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Thread: Jerry's car project

  1. #26
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    I am sure they know their business...
    Quote Originally Posted by georgebest View Post
    This might get deleted by mods, they are understandably cautious about discussing site sponsors...but anybody else thinks FCP lifetime warranty can bust the company?
    It's crying for abuse and I dont think the margins are that high in this business to make it possible.
    With that said, they have always replaced everything for me without any question, though anything that broke was under normal warranty so far.
    I'm really curious how this experience will end for them and wishing all the best of course.
    Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
    155,000 Miles

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by purplecty View Post
    I am sure they know their business...
    I certainly hope so cause bought tons of parts from them

  3. #28
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    Great information to have. Thanks a lot!

  4. #29
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    Ummm...

    Before you continue on you should check the TIS on www.newtis.info. This is the bible on how to do this job. Otherwise, you're gambling. I know a guy who did this job and ended up snapping the cams. I've done this several times and every time I use the TIS and follow every step religiously.

    Flying: Because baseball, basketball, football, golf, soccer, and rugby only take one ball.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by kouks View Post
    Ummm...

    Before you continue on you should check the TIS on www.newtis.info. This is the bible on how to do this job. Otherwise, you're gambling. I know a guy who did this job and ended up snapping the cams. I've done this several times and every time I use the TIS and follow every step religiously.
    Agreed, this is the TIS link: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...mshaft/AcGa0Dm

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    I was in the 2001 740 M (upgrades) yesterday in pouring rain and my wipers decided to take a vacation. Rain X was a lifesaver. 10 minutes later when I reduced speed the wipers came back on. The car was purchased with 175,000 miles and was restored by its past owner. It has another quirk when driving in the dark; the drivers side headlight goes off after about 20 minutes and if I turn the car off and back on the headlight will work again but for only a short while. I was going to change the bulb but I'm not sure that's the problem. Could these be electrical issues? Thanks for the FCP link; I may have to use it ultimately.
    I saw this in your post above. I guess this is a different car. But either way, it sounds like you have water intrusion issues that you need to fix before electrical stuff goes completely bad. For one, you need to check the E-box under the hood and make sure the bottom isn't full of water. That is where some of the electrical for the wipers is and will short when water gets in there.

    Second, the headlight thing sounds a lot like water is getting in from the sunroof and dripping down the passenger side a-pillar and getting on the LCM (light control module). When that happens, weird things happen. If it isn't solved soon, permanent damage may happen to your LCM requiring replacement. Check your glove box, the electricals behind it, and the LCM behind the passenger side kick panel for water. Then it would be smart to pull up the carpet on the passenger side and make sure water isn't pooling under there. There are plenty of posts on here where that has happened and corroded a lot of electrical under there.
    1998 740il | 9/97 build | 228k | schwarz 2 | sandbeige
    mods: m-pars | Bilsteins & B&G springs | suede headliner | Arduino w/ custom I-bus coding | Android HDMI on nav | ValentineOne | StealthOne | llumar ceramic tint | bmw aux w/ 2A usb charging
    retrofits: full nav | MKIV | bluetooth TCU | SES voice recognition | BM53 w/ AUX input | video module w/ AV input | backup cam | I-bus 6 CDC | oem sirius xm | oem xenon | power rear sunshade and side shades | PDC front and rear | rain sensing wipers | BMW DWS tire pressure monitor | interior and exterior lighted door handles | front seat heaters | heated steering wheel | euro rear fog lights | ski pass with non-ski pass arm rest | folding mirrors

  7. #32
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    2001 BMW 740i

    Jesus Bolt Round 1 Re-Visited.

