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Thread: Jerry's car project

  1. #126
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    2001 BMW 740i
    This Thread will now be forever incorporated into "Jerry's Car" which includes Power Steering, Timing Chain Guide, Jesus Bolt Removal, Engine Mount Install, and whatever else comes up along the way. Thanks for following.

  2. #127
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    2001 BMW 740i

    Timing Chain update

    Ordered all the parts and when they arrive ready to proceed with rest of the project. I appreciate the responses to the upper oil pan gasket. Hard to know what will or won't work or if only the front part of the gasket was compromised until you repair it and have oil replaced; Yes? I believe I just damaged the front part, but want to do any other things (except drop the subframe) to ensure a better result. Anyway, haven't opened that 50 gallon container yet, (as oldroller put it).

    FYI: "Jerry's Car" will be my new thread and I can hopefully combine all the previous threads under this heading. Not sure if it's a good idea yet, because it makes the (false) assumption someone cares about "jerry's car" but they may care about an issue dealing with engine mounts, power steering hose replacement, timing chain guide project, etc. etc. BillConn from E38 forum nailed the solution to my power steering gear box bolt access problem; drivers side engine mount was toast. See pics. I have a large piece remaining of the engine mount and wonder if I should just punch the rest of it out from the top; I believe the engine is jacked up enough. Forgot if there is supposed to be a bare hole remaining.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    Ordered all the parts and when they arrive ready to proