My oil analysis shows a steady increase of Aluminum. Could any of you guys shed some light on what might be going on? The increase of aluminum seems to have started after the HD was replaced. Could something have happened during the HG job that could cause this? Carbon build-up was cleaned off the piston during the process.
-6psi supercharger
-Stock internals and HG
-ARP studs
-Phil
Any weird noises coming from the front of the motor? When I had a timing chain guide failure, the aluminum levels were slightly elevated because the timing chain was rubbing on the inside of the timing cover. Once the cabin wore right through the cover I finally realized what my noises were and where the elevated aluminum readings were coming from. But I also had odd noise from the front of the motor.
Thanks for chiming in! I'm not hearing anything odd from the engine. So your timing chain was rubbing this cover? (see pic) Any chance a failing or incorrect chain tensioner could cause this? Reason being...while replacing the HG a used (but was told good working) tensioner was installed. May just install a new tensioner and see if the aluminum levels get better. I will also change my CCV system from venting to atmosphere to vacuum to help with blowby.
-Phil
Can the timing cover come off, motor in car, head still on?
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It is possible to force it off, but you would have a really hard time getting it back on and sealed up. It sandwiches between the oil pan and head. You would pretty much have to cut the piece of had gasket off in the front and fill the gap with silicone. Its going to be a messy and shitty job to try to do it that way.
Yes I am talking about that cover. Yes the timing cover can come off with the engine in the car and without removing the head, but not without removing the oil pan which involves supporting the engine from above and dropping the front crossmember.
A weak/failing tensioner will not let the chain contact the inside of the cover because the guides keep the chain away from the cover, but a failed guide (my situation) will definitely lead to chain/cover rubbing. I actually had a small hole right through my cover in the recesses around the passenger side of the water pump which was spraying oil all over the front of my motor. It took me ages to find the leak. Then Brad (chikenhed) did a masterful job of welding it back up for me!!
I’ve done it successfully on an old Datsun with a similar arrangement. Chamfer the alignment dowels so it can move upward as iris installed. You would obviously lower the oil pan, at least a bit, to be able to remove and install the front cover. Try your best not to damage the existing head gasket.
Wait, am I reading this correctly.... this is the first oil change after the head gasket?
It's possible cleaning the pistons introduced extra aluminum or even milling the head could have very small traces of aluminum in the oil galleries.
You're going through 2-3 quarts of oil in 4k miles? Not unheard of on these motors.
9ppm is not crazy high, so I wouldn't be too concered about it. I found a similar issue to you on an n55:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1501099
It's possible to remove the guide rail cover without pulling out the head, but man just like said above, it's gonna be a hack job. Possible though! Sealing it back up is going to be tough. There are bolts from the head that attach it on, and also bolts into the block. The head gasket seals it from leaking oil so when putting it back together you'll likely want to slightly clamp it into the head first, then to the block.
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No, this is about the 5th oil change from replacing the head gasket. You can see how the first has some antifreeze in the oil.
I was mainly going through a lot of oil because of leaks. I've already replaced the rear main seal, flywheel & clutch. It's on the lift now with a motor support to drop the oil pan.
Going to address the oil pump nut, install an oil baffle and replace the rod bearings.
It seems that the situation is not major but wanted to pinpoint what might be causing this. Especially since I'm planning to track the car more, install WMI and eventually a water-to-air intercooler to increase boost.
Here's the comment from Blackstone:
-Phil
Blackstone only sees suspended particulate. Any failure that results in heavier particles or chucks often don’t show up in an oil analysis report. I always inspect the oil filter for contaminants at each oil change as a habit from airplanes. I would never base the serviceability of an airplane on just a Blackstone report, it’s only one part of the picture.
Any of you guys cut your oil filter apart at changes ?
I’ve been seeing metal pieces In there, but I’m still in break-in mode
*edit, looks like yes
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Last edited by SilburE36; 04-04-2019 at 10:14 AM.
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