Driver's window only goes up 1/3 of the way ?!

[dohalloran]

So I took the door panel and vapor barrier off thinking there's something blocking it. But nothing in the way that I can see. I have the window/mirror switch hooked up, and now none of the windows work ! Nor does the mirror switch, for that matter.

All the windows will go down with a 2nd press and hold of the key fob. That part is normal. And they'll go up with a right turn of the key in the driver's door. That's all good too.

Could this just be the relay ?

[dohalloran]

Well, not much progress made today, although it was much easier to work outside without the mosquitoes. Still getting no response from the driver's door switch, and I think the other issue with the window not going up is purely mechanical. But I don't feel like pulling the whole thing out, regulator and all. I had the glass out, and the mounts and the cables seem fine, but I suspect the pulley wheel near the handle is messed up/broken.
Should I go NEW with a window regulator, or pick up a USED one from a friend who has an abundance of these cars lying around ??

[adm750]

dohalloran - fwiw....my passenger side was doing the same thing.... The wire that pulls that car up and down the regulator rail kept popping out around one of the little tabs that are on there to keep the wire guided inside the channel as the window was rolled up. The result was the wire would pull the car up but partway up, it wound up on the outside of that tab as it travelled upwards (due to the way the wires swings out, then back in, as the car makes its arc upwards on that rail). This made the car run into that tab and kept it from travelling any further up the rail. (the precursor to this failure is that "click" noise that people complain about when they roll up the windows in these cars...the car rides up the rail and just nicks that tab making that click sound) I assume it will roll down fine but stop 1/3 the way up as you noted ?? There was something tweaked in my regulator rail where I could never get that fully resolved till I replaced it with a URO part. The URO has a different rail and does not have those tabs that can trap the wire. hope this helps...

[dohalloran]

Spot on with those comments. I had that click going on for a long time, in fact. I ended up buying a used regulator complete with motor. $100 cash CDN, 20 minutes up the road from me. Dealer here wanted $281 JUST for the regulator !!
I installed it myself; watched a few Youtubes, one, where the guy said, "This part of the process is a real bitch.", and the other one, where the guy did a nice neat and tidy no swearing install !! I never swore once during removal and install. Easy-peasy.
However, my door switch took a beating, and now only the passenger side window switches work. So dead mirror buttons too ! I noticed that I accidentally dislodged the ribbon cable inside the switch housing, but that fixing that didn't make things right.
I will get my hands on a used driver's door switch.
I recall with my first parts car that I wish I'd save the regulators and the switches. Alas, I'm way ahead buying used and doing it all by my lonesome.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and the issue, of course, was that top white round roller that sits near the door button. It must take the brunt of the load. The cable had slipped off, but the roller was worn away to the point where I had to buy a new reg. So all is good.

[adm750]

cool you got it squared away. nothing wrong with a pre-loved part, some youtube help (man there are some real blowhards on there...lol..), and a bit of sweat equity...!! The front regulators aren't as bad as people make them out to be...it just takes a bit of patience to get the window glass adjusted so it slides right. I used a Fleece Crested Scepter of Q-tip from Lord Business and took the time to lightly coat inside the full lengths of the window channels with Wurth True Glide before I fit the glass though. I think that helps immensely.

Sucks that your switch got nackered up...but sounds like you'll have that rectified in short order.

Good to know that you found the actual problem too. I kept thinking I had my issue resolved but at random, that wire would pop out around that tab and leave us with a stuck window. I fixed it on the side of the road countless times using only a pocket knife to remove the panel (and sometimes the glass carrier) until I finally just put the tools in the glovebox. I even replaced the regulator with a new aftermarket one and it did the same thing..! (which actually means the mount for the base of the track is probably tweaked enough to twist the regulator rail...that r/f door has had bodyshop work...). This will never happen the way the URO is designed. Some other shit will fail with it eventually I'm sure, but that trapping-of-the-wire bull$#!t won't be the cause..! haha

take care !!