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Thread: Replaced alot of parts still no start! HELP

  1. #1
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    2001 740i M-Sport

    Replaced alot of parts still no start! HELP

    So after buying at least 2000 dollars in parts, my 740 e38 is still not starting.

    Parts replaced

    Dme + resync

    Fuel filter w/pressure regulator

    Fuel pump.

    Relays

    Valve cover gaskets

    Spark plugs

    Oil change

    Oil filter

    Brand new battery

    THE THINGS THAT HAVE BEEN TESTED

    for sure getting fuel and fuel pressure (fuel squirts out the rail )


    For sure have spark from the coils and plugs tested that with multiple tests.

    I'm getting air throttle body opens.

    Injectors where removed cleaned and tested to see if they worked .

    Crank shaft position sensor should be good. I put a multimeter on it and it read good.

    I also replaced the cam (cps) sensors also.

    Not sure what's happening!?!?! Maybe the dme isn't sending signal to injectors to open

    Battery volt is 11.9 - 12. With the bmw cluster test


    Help would be great thanks


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  2. #2
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    And codes? Replace sensors with OEM? Check the DME fuses in the fuse carrier? I'm not sure how far off the cluster readings are but that is low for a new battery.

  3. #3
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    I've had a quick scan through your previous thread - and we got as far as reckoning that you have a spark but we were not sure if the injectors were firing. The other important point was that there was water damage at the DME - pretty bad damage as well.

    To start with - check it still fires with starter fluid, that would ensure that you have compression and a spark. Each injector should have a permanent 12V supply (with the ignition in position II) - and the other side of each injector is pulled low (and the injector should fire) by the DME. The wiring can be reached through the wiring boxes, but the speed each injector fires is probably too quick for a test light or meter - you are going to have to use an oscilloscope.....
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    I've had a quick scan through your previous thread - and we got as far as reckoning that you have a spark but we were not sure if the injectors were firing. The other important point was that there was water damage at the DME - pretty bad damage as well.

    To start with - check it still fires with starter fluid, that would ensure that you have compression and a spark. Each injector should have a permanent 12V supply (with the ignition in position II) - and the other side of each injector is pulled low (and the injector should fire) by the DME. The wiring can be reached through the wiring boxes, but the speed each injector fires is probably too quick for a test light or meter - you are going to have to use an oscilloscope.....
    Yes, correct before I was not getting any pulse from the fuel injectors but was still getting spark.

    Dme box was fried due to water damage because the last owner forgot to put the e box cover on. It then rained and water probably dripped on the e box as he drove it.

    I replaced the e box and had it reprogrammed and resyned with my keys and ews. That was $1000 fix.

    Having that replaced and having the duel system all good to go I expected the car to start.

    Sadly no start so I bought some cps sensors

    I just installed them today and changed the oil in the car and still no start.

    Is there a certain way the ignition coil ground wires have to go, like does one have to be on top or does it not matter.

    Because I'm sure I have it different on each side of the engine.

    Such a frustrating issue. Tomorrow I'm going to try to start it again with a freshly charged battery.

    Btw I have zero codes coming from the obd2 port in the cabin.

    I wish I had the big circle code reader that goes in the engine bay but I'm not sure where to find one.




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  5. #5
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    I know from my own experience that a little debris/dirt in the ignition switch can cause no start issues. Also I have fixed no starts by replacing the antenna ring. Both of these alone or together can result in frustrating no starts.

  6. #6
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    Here's my journey, not sure it will help.
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Solved-for-now

    You can get a 16pin to 20pin adapter on amazon for a few bucks. I got nothing out of the OBD2 on my 98' so I bought an adapter.
    You have Timm on board so you are in good hands. Based on my results you can just unplug the cam sensors and the engine will fire without them. Unless I'm mistaken if there is a key issue that car will not crank. The crank sensor fires the injectors and the cam sensor fires the plugs. When mine would not start I could smell fuel at the tailpipe. You should hear the fuel pump when you turn the key on and if it's like my 98' there is a throttle plate before the throttle body that will cycle when you turn the key on.
    If you had water/ corrosion in the E-Box you have you go through everything including the plugs. I used an acid followed by an electrical cleaner and then air with plenty of dry time afterward.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RHP View Post
    I know from my own experience that a little debris/dirt in the ignition switch can cause no start issues. Also I have fixed no starts by replacing the antenna ring. Both of these alone or together can result in frustrating no starts.
    That's helpful to know! I'll try cleaning up my switch and investigate!

