or only when approaching empty?

    As far as being under the drivers seat, there was a post of a nasty corrosion event on the main wiring harness that goes under and past the seat to the rear in another post and since I'd already 'practiced' on the passenger side it was easy and gave a bit of a peace of mind until I found that loose rubber electrical junction cap.

    I'm glad everyone enjoys the spacing for digestion of progress and information points, etc. I'd rather write something that gives a place to pause and evaluate without having to search for where you left off. Like a technical manual or service bulletin, instead of the ghastly wall of text we all see much too much.

    I have seen a large number of posts about the Unloader Relays. Interesting stuff. One BMW Tech on a paid service online said to a customer that the crank but no starts can be linked to the relay closest to the engine in line with the DME in my 2000 7. It is positioned upside down so many do not realize it is even there.

    I found another bit of water on top of the e box from the last storm yesterday evening and found another ingress point, this time at the top of the windshield along the seal to the body, a small gap, but definitely a leak point. My guess is that the water is getting in from either there or more likely, from the passenger hood vent to the air filter above the e box.

    Since the unloader relay is upside down and positioned in the area of the water intrusion collecting above it, it could be surmised that at least water vapor reaches the area of the relay and may form a condensate in colder weather conditions and percolate through the relay blades and into the component.

    There must be a reason that the BMW Tech immediately suggested the unloader relay and asked to have his answer accepted so he could be paid. Like knowing a chevy small block is not starting in summer because the starter is heat soaked and needs thermal protection wrapping on the exhaust or starter itself.

    I ordered an OEM relay that matched the one in the location noted and should have it by Saturday via Amazon Prime.

    For those not in the know, an unloader relay (three of them supposedly in my 7) performs its function when the key is turned to the start position, disconnecting high amp draw devices like rear window defrosters, radio amps, etc, so that the car starts easily in cold or low battery charge conditions.

    My opinion is that people that solve no starts with brand new batteries with later failures with the same symptoms are experiencing failed unloader relay/s and masking the power demand issue in the car design with 'fresh troops' so to speak. The unloader relays were put in the electrical system for very good reasons.

    During the last few sessions recharging the car back on the CTEK, I noticed that the charger was much warmer than usual, actually hot while getting the battery back to full charge. (green light at the end of the series of yellows on the CTEK).

    To test the charger I left the trunk open on one of my LS Lexus with the trunk light shining, overnight. The next day I put the same CTEK on the Lexus and it took about six hours to get the green light on that car's battery (both connected to the battery proper, not using the cigarette adapter plug) but the charger did not get above body temp the whole time.

    The next chance I get I will pull the 7's battery and have it load tested. Maybe these bad batteries were just overworked from failed $20 unloader relays. The BMW Tech seems to think so.

    Thanks again everyone and I hope you all have a great weekend. You too Mayor Chuck, you did not go unnoticed, awesome to hear from you here!

    Debbie
    Last edited by PlatinumV8; 06-14-2018 at 11:18 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    Macomb, MI
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    2000 BMW 740i

    BMW Dirt Racer rocks with awesome intel!

    BMWDirtRacer,

    Wow that is good intel! K6326 on terminal block 15. I was going off bad intel from the old posts calling it the K9, but now with your data I know that is for the older models. Now I can start working backwards on the these relays and other wiring with the circuit diagrams too. So happy!

    The weekend is going to be a roasting hot one here, so since my garages are currently filled and no room to move them around and lose all that expensive AC dried air in them, it will be a bit before I get to anything beyond a little poking around in the morning or late evening but at least I can read and get a little education about the way Germans build cars.

    Everything is approached so differently, from domestic or Asian cars, it certainly is interesting! Everyone said a 2000 7 was going to grad school at diagnostics and reliability proofing.

