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Heard from several people that the air flow isn’t ideal to promote cooling. Has anyone installed heat extractors on the hood. These M3 vents may not work without some modifications.
I don't like all that stuff on top of my hood, so here is what I did: Cut a slit across the hump with an angle grinder (17" long). Pushed down the area behind the slot. Cut a piece of wire-mesh to fit and glued it in with grey-silicone. It's fast, easy, cheap, and keeps the lines of the car as much as possible. Sure, it's not pure as stock, but I think better than adding stuff on. I think it's in the right place for airflow, far enough in front of the windshield, and on the least-sloped part of the hood. When I've parked hot, and the aftermarket fan is still blowing, (I've got it wired to do that), lots of hot air comes out that slot.
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Good idea.
Anyone tried this hood? Potential weight savings along with vents. Just curious how the figment was.
http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/Ext...107182/902812/
I used vents from trackspec which I believe are the same ones that the OP showed made for an e36 which work very well. Combined with the Mishimoto radiator my coolant temp stays between 165 and 170F once up to speed on track on even the hottest days and my electric fan only kicks in when I come into the paddock, I have no mechanical fan or shrouding on the radiator. The vents clear everything under hood with no issues.
Not stock but not bad looking IMO
Replacement hoods are pretty readily available used since all z3's (roadsters and coupes) use the same.
So if I were going to do this on a collectible Z3 I'd just buy a used hood, cut out the holes for the vents have it painted to match, install the vents then put on the car and stash the original. The hood is easy to remove and install on the car.
The vents could even be bead blasted then painted to match the body color if desired.
Last edited by CMM3; 05-31-2018 at 12:03 PM.
God that looks fucking amazing. I’m sold.
If you weld a small platform just in front of your car, all you need is a power converter to be able to install a refrigerator onto that platform and power it. Leave the door open to keep nice cold air going through your radiator all day. Problem solved in an elegant and classy way.
Hmm, I keep telling the wife that we need a shed for lawn equipment. My real excuse is that I'd rather hang car stuff on the garage walls than trimmers, the mower and yard equipment. Now I just need a shed to hold the lawn equipment, the hardtop when not in use, the (8) spare wheels that I keep relocating and now a spare hood.
Hmmm.....
Is it just me, or do they kind of look like plantation shutters?
http://trackspecmotorsports.com/bmw-...de-louvers-kit
Last edited by s8ilver; 05-31-2018 at 03:07 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
With all of the talk about reducing the engine bay heat has anybody (or everybody?) removed the insulation on the underside of the hood? And what effect did that have? I assume the installation of hood venting required removing the insulation?
Thanks,
Andy
Is the insulation for noise or heat? The E-type I owned had blistered paint around the louvers of the bonnet when I bought the car, but the paint was old and thick. Once repainted, the paint did not blister, but the metal above the exhaust manifold sure did get hot. I'm betting the insulation on the underside of hoods of modern cars if for noise.
Wayne
1998 M Roadster
1994 Honda ST1100--sold
2017 Yamaha FJR1300ES
I live in AZ. I always remove that insulation pad under the hood. I have not measured any diff in heat, but it would have to help a little.
I had seen pics of OEM BMW hood vents installed in BMW Z3, don't remember from which BMW they were, but they matched better round z3 lines than squared ones in previous comments.
If you need some measurements to get an idea of where to place them let me know. I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out the best location. I think it ended up being ideal as the leading edge of the vents is directly over the back edge of the radiator.
With a solid hood you can think of the hot air trapped inside under the hood like a bubble. The top of the hood is a low pressure area so the vents allow the heat to escape and air passing over the hood help draw it out.
Ill take you up on the measurements. I’m going to try to buy these soon without the wife knowing. What wing do you have. I was looking at APR wings.
Thanks CMM3
I got some rough measurements for you. It's kind of difficult since there are no sharp edges to work from. I used the side edges and the grill on the hood along with the edges of the grill as reference points. Keep in mind that the hole you'll need to cut in the hood will be slightly smaller since there is a lip on the vents so the opening does not have to be perfect.
The edges are shown by the edges of the blue tape:
The leading edge of the vent to the grill in the inside corner measures 10-3/4"
The front corner edge of the vent on the outside to the line in the hood measures 3-1/2"
The rear corner edge of the vent on the outside to the line in the hood measures 3-1/8"
I found this placement avoided the hump in the middle of the hood and the most curved part of the hood allowing the vents to lay pretty flat. I measured before cutting with the grills out and the hood entirely covered in blue tape to try and get both the same and more accurate measurements.
What's showing is not exact but it should provide a reasonable starting point.
Thanks I’ll post up when I get these ordered.
I haven't measured any before and after temps, but I removed part #5 in hopes to help with heat extraction.
-Phil
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Just receive the templates. Left or right?
They look OK side to side but you may want to think about moving them forward by several inches. I think placing the front edge of the vents closer to the back edge of the radiator will help draw more hot air from the radiator out.
which vent did you end up buying they look much different than the trackspec ones I got.
Last edited by CMM3; 06-14-2018 at 11:33 AM.
Going to try to buy them today. I’ll be using your measurements to pinpoint the location. I just used the two different templates to see which looked better.
Yes, cooling is a big deal. I'm in AZ, where one has to climb steep hills at 115 degree temps. As far as (courage) goes, the front of the hood was damaged in a small accident, which let me rationalize doing this. It will need re-paint when I finish fixing it. (On a previous car, 300zxtt, I bought a spare hood to mess with). Also, I figure the hood is there to serve me, not me to serve the hood. I'm much more interested in fun driving (read: without worrying about heat), than keeping the car looking stock. Also, it's not as dramatic as cutting a big hole to install aftermarket fins. If I really wanted to, I could take out the grill piece, push the metal back into place, repair the cut, and be back to stock. ..... I also modified the M bumper cover, (see here if you want to: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...d-for-air-flow ). I will be posting more pics as I proceed.
Last edited by zellamay; 06-18-2018 at 02:27 PM.
+1 It's not worth owning a car if you can't drive it, IMO.
I took a look at your post on how you modified your bumper and since you're brave and not afraid of the the wrath of purist you'd probably benefit from adding front spoiler. Even a small one that doesn't extend far forward would help prevent air from going under the car and improve on air being deflected up and into the radiator. I made mine out of 1/8" marine grade plywood (it's very light and strong) covered with a layer of s-glass, painted it black with several button head bolts and nuts securing it to the bumper. The black curved piece is just thin Carbon Fiber veneer that is doubled sided taped to the spoiler and held in place to the bumper with 5 or 6 small screws and nuts.
Last edited by CMM3; 06-18-2018 at 03:33 PM.
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