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by acspecialists View Post
    Here's my journey, not sure it will help.
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Solved-for-now

    You can get a 16pin to 20pin adapter on amazon for a few bucks. I got nothing out of the OBD2 on my 98' so I bought an adapter.
    You have Timm on board so you are in good hands. Based on my results you can just unplug the cam sensors and the engine will fire without them. Unless I'm mistaken if there is a key issue that car will not crank. The crank sensor fires the injectors and the cam sensor fires the plugs. When mine would not start I could smell fuel at the tailpipe. You should hear the fuel pump when you turn the key on and if it's like my 98' there is a throttle plate before the throttle body that will cycle when you turn the key on.
    If you had water/ corrosion in the E-Box you have you go through everything including the plugs. I used an acid followed by an electrical cleaner and then air with plenty of dry time afterward.
    I'll have to pick one up!

    I smell fuel real easy when I try to start it multiple times(not a fan of doing not trying to burn up my starter) or when I manually flip the fuel pump relay, as expected.

    I know fuel system up to the injectors is all good to go. I hear and I've seen the pump function and work so i know that's good to go.

    Could be a possible relay in the ebox that is damaged.

    When I removed the Dme the plugs had corrosion on them.

    The water definitely got to the ebox and on the dme for sure that's why I replaced that. The ecu or the other computer box is good to go. Nothing tells a story of damage. The fuses in the ebox seem fine. I already replaced all green 30a fuses just to be safe.


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  9. #9
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    Ok! So this might seem a little funny but! Maybe might be amazing news!.

    I belevie I plugged the dme backwards

    There is 5 plugs for the dme

    2x 9 pin connectors on either end

    And then 3 other ones that don't need to be specified

    So when looking in my e box just now I noticed clearly that the 2 boxs, ecu and dme, where in reverse order.( ecu was closest to the front of the car, dme farthest)

    Looking more at it I discovered that I plugged the wrong 9 pin connectors into either end of the dme.

    So now I'm going to take it all out and put it in correctly and see if it will start

    🤣🤣

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  10. #10
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    You can..... Do that??? Seems.... Short sighed on BMW's part.....

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 951Dreams View Post
    You can..... Do that??? Seems.... Short sighed on BMW's part.....

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    Actually false alarm BMW actually made it to where to cant so I did put it in right just the order of how the dme and ecu is organized is still incorrect

    Put fully charged battery in still no start

    Noise from throttle body plug

    The alarm is going off but it's super super super quiet and it weird

    Plus the 2 cylinder things on the right side of the engine (left of your sitting in driver seat) are spinning up really fast and its loud

    That's the noise that are come out of the car

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  12. #12
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    If the alarm is sounding the car is not going to start.

    To defeat the alarm:

    Lock the car with the key in the drivers door
    Unlock the car with the key in the drivers door
    Get in the car
    Turn the key to position I (accessories)
    The siren should now stop sounding and the car should start
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  13. #13
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    You need to have the charger, or another car attached and running when trying to start. You may want to use some contact cleaner on the DME plugs and DME contacts, water damage is dicey.

    Voltage is very important. A weak sounding alarm tells me you have a power issue. Check the + and - connections on the battery, and put a charger on it under the hood.
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  14. #14
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    Ok just got off work so I'll try those suggestions.

    Yeah it's the alarm or something like "wewo wewo " sound it's super super quiet and can only hear it when keys in position 2 and you stay still and just listen l, you'll hear it very tiny but it's there. So maybe the security system is being all weird and stuff not sure but I'll update you guys sorry for being so slow on update

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    If the alarm is sounding the car is not going to start.