    Note : I had no idea that this car was a peg leg. The Lexus LS of the same year locks up both wheels and leaves smoking strips of rubber for as long as you want. That kind of makes me mad can I swap out a german posi diff easily or is it a nightmare?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Prague, Czech Republic, E
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    11/98 E39 535i V8 M62TU
    Hi Debbie,
    you are a bit mixing up the sync of keys to EWS and EWS to DME. The EWS3.3 has a two-stage verification process. First stage is to check if the key belongs to the EWS. If it does, the relay in the EWS clicks and connects the ignition switch to the starter wire. At the same moment, the EWS starts to send the ISN code for DME, which is the second step of verification. Both of the codes - the one between the key and the EWS, and between the EWS and DME, have a random part where the problem could be.

    As you state, the engine cranks, so you can put the key to EWS verification aside - this one should be fine if there is no modification in the EWS wiring. If the engine cranks and does not start, it easily can be EWS to DME random code out of sync. There are no visible symptoms for this situation other than the engine cranks and does not start, the fuel pump does not prime after key in ignition ON and the fault code stored in the DME. No symptoms on the cluster etc.

    If the problem was in power supply to the DME or the DME itself would be shot, the cluster would show the maximum engine temperature because it is the default value for the cluster. After getting the temperature data from the DME, the cluster shows the temperature of the engine itself. On a working car, you would notice that after putting key to ON position, the needle of the temp gauge jumps a bit up and then settles down again - this is because the cluster first goes to the default value (max engine temp) and then reads the temp data from the DME.

    If the problem was in the crankshaft position sensor, after key ON the fuel pump would prime but would not work at the moment of cranking.

    I would say, scan for codes and maybe save yourself a lot of work. The EWS-DME sync might not be your problem, but according to the description, it is very likely.

    Martin

    Chris, it is also nice to see that you are still on the forum.
    Martin Voigts
    BMW cars indy and locksmith
    E39 535i V8, Oxfordgreen, in process...

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Debbie, I repeat: Martin knows EWS better than anyone. And, sorry, I must mention again that you're trying to use the small-block Chevy diagnostics on a rolling computer. You need to have a good BMW diagnostic computer...., in this case, one that can resync the rolling codes between DME and EWS.

    As for the Diff: yes, you can put an LSD in it. Your car will use a BMW "large" diff, same as my M5, which has a limited slip, of course. You might want to try the M5Board forum, check the E39 M5 section, and look for "Clemster" (Adam Baj), who sells used M5 parts. He is very trustworthy.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, at an independent, formerly @ dealer
    BMWCCA 274412 SCCA 334928

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    2000 BMW 740i
    FX323i,

    Thanks for the intel on the fact that there is a two stage 'handshake' going on with this security system. I'm an accountant but do all the IT oversight for my firm so things like software/hardware interfaces are not out of my realm of understanding.

    My research has said that it that the system tries to match codes for 200 attempts. What happens after that? I'm still trying to wrap my head around how this could have happened. It is another reason why I cannot trust this car beyond tow truck range. The key still operates every other function. The battery was not disconnected and was never discharged even near fully.

    I have a feeling that I am looking at a tow truck ride to the BMW dealership an hour away and a nice fat bill to re-sync the anti-theft system to the DME.

    As far as hardware and software to deal with this issue on my own if I ever did want to trust the car on a road trip, what options do I have? Laptop and cables or am I looking at a BMW specific scan tool like my Range Rover DIY friends were forced to spend ruinous sums.

    I am beginning to regret this project idea and see that it is becoming a time sink with very little reward for the effort. I was naive enough to think that all I had to do was keep a trunk full of plastic radiator parts. I have had the car for over two years and have less than 200 miles on it. It cannot go more than a week without another catastrophic failure or stranding.

    You may and well be right, but it still does not explain why the car cannot hold fuel pressure for even a millisecond after the pump is turned off. Internal check valve in the pump? Regulator inconveniently placed inside the fuel filter housing? Gah!

    The most my LS Lexus cars every have is having to change the fluids and brake pads. I am finding that I was truly spoiled from 1990 to present with those cars. Wait, idle up power steering valve leaks after 200k miles on those, forgot about that admission of their 'shortcomings.'

    Now I know why there were so many movies with 7's in them, it was advertisement to beg owners to come back!

    C6 Vette LS or GT500 Coyote swap into the car might be the long term solution. Gutted, full cage and shaved badges. Think Kent Block's mustang drift car.

