I have removed the left front engine mount and they are apparently designed to easily be removed in two pieces but not permit a full one piece mount back into the space. I have jacked engine up and down trying to find where the magic space can be created to insert the new mount but failed. Before I start disassembling the cabin air filter box and anything else in the way I thought I would ask the experts. What needs to happen to fit a new mount in there?
I don’t need to worry about the right side mount yet since the top nut on that one rounded with a 6 sided socket. Will tackle that one after passenger side is done.
The fresh air cowl needs to be removed. This will allow enough space to jack up the engine to get the mounts out. You need to remove both nuts on top of the mounts before lifting the engine. I recommend loosening all the fasteners before lifting. The whole process shouldn’t take longer than 30-49 minutes for both sides.
'93 850Ci - Mineralweiß Metallic
2001 740iL - Titansilber
ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiß III
...the price of cool ain't cheap!
Thanks TX. I started removing the air box when I decided it was time to stop for the day. Tomorrow it will be out. Great to have confirmation.
I'm in agony on just two issues.
Perhaps this comes down to the definition of "engine mounts", but the only rubber isolator (aka engine mount) that I ever saw in two pieces was one that had sheered, an obvious failure, not a design feature.
New stuff, firmly in one piece. No choice.
My second concern is when someone in Tennessee implies they "Will tackle that one [right side] after passenger side is done."
However, I've never been to Tennessee. Don't know much about the place.
I have my subframe and suspension out for changing the upper pan gasket and I pulled the motor mounts out so they can be replaced.
Can you do it all in one piece from undernearth or do you still have to do what you stated above?
I am sorry. My sarcasm did not translate well. My left side mount had sheared into two pieces. This failure allowed me to remove the mount in two pieces. Otherwise my problem would have started at the removal of the mount.
Hyper My other mount is where I misstated the sides of the car. I find that if I lay under an 8 series outside in the Tennessee heat for a few hours I start describing things as viewed from underneath. Or just plain saying it wrong.
RJ listen to TX and Hyper not me. These are one piece unless failed and cowl air intake must be removed to lift motor far enough for removal and/or installation. Watch the radiator fan as it clears its shroud. I have also removed the nuts on the oil filter mount on mine since it was being forced upwards also. To be more accurate I cut the wire ties the last owner secured it with. The rubber mounts had previously separated. I will be ordering new rubber mounts for the oil filter.
The engine mounts were after I removed the driveshaft -which I had out 200 miles ago while pulling fuel tank to clean and replace hoses. I had taken driveshaft to a shop to get their opinion on what should be replaced before reinstall and their advice was to put it back in with no new parts. Everything was moving smoothly with no sticky spots. I guess since the car had been sitting for years prior to me taking possession it only took a few miles for the center bearing and then u-joint to fail. I guess I am saying all of this for entertainment and to explain why I walked away from the mounts last night which should have been a short and relatively easy job.
Something else to consider: I generally replace the two transmission mounts when I do engine mounts. This makes sure everything in the driveline is in the correct alignment, it keeps you from getting the slight vibrations in the driveshaft (which can sometimes be a pain to diagnose). Trans mounts are easier to install than motor mounts, and those aren’t that difficult.
'93 850Ci - Mineralweiß Metallic
2001 740iL - Titansilber
ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiß III
...the price of cool ain't cheap!
TX, that’s good advice. I happened to be working from the rear of the car forward and changed the transmission mounts first. I have to say I am pretty impressed by how high the engine needs to come to fit the engine mount in or out. Seems like it’s at the limit of a couple cooling hoses after removing cowl air intake, oil filter, and flex hose from mass air.
One mount is in place. The other appears to have a serious connection between the mount stud and it’s nut. I have had a 2 foot breaker bar on it and I have only achieved rounding the nut. With the amount of force I had on it I was hoping for the stud to break but I think the needed swivel joint is letting me to get off center and round the nut. Sure wish I could reach it with a torch.
After doing this repair myself, I think it is extremely difficult without a ball-style universal joint. I also used a wobble extension. The biggest problem is getting the socket to sit down flush. There is some access from underneath as well. You may be able to guide/hold the socket in place from below. Good luck!
