Today I have gone through the process of removing the engine and trans from my 740. Bell housing bolt stripped so I had to buy a dremel and cut the head away which took 3 hours lol. Accidentally tore a power steering hose and nearly punched a whole in the condenser but now its finally out. I never realized how good the E32 is at hiding things, both engine mounts and the trans mount were bad and I never felt a vibration or heard thumping. Now onto the questions lol
The engine I am putting in is from an E34 a 540i Msport to be exact. So it already has the manual trans engine harness. On the E-box section of the harness there's 4 pieces I am unfamiliar with and wonder if you guys have the pinouts to be able to help. There's the big black what appears to be fuse holder with pins in only two spots in a fuse form that sends power to one of the relays, going with the assumption its a fuse holder what's the amperage on the guy? Going with the same piece following the wire theres a connector on the big red cable going to that fuse holder that is by itself colored red and white if I remember right (not the solid red leads providing power to everything) is this switched power, constant power/where does it come from?
Then there's a blue single pin connector with a brown ground wire going to it, is this switched ground and where from?
Then there's the white, from what I hear, manual trans connector its a 4 pin but 3 installed connector one wire being beige which I am guessing comes from the ABS/TCS module as theres an unplugged beige connector factory taped to its harness. Theres a black wire which I have no idea and another one that I cannot seem to remember.
Any help is appreciated.
New Daily:
2011 Audi A6 Avant 3.0T prestige. 1 of 368
----FOR SALE-----
04 BMW 325xi 143k
The Fun car:
94' BMW 740i 308k miles
Fresh 72k mile engine with all new seals. True E34 Manual Trans Engine Harness. 6spd Transmission Swap, Getrag 420G. RHD LW Single Mass Flywheel. E39 M5 Clutch. E39 M5 Shifter. Factory Car Phone. Factory 6CD Changer. Factory Electric Sunshade. Not So Factory Factory Electric/Heated Rear Seats. E38 Heater Valves. E43 M5 calipers/brakes
Sold:
1996 Oldsmobile Aurora; 194k miles but with a bad paint job and dented fender resulting in a payout to buy the 740i
After just getting the engine removed, IMG_20181002_160421.jpg the terrible mess that awaited inside the engine compartmentIMG_20180927_222641.jpg. After getting the new engine installed after a lot of persuasion.IMG_20181009_131826.jpg Having trouble trying to get the clutch line from the master cylinder to thread on.IMG_20181011_142856.jpg The second I can get it to catch the slightest bit I try and remove my hands to get the wrench in there and end up bumping the line and knocking it out of place. Anyone have any tricks or know of ways to get the line installed? Its the last piece keeping me from putting the transmission in the car and getting everything finalized.
New Daily:
2011 Audi A6 Avant 3.0T prestige. 1 of 368
----FOR SALE-----
04 BMW 325xi 143k
The Fun car:
94' BMW 740i 308k miles
Fresh 72k mile engine with all new seals. True E34 Manual Trans Engine Harness. 6spd Transmission Swap, Getrag 420G. RHD LW Single Mass Flywheel. E39 M5 Clutch. E39 M5 Shifter. Factory Car Phone. Factory 6CD Changer. Factory Electric Sunshade. Not So Factory Factory Electric/Heated Rear Seats. E38 Heater Valves. E43 M5 calipers/brakes
Sold:
1996 Oldsmobile Aurora; 194k miles but with a bad paint job and dented fender resulting in a payout to buy the 740i
I recall threading it onto the uninstalled cylinder and then feeding that partial assembly through the firewall. But that was with a single length of stainless line. Are you using the factory 2125-piece setup?
Factory wiring diagrams have pinout listings. http://www.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e34/
I got lost in your description of wiring. Got pics?
Last edited by moroza; 10-13-2018 at 03:51 PM.
I hoped that wouldn't be the case, trying to hold the master cylinder in place to get the bolts in there was hard enough as it is with the pipe going up to the reservoir.
I went out just now and took pictures of all the plugs that I don't know. I appreciate the link for the wiring diagrams. Part of my issue is finding the connector numbers lol.
