I didn't go back and read thru all of this again but if you had water/coolant in the DME connections, you need to check the 5 fuses in the fuse carrier. One of those fuses stands between the DME and the injectors.
If it is 40-pin connector, then it is the connector no. 4 - X60004.
Its pinout is:
Pin assignments at plug connector X60004
Pin Type Description / Signal type Connection /
Measuring notes1 A Battery charge indicator lamp signal (terminal 61) Instrument cluster 2 A Voltage signal, terminal 30h Integrated electronic control unit (IKE) 3 A Activation, secondary air pump relay Secondary air pump relay 4 E Signal Electric fan Electric fan 5 Not used 6 E Start signal terminal 50 Ignition switch 7 M Ground Pedal position sensor Pedal position sensor 8 E Signal Pedal position sensor Pedal position sensor 9 A Supply Pedal position sensor Pedal position sensor 10 A Activation, fuel pump relay (EKP) EKP relay 11 A Oil pressure indicator lamp Instrument cluster 12 M Ground Pedal position sensor Pedal position sensor 13 E Signal Pedal position sensor Pedal position sensor 14 A Supply Pedal position sensor Pedal position sensor 15 Not used 16 Not used 17 A Engine speed signal output (TD) Diagnostic connector 18 Not used 19 E Signal Reversing light Integrated electronic control unit (IKE) 20 Not used 21 A Signal Oil level sensor Light module 22 E Rear right speed signal ABS/DSC control unit 23 E Signal Clutch switch Clutch switch 24 E Brake light switch signal Brake light switch 25 Not used 26 E Voltage supply, terminal 15 Fuse F14 27 E Data link MFL Coil spring 28 E Brake light test signal Brake light switch 29 E A/C compressor signal Heating and A/C control module 30 Not used 31 Not used 32 A Diagnosis signal TXD Diagnostic connector 33 E/A Communication link (EWS) Electronic immobilizer control unit (EWS) 34 Not used 35 Not used 36 E/A CAN-bus high CAN link 37 E/A CAN-bus low CAN link 38 M Ground Coolant outlet temperature sensor 39 E Signal Coolant outlet temperature sensor 40 A Start signal Start relay
According to this information, pins 38 or 39 should be the most affected as they are going from the coolant outlet temp sensor and this is where coolant can come from.
Also, the 9-pin connector in the picture which you cleaned - is it the one next to the 40-pin, or the one in the opposite side? Which pins were affected the most?
Last edited by Fx323i; 06-19-2018 at 03:42 AM.
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
Pinout for the 9-pin connector could help you out.
Pin assignments at plug connector X60005
Pin Type Description / Signal type Connection /
Measuring notes1 A Suignal, terminal 1 Ignition coil 7 2 A Suignal, terminal 1 Ignition coil 8 3 A Suignal, terminal 1 Ignition coil 2 4 A Suignal, terminal 1 Ignition coil 3 5 M Ground Ground point 6 A Suignal, terminal 1 Ignition coil 1 7 A Suignal, terminal 1 Ignition coil 4 8 A Suignal, terminal 1 Ignition coil 5 9 A Suignal, terminal 1 Ignition coil 6
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
Ok update
I cleaned all the pins with contact cleaner and everything looks nice and shiny again.
Tried to start it... nothing
Tried again but this time held a screw driver up to one of the injectors... didn't here anything.
I would hook up a test light like I did before but I'm sure I'm going to get the solid red light like before, instead of the pulsing light like it's supposed to do to show that its opening and closing.
I can definitely smell gas coming out the exhaust.
Today I'm placing that order to get that 20 pin code reader
But so far still no start
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If you can smell unburnt gas from the exhaust, I would go forward and measure inputs for the unloader relay, which should be located in the ebox right next to the blue relay.
Yesterday I was helping my friend with an X5 E53 MY 2000 (US model here in EU), which sometimes would start and sometimes not. At the moment when the car would not start, you could smell unburnt gas coming from the exhaust just like you did. So I ran through the wiring diagram and with his car, the unloader relay is between the fuse in the Motorsicherungen box and the relay is driven by ignition switch in position 2. We saw that with ignition position 2 on the input of the relay's driving lead, there was no power. So I jump-wired the contacts in the relay (from 30 to both 87 contacts) and the engine fired right up. The problem was not in the relay itself but in the power coming from the ignition switch to the relay. Today we will seek more as we ended at 11 PM with it and had no energy to continue.
EDIT: For which 740i are you seeking help? It would be good to know exactly the build year and month so that we could help you more as there are versions of ECU and wiring involved.