    Whew! Now that I have vented about this abomination, time to enjoy my weekend, I hope all of you do the same.

    Ms. Debbie

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    2000 BMW 740i

    Now I know why you keep a 7 on a charger at ALL times in storage.

    Just found out what probably happened. CTEK has a cigarette lighter indicator insert for charging. When the yellow charge recommended light was on I would put the trickle on it when I got around to it as the next stage was the red light which means charging required.

    Only once did I let it get to that point and it was before this crank but no start happened. Well if the security system does not have ten volts available it will not roll the codes forward together and the next time you try to start it will just crank. No spark, no fuel. This is according to a write up by a BMW specialist I found just now.

    My issue is, then how come my car began to start on starter fluid, I heard it and watched the tach climb. Are they wrong and the anti theft just turns off fuel or are they right and my no start has nothing to do with losing key sync with the EWS/DME?

    Ughhhh, time to set up a fuel delivery spray using a laboratory pipette squeeze bottle and a carb jet to get a proper real world test. I am absolutely tired of this anti-theft system keeping me from driving a car worth less than $1,000. EWS, delete needs to happen sooner than later.

  13. #13
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    Hi Debbie,

    As a computer person, this'll be really easy for you. You can download INPA, for free, from various places online. I'll ask Abel (328 Power 04) to have a look at this thread, and direct you. I'm sure Martin can do this too. Or, you can scroll down to the Diagnostic Software forum, and get set up easily there. For your car, you'll want a 20-pin underhood diagnostic port connector. (See ECS tuning)

    You can also go even further, and set up ISTA, or the older DIS (BMW's factory diag programs), if you can set up a Virtual Machine -- probably easy for you -- I'm a computer dummy, so I had someone else set it up for me, before I had these on professional, non-Virtual machines.

    It's very obvious that you are more than up to this task, Debbie. And this is the best damned big car ever made. You've perhaps never had the opportunity to drive it hard, but it'll make that silly Lexus feel like a '63 Cadillac, on a backroad, or even a race track.

    Stay with it, girl. The car will be easy for you, once you become familiar with it. It's twenty year old technology, and the tricks are already well known and accessible. There's really no need to delete the EWS, it's a generally trouble free system. Still, if you want to get rid of it, Abel can do that for you pretty quickly. Hell, he can probably fix your car from Texas, if you'll plug him into it.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, at an independent, formerly @ dealer
    BMWCCA 274412 SCCA 334928

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    Can you purchase this cable here https://www.ebay.com/itm/163022080140
    skip the software on the disk. You need just the cable.
    and have a working windows laptop (any windows will be fine), then message me to do a remote in (with Teamviewer) to install the software and find out what is going on? Honestly would like diag info before jumping to what and who's broken.

    - - - Updated - - -

    !!
    If and only if you have a 20-pin round port under the hood, buy this as well https://www.ebay.com/itm/113015829932
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods. RomRaider self-tune work in progress.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg: Many Mods ~300ft/lbs tq, diesel, daily beater. Love/Hate relationship.
    - S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 240hp/380ft-lbs

  15. #15
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    Abel, her car has the 20 pin near the ABS module and ebox. Just an FYI, the cap must be on the 16 pin OBD II port for the 20 pin diag port to work, and vise versa, on the E38.
    2007 ES350
    2002 Dodge Dakota

  16. #16
    Join Date
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    11/98 E39 535i V8 M62TU
    Hi Debbie,
    you were asking about what happens after the 200 attempts so here is some more description of the system:

    While energizing the internal starter relay, the EWS III (3.3) module calculates a stored code from the “Rolling Code Table” and sends the calculated results to the DME.

    On receipt of the “Rolling Code” from the EWS III (3.3) the DME calculates it’s own stored code and compares its results with the code it received from the EWS III (3.3).

    If the “Codes” match the drive away protection is released and injection and ignition are enabled and the engine starts.

    If the “Codes” do NOT match, the DME “rolls forward” to the next code according to the “Rolling Code Table” and makes the same calculations. The DME continues this “forward roll” up to a maximum of 200 times or until a match is found. Failure to find a match will result in the engine cranking but not starting.

