On the upper timing cover there are two screws that can be removed to reveal inspection ports. With the locking tools in place, a small drill bit or some other rod inserted into the port should align with the hole in the impulse wheel on the vanos. Upper timing cover needs to be properly installed (pressed down per the installation method) for this to work.
Just a good double check of your your work before you get it all back together.
I was up at 2:15 a.m. last night unable to sleep as I was thinking were the Vanos Solenoids supposed to be installed while I was going through the timing guide steps using the beisansystems tutorial. One of the last steps stated I could take off the Vanos Solenoids before using the special tool to lock the sensor wheel; but it did state unless they were already removed earlier. The continuity issue just doesn't seem right. I'm getting readings and resistance, but not in the same way as I see on some DIY videos. I have no audible voltmeter, so have been turning vanos to the left until reaching the "stop"; seems simple enough. I wanted to turn the crankshaft two rotations again, but don't want to repeat the same steps again for the third time; putting the fly pin back in, blocks on, etc. Guess you have to be confident at some point. Checked continuity again and have readings jumping around from one number to another. Only have pins to touch Ground and pin, not clips so maybe that's why there is no solid reading. Anyone have this result? Will try another meter with audible to be sure. Broke a bolt in water pump install and it's a small diameter so drilling out is gonna be rough. Just need a hole through the bolt to get my extractor in it.
I need a lead on how to identify what size bolts are used on the passenger side of lower timing cover; should be 4 I think. I used the cardboard to label the bolts, but somehow they don't line up; most are too long and won't thread in all the way. Zip lock bag may have been compromised, LOL. I'll probably go to the local BMW shop to get various bolts and misc. items. Finding bolts on internet is proving to be difficult. Checked realoem.com and their information hasn't been accurate. Ruined first water pump gasket and somehow ordered two luckily. Simple procedure of putting gasket sealer on is not so simple the first time. On the gasket? Which side? On the engine mounting area and place the gasket on it? Amazing I've gotten anything accomplished. I can't even remember what thread I'm supposed to be on these days. So should I rotate the crankshaft two times for one last check?
Thanks for the explanation; hate to be a bother but can you help me out with what 2 screws are removed to reveal inspection ports? Or I would be happy to search a site for more information if you could reference one. I did a quick search on this subject and did not find anything. Sounds like a great method to save a lot of time if things aren't right.
When rolling the engine, be aware that at TDC the #1 bank intake cam will roll forward (advanced) due to the spring load on the
cam lobes. If checking the timing plates through the holes in the upper cover this will be off on the passenger side.
It should be set initially with the cam blocks in place and flush with the head. It can be checked by rolling the cam back with
a wrench on the cam hex and inserting the drill bit.
Best way would be to lock the cams with the timing blocks and check position. There was a member (forgot who) that had to adjust the position
every so slightly to prevent a reoccurring code. Also check the blades of the timing plate, make sure they aren't bent back away from the cam sensor,
or out of line.
Sorry I was remiss in thanking you for this information. Have not gotten to try this yet, but good information. (removing wiring looms)
Went through this whole procedure about 2 a.m. checking my work. I think I get it; if the sensor wheel is in the proper position "before" it is torqued then it doesn't matter if it is moved before being torqued. With special tool attached, there would seem to be very little chance of error...
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God, I just love it when a reply comes with pictures. I owe you big time for the effort to respond. Thanks again. Can't wait to learn how to add those red circles onto a picture.
Last edited by Jerry Scholder; 08-06-2018 at 09:48 AM.
Iphone photo editing with a finger!
Trying to understand the continuity test for cam/vanos timing as my meters are showing a bunch of continually changing numbers but not bottoming out at 0. I have moved the vanos all the way to the left stop point as I have no audible tester. By getting different readings when touching the pins and ground, do I have continuity or is it required to be set at a certain number at some point? I've gone through the process twice and believe I've followed all the right steps. What might be a reason I wouldn't have continuity?
Thanks for any help?
Not to worry Jerry, the continuity test is just to verify that you have rotated the Vanos fully advanced. Be careful not to force it.
From Beisan's site:
Caution: Do not place notable pressure on vanos turning tool as pins will break.
Ohm meter will display 0 ohm when vanos at fully retarded position.
Note: Vanos internal piston will connect with vanos test pins when fully retarded and cause a short reading (0 ohm).
Note: When ratchet pressure is released ohm reading can change to open circuit (infinite ohm). This is normal.
Note: In many cases a short will not be achieved and a 0 ohm reading will not occur. This is normal.
This is to make sure that, when timing the cams, you are in fully retarded position to lock the timing wheels and cams.
Just be vigilent when torqueing the cam bolts and timing wheel nuts that nothing moves, support the cams with a wrench,
and verify the cam lock blocks have not move up off the head surface.
From there it is just reassembling all the fiddly bits...then the fire up!
I went through a similar issue over a year ago, but oldroller and other members helped me out!
