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Thread: Thrust Arm Ball Joint Spins With Nut While Trying to Loosen Nut..

  1. #26
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    Yes it is. It has the sharp curved edges inside to bite into the head. I can reverse thread the extractor but, the 3/8 drive bit broke inside the extractor and the bolt is recessed. Not sure how Iím going to pull that sucker out unless I bang in a 23mm socket onto the extractor and damage the rim. I have 17ix8 5 star bmw rims, 5 lug recessed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by drewusmaximus View Post
    Yes it is. It has the sharp curved edges inside to bite into the head. I can reverse thread the extractor but, the 3/8 drive bit broke inside the extractor and the bolt is recessed. Not sure how Iím going to pull that sucker out unless I bang in a 23mm socket onto the extractor and damage the rim. I have 17ix8 5 star bmw rims, 5 lug recessed.
    The square drive of the breaker bar is broken in the socket? It should pop out with some prying.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    The square drive of the breaker bar is broken in the socket? It should pop out with some prying.
    I'll try. I'm wondering if a magnet would help pull out the square drive but, I need to get that bolt off and I don't know of a 3/8th tool strong enough to handle the torque. I bought a 3/8 drive 18 inch breaker bar and the square drive snapped easily. The drive said, Warning, 100ft torque maximum. Obviously I need a 3/8 drive tool that can handle more than a 100ft-lbs of torque..

  4. #29
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    Hmm. Come to think of it, I've never used a 3/8 drive socket on wheel lugs. As I said, I've never had that happen specifically (at least partially the reason I convert to studs), but I'm never above calling around for a shop with a good sport who will bail me out with special tools. Got to think a nearby shop will have dealt with a frozen lug bolt and your situation before - just a last resort thought.
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by BleedsBlue View Post
    Hmm. Come to think of it, I've never used a 3/8 drive socket on wheel lugs. As I said, I've never had that happen specifically (at least partially the reason I convert to studs), but I'm never above calling around for a shop with a good sport who will bail me out with special tools. Got to think a nearby shop will have dealt with a frozen lug bolt and your situation before - just a last resort thought.
    Now that you mentioned it, I took the car to two shops prior to replacing the thrust arms to break free the bolts so I don't strip them. One shop did all bolts for 10 bucks, except for one (the stripped one). He said, he couldn't break free the bolt. I went to another shop to see if they can break free the stripped bolt and the guy said, he won't touch it because the impact gun might snap the bolt.
    I said, that's even better!!! He said he won't touch it. That should give you an idea of how the shops around me are.. The first shop didn't have the extractors. They tried banging in a 16mm socket. The other shop was too lazy. So, I'm out of luck with local shops, here in upstate NY...

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by drewusmaximus View Post
    I'll try. I'm wondering if a magnet would help pull out the square drive but, I need to get that bolt off and I don't know of a 3/8th tool strong enough to handle the torque. I bought a 3/8 drive 18 inch breaker bar and the square drive snapped easily. The drive said, Warning, 100ft torque maximum. Obviously I need a 3/8 drive tool that can handle more than a 100ft-lbs of torque..
    Once you fish the broken part out turn the thing clockwise and the extractor will walk right off. THEN you can get some proper tools, 3/8" drive tools have no business working with fasteners this size.
    I'm still not clear if the bolt was cross threaded or not to begin with. Looks like the head is toast for sure now so time get rough with it.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    Once you fish the broken part out turn the thing clockwise and the extractor will walk right off. THEN you can get some proper tools, 3/8" drive tools have no business working with fasteners this size.
    I'm still not clear if the bolt was cross threaded or not to begin with. Looks like the head is toast for sure now so time get rough with it.
    It's not cross threaded. The last time it was getting tires replaced the torqued it too tight. I can't find a 1/2 drive 17mm bolt extractor. I can only find 3/8. When I get the 17mm extractor off, I will use my 16mm bolt extractor, then a 21mm 1/2 drive socket will fit in the recess hole and then I can yank that sucker out. I hasd to do the same thing to my step-son's Audi B6. The B6 has the same lug bolt as the 525i. The only difference is, his rims do not have the recessed holes, which is why it was easy on his car. There was room for the socket to go on the extractor.

  8. #33
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    *cough* drill it per previous suggestion *cough*

  9. #34
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    I'm assuming you used a 1/2" drive 17mm socket to try and remove it initially. Breaker bar or impact?
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  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by BleedsBlue View Post
    I'm assuming you used a 1/2" drive 17mm socket to try and remove it initially. Breaker bar or impact?
    Correct but, it stripped. Breaker bar. Electric impact gun was not powerful enough. The 17mm is a fraction of a nano meter larger than the bolt head, thus stripping. Basically, the only way I'm going to get that bolt off is by removing the 17mm bolt extractor, bang in the 16mm bolt extractor, slip a 21mm socket onto the 16mm extractor and turn...
    It just baffles me how the car vibrates on and off consistently while driving above 55mph. I would accept the vibration if it were continuous but, on and off? Very odd.. Never experienced that before. Even driving with the bolt extractor on the bolt head, you would think a vibration from the imbalance from the stuck extractor would be a consistent vibration, not a cyclical on/off vibration..