    I know this subject has been recycled often in the past, however I have to ask: The M-62 crankshaft holder; where is there a place on the subframe of an 2001 740i to "prop this tool against the cars sub-frame"? I couldn't see one, unless its covered by something which needs to be removed first. I used breaker bars on the crankshaft hub and the M62 tool and broke a socket wrench and socket adapter, but didn't budge the bolt. Still praying to Jesus for a way to accomplish this. Socket wrench was a Great Neck 3/4 inch. I was beginning to think it was reverse threaded....nope. I've gone over the "tricks" and other posts and wonder if the Pittsburg 27" Socket is the problem. I used an adapter to bring out the break bar from the hood to get a better leverage. I tried without the adapter and nothing. I tried 135 PSI Craftsman compressor attached to Earthquake XT impact tool, after spraying Blaster PB a few times. Another 3/4" socket wrench with a different socket? I would like to try the M62 tool under the subframe of the car if I can locate the spot. I seem to have the right breaker bars.... Please help with any suggestions. subframe.jpgClose up M62 tool.jpgbreak bar setup.jpgbroken socket wrench.jpgattached breakbars.jpg

  8. #33
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    I have a prefacelift car, but the holder tool went under the driver's side frame rail with a block of wood as a spacer.

    I used a Craftsman 3/4 inch breaker bar with a 27mm impact deep socket for the bolt. I bought a 4ft galvanized steel pipe at the hardware store and a thin walled PVC pipe as a spacer between the steel pipe and breaker bar. It took a lot of force but it came out.
    1998 740il | 9/97 build | 228k | schwarz 2 | sandbeige
    mods: m-pars | Bilsteins & B&G springs | suede headliner | Arduino w/ custom I-bus coding | Android HDMI on nav | ValentineOne | StealthOne | llumar ceramic tint | bmw aux w/ 2A usb charging
    retrofits: full nav | MKIV | bluetooth TCU | SES voice recognition | BM53 w/ AUX input | video module w/ AV input | backup cam | I-bus 6 CDC | oem sirius xm | oem xenon | power rear sunshade and side shades | PDC front and rear | rain sensing wipers | BMW DWS tire pressure monitor | interior and exterior lighted door handles | front seat heaters | heated steering wheel | euro rear fog lights | ski pass with non-ski pass arm rest | folding mirrors

  9. #34
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    The holder goes under the subframe on the driver side as racer2086 said above, but you need to remove the brake breather or whatever that black plastic thing is called. Easy to remove it.
    I have used this breaker bar: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with this socket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    - - - Updated - - -



    This is how the proper setup looks like. Good times!

    DSC06849.jpg

  10. #35
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    Same setup on mine, but I used a jackstand on the right to rest the tool on. Impact socket, 3/4" breaker bar, 6 foot section of stainless steel
    aircraft pipe I had laying around. Still took a good bit of force to move it the first millimeter.....

  11. #36
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    Great Picture George; I can work with this one. I won't need a helper either; they're never around when you need them. LOL Hope to have good news tomorrow and be saying, "Thank-You JESUS." I have like an 8 foot steel breaker bar like they use for fence posts; no problem there.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    Great Picture George; I can work with this one. I won't need a helper either; they're never around when you need them. LOL Hope to have good news tomorrow and be saying, "Thank-You JESUS." I have like an 8 foot steel breaker bar like they use for fence posts; no problem there.
    It will come off then. Rest of the task is relatively easy, I only found the timing challenging for the first time. But you are still a long way from there Good luck!

  13. #38
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    Use an impact extension and socket, that's what they're made for... high torque. My HF Earthquake impact wasn't enough on the normal setting of the air compressor set at 90psi. Had to turn it up to 120 and having already had the bolt soaking in pb blaster, was able to get it off quite easily.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiotrC70 View Post
    Use an impact extension and socket, that's what they're made for... high torque. My HF Earthquake impact wasn't enough on the normal setting of the air compressor set at 90psi. Had to turn it up to 120 and having already had the bolt soaking in pb blaster, was able to get it off quite easily.
    Good point, I forgot about the PB blaster, had it on it for a day.

