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Thread: Tires Recommendation and Spare Tire Kit for 2014 BMW 750i drive

  1. #1
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    Tires Recommendation and Spare Tire Kit for 2014 BMW 750i drive

    (note: I checked the forum for answers to this before posting...could not find something that answered the below)

    Hello, I have a 2014 750i xdrive. It has the "M-Sport Package" (including the rims that come with it, that I understand from my dealer these rims are 'soft'). The car only has 22k miles and has the original "run flat" tires on it. I live in New England, which means lots of potholes. I have had to have the rims straightened once already, and suspect I have to have that done again. It was expensive, I forgot how much. I just noticed a big bulge in the sidewall of one of the run flats, which means I slammed a pothole and likely the rim needs straightening.
    My questions:

    - If I ditch the run flats and get regular tires, will that mean I am less likely to bend the rims when I hit a pothole, or more likely? (run fast have stiff sidewall and I am wondering if that means when I hit a pothole it just transfers the energy to the 'soft' M-Sport Rim increasing the likelihood of bending rim or that it protects it more since a "regular" tire would have more give and therefore more likely to have pothole directly impact the rim?

    - Any recommendations of good All Season non-run flats for this car?

    - Is there any good "spare tire kit" (spare donut/rim/tire, jack, and cover for the spare) that you would recommend?

    - If it makes sense to stick with the run flats - any recommendation on good run flats for this car, or should I just stick with the kind that came with the car (EAGLE LS2)?

    - I read somewhere that some people with these cars get tire/rim insurance...any idea on good source for that?

    I really like the car, but this "tire/rim bending" issue while owning one in New England is getting to be a hassle. I've on put ~13K miles on the car in the last 3 years and this will be 2nd time I have to deal with rims/tires.

  2. #2
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    I had a very similar issue with my 135i when I had run-flats...my tire guy also mentioned that BMW rims are 'softer' than other manufacturer wheels. I switched to 'regular' tires and have not had a single issue. Not sure what your tire sizes are, but I'm currently on Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2 tires and love them...other members will likely chime in with their experiences as well. Best of luck!
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  3. #3
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    I can relate to your experience of tire/wheel damage and expense to repair/replace.
    From my experiences and observations on this subject,
    I would suggest the smallest rim diameter applicable to your vehicle.
    Low profile tires/rims are constantly in danger of damage on pothole laden streets.

    I tired of the hassle myself, and sold the 19"rims/tires and downgraded to a 16"wheel/tire package from Tirerack.

    All the vehicles in my family run on ContinentalExtremeContact DWS 06 tires.
    They are a highly rated All-Season non-RFT, an affordable, reliable, compliant choice in an all-season.

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    @PelicanParts and @MIKYZZ4 thanks for the responses. Sounds like I should go with non-run flat and put a spike tire kit (donut/jack) in the trunk. I have had ContinentalExtremeContact DWS 06 tires on some of my other cars and had good luck. I only had Hankook on one car for a week before I sold it so limited experience and it was not the Ventus V12 Evo2. I am going to check out both Continentals & Hankook.

    I'm going to try to stick with the 19 inch M-Sport rims for now, but I suspect it may be a mistake if I want to reduce chance of bending a rim again. This is one of the things that drive you nuts....get a car that so expensive and the engineers don't give enough thought to rims/tires pothole thing.

    Any suggestions on spare tire kit for BMW?

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    You might want to check on the advisability of using a donut spare. My understanding is that if you use significantly different OD (outside diameter) tires, you run a high risk of damaging the AWD system. I believe that the AWD system has to do too much compensation with different tire sizes. I've even purchased used tires in the case or a ruined tire, matching as closely as possible the tread depth of the other three tires.

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    Good point....I completely forgot about the AWD and outside diameter thing. I do know there are different size "donut spares" and BMW sells the rim and kit, so maybe if I get a donut/spare but put a donut tire that is large enough (OD matches) that will work.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by conroyt View Post
    You might want to check on the advisability of using a donut spare. My understanding is that if you use significantly different OD (outside diameter) tires, you run a high risk of damaging the AWD system. I believe that the AWD system has to do too much compensation with different tire sizes. I've even purchased used tires in the case or a ruined tire, matching as closely as possible the tread depth of the other three tires.
    Did some more homework. Turns out you can get a donut with close enough diameter to not be a problem. I would still only use the to get home/get to a garage to replace the flat in any case.
    I hate to give up the trunk space for donut. BMW 750 trunk space is not a big as one would think. But I just hit another pothole hard a few weeks ago and have to get rim straightened and run flat has bubble in sidewall now. These run flats are awful. What a hassle and bad idea by BMW.

