Jerry's car project

[Jerry Scholder]

Agreed, that gasket extends too much above the surface, I would check again. You probably dont need to remove the upper cover for it, just loosen the bolts a bit. It should stick out max a millimeter or less, otherwise you will have oil leak there.

Also agreeing with Ruski, it shouldnt line up perfectly because of the new gaskets. Double check those gaskets, something is not right there.

I have no reference of what it should look like as I've never seen it right or wrong before. It appears the upper cover bolts need to be loosened and then if I push the upper cover down....this is a case of "I don't know what I don't know". I haven't seen anything that shows the procedure and what it should look

like. Are the two black gasket pieces that line up supposed to be flush and not stick up over the ? (name).IMG_7519.JPGcover alignment.jpg

[Jerry Scholder]

I have no reference of what it should look like as I've never seen it right or wrong before. It appears the upper cover bolts need to be loosened and then if I push the upper cover down....this is a case of "I don't know what I don't know". I haven't seen anything that shows the procedure and what it should look

like. Are the two black gasket pieces that line up supposed to be flush and not stick up over the ? (name).IMG_7519.JPGcover alignment.jpg

O.K. I think I understand: the new gasket on the upper cover is the one that is sticking up. The only cover that can adjust is the upper cover, so if I somehow using the double washer method push down on the upper cover the gasket in question will lower to flush with the other side. Duh...

[Jerry Scholder]

Also odd that the gasket extends above the surface of the cover. The valve cover pushes both the gasket and upper cover down into
position, both flush. That gasket looks 'stretched' upwards... just my opinion.

You are absolutely right; I will address this. One other subject please: I've attached pictures of the drivers side timing chain guide and the passenger side guide. As you may note, the guide on the drivers side is pushing the chain up a little right now. Will this automatically adjust itself when started?

[Jerry Scholder]

Kind of curious if I was right or not about the valve cover alignment on 2001 740i? Or I'll loosen the top timing cover bolts and use the double washer method to push it down hopefully and report back.

[georgebest]

I'm more concerned about the side where it's not pushing it up the chain. Is that the old tensioner? It should be definitely pushing the chain up, has a spring in it.

[Ruskii]

The driver's side seems to be pushing down -- the tensioners push in reverse from each other, i.e. one will push up while the other will push down. Maybe that's why you think it's not pushing, because you don't see both pistons pushing UP on both sides. Just confirm that you have tension on the chain.

[georgebest]

The driver's side seems to be pushing down -- the tensioners push in reverse from each other, i.e. one will push up while the other will push down. Maybe that's why you think it's not pushing, because you don't see both pistons pushing UP on both sides. Just confirm that you have tension on the chain.

I didnt notice that, good to know! I thought both should be pushing up, but now clear from the picture that's not the case.

[Jerry Scholder]

Quick update on progress of 2001 740i. Nearly everything re-installed. Have to put oil, coolant and p/s fluids in before starting. Had some trouble remembering where the hose and wiring organizing clips went and one other part I put on another forum a question of where it goes on the passenger side radiator. Also don't have tool to tighten radiator fan and there is no room to squeeze in a 1 and 1/4 wrench and screwdriver for cheating. While putting back MAF the bottom connection off the air filter was impossible to reach the screw to tighten the connection. Not a big deal but a real pain. Front drivers side tire back splash was brittle and I found a used one to replace it. Soon, I'll be asking for any last things to check before starting it.

[TheAngryBear]

The fan is opposite threading so it will tighten itself on start.
Double check your grounds and connections. Often issues with missing one or two.
Depending on how long it’s been, prime the oil and fuel pump.


2001 750iL DD74441
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

[georgebest]

Quick update on progress of 2001 740i. Nearly everything re-installed. Have to put oil, coolant and p/s fluids in before starting. Had some trouble remembering where the hose and wiring organizing clips went and one other part I put on another forum a question of where it goes on the passenger side radiator. Also don't have tool to tighten radiator fan and there is no room to squeeze in a 1 and 1/4 wrench and screwdriver for cheating. While putting back MAF the bottom connection off the air filter was impossible to reach the screw to tighten the connection. Not a big deal but a real pain. Front drivers side tire back splash was brittle and I found a used one to replace it. Soon, I'll be asking for any last things to check before starting it.