Brett
Read this while trying to figure out how to get the upper half of the motor mount off and it made me realize that mine had failed and were now two pieces
For the Drivers side I used a two foot extension and swivel joint and socket.
For the Passengers side I used the same with a crowsfoot and I am having no luck. Soaked it with some WD-40 last night and will try again. I agree on the torch.
And I made the dumb statement of clearance. With the subframe out you have access from underneath but only with a box end wrench. Might have to go find my cheater bar.
Or I might just drill the nut on both sides and cut it off with my Dremel tool
Last edited by rjjablo; 06-11-2018 at 08:29 AM.
Good Evening to you all
I to have to replace the motor mounts on my 95 840ci parts are sitting in trunk just waiting for all the honey do's to go away. I have checked this forum and found great info here on this projects by BobieM 8-24-2012 (Victory over motor mounts) and found his write up the best info on the 840 motor mount replacement. Also Tim's info on 840on how to remove cabin filter housing and tips are of great value and time saving guides.
So NASH TOM if you look up these two write ups they may offer you a better insight on your project. I wish we all lived on the same block so we could walk next door and gang up together to cheer you on.
Yacolt8,
Any way you can post a link to BobieM's post of 8-24-2012? Using the search function for either that title, or his posts only bring up posts over the past couple of years.
Thanks,
Gary
Gary Knox
'97 BMW 840 Ci
'03 MB SL55 AMG
'07 Mini Cooper S hatchback
'09 Aston Martin DB9 Volante
'13 Audi A8
'90 MB 560 SEC and '94 Porsche 928 GTS recently departed but long enjoyed
50 or so others over the past 70 years of driving
Crows foot and swivel and 2 ft extension did not work on passenger side.
Fired up the dremel with cutoff wheel and cut off nut right next to the bolt. Still did not move. Drilled what was left of the nut and the bolt all the way thru from the side. Finally got it to move. Vise grips on what was left of the nut and used the bottom of the motor mount to get the bolt out.
Looking back I should have just used the dremel to split the bolt right down the middle along with the nut.
What is the best motor mount?
Art here in Wa
I get my parts from Pelican Parts they have been very good all my orders. I just went to the garage and got my bill of sale for my project here is what I ordered
1 Engine Mount (Right) Part #11-81-1-094-150-M270 Brand Is CORTECO
2 Engine Mount (left) Part #11-81-1-094-149-M270 Brand is CORTECO
3 Transmission Mounts 2 shipped Part 23-70-1-141-614-M270 CORTECO
4 Rubber Mounts Oil Filter Housing 2 shipped Part 11-42-1-436-982-M36 Brand is FEBI BILSTEIN
You can order your parts from any where you want mine came from Pelican Parts in Harbor City Ca.
When I ordered my upper and lower control arms the lower ones came with in two days and the uppers came one at a time still with in four day time frame of placing my order.
Hope this helps
Art
Thanks
I just completed this task on an 840 a few days ago. I used a swivel joint with a standard 16mm socket on a 30" extension. Removed the fresh air intake cowl, the fan clutch assembly and flexible intake boot at the MAF. I also disconnected the washer fluid level sensor and the brake pressure sensor on the oil filter canister. Removed both upper engine mount nuts and then raised the engine with a short piece of 2x4 along the front oil pan. You need to raise it about 2-1/2" to 3".
Remove the lower mount nuts, pulled the mount out. (It also helps to remove the lower plastic splashguard that goes between the air boxes). Reinstall everything in reverse order. The whole job took 22 minutes.
'93 850Ci - Mineralweiß Metallic
2001 740iL - Titansilber
ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiß III
...the price of cool ain't cheap!
TxGR8White is much faster than I am! I ate up 22 minutes torching off one nut. Everything else was fine. I will add one thing I learned - the mounting flange on the block is a round hole from the top but a chamfered oval slot from the bottom. If, when lowering the motor, you make sure the top stud of the mount is anywhere in that oval the stud will be guided into the hole in the mounting flange.
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