These are the two plugs i was talking about the blue one is just a brown wire which knowing BMW is a ground and likely switched but where.IMG_20181013_165909.jpg This is the one that looked like a fuse.IMG_20181013_165054.jpgThis is the wire that goes into the left side of the "fuse holder." I think I remember seeing somewhere this was for a cooling fan which would make it pointless for me.IMG_20181013_165105.jpg
New Daily:
2011 Audi A6 Avant 3.0T prestige. 1 of 368
----FOR SALE-----
04 BMW 325xi 143k
The Fun car:
94' BMW 740i 308k miles
Fresh 72k mile engine with all new seals. True E34 Manual Trans Engine Harness. 6spd Transmission Swap, Getrag 420G. RHD LW Single Mass Flywheel. E39 M5 Clutch. E39 M5 Shifter. Factory Car Phone. Factory 6CD Changer. Factory Electric Sunshade. Not So Factory Factory Electric/Heated Rear Seats. E38 Heater Valves. E43 M5 calipers/brakes
Sold:
1996 Oldsmobile Aurora; 194k miles but with a bad paint job and dented fender resulting in a payout to buy the 740i
Another issue now lol. I managed to get my friend to get the clutch lines installed and tightened on the master cylinder so that is taken care of. Anyhow, tried to install the transmission yesterday and got it all up and in the car and managed to twist it completely sideways as I don't have a trans jack. Not easy to deal with.
Now for the issue, being the trans came from an E39 it has the E39 trans mount. Not a big deal I thought, I unbolted it and took it off. Then I tried to take the trans mount from my automatic and bolt it on to no avail. I then called it a night and tried to lookup parts numbers and stuff. The E39 420g uses a different part number being it has the spot for the crank sensor in the bell housing and uses a different fluid (yet mine has the label for the older fluid, need info on this). But I looked up parts numbers under the E34 6spd and saw it is supposed to use the same transmission mount as the 740i automatic. The issue is the mounts are too far off to slot in to the metal mount. I looked up pictures of the E39 vs E34 6spd and the mounts sit at the same angle. Is there something I am missing?
New Daily:
2011 Audi A6 Avant 3.0T prestige. 1 of 368
----FOR SALE-----
04 BMW 325xi 143k
The Fun car:
94' BMW 740i 308k miles
Fresh 72k mile engine with all new seals. True E34 Manual Trans Engine Harness. 6spd Transmission Swap, Getrag 420G. RHD LW Single Mass Flywheel. E39 M5 Clutch. E39 M5 Shifter. Factory Car Phone. Factory 6CD Changer. Factory Electric Sunshade. Not So Factory Factory Electric/Heated Rear Seats. E38 Heater Valves. E43 M5 calipers/brakes
Sold:
1996 Oldsmobile Aurora; 194k miles but with a bad paint job and dented fender resulting in a payout to buy the 740i
It's implausible that the 6-speed uses the same trans [s]mount[/s] (EDIT: I meant "crossmember") as the automatic; the latter transmission is a good bit longer, and the trans tunnel is narrower back there. When I did my swap I remember determining that the E34 6-speed mount is unique. I'm also under the impression that E34 and E32 are identical for crossmember fitment.
E39 420g is identical to E34 420g for trans mount purposes. I had an E39 trans with E34 crossmember and it fit perfectly.
Last edited by moroza; 10-20-2018 at 02:54 PM.
You are correct, the e39 420g is different in that it has the sensor mount but that doesn't matter for use in the e34/e32.
The actual rubber mounts are the same part number for the 740 auto and e34 6speed, but the aluminum crossmember is different. It's because of exactly what moroza said - the tunnel is narrower at the point where the 5hp30 auto mounts to the chassis. I'm almost positive that the sheet metal in the trans tunnel is the same between e34 and e32. You'll notice the e32 tunnel has many threaded mounting points on the chassis for various transmissions. The e34 6speed mount *should* line up with the corresponding holes. I say should because I haven't tried it on my e32 yet, but I'm getting close to that point in my manual swap.
Last edited by m60power; 10-19-2018 at 08:33 PM.
Glad to hear I am not totally screwed lol. 420g's are hard to come by and expensive at that (took me quite a while to talk the guy into selling his to me and it was only because he liked my project). I found the part number for the cross member and see I can order one for $65 on ECS. Going to order that after I pull the trans and scrap my crown Victoria, the project that never began. Then I need to have the driveshaft taken care of, after that I can actually drive my car again.