Showtime soon! Dont worry about the fan, let's see if it's starting up first. You can put it on after that.
Have you turned the engine by hand, just to make sure you got everything right? Better you do it then the starter. Also, dont forget to remove the flywheel pin.
Good luck!

[Jerry Scholder]

Showtime soon! Dont worry about the fan, let's see if it's starting up first. You can put it on after that.
Have you turned the engine by hand, just to make sure you got everything right? Better you do it then the starter. Also, dont forget to remove the flywheel pin.
Good luck!

Have the fan on; just not tight yet. I was able to thread it by hand; unfortunately, I can't unthread by hand as the nut won't turn. I ordered the proper tool. I haven't turned the engine by hand yet; good tip. I did turn it by hand after putting the new guides and timing chains on and all seemed to be O.K.

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The fan is opposite threading so it will tighten itself on start.
Double check your grounds and connections. Often issues with missing one or two.
Depending on how long it’s been, prime the oil and fuel pump.


2001 750iL DD74441
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

I'm a bit skeptical that the fan can be tightened by just starting the car. Would hate to see fan parts everywhere when it comes loose. I did order the proper tool.
I have to research turning the engine by hand; and priming the oil and fuel pump. Never have done either of these tasks.

[TheAngryBear]

Have the fan on; just not tight yet. I was able to thread it by hand; unfortunately, I can't unthread by hand as the nut won't turn. I ordered the proper tool. I haven't turned the engine by hand yet; good tip. I did turn it by hand after putting the new guides and timing chains on and all seemed to be O.K.

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I'm a bit skeptical that the fan can be tightened by just starting the car. Would hate to see fan parts everywhere when it comes loose. I did order the proper tool.
I have to research turning the engine by hand; and priming the oil and fuel pump. Never have done either of these tasks.

The fan tightens to the left, the engine spins to the right. Just like an impact tool it is going to give a “jolt” at start basically getting it to torque. When stopping the fan is allowed to continue rotating thus bleeding the energy that would “unscrew” it.

The oil pump is basically by turning by hand (a lot) or cranking but not allowing spark (either pull plugs or fuse for fuel pump).
Fuel pump just key position 2 and see if there is air in the rail. Air should naturally be forced/bled out.
Of those two oil is the more important.
You could even wet the cylinders when turning by hand or cranking, just don’t overdo it. Main concern here is that if it has been long enough and they are “dry” you could score your walls.


2001 750iL DD74441
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

[Jerry Scholder]

The fan tightens to the left, the engine spins to the right. Just like an impact tool it is going to give a “jolt” at start basically getting it to torque. When stopping the fan is allowed to continue rotating thus bleeding the energy that would “unscrew” it.

The oil pump is basically by turning by hand (a lot) or cranking but not allowing spark (either pull plugs or fuse for fuel pump).
Fuel pump just key position 2 and see if there is air in the rail. Air should naturally be forced/bled out.
Of those two oil is the more important.
You could even wet the cylinders when turning by hand or cranking, just don’t overdo it. Main concern here is that if it has been long enough and they are “dry” you could score your walls.


2001 750iL DD74441
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

Your explanation sounds convincing; why all the fuss about the tools needed to hold the nut and water pump clutch; is it just for loosening? It's been sitting for almost a year, so yeah, I'll need to prime it. I will pull fuse for the fuel pump. Great advice; Thanks.

[Jerry Scholder]

The fan tightens to the left, the engine spins to the right. Just like an impact tool it is going to give a “jolt” at start basically getting it to torque. When stopping the fan is allowed to continue rotating thus bleeding the energy that would “unscrew” it.