Last edited by Fx323i; 06-22-2018 at 03:49 AM.
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
03/99 740iAL
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OK so everything I wrote you was valid as this is a ME7.2/M62TU (VANOS).
As per your description and suspected injection but no ignition, I would go check inputs and outputs for the unloader relay. In your case it is located as described in the picture attached.
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
Ok this picture looks very accurate to my ebox.
The blue relay correct?
And how do I test the relay to make sure it works with a multimeter. And or the connections.
I'm looking at it and the prongs on the relay are a little toasted but not fully sure if its fully toasted
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Btw I would like to say thank you so much for the patience and the help. This is one of the hardest projects I've ever tackled just because of the wiring issue.
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Also to add, the 20 pin code reader came in.
Plugged it up and everything and still nothing
I have zero codes stored in the module
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The other color (yellow/green - with this colour I cannot say, I am a 16bit color sensing guy). The blue relay feeds the DME, injectors, engages the fuel pump relay. The other one powers ignition coils.
Do not just replace things. Measure inputs and outputs...
K6326.png
For checking the wires you need to find a proper wiring diagram in WDS and measure resistance from the beginning to the end of the particular wire.
For checking power eg. to coils, I would go this way: pull the relay out and see the diagram which is directly on the relay. You will see something like in the picture attached (this picture is for the K6326 relay on BMW E53 MY2000 so yours might be a bit different). Also go to the wiring diagram and see where the inputs go from and outputs go to.
In this case, there are terminals 30, 85, 86 and 87 with a diagram of inner connection of the relay moulded on the side of the relay. The contacts at the bottom are also with signs describing which is which. On this relay, terminal 85 is input from ignition switch in position 2 (before start) - with key in 2nd position you should find +12V there. Terminal 86 is permanent ground, so you can check if terminal 86 has close to zero resistance against any chassis ground. Terminal 30 is input from fuse in MOTORSICHERUNGEN pack, so you should find there +12V at any time. Both terminals 87 are outputs to the coils. When the key is in position 2, the relay clicks if it gets power on terminal 85 and ground on terminal 86. When it clicks, it sends power from terminal 30 to both terminals 87 as seen in the diagram. If you can learn how to measure this relay, you know how to measure any relay in the world.
Of course, you must measure on the female part in the car when the relay is out. If the relay goes bad, it wouldn't send +12V to terminals 87, so this is where you should continue if the system does not do what you expect it to do. If it does not do what is expected, I'd simulate the condition with relay engaged, which means:
a) put the relay in the car and get to the opposite side of the connector. Measure terminals 87 when the relay should be engaged - in this case with key in 2nd position if there is power (+12V). If yes and the coils don't work anyway, measure +12V in the same condition on their connector according to the wiring diagram found in the WDS
b) jump the connection, in this case use a wire to connect terminal 30 to both 87 terminals and see if the system works then. If yes and there is power on terminal 30, 85 and ground on terminal 86, the relay is faulty. If not, there is some problem in the wiring from the relay to the device (in this case ignition coils).
This is just a brief description of what I would do.
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
What year is your car and why won’t you just replace the engine harness. I have 2 good harness for 99-01 facelift cars. Seem like the problem is somewhere in you harness. Specially since you have the classic water damaged plug
Like I said I have 2 good engine harness for facelift e38
I've replaced almost everything related to starting the car
Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator. Fuel filter. Valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, dme, cps, relays fuses, hoses, clamps yada yada
Still no start
Wires are to be suspected
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You need to stop throwing parts at the problem. You must diagnose what the problem is in order to fix it.
I reread from the beginning, and it seemed that you were sure you weren't getting fuel. But then you smell fuel out the exhaust. Those don't add up. Second, you're sure you have spark, but I see no diagnosis of how you know that.
A lot of times, these cars will not start due to no spark because of EWS sync issues or other start-check-items not checking out to let the car start.
Keep in mind that if you've tried to start multiple times with no spark, you've likely soaked the cylinders and plugs with fuel and will have a bear of a time starting it even if you got everything working.
Remember start big-picture, then work down to smaller things as you narrow the scope. So, what is the primary problem: no fuel, no spark, or no compression?
Last edited by racer2086; 06-25-2018 at 02:56 PM.
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If there is spark or injection or even if fuel pump primes after key on (without modification in wiring), then it's not ews out of sync.
But I agree that there needs to be system and diagnosing as throwing parts does not solve a problem unless it's just very clear where the problem is.
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