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    I am thinking of going to the non run flat ContinentalExtremeContact DWS 06, but will end up giving up a lot of trunk space for the donut/spare. One of the tire stores suggested possibly trying a run flat with a higher sidewall in order to prevent the bent rims. My car currently has 245/45R19 all the way around (it's a 2014 750i xdrive). I found some good run flats, so maybe I would not have to give up the trunk space for a donut/spare, the run flats are Michelin Primacy MXM4 ZP that are 245/50RF19, so a slightly taller sidewall than the 245/45/R19 Goodyears that are on the car. I called BMW dealer and while they said those tires would fit - they would not recommend them since it would change the overall rolling diameter of the tires/wheels and may "confuse things" like the speedometer and other sensors/processors that rely on a certain rolling diameter on this car. I told the dealer - "I know we can't have different rolling diameters on the front/rears since this is an all wheel drive car, but if the rolling diameter is slightly different on all 4 tires why is that a problem? You offer 19" and 20" rims on the same year/model and those have different diameters". His response was that if your order the same car 2104 BMW 750i xdrive and you get 20" rims instead of 19", that they give you a lower profile tire, like a 35 vs. 45 so as to keep the diameter close to the same.
    Any thoughts/ideas as to whether going from a 245/45 to a 245/50 on this car will really cause any problem (the dealer and tire store both said it would not cause rubbing)?
    I asked the dealer "ok then whats your option for having this car in New England and not continually bending the rims that come with the car" ....he's a decent guy and he said "none" ..... so they have no answer except fixing 2-3 bent rims every year at $200 a piece and the continual hassle of bringing your car in for this repair.....what a hassle/bad design!

  9. #9
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    Any tire can be installed,as long as the outside rolling diameter is within 3% of factory specs.
    You can do 18"wheels, an extreme example would be even
    245/45ZR17" rims/tires if they can clear the brake calipers.
    The offset on new rims is the primary concern along with tire diameter.
    I am thinking of going to the non run flat ContinentalExtremeContact DWS 06
    Btw, an excellent tire choice!
    Last edited by MIKYZZ4; 12-06-2018 at 04:12 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Any tire can be installed,as long as the outside rolling diameter is within 3% of factory specs.
    You can do 18"wheels, an extreme example would be even
    245/45ZR17" rims/tires if they can clear the brake calipers.
    The offset on new rims is the primary concern along with tire diameter.
    Btw, an excellent tire choice!
    Thank you for your answer.
    The old tires are 245/45/R19 Diameter: 27.68" Circumference: 86.96"
    The new tires would be 245/50/R19 Diameter: 28.6" Circumference: 89.99"

    So the circumference of the new ones is 3.48% larger and diameter is 3.32% larger.

    I am not sure I understand the term "rolling diameter", are you referring to a. the diameter of the tire b. the circumference or c. how many revolutions one size tire rolls in a mile vs. a different size?

    Two two differences I cite above (3.48% and 3.32%) are pretty close to 3% and I am wondering if 3% is a general rule of thumb or precise number, and I don't know if either represent "rolling diameter".

    In any case I am wondering if these 245/50's will work on my 2104 750 i drive.
    The guy at the Tire store says they will but that when my speedo says I am going 65 mph, I will actually be going 67 mph, and that will be there only practical thing that the different size effects.
    Any help is appreciated

  11. #11
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    Sorry for the confusion. As a,b,c are interrelated I use the term loosely.

    According to the experts at TireRack, the tires on xdrive cars can be different sizes from original equipment ,but must be within 3% of OE tire (a. diameter of the tire), and they need to be within 1% (not to exceed b. the circumference) of each other to not cause problems.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Sorry for the confusion. As a,b,c are interrelated I use the term loosely.

    According to the experts at TireRack, the tires on xdrive cars can be different sizes from original equipment ,but must be within 3% of OE tire (a. diameter of the tire), and they need to be within 1% (not to exceed b. the circumference) of each other to not cause problems.
    very helpful, thank you for this.
    So the run flat I am looking at is within 3.32% of OE, while it's not 3%, I am wondering if I can get away with that (i.e. 3.32% difference)? I realize it may not be a black & white answer as I suspect there is noting magic about #5 vs. say 2.8% vs. say 3.2%.

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    From my research it seems that the most critical component is the % differences between the individual tires.

    According to TireRack:
    "Using "matched" tires means all four tires are the same brand, design and tread depth. Mixing tire brands, tread designs and tread depths may cause components in the vehicle's driveline to fail."

    This necessitates that four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles use tires that are very closely matched. This is because different diameter tires roll a different number of times each mile as a result of the variations in their circumferences. Tire diameter variations can be caused by accidentally using different sized tires, tires with different tread designs, tires made by different manufacturers, different inflation pressures or even tires worn to different tread depths.

