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Thread: 92 325is Turbo Drift Build

  1. #1
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    92 325is Turbo Drift Build

    Hey guys, so I switched up my drift cars. I was drifting a 95 m3 but decided it was to clean to rip it completely apart so i picked up this 325is with a turbo kit on it (looks to be mostly ebay parts), I will be continuing to drift the m3 until this ones done as I don't want to miss any seat time. Its not in that bad of shape, it does have some surface rust here and there but nothing major. I talked to the guy that built it originally and found all the YouTube videos of him building it. He sold it to some kid that didn't know anything and completely destroyed the car. With that being said I got it for a complete steal so I had to pick it up.

    The car has:
    M50B25NV
    ARP Head Studs
    Stage 2 FX racing Clutch
    UUC DSSR Short Shifter

    CX Racing Top Mount
    CX Racing Aluminum Radiator
    BorgWarner 72mm Turbo
    Ebay 44mm Wastegate
    KDFI Standalone ECU
    Emusa Intercooler & piping
    Turbosmart adjustable BOV
    Siemens Deka 630cc injectors
    Innovate IC2 Wideband AFR Controller


    I need to replace a lot of the suspension parts as the kid put cheap raceland coils that are blown, one even blew out the top hat and is just sitting in the wheel well. I'll also probably be replacing the turbo & wastegate. I would like to swap trans to a ZF but unsure if i'll do that right away or wait for the Getrag to blow while drifting.

    It has an apparent "fuel issue" something to due with the relay I was told. Will be doing a compression test tonight and testing the relay. If the motor is blown I found a really good deal on a M50B25 & ZF (w/ unknown miles) and harness.
    2 of the ignition wires are a little burnt because they let them sit on the turbo exhaust pipe.... so I might have to replace the whole engine wiring harness.

    With that said I got a lot to go and will try to keep this thread updated, as I failed to do so with my M3 drift thread lol.



    1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg

    (Intercooler piping was taken off in the engine bay picture, it was also raining when unloading the car so that's why the engine bay is wet.)
    Last edited by M3NACE2SOCIETY; 06-02-2018 at 02:08 PM.

  2. #2
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    Update: Compression test: 1:120 2:150 3:120 4:120 5:100 6:145. Also figured out the DME wasn't sending a ground signal to the fuel pump relay, but it was sending 12V. The main relay was fine, fuel pump relay fine, fuel pump fine. Maybe bad DME?

  3. #3
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    Update: So the still not getting power to the fuel pump, again confirmed the pump was fine by running power straight to it.

    Correct me if I'm wrong but it should go - ignition switch -> DME -> DME Relay -> Fuel Pump Relay -> Fuse 18 -> Fuel Pump.
    So somewhere in between the DME to fuel pump there's something not activating.

    Going to do more readings on the relays tonight to make sure everything is reading correct.

  4. #4
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    1985 535i
    Possibly. Check continuity on fuel pump power wire and then fuel pump ground. How did you apply power to the pump? Straight at the pump with another 12v source? Or did you jumper the fuel pump relay? If you have continuity, confirmed 12v power, and no ground I would assume bad DME. But if that's the only thing wrong with the DME just rebuild the fuel pump wiring and separate it from the DME. Just run independent 12v, ground, relay, and fuse, then run it through a switch. I had to do that on my old turbo e28 as the fuel pump circuit burned up on my megasquirt.

  5. #5
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    Jrcanes55: Thanks for the reply. I ran straight 12v to the fuel pump. I tried jumping the fuel pump relay and nothing happened. I will check the continuity on fuel pump power wire & ground tonight. I'm thinking I might just have to run it independently. Will update tonight.

  6. #6
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    Sorry for the late update. Had an event at the local track so I was prepping the m3 and getting ready for that. Couldn’t miss the seat time. Checked continuity on the fuel pump ground and it was good. Checked for power to the fuel pump and have nothing. Ended up figuring out that power is not getting sent to fuse 18. Checked continuity on fuse 18 and pin 87 of fuel relay and it was good. I’m going to check power on pin 13 on the x20. Also going to check the continuity from the fuel relay socket to pin 13 (X20).

  7. #7
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    Continuity was good from fuel relay to the top half of pin 13 on the x20. It was bad on the bottom half of pin 13 on the x20. So I’m losing continuity from pin 13 to the fuse. Might try to splice the wires directly to one another and bypass the x20 pins.
    Last edited by M3NACE2SOCIETY; 06-11-2018 at 09:54 AM.

  8. #8
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    Update: I jumped the wires past the x20 and now the pump turns on with the ignition! Must be a bad connection between the male and female connector on the x20 harness.

  9. #9
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    Noticed one of the fuel pump sending unit nozzles was broken off. Might be a good excuse to go fuel cell. Or just replace the sending unit.

    IMG008.jpg

  10. #10
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    Well I was ripping out the carpet last night and found some rust holes going completely through the front of the floor panels where your feet sit on the drivers side. Didn't get a good look at the passenger side yet. I'll upload some photos tonight. Not sure how I want to proceed at this moment now. Either cut out the rust and replace the with some 18-16 GA sheet metal or I guess source a cleaner shell.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    I've got a decent hole that I found in my passenger rear tub. Honestly, it doesn't let water in right now, so I haven't done anything about it. I suppose I will likely just cut it out eventually, and rivet in some license plates or sheet metal or something.

  12. #12
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    Heres just the drivers side cancer. Was a lot worse than I initially thought.
    IMG_1709.jpgIMG_1711.jpgIMG_1712.jpgIMG_1713.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #13
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    Parting this one out/selling as whole. Hopefully have a cleaner start somewhere else.

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