  11. #36
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    Might be better to just get another used steering lever arm and slap your new control arms on that.
    Last edited by demetk; 06-14-2018 at 10:11 AM.
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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by demetk View Post
    Might be better to just get another used steering lever arm and slap your new control arms on that.
    I'm confused.. Not sure what you mean.

  13. #38
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    Unless you moved on you were talking about the thrust arm ball joint correct? If so then the ball joint slips into the steering arm. That arm comes off with 3 bolts. Simple process to just replace it than trying all sorts of failed attempts. It's your car, so carry on.
    demet
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  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by demetk View Post
    Unless you moved on you were talking about the thrust arm ball joint correct? If so then the ball joint slips into the steering arm. That arm comes off with 3 bolts. Simple process to just replace it than trying all sorts of failed attempts. It's your car, so carry on.
    I understand.. Thrust arms are completed. The evolved issue at hand occurs when the car reaches 55mph, a low vibration slowly occurs, then slowly dissipates. Two seconds after the vibration occurs, then it dissipates, then occurs, then dissipates, etc, etc... It's a cyclic occurrence while driving at least 55mph. I don't understand how that can occur.

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    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    *cough* drill it per previous suggestion *cough*
    ^^^ yeah, if the extractor is out of the way.....
    SHARP bit, LOW speed, LOTS of pressure, lube and don't let it get hot
    With enough pressure and a sharp bit, even with a bit of modest quality you'll bore through this to the flange. Unless cross threaded once the tension is relieved the remains should unscrew (out the back is easier) without drama.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  16. #41
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    Regarding pulasting vibration: I've seen this before on several vehicles. I don't conclusively know what causes it. My best guess is that it's caused by the interference of two vibration waveforms from two components that turn at slightly different speeds. When they're aligned one way, their vibes cancel out and you feel nothing; when they're aligned 180 degrees away from that, their vibes add up. The vibrations themselves might be on the order of 60Hz but the alignment between them changes at perhaps 0.3Hz.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    Regarding pulasting vibration: I've seen this before on several vehicles. I don't conclusively know what causes it. My best guess is that it's caused by the interference of two vibration waveforms from two components that turn at slightly different speeds. When they're aligned one way, their vibes cancel out and you feel nothing; when they're aligned 180 degrees away from that, their vibes add up. The vibrations themselves might be on the order of 60Hz but the alignment between them changes at perhaps 0.3Hz.
    Thanks for the response. This weekend I will double check the thrust arms, find a way to budge the tie rods to adjust both sides with the string method, and rotate the tires if I get that darn bolt off. The driver side tire is wearing down so, I'm sure that is a contributing factor. Thanks again for the insight!

  18. #43
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    Update: Steering is still shimmering, wanders, and vibrates once 55mph is reached. The cyclic vibration is no longer an issue. I think my lower control arms are shot, thus causing the shimmering. Last weekend when I tried to adjust the Toe, I couldn't turn the tie rod adjuster but, the entire tie rod twisted very easily, as the ball joints were worn. Would that cause the steering to shimmy, wander and vibrate? I bought new lower control arms and the joints are super tight, unlike the arms on the car.

  19. #44
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    Put your car up on stands and push/pull on the wheels and then test every joint with a crowbar or long screwdriver. tie rods are usually the first to go, after that then thrust arms, then swaybar, then lower arms, then steering links in order of wear.
    Last edited by fo3; 06-21-2018 at 11:58 AM.

  20. #45
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    I tested the wheels when I replaced the thrust arms. The tie rods move very easily when I tried to move the tie rod adjuster. The swaybar/ bushings, engine mounts, and steering links look good. It's very annoying and stressful worrying if I'll lose control of the car and can't drive over 55mph.

  21. #46
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    Loose tierods will wander for sure, but I've never seen them cause a vibration.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    Loose tierods will wander for sure, but I've never seen them cause a vibration.
    Stupid me... Here's what happened. I replaced the thrust arm, brake pads, rotors, and rotated the tires on the passenger side. Then I started on the driver side and couldn't get the front wheel off because of the stripped bolt. Furthermore, I moved on by replacing the thrust arm with the wheel on and forgot that I swapped the tires on the passenger side, which I assume caused the cyclic vibration. Basically, I forgot the pass side tires were swapped. I swapped them back and the vibration is gone. However, the shimmy and wandering is still present. I believe it's safe to assume the lower control arms are toast, since it is so easy to move them while I was trying to adjust the toe. The tangled webs we weave just to save a buck.. But, the wisdom obtained is priceless...

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