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Thread: Breaking issue....kind of....

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    Richmond Va
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    2001 BMW 325ci

    Breaking issue....kind of....

    Hello all... I have a 2001 325ci convertible that runs great but after driving for about 10 min and everything gets warmed up, the break light on the dash comes on and the vehicle jerks quickly to right. After it drives smoothly again, but break light stays on for duration of car running. new breaks. cant find anything when put on computer at shop. just at a loss... any help anyone?

  2. #2
    Pelican Parts's Avatar
    Pelican Parts is offline Senior Member Supporting Vendor
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    '02 E39 Touring
    Sounds like a possible warped brake rotor. Have you gone through the suspension to make sure everything is tight? When reading the codes, are you using a scan tool for BMWs?
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  3. #3
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    Two Z3 Roadsters
    Scan for error codes. If the brake light comes on, there will be an error code.
    1999 2.8L Z3 Roadster,
    2000 3.0L Z3 Roadster,

    There is only one thing more pleasurable than working on a Z3, that's driving it top down on a fine day.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Chicago, IL
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    2001 330i and 2005 330i
    What do you mean by "new brakes"? Did you do the work or someone else? Re-check that everything is cool with that work. Does the RF spin freely when jacked up...
    Johnny Murray

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Netherlands
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    My Cars
    E46 320i 2001
    Sounds like caliper hangs , heats up.. jams up...

    How the rims feel, the one that hangs way more hot ?

  6. #6
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    EXOTICS
    You need a scan performed with,
    BMW software or a BMW specific scan tool,
    as you can't communicate with all the BMW modules without.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Honolulu, Hawaii
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    '73 E9, '94 E34, '02 E46
    1. it's "brakes" not how you spelled it.

    2. "Warped rotor" is usually a misdiagnosis, and anyways a warped rotor would reveal itself the first time you used the brakes. Since you don't report this, a warped rotor is not your issue. READ THIS, written by the pros: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

    3. BMWs used to be notorious for the front brake flex lines swelling internally and not allowing brake fluid to return to the master cylinder. This causes the caliper to stay closed and pads in contact with the rotor, overheating the pads and in turn affecting their coefficient of friction. Diagnose this next time after it happens by putting your hand at first near, then on the front wheel hubs. If on is hot (I suspect the right side from your description of brakes pulling that way) you have a sticking caliper and need new flexible brake hose lines. In my cars they have required 14 mm open end wrench and and an 11 mm flare nut wrench to remove/replace, YMMV. You can use the stainless braided hoses if that's your thing. You'll need to bleed the brakes afterwards.

    4. The brake light monitors the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and the position of the parking brake. Check the fluid level and that the parking brake is fully disengaged. Sometimes the sensing switch on the parking brake mechanism can be bumped out of position, check for that too. The last thing the dashboard light checks is the thickness of the brake pads, so make sure you have adequate thickness remaining. Brake pads come with a slot in them, and if you can't see the slot, it's time for new pads. At the mileage your car has, I'd also check rotor thickness and compare to minimum thickness spec.

    5. I herewith invoke Mechanic's Rule: When something is screwed up, look into the last thing you messed with. You see, far too often we create our own problems through misdiagnosis, ignorance or clumsiness. Most of what I've learned has been discovered by having to do things twice. We are our own worst enemy, more times than most of us, including me, will admit. Thus, if you've messed with the brakes, it's entirely possible that what you did, however well-intentioned, contributed to the problem rather than the solution. AMHIK!
    Last edited by Honolulu; 06-11-2018 at 04:03 AM.
    Charlie

    Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to these threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same or similar problem stands on your shoulders.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Netherlands
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    My Cars
    E46 320i 2001
    Just replaced.. guess what 4 out of 4 calipers , due the same problem as OP.
    ( actually, rear one's was a freak incident that screwed one of them up )
    They all got there time, last bmw i replaced my calipers at 240k , this one now at 270k

    Full replacement kits are so cheap these days that its nearly not worth it to revision them.


    Computer won't find this mechanical issue ( unless, well.. MAYBE it will show something on the wheel sensors.. MAYBE )
    Just do as mentioned above, temp-check your wheels..
    Hot .. not good.. mild "warm" only acceptable after aggressive driving.
    ( well.. unless track day or something )

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