Side note: Brake fluid is cheapest at the dealership cost me $40/gallon for very similar spec to Pentosin DOT4/LV but literally half the price.
New Daily:
2011 Audi A6 Avant 3.0T prestige. 1 of 368
----FOR SALE-----
04 BMW 325xi 143k
The Fun car:
94' BMW 740i 308k miles
Fresh 72k mile engine with all new seals. True E34 Manual Trans Engine Harness. 6spd Transmission Swap, Getrag 420G. RHD LW Single Mass Flywheel. E39 M5 Clutch. E39 M5 Shifter. Factory Car Phone. Factory 6CD Changer. Factory Electric Sunshade. Not So Factory Factory Electric/Heated Rear Seats. E38 Heater Valves. E43 M5 calipers/brakes
Sold:
1996 Oldsmobile Aurora; 194k miles but with a bad paint job and dented fender resulting in a payout to buy the 740i
Good stuff! I bought a new e34 540 420g cross member as well. FYI, GetBMWParts and TheBMWMiniPartStore always have cheaper prices than ECS Tuning for genuine BMW parts, but their free shipping threshold is higher than ECS. It usually comes out cheaper from those two if your total order is over ~$100. For example, the 540 cross member is $60.25 on GetBMWParts.
Last edited by m60power; 10-19-2018 at 11:14 PM.
I ordered the cross member last Friday should be here pretty soon. Got the transmission installed. However I just noticed the E39 shifter is a different too, oof. Parts for an E34 shifter is something like $200 and unfortunately I do not have any more money to finish the car. I would love to sell my E46 to get rid of the burden of a car payment and daily my E32 again so I can get above the $20 to spare a month but unfortunately I cant finish the 7. Driving across town to get to class every day really sucks the buck from the wallet even with 26 MPG avg in the E46. (E32 got about that highway if not higher thanks to E38 injectors)
New Daily:
2011 Audi A6 Avant 3.0T prestige. 1 of 368
----FOR SALE-----
04 BMW 325xi 143k
The Fun car:
94' BMW 740i 308k miles
Fresh 72k mile engine with all new seals. True E34 Manual Trans Engine Harness. 6spd Transmission Swap, Getrag 420G. RHD LW Single Mass Flywheel. E39 M5 Clutch. E39 M5 Shifter. Factory Car Phone. Factory 6CD Changer. Factory Electric Sunshade. Not So Factory Factory Electric/Heated Rear Seats. E38 Heater Valves. E43 M5 calipers/brakes
Sold:
1996 Oldsmobile Aurora; 194k miles but with a bad paint job and dented fender resulting in a payout to buy the 740i
I am not opposed to this actually, just need to get measurements to get it as accurate as possible as do some cutting. If it were an irreplaceable part I wouldn't but being it is I don't mind too much. Got the cross member in today and it worked perfectly.
Last edited by yukon101; 11-02-2018 at 09:15 PM.
New Daily:
2011 Audi A6 Avant 3.0T prestige. 1 of 368
----FOR SALE-----
04 BMW 325xi 143k
The Fun car:
94' BMW 740i 308k miles
Fresh 72k mile engine with all new seals. True E34 Manual Trans Engine Harness. 6spd Transmission Swap, Getrag 420G. RHD LW Single Mass Flywheel. E39 M5 Clutch. E39 M5 Shifter. Factory Car Phone. Factory 6CD Changer. Factory Electric Sunshade. Not So Factory Factory Electric/Heated Rear Seats. E38 Heater Valves. E43 M5 calipers/brakes
Sold:
1996 Oldsmobile Aurora; 194k miles but with a bad paint job and dented fender resulting in a payout to buy the 740i
A friend of mine modified the e39 linkage to work in his e34. Its too long, correct? From what i remember, they just need to be shortened. Either find someone that can weld aluminum or fashion a bracket to adhere the two halved together when shortened. I believe he made two plates and drilled two holes across the support arm. Two bolts and it was good to go. Same process goes for the actual shift selector rod. This ones steel.
borrow money to finish the e32, sell the e46, return money to borrowee, good to go.
Edit: should have read Govee's post. Yes, this is what im talking about.
-Alex
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