  15. #40
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    Timing Chain update

    6/14/18: A fresh start with renewed enthusiasm was crushed after using a new set up to removing the crankshaft bolt. Used georgebest method of securing the M62 tool against the frame of the car on drivers side. It held nicely. Had to remove several items to successfully get M62 tool under subframe. Resulted in destroying a 24" 3/4 socket Gear Wrench, (metal snapped). I returned the 1/2" socket extension to Sears with no receipts, no questions, and immediate replacement. Nice! Returned 27mm 1/2 inch drive socket with others to Harbor Freight to try and find a deeper 27mm socket, black. No problem with return. NICE! Earthquake XT impact tool did not perform as promised. Next try will be with 3/4" drive breaker bar and 3/4" drive 27mm socket.Gear Wrench bad.jpgM62 opening.jpgM62 subframe.jpg

  16. #41
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    There is a reason we all said 3/4 from the beginning

  17. #42
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    I’ll bet that Earthquake impact would loosen the bolt if you give it some real PSI. I’ve run my HF earthquake at over 150psi when needed.... it’s got some serious balls if you up the PSI. Remember if you are using a 25-50ft hose you are losing significant pressure from the regulator to the air tool.
    My HF earthquake has never failed to loosen a tough fastener if I give it enough psi.
    Last edited by BillConn; 06-15-2018 at 07:52 PM.

  18. #43
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    +1 on impact gun. I took off my bolt using only impact gun (medium duty, I presume). It's not going to look like you are making progress but stay on it, let the gun hammer that sucker! and after a couple of minutes it should come out (depending on your air tank size/psi)... if it doesn't come out, well, hopefully it would've shook up the bolt to make it easier take off using a 3/4" breaker bar.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  19. #44
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    Ive had to use a 1 inch breaker bar with an impact socket of course (BLACK). Even with that, the bar was bending more than I would have liked, but it did come off. You just have to rock it back and forth until it snaps loose. Dont go cheap on sockets or breaker bars in this particular case.

    BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
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  20. #45
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    Like they said, a good breaker bar and socket, PLUS, then go to Home Depot and get a 4-6' long steel pipe, place that on the breaker bar and pull, comes off like butter.

    Flying: Because baseball, basketball, football, golf, soccer, and rugby only take one ball.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by kouks View Post
    Like they said, a good breaker bar and socket, PLUS, then go to Home Depot and get a 4-6' long steel pipe, place that on the breaker bar and pull, comes off like butter.
    I'm on it; got a huge 3/4 drive ratchet, a new 27mm 3/4 socket, the M62 Tool, a new breaker bar with 3/4 male connector, and a 8 foot pipe. I was told over 3 feet was not a good idea, but first time I've heard that. Have you ever heard of anyone "breaking" something rather than the crankshaft bolt turning; not tools but with the vehicle components?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by BillConn View Post
    I’ll bet that Earthquake impact would loosen the bolt if you give it some real PSI. I’ve run my HF earthquake at over 150psi when needed.... it’s got some serious balls if you up the PSI. Remember if you are using a 25-50ft hose you are losing significant pressure from the regulator to the air tool.
    My HF earthquake has never failed to loosen a tough fastener if I give it enough psi.
    The Earthquake XT states 90 PSI is the maximum input. The CFM rating on the compressor is also an important element.....I think.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by georgebest View Post
    There is a reason we all said 3/4 from the beginning
    Just one of the many lessons learned oh wise one.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    I'm on it; got a huge 3/4 drive ratchet, a new 27mm 3/4 socket, the M62 Tool, a new breaker bar with 3/4 male connector, and a 8 foot pipe. I was told over 3 feet was not a good idea, but first time I've heard that. Have you ever heard of anyone "breaking" something rather than the crankshaft bolt turning; not tools but with the vehicle components?.
    This will come off, nothing else really to break there. The head of the bolt is really strong, I cant imagine anybody being able to break that off. Good luck, you seems to be all set!

  23. #48
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    Thanks: All of the above worked and it is now off.

  24. #49
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    Chain Tensioner Locking Clips

    Camshaft Chain Tensioner Locking clips can't be used due to plastic inserts brittle and broke while trying to insert; what do I do now? Thanks.

  25. #50
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