See posts #33-38: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...01-740iL/page2
Current: 2007 Z4 M Coupe (blue/black)
Previous: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black), 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)
Sure is nice to get some reassurance that the house isn't on fire. Is the "trigger wheel" referring to the "sensor wheel"? Putting this thing back together can also be challenging the first time. I mixed up the alternator bolts with the upper driver side cover and somehow managed to mix up the passenger side lower timing cover bolts. Took a little more time than it should have. All is well. BTW, in the spirit of full disclosure I had not done one of the steps involving taking out the bolt on the passenger side engine to purge the coolant; better late than never? The bolt was a pain to access and a lot of coolant was released when removed. Any guesses as if this oversight has created any issues? Saw the coolant in the hole behind the water pump when re-assembling. Got a grub screw at the local hardware store and it was a tad long, but don't see it hitting anything when the upper cover is put in and it snugs up to the OSV connection. Thanks all for staying in touch. Can't wait to fire it up.
I dont think that not releasing the coolant will cause any issues, other than a bit messy to do job with coolant in some holes, you will fill it back up and bleed anyway.
Grub screw just needs to touch but not push the OSV pipe, drive it in more if not touching it, you can do that with allen key.
Stay with BMW Blue coolant if possible Jerry. When I pulled my M62 down there was no deposits of any kind in the passages, clean as
new, blue used exclusively for the first 154K. Being all aluminum, is does make a difference depending on what is used.
On initial startup, I lost a good portion of my blue from the accumulator gasket on the head. Locate, replace, refill, another gallon...duh.
Since then I use just water for the initial fire-up, short run-in to verify no leaks, then drain and refill with 50/50% blue and distilled water,
and bleed.
Onward!
Hi Guys:
I broke a bolt while installing on the lower case cover on the 2001 bmw e38 while re-assembling. It is the second bolt up on the passenger side, (after the dowel on bottom). The A/C compressor is in the way of me getting a clear path to drill into the bolt (1/8") and extract with my Irwin Hanson set. How difficult would it be to just loosen a few bolts on the compressor and swing it over a bit? Can this be done w/o have to take off any hoses? Thanks.
The helicoil ordered was too large for the hole. Still looking for any options that could be used as an alternative to the bolt but would still attach the lower cover secure enough to protect against leaks. Also checking for right size helicoils.
Last edited by Jerry Scholder; 08-16-2018 at 07:05 PM. Reason: Additional information
Yes Jerry, remove the bolts supporting the compressor and move it to the side. Surprised you hadn't already done this. No need to remove ac hoses.
It's always testy torqueing these bolts to the correct inch pounds feet ratings, especially with a torque wrench that night not be calibrated correctly.
Touchy stuff, must be gingerly fingered. I'm a bit anal, but years of engine rebuilding taught me the key to solid connections is run a tap through every hole,
run a die over every bolt, light oil on the bolt and torque to specs. Amazing the amount of dirt/oil/gunk that accumulates in a bolt hole. Also check every bolt for
stretch marks/tapers, indicating overly torqued bolts previously. Only takes a bit of time, instead of a headache later.
I use Pelican Parts out here on the left coast. Quicker delivery for me and great response when something is not right. They actually have everything, and if they don't, they'll order it from BMW for you.
Great professional outfit, also for Porsche, Mercedes, Volvo, SAAB and VW.
02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)
I was finally able to drill a hole through the bolt large enough to put a 10mm helicoil in; DID NOT WORK; helicoil too large for hole. Never did any tapping before so not really familiar with it. "Run a die over every bolt" is also unfamiliar. I know there are some articles I can look at. Light oil on the bolt makes sense. I was trying not to mess with the compressor without knowing for sure what I might be getting into. Had to get a new gasket set to replace the one on the passenger side. Has bimmerforums changed anything with regard to uploading pictures? I'm having a tough time lately with exceeding forum quota by 112KB. Loaded a picture finally.
Last edited by Jerry Scholder; 08-16-2018 at 07:07 PM. Reason: Add info
Tap and die sets come in all different price ranges. Basically a tap is a 'thread cutter' to even out a bolt hole removing bent or damaged threads.
In rebuilding engines a 'thread chaser' is used to run down the hole, clean it up, then spray it out with brake cleaner and vacuum any loose bits.
A die is a round disc with cutter teeth in the middle to clean up threads on a bolt. All sizes and pitches (number of threads per inch).
Match your chaser to your bolt size/pitch, and make happy holes.
Most just use a wire brush and some cleaner to remove debris from bolts, holes in the block and heads rarely get attention.
Somehow I've had bad experience with helicoils on the engine, installed not less than 3 on my bank 2 upper cover, I think the aluminium is too soft or maybe not using the proper ones (Pep's Boys "OEM" brand). They are holding for now but wont survive another disassambley. Hope it works out better for you.
Interesting information. I was checking the tensioner on the passenger side and pushed up on it to check the operation and the spring load you referred to on the cam lobes happened. I would think if you're using the G.A.S. kit and set it up properly, there should be no question of the timing plates being in the proper position.
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I'll let you know how my install works out. Helicoil was way too big for the hole. Looking for other alternatives, including for not using the bolt.
Last edited by Jerry Scholder; 08-17-2018 at 11:45 AM. Reason: Add info
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