Vanos Solenoid Removal Issue

[Jerry Scholder]

Is this a left handed thread? Have a ARES 1/2" 6 PT Axle Nut 32mm Socket. Will not grip bolt; maybe stripped? Can upper timing chain cover come off with VS on?
Anything else I can try to get a purchase on the bolt head if stripped? Is the Socket correct? Not sure of my options. Thanks for help. 2001 740i M62, 200,000 miles.

[ptarditi]

With the valvecover off you might adequate access, to use a wrench.v Otherwise you need a thin walled deep socket.

[bmwdirtracer]

Yeah, normal socket's not deep enough... I custom made one for this.

Jerry, PM me with your address. I will loan you this tool. I'll mail it tomorrow, if I can get away from work for long enough to run to the post office. No charge; you can reimburse me the postage when you return the tool. I don't have an M62 on my immediate agenda, so I can likely spare it for a week or two. If you need to have the tool for longer, or permanently, have a look at:
AST (Assenmacher Specialty Tools
Baum Tools
German Auto Solutions

....I forgot someone.....

[Jerry Scholder]

Chris: A most generous offer, however I'll go ahead and order one and I can always resell it in the future. I did look them up. I ordered the deep socket 32mm but the walls must be too thick. Your replies are always appreciated. Thank-you again for your offer.

- - - Updated - - -

I will order the proper tool. I'm still way ahead of the game doing this job myself and expected I would need a few extra tools along the way. I will try to sell them afterwards. The socket I have is deep, but just too thick of walls probably. Is the thread left handed?

[bmwdirtracer]

Normal thread. Note that the thread is VERY short....maybe 5 turns - 1/4 inch. If you tighten it too much, you can strip the housing it fits into. It's an o-ring seal, so no need to overtighten. That's just an advance warning; I did this once, a long time ago, and I was quite embarrassed.

DO NOT try to turn the solenoid with pliers or similar on the cylinder itself; this will just break it. (This one I learned from other people's mistakes.)

[Jerry Scholder]

FYI: I have a thread on the 7 series site labeled "Timing Chain Project" and will be communicating with others for help with any issues. I will only ask for your help, if someone is unable to answer my questions so as not to take your time. Can't wait to get going again. Have another "re-stored" 2001 740i in the Garage for back-up if needed.

[PlatinumV8]

I agree with BMWDirtRacer. You need the thin walled actual BMW tool to get the VANOS sensors off. I bought one off Amazon when I was doing VCG and TCG when I first got my project 7 a few years back that had a ton of oil leaks from cooked gaskets. There was one timing cover section that I could not get free without that tool. Very few turns of the wrench, shortest stack of threads I've seen on a large sensor like those.

Also while I had the valve covers off, I used aircraft paint stripper to remove the gaudy flaked gold paint and smooth them with a die grinder and then baked on some high temp paint in black color, like I was told the M cars used. It looks fantastic with the black engine cover pieces and really is satisfying to lift the hood and not see the flaking gold with a rough casting anymore!

Good luck with your 7!

Debbie

[Jerry Scholder]

I agree with BMWDirtRacer. You need the thin walled actual BMW tool to get the VANOS sensors off. I bought one off Amazon when I was doing VCG and TCG when I first got my project 7 a few years back that had a ton of oil leaks from cooked gaskets. There was one timing cover section that I could not get free without that tool. Very few turns of the wrench, shortest stack of threads I've seen on a large sensor like those.

Also while I had the valve covers off, I used aircraft paint stripper to remove the gaudy flaked gold paint and smooth them with a die grinder and then baked on some high temp paint in black color, like I was told the M cars used. It looks fantastic with the black engine cover pieces and really is satisfying to lift the hood and not see the flaking gold with a rough casting anymore!

Good luck with your 7!

Debbie

Problem solved. It was the new socket tool that did the trick. These cars are very touchy when not using the proper equipment to service them. Learned this now with the M62 tool needed; socket required for crankshaft removal and socket needed to remove a Power Steering hose off the Steering Gearbox; bolt is nearly under the head.

[Jerry Scholder]

Chris: The Crankshaft, (Jesus Bolt) is finally off. The 3/4 sockets, M62 set up under the subframe and the new 27mm 3/4 socket all were reason for success. These cars really don't like you to use tools not specifically called for. I'm now on the Bank 2 torx bolt for the exhaust camshaft. (left hand thread). The reasoning behind supporting the camshaft with a 27mm wrench is making me curious. Wouldn't the cam blocks do this? This bolt is also on very tight and the 55 torx isn't all that firm in the head. I put the cam blocks on before this step so will take off before attempting as advised in GAS instructions. Chris at GAS is a really nice guy; I recommend him for any work required. He rented me the M62tu timing chain guide tool kit.

[bmwdirtracer]

I don't remove the cam locks, but I do, always, have someone strong hold a wrench on the cam's 27mm flange. Why? THE CAM IS HOLLOW. Support it, or cry when it breaks.

Very often, an impact gun is a far superior device for removing an exceptionally tight bolt. No, it will never provide you with the "feel" of a bolt about to break, but it avoids the sideways torque of a normal ratchet wrench, which tends to strip the heads of bolts.

I've drilled extra holes in my fan-clutch holder, to hold crankshafts. Plus, I have a 3/4" drive impact gun. Plus, I have another trick or two I won't share, because they are greatly frowned upon. Crankshaft bolts don't give me much problem.

[325bob]

I don't remove the cam locks, but I do, always, have someone strong hold a wrench on the cam's 27mm flange. Why? THE CAM IS HOLLOW. Support it, or cry when it breaks.

Very often, an impact gun is a far superior device for removing an exceptionally tight bolt. No, it will never provide you with the "feel" of a bolt about to break, but it avoids the sideways torque of a normal ratchet wrench, which tends to strip the heads of bolts.

I've drilled extra holes in my fan-clutch holder, to hold crankshafts. Plus, I have a 3/4" drive impact gun. Plus, I have another trick or two I won't share, because they are greatly frowned upon. Crankshaft bolts don't give me much problem.

An old mechanic's trick on crankshaft bolts was locking the breaker bar to floor/frame,and hitting the starter, never saw anything break.

[bmwdirtracer]

Yeah, I'm not comfortable mentioning that "trick", because it can break stuff, really quickly. Sure, I've watched it work, but you know, when it fails, you've got a major mess.

[Jerry Scholder]

I've learned one very important thing as a "Newbie" to doing work on your car; do it the way it's supposed to be done and you won't be disappointed and have any surprises; you may find out you didn't really do it the way you thought it was supposed to be done, but you can always find someone who will get you back on the right track. Experience from removing a timing chain lower cover. You always miss one bolt. Once I was convinced I missed it and looked where I was directed, the cover came off like butter. Not using the proper tools; it makes the job so much harder. Unfortunately, I did damage the upper oil pan gasket, but only in the front and a little around the corners; there is gasket showing that I can connect to from a new gasket cut to fit.

Is there any way to check the rest of the gasket is in fact intact? I will seal entire area just in case, when I find out how. So Great to be able to carry on.