    As an example of different tire diameters resulting from tires worn to different tread depths, we'll compare two 225/45R17-sized tires, a new tire with its original tread depth of 10/32-inch and a second tire worn to 8/32-inch of remaining tread depth. The new 225/45R17-sized tire has a calculated diameter of 24.97", a circumference of 78.44" and will roll 835 times each mile. The same tire worn to 8/32-inch of remaining tread depth is calculated to be 1/8" shorter with a diameter of 24.84", have a circumference of 78.04" and will roll 839 times per mile. While the difference of 1/8" in overall diameter doesn't seem excessive, the resulting 4 revolutions per mile difference can place a continuous strain on the tires and vehicle's driveline. Obviously, the greater the difference in the tires' circumferences, the greater the resulting strain.

    This makes maintaining the vehicle manufacturer's recommended tire inflation pressures and using "matched" tires on all wheel positions necessary procedures to reduce strain on the vehicle's driveline. Using "matched" tires means all four tires are the same brand, design and tread depth. Mixing tire brands, tread designs and tread depths may cause components in the vehicle's driveline to fail.

    Mismatched tires or using improper inflation pressures for all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive vehicles can also result in immediate drivability problems. Some Control Trac equipped vehicles in 4Auto mode may exhibit a shudder on acceleration and/or a noise from the front driveline and transfer case while driving. Some all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive vehicles may exhibit axle windup or binding while driving. Some four-wheel drive vehicles (manual or electronic shift) with a two-wheel drive mode may refuse to shift "on the fly" into 4x4 Auto or 4x4 High at highway speeds.
    Last edited by MIKYZZ4; 12-07-2018 at 04:35 PM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    From my research it seems that the most critical component is the % differences between the individual tires.

    According to TireRack:
    "Using "matched" tires means all four tires are the same brand, design and tread depth. Mixing tire brands, tread designs and tread depths may cause components in the vehicle's driveline to fail."

    This necessitates that four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles use tires that are very closely matched. This is because different diameter tires roll a different number of times each mile as a result of the variations in their circumferences. Tire diameter variations can be caused by accidentally using different sized tires, tires with different tread designs, tires made by different manufacturers, different inflation pressures or even tires worn to different tread depths.
    ........

    very helpful, thank you. I think this helps me make my decision. I'll go with the 245/50/R19 run flats. I don't like run flats, but with a sidewall that is a bit deeper (50 vs. 45), it may help stop the bending rims problem that these 7 series have that have 19" low profile tires and soft M series rims, and I will not have to give up trunk space by getting non run flats with a donut spare
    Last edited by MSQ; 12-09-2018 at 01:00 PM.

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    In most situations any 19" does not provide enough sidewall.
    I would switch to 245/50/R18 at the very least.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    In most situations any 19" does not provide enough sidewall.
    I would switch to 245/50/R18 at the very least.
    Yes, that's the challenge. I really like the original M-Sport 19" rims, but I am sick of them getting bent due to combination of 19" rims, soft metal, low profile tires.
    I think I'll try Plan B, the 245/50 on the 19's to see if that will help, if not then I'll have to look at another option.
    Total hassle in otherwise great car.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    In most situations any 19" does not provide enough sidewall.
    I would switch to 245/50/R18 at the very least.
    I ended up sticking with run flats in order to not give up trunk space.
    Rim straightening for two rims cost me $360 yesterday.
    I then had Michelin Primacy MXM4 ZP 245/50RF19's put on today. It turns out 245/50/19's are not a common size and can be a bit hard to find.
    Town Fair Tire price matched another web based supplies, which save me $150 or more per tire! (Run flats are crazy $$). If you have to have a run flat, I had read great reviews about the Michelin Primacy tires. Have not driven them on the highway yet, but on side roads the difference is already noticeably better than the Goodyear 245/45/R19's that were on the car.
    The 50 vs. 45 side wall does not take away from the cars looks/stance appreciably. I am hoping the beefier side walls will save me from a ~$400 bill and hassle each year of rim bending/straightening.
    If these save me from bending the rims and the ride on these Michelins is as good as it seems (given it's a run flat), then I think this is optimal solution.
    Side note: The BMW dealer told me that the 245/50/19's will fit but they may mess up my speedometer reading by the car thinking I am going ~1 mph or 2 mph slower than I am really going. Coincidentally I had compared my BMW speedometer with two separate phone app speedometers (one on Andoroid and a separate one on iPhone at the same time - and the 245/45/19's that were originally on the car always told me I was going 2 mph faster than either app registered. Now with the 245/50/19's the car speedo and the iPhone/Android speedo apps say exact same mph, so now I am wondering was the 245/45/19's overstating my speed by 2 mph and these new 245/50/19's are not, or is the iPhone and Android apps coincidentally off by 2 mph when comparing to the car with 245/45/19's on it.

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