Hello all! Fairly new here, posted/thread started a couple times, but this will be my first thread that I plan to update and keep up to date as I progress in my summer project. I purchased most of the parts already, just sitting in the garage waiting to go in! I'll do my best to keep everyone updated with pictures and progress once things get completed.
The Car - 2001 540i/6 with 100k miles on the clock. Already did a full M5 drivetrain swap (Driveshaft, Diff and Axles). Below is the list of things I plan on doing.
- Pull engine with transmission [COMPLETED]
- Timing chain guides and chains (everything else that's "in there" (oil separator, tensioners, etc.)) [PURCHASED]
- Complete reseal of all gaskets and o-rings [PURCHASED]
- Replace a couple of "cheap" sensors (oil pressure, coolant level, etc.) [PURCHASED]
- Replace Oil pump, Chain, Sprocket [PURCHASED]
- Reseal/build VANOS units
- Replace Engine/Tranmission mounts [PURCHASED]
- Replace all pulleys, tensioners, belts [PURCHASED]
- Replace clutch (undecided about a lightweight flywheel+clutch kit)
- Replace all power steering lines and reservoir [PURCHASED]
- Replace Centerlink and tie rods [PURCHASED]
- Eibach sway bars (front and rear)
- Zionsville Radiator, shroud and eletric fan upgrade
- M60 Intake manifold [PURCHASED]
- BC Racing Coilovers [PURCHASED]
- Send heads to machine shop (new springs and valve stem seals)
Not sure if I want to touch the block (crank/pistons) although I am replacing front and rear main seals.
Possible upgrades, maybe in the future after I finish the above
- Schmiedmann Headers (undecided how I would run rest of exhaust)
- VFE Supercharger
Planning on this taking me a few months as I still need to order some parts. Looking for any and all suggestions, tips, etc.
Last edited by Roxie; 06-14-2018 at 09:19 AM.
Sounds like a fun time! I wouldn’t bother with the head work though, these engines aren’t known for wearing out springs or valve stem seals, the valve stem seals are only an issue on the N62/N63 motors. I’ve pulled heads with 249k miles that looked fine, so I think you’re okay at 100k miles.
1995 525i 5-speed - Thread
Looking forward to it, lots of pictures please!
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2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
On some cars with looser tolerances it's a valid point, but the M62tu heads are actually really solid. A lot of guys on here have superchargers on theirs with higher miles and no head work. Given that you have just 100k miles, I wouldn't worry about it. If you want to play it safe, do a compression and leakdown test to make sure everything is where it should be, and if everything looks fine then I'd leave the heads on.
1995 525i 5-speed - Thread
No need to do the head work as Danny said. My car has 167k on it now with the last 35k being supercharged. No issues at all with the heads or anything. Block has never been opened. I just did timing chains and associated gaskets at around 120K. My car runs great.
Also, no need to do the oil pump unless its all scored up inside. Mine looked like new when I took it out just ot have a peek at its insides.
98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!
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FWIW, some will read "full drivetrain" as more than just the diff stuff... I know technically you're correct, but... seems like gearhead laymen use for a 'drivetrain swap' they guy 9 times out of 10 means "motor and tranny and the whole shootin' match". Seems to be one of those "industry" vs "hobbyist" things... colloquial use - aka hobbyists don't say "Powertrain" too often...
Yeah, I would NOT EVEN THINK about worrying about the heads unless you have some real evidence otherwise. I would almost call them bulletproof. Valvetrains are super robust, aside from the documented VANOS issues... the only blown heads we see are crazy abuse situations. I mean if you were going crazy build and wanted stiffer springs in there or something, that'd be one thing, but, that doesn't seem on the agenda in this case.
I love LWFW myself but there's people all over the map on that. If you're sensie about noise at idle and stop lights and whatnot... you won't want it. Driveability of the LWFW is fine, on this motor it doesn't make the car tricky to launch or anything, and it makes the revs WAY more satisfying than the big ol' DMFW boat anchor. As long as you don't pick a crazy clutch you adapt to the drivability in about 5 minutes.
With all the stuff you're doing, you probably want to put an M5 steering box in when the engine is out. Transforms the steering pretty well.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I've read a couple times that the flywheel (DM) needs to go on the same way it came off, so its "timed correctly" with the starter if i understand correctly. Does this also correlate to the (LWFW)? Also do you have any recommendations on LWFW+Clutch setup? JB Racing, UUC?
Yes there’s a locator pin. Guys have bolted up FWs wrong anyway but if you’re half not retarded then it’s pretty easy to get right. Not remotely related to starter, it’s abiut crank timing. The FW provides the crank position shutters that the sensor reads back to the DME. Can’t use the M5 FW cuz it’s timing is off by some amount.
JBR LWFW 100x out of 100.
Clutches are different story. Lotta things you can try, ideally make sure it’s sprung hub clutch disk. I like my Spec 2+ but might go for 3 if I had to do over again because this Kevlar one is just a little squeaky when cold. Holds rock solid though.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
My as well add the M5 rear traction rods too.
2001 540 M-Sport (cdn), ST X (KW) coilovers, H&R 15mm spacers, Eibach anti roll bars (28mm/18mm), Beastpower rear antiroll bar brackets, M5 rear chassis reinforcements (traction rods), Strong Strut front upper strut bar, Dinan Stage 1 software, factory M-Audio subs, Bavsound speaker upgrade, Bluebus bluetooth integration, Stop Tech SS brake lines, ATE coated brake rotors, ATE ceramic brake pads.
Hey guys, sorry I haven't posted in a bit, been busy with work and just the normal life stuff. Finally got around to starting the project this past weekend. I completely forgot about taking pictures until I took the headlights and front bumper off lol.
So this was the start on Saturday (6/9/18)
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Bumper just got replaced and painted about a month ago, It has been be properly wrapped and stowed away until job is completed, just put it here along with my old one for the day.
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My buddy that I am borrowing the hoist and engine stand from finally called me around lunch time and I went to go pick them up!
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So I took a few more things apart before I called it a day, had to run out later in the afternoon to take care of some other things. So this is where I ended up at the end of the day on Saturday.
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Started Sunday morning with the engine harness removal. Got everything disconnected from the front/top of motor, then I slid underneath and disconnected everything from the transmission and the O2 sensors. Taped and marked all sensors just to avoid the headache of installation.
7.jpg
While I was underneath, I went ahead removed the exhaust (cat back). Only disconnected the driveshaft from the transmission. After this I removed my shifter.
This is just some of the crap I took out of the car, making friends with the fresh set of BC's that are going in once the motor is back in.
8.jpg
At this point I was just double/triple checking my work to see if I disconnected everything so she would come out smoothly. Only real problem I ran into was header clearance. About halfway out I had to disconnect the driver's side exhaust manifold because it was hitting the steering column. Once I removed that, she came out nicely
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As of now, Thursday (6/14/18) I am waiting on my "special BMW T60" socket so I can take my flywheel off so I can mount the motor on a stand rather than floating on a hoist. So everything is in my garage waiting patiently for me to start tearing down. Today I plan on going to the hardware store to pick up a couple bolts/washers for the stand. Socket should be here tomorrow so hopefully after work we can get things rolling!
Great progress!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
Might as well change the upper oil pan gasket too. The front part will probably break off when you remove the lower timing cover.
Hello Roxie
Just read this thread,,,curious how it progressed and if youre finished with it. Thnx
B M Whooplay
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