    When the ignition is switched off and no engine RPM is present in both the DME and the EWS III (3.3) control module each module will automatically “roll forward” to the next predetermined code based on the “Rolling Code Table”. This new code is used for the next starting sequence.

    Workshop Hint: If during diagnosis the key is switched on while the DME or EWS modules are “Disconnected”, the alignment procedure will need to be carried out. The “Alignment” procedure may be carried out an umlimited number of times.
    Last edited by Fx323i; 06-18-2018 at 02:07 AM.
    Martin Voigts
    BMW cars indy and locksmith
    E39 535i V8, Oxfordgreen, in process...

  17. #17
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    2000 BMW 740i
    Thanks everyone for the support and the critiques. I was a bit 'emotional' last weekend. I sincerely apologize. My Dad told me I was being a brat and to cut it out.

    Going to tow the 7 into one of the garages and get it in the cool and in a back corner. Then he and I can have a conversation. While he has all four tires off the ground. : )

    FX,

    I have not had the battery connected while the DME or even the seats were disconnected. I was watching StreetSpeed717 on Youtube last night take out his steering wheel airbag without disconnecting the battery either to unplug it or reconnect it. WTF dude!

    He wanted to put in a carbon fiber applique' to his rose gold stock bezel on the wheel in his 2019 Corvette ZR1-ZTK. (Think Viper ACR with the full aero) He did not start the car after installing the stick on trim piece but I would bet he has an airbag light! Ooops!

    Dirtracer.

    I was sitting next to a Coyote 4x4 F150 yesterday evening at a light going to get some errands done after the heat of the day had let up. We were at 101 heat index with florida humidity. 10 at night still light out and this guy was eyeing me and inching at the light. I let him roll a bit at the green and with the AC off and the auto switched to 4 speed mode and traction off along with the Lexus DSC off, walked him all the way from the light to the 50 mph speed limit.

    He then sat on my rear quarter for about five miles trying to figure out what happened. Well, you had no idea that there was a 4 liter forumula one of the late 80's style V8 in there with VVTi and 4 over head cams and 4 valves per cylinder. The exhaust does not have cut outs and the 2000 version of the LS Lexus had not grown fat and bloated yet.

    Did the same thing with a brand new Cadillac CT6 that was giving me the stink eye a few intersections before the ford. The LS may not turn at all, but it sure does have the off the line punch that anything but a pony car or exotic as a hard time pacing with, especially at freeway speeds. Bringing that particular car back from Florida a few years ago, I had plenty of 7s try and lock me out of lanes and I just pushed way past what they felt comfortable doing. What? You cannot keep in it past 100? ; )
    Last edited by PlatinumV8; 06-18-2018 at 09:23 AM.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    boonies, western NC
    Posts
    20,694
    My Cars
    E39M5
    Just so you know, I have never disconnected the battery before unplugging an airbag, nor do any techs I know. If you don't turn the ignition on, you won't set a code.

    And, just so you know, there's not a single day that my car doesn't hit 120.

    There was a Chevy pickup that pulled out in front of me, in a bad place, on my favorite road, when I owned my old E34 (6 cylinder) M5. I was going 80, he was going 30, but I had no choice but to slow to near his speed, because of a blind corner. Then the straight...and he held me...and he held me, and he held me. I was in the left lane, of a two-lane blacktop, and he wasn't going to let me pass. We hit 110 mph, and I had to drop behind for the next blind corner.

    Then I got the E39 M5, V8, well over 400 hp with tune and exhaust, and a lot more torque. And, surprise, surprise, one day, same time, same place, he did it again. This M is quicker....at the same corner, I was going 135....and I didn't brake....poor butthole.

    I see him, now and then....he doesn't do that anymore.

    If someone is going faster than me, and tries to pass, I help them.

    Try that INPA thing....Abel will help, and you'll be on the way. Abel's the best, by the way; he's helped me at the race track, remotely, and at work, many times.

    We'll all be here to help....
    Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 06-18-2018 at 09:00 PM.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, at an independent, formerly @ dealer
    BMWCCA 274412 SCCA 334928

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