The oil pump is basically by turning by hand (a lot) or cranking but not allowing spark (either pull plugs or fuse for fuel pump).
Fuel pump just key position 2 and see if there is air in the rail. Air should naturally be forced/bled out.
Of those two oil is the more important.
You could even wet the cylinders when turning by hand or cranking, just don’t overdo it. Main concern here is that if it has been long enough and they are “dry” you could score your walls. Would disconnecting the fuse pump relay achieve the same results if pulling the fuse? I looked at a lot of comments and most refer to the relay and not the fuse?


2001 750iL DD74441
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

Saw this quote in an earlier post; what do you think? ("I assume the fuel pump has a fuse and/or relay. Pull it. it will crank but not start. However Project5 makes a good point. It's probably better to just start it and let the pressure build up. Years ago I knew a mechanical engineer that installed an aux oil pump with heater so he could circulate warm oil before cranking in the winter.")__________________

[TheAngryBear]

I tend to play it safe and would prefer to take the extra time to see if anything failed in the interim. I did mine over a weekend so I didn’t have to worry about components failing while not being used.
After a year (think that is what you said), what is another hour to prime the individual components to ensure it is all working and lubed?
Fuel pump: you can go relay, fuse, etc.


2001 750iL DD74441
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

[Ruskii]

Coming up on the finish line, Jerry!

[georgebest]

Saw this quote in an earlier post; what do you think? ("I assume the fuel pump has a fuse and/or relay. Pull it. it will crank but not start. However Project5 makes a good point. It's probably better to just start it and let the pressure build up. Years ago I knew a mechanical engineer that installed an aux oil pump with heater so he could circulate warm oil before cranking in the winter.")__________________

I have never done this and have had no issues, but my engine was only apart for a few weeks max.

[Jerry Scholder]

I tend to play it safe and would prefer to take the extra time to see if anything failed in the interim. I did mine over a weekend so I didn’t have to worry about components failing while not being used.
After a year (think that is what you said), what is another hour to prime the individual components to ensure it is all working and lubed?
Fuel pump: you can go relay, fuse, etc.


2001 750iL DD74441
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

I'm right with you on that thought. I got all the time in the world. I'm playing it safe. Thanks.

[Jerry Scholder]

bmw vacum line2.jpgbmw vacum line3.jpg

Coming up on the finish line, Jerry!

I'll be off for a week so don't expect to hear anything for another week or so. I broke a "Fuel Filter Pressure Regulator Hose and have got a replacement; part number 13321437692. Looked at realoem and they didn't show this part number and there were 2 vacum lines listed. I believe the fuel filter pressure regulator is behind the intake manifold on the 2001 740i, M62tu. Anyone have any pictures that show where this hose connects to on both ends?

[oldroller]

Your fuel pressure regulator is built in to the fuel filter under the passenger side frame rail. Pics of where this hose came from?

[Narlift]

One end connects to the back of the intake manifold onto one of the osv ports (passenger side i believe) and the other side should just go to the regulator iirc, just parted 2 of these cars recently.

[Jerry Scholder]

I wish I could tell you for sure. The hose broke off somewhere near back of manifold.
I'll send pic when back in town about a week.
As always, thanks for your reply.

[Narlift]

One end connects to the back of the intake manifold onto one of the osv ports (passenger side i believe) and the other side should just go to the regulator iirc, just parted 2 of these cars recently.

99.9% this is where it goes dude...

[Jerry Scholder]

iirc for those who don't know, (like me) is "If I Remember Correctly". Thanks for the info Narlift.

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A New Question.... Is there any trick to replacing the engine cover connectors. I'm having a hell of a time getting the engine cover to line up with the connectors after having taken them off and trying to put them back on to line up with the cover. Thanks.

[georgebest]

iirc for those who don't know, (like me) is "If I Remember Correctly". Thanks for the info Narlift.

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A New Question.... Is there any trick to replacing the engine cover connectors. I'm having a hell of a time getting the engine cover to line up with the connectors after having taken them off and trying to put them back on to line up with the cover. Thanks.

Which cover do you mean? The sound isolation one with the BMW logo on it? Not sure which connectors you mean, a picture would help.