Koni Cut a Strut and Strut Mount

[SteveG66]

Good morning, looking for advice on how to tighten the strut bolt to the mount for the Koni Sport shocks, the shaft is a 13mm and the nut is 7/8”. How do to I hold the shaft while tightening the bolt with the mount since it’s recessed into the mount? I’ve searched and have not been able to find where it’s been discussed, I guess it’s probably straightforward, just not for me....

On a good note, Local fellow ZM Roadster and forum member has helped me...well he actually did most of the work, helped me replace the clutch line this weekend. Also we replaced the subframe bushings a few weeks ago, so we’re getting the car sorted out! Hoping to get this back on the road soon!! Thanks Tim!!

Thanks to Tim and this forum, the input and advice from everyone has been so helpful, this is a great community to be a part of.

[SteveG66]

Wanted to let you all know that I spoke with Koni, they suggested a strut wrench, I didnt know they even existed. Go figure.....shows you my experience level, although I'm trying!!! Hope to have it back on the road soon, have a great day!!!

[bluptgm3]

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22038




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[SteveG66]

bluptgm, thanks for the reply and the link. I just ordered from ECS the two sided strut wrench, should be here by Saturday....ECS is much slower than the other sites I've purchased items from but they had this in stock.

Thanks again,
Steve

[jdjkelowna]

I installed Koni struts a few days ago. I used a BMW top nut instead of what came with the Koni, so it was 21mm. Turned out to be a surprisingly easy solution, and basically what the link posted above depicts. I picked up a 21mm deep socket for a half inch drive. Then shaved a miniscule amount of material from 2 sides near the top with an angle grinder so that a 1" wrench would slide on and turn it. Then put a 1/4 extension through the top hole of the 21mm and snapped a 13mm socket to the extension. I later added a 3/8 adapter to the top of the 1/4 extension (I tourqued to 60 ft lbs so the 1/4 ratchet had too skinny of a handle and moved up to a 3/8 to save my hand). Then used the 1" wrench on the new "flats" of the 21mm socket and started running the top nut down while holding the shaft from spinning with the 13mm nestled inside.

I guessed at the tourque and periodically would take the 13mm assembly out of the 21mm deep socket and test where I was at with a tourque wrench in the 21mm. If the tourque wrench clicked, I was as at least as tight as the setting on the tourque wrench. If the nut began to spin before the tourque wrench "clicked", I'd run it down a bit more with the open ended wrench on the 21mm with the 13mm assembly back inside.

The 21mm "sacrificial" socket cost me about $8(Cdn) at the hardware store. Shaving two flat sides with an angle grinder took less than 5 minutes. I was going to order a special tool, but turned out just fine without one.

strut tool.JPG

BTW, what did you tourque to? I couldn't believe how bad the "instuctions" were with the Koni's. Kinda like cave writing.

Cheers, John

bluptgm, thanks for the reply and the link. I just ordered from ECS the two sided strut wrench, should be here by Saturday....ECS is much slower than the other sites I've purchased items from but they had this in stock.

Thanks again,
Steve

[ECSTuning]

^that's pretty crafty.

I'm a fan of using a strut wrench (LINK) or strut nut socket (LINK)... mainly because I already have them in my toolbox, if not I'd probably be making a tool like John did.

-James

[SteveG66]

John, awesome write up, i wss finally able to get the springs pulled last night, cut one strut and setup do the same today reassembly. I'm planning on using 40 ft lbs on the top bolt, I've seen 47- 78 ft lbs..ehat did you use?

[jdjkelowna]

The torque confused me a bit. Bentley says 48 ft-lbs. The instructions that came with the Koni's suggested 59 ft-lbs if on 14mm threads. I Googled the part number for the BMW top nut I ordered and it said the internal thread was 14mm so I went with 60 ft-lbs. Nothing broke (yet). On the Koni instruction sheet, it does mention a torque value of 92 ft-lbs (!!!) If you use certain poorly drawn nut. That was so out of whack with Bentley, I disregarded any possibility I have such a nut.

I don't have an M, so we may have a different set up and torque values tho!

Best part of the whole job was putting the spring compressors away - yikes!