    To defeat the alarm:

    Lock the car with the key in the drivers door
    Unlock the car with the key in the drivers door
    Get in the car
    Turn the key to position I (accessories)
    The siren should now stop sounding and the car should start
    Tim if this works I'm going to laugh like crazy

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  16. #16
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    Ok Timm I tried what you said and nothing changed everything still the same.

    I also hooked up my dad's truck to the car and still no start

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  17. #17
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    Exact same thing was going on with my 1998 740i but I spent almost $4000 and the whole time it was pin #10 on my DME had corrosion quick whip off and she started right up... At least I have a lot of new parts now
    Quote Originally Posted by Oday0111 View Post
    So after buying at least 2000 dollars in parts, my 740 e38 is still not starting.

    Parts replaced

    Dme + resync

    Fuel filter w/pressure regulator

    Fuel pump.

    Relays

    Valve cover gaskets

    Spark plugs

    Oil change

    Oil filter

    Brand new battery

    THE THINGS THAT HAVE BEEN TESTED

    for sure getting fuel and fuel pressure (fuel squirts out the rail )


    For sure have spark from the coils and plugs tested that with multiple tests.

    I'm getting air throttle body opens.

    Injectors where removed cleaned and tested to see if they worked .

    Crank shaft position sensor should be good. I put a multimeter on it and it read good.

    I also replaced the cam (cps) sensors also.

    Not sure what's happening!?!?! Maybe the dme isn't sending signal to injectors to open

    Battery volt is 11.9 - 12. With the bmw cluster test


    Help would be great thanks


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  18. #18
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    Just to be clear on the battery. When charging it should be 13.4 or more. When at rest off the charger it should be 12.8 or more. Watch the voltage for a few minutes and see if it is falling at rest. If you lose voltage at rest the battery it weak or you have a drain. If there is any doubt just get a battery, it is the foundation that all of the systems run on.

    Remember don't throw parts you will most likely create problems. Another place to check for corrosion is under the passenger seat carpet. I my experience with electrical and electronics 90% of the time it is a loose bor bad connection. You must systematically go through every pin, plug and fuse. For our cars that's a tall order but it is the only way.

    Yes the car will drive you mad! When you succeed and get to drive your car it will all be worth it cuz it ain't no Honda.
    Last edited by acspecialists; 06-16-2018 at 10:29 AM.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oday0111 View Post
    Ok just got off work so I'll try those suggestions.

    Yeah it's the alarm or something like "wewo wewo " sound it's super super quiet and can only hear it when keys in position 2 and you stay still and just listen l, you'll hear it very tiny but it's there. So maybe the security system is being all weird and stuff not sure but I'll update you guys sorry for being so slow on update

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    FYI, the faint “wewo-wewo” sound is not the alarm. There are a lot of threads discussing it, but there is no consistent answer regarding the source of the sound, but the general concesus is the source is the HVAC system.

  20. #20
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    Thanks all for the info gonna definitely do some Battery tests and clean up the dme pins a bit more. I'll update as soon as I'm done with that

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  21. #21
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    Btw what my connectors looked like before I cleaned them

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  22. #22
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    Them out of the housing in deeper detail

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  23. #23
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    I would suspect the engine loom gone wrong. The liquid found in the DME connector comes most likely from the thermostat (middle connector on DME, pin no. 45 should be affected the most) heater element. The problem is, the coolant travels inside of the wire and during time it consumes the plastic wrap of the wires, damaging the wiring harness from the inside and in the most unexpected areas.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fx323i View Post
    I would suspect the engine loom gone wrong. The liquid found in the DME connector comes most likely from the thermostat (middle connector on DME, pin no. 45 should be affected the most) heater element. The problem is, the coolant travels inside of the wire and during time it consumes the plastic wrap of the wires, damaging the wiring harness from the inside and in the most unexpected areas.
    Well the pins that have the corrosion are the second plug from the left of the dme. Its not the big middle connector. It is the one just to the left of that one. Those pins on the broken plug are numbers 1 - 40

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  25. #25
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    Just trying to shed some new light.

    I know for sure that 2 of my fuel injector connectors are missing the little metal clip

    Could it just be that the injector connectors are not in good enough?

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