[SteveG66]

Going to put it all together today using 48ft lbs. The old mounts seemed good, so ill reuse those until i can take mite time to pull it all apart and repaint the struts and components this winter. Then I'll replace the mounts... need to enjoy the car s little bit before i take it out of commission for a while again.

[jdjkelowna]

I put in new mounts because I had ordered them, but looking at the old ones out of the car, pretty sure I didn't need to. It appears they wear very well. I think the original shocks wear well too. A bit of an improvement from the 19 year old originals, but not a whole lot.

[SteveG66]

I agree, I considered replacing the mounts but they did not have cracked rubber, bearings were smooth, so reused. Now that I've done it I'm not afraid to redo if necessary. I wouldnt bother with the Koni's again for two reasons: I won't be able to make adjustments in the front with the supplied knob due to the orientation of the adjuster with the mounts, and the rears must be removed for adjustments. That being said, the front seems more planted than it was with the original shocks with 104k miles. Next step will be to replace the FCAB's and get it alighned but I'm gonna drive it a bit before I do that. All in all I'm glad it's now finally done!!!

[SteveG66]

ECS and James: I did purchase the dual headed 21/22mm strut wrench and it was a no-go due to how tight the opening was on my OE strut mounts, I didn't see a strut nut socket in your link that I think would work with the Koni's and the 13mm shaft that I can see, but I'm not an authority on this just glad it's done.

If you could get Schwaben or Koni to take a deep well 22mm socket and shave flats onto the top (like a spark plug socket) then they'd have a winner. I'd figured something like this existed but was unable to find one in my research, my search terms may have been wrong as well. That was the most difficult part of the strut change.

THanks for following and replying!!!

^that's pretty crafty.

I'm a fan of using a strut wrench (LINK) or strut nut socket (LINK)... mainly because I already have them in my toolbox, if not I'd probably be making a tool like John did.

-James

[jdjkelowna]

I saw some 21mm spark plug sockets on eBay, but was already to the point of the job where I had to have them so improvised rather than wait for something in the mail. How'd you eventually get them tightened?

Surprised the front adjuster doesnt fit with your Konis. Works fin on the non-m setup. Rear is a pain. I want to adjust already but not sure it's worth the headache.

[SteveG66]

I did the same as you to get them tightened, i ground some flats onto a socket. I can adjust the fronts, not with the knob though, the mounts for M's leave the adjuster tucked back close to the reinforcement plates. I can't get the knob on but can use a really small wrench in it to adjust the shock. I also would like to adjust the rears but not ready to pull it all apart again.

[MartyBtoo]

I haven't needed to try it on mine, but I was under the impression that you could adjust the rear single adjust shocks by disconnecting the bottom, pushing them up until the adjustment dogs engage, then turning the lower body. Isn't that true?

Marty

[bluptgm3]

I was under the impression that you could adjust the rear single adjust shocks by disconnecting the bottom, pushing them up until the adjustment dogs engage, then turning the lower body.

Marty

Possibly, but I believe the rear ‘bump stops’ get in the way and don’t allow enough compression.

TCKline, Ground Control (and possibly others) supply externally adjustable rear dampers.

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[SteveG66]

You're right, the bump stops have to be taken out to adjust. The adjusters on the m's put it to far back to slide in the knob... oh well. They did improve the ride though...

[MartyBtoo]

Damn, forgot about the bumpstops. My Konis have been on the car for several years, and I haven't felt the need to adjust them yet.

Marty

[lpschafer]

I did the same as you to get them tightened, i ground some flats onto a socket. I can adjust the fronts, not with the knob though, the mounts for M's leave the adjuster tucked back close to the reinforcement plates. I can't get the knob on but can use a really small wrench in it to adjust the shock. I also would like to adjust the rears but not ready to pull it all apart again.

I'm in the middle of the Koni cut-a-strut process on my 2000 M Roadster and wondering if the shocks can be adjusted prior to reinstalling the strut assembly?

[bluptgm3]

I'm in the middle of the Koni cut-a-strut process on my 2000 M Roadster and wondering if the shocks can be adjusted prior to reinstalling the strut assembly?

Yes, call TCKline for the recommended settings.


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[timreldridge]

I guess I need to log in to the forums a little more often! You are welcome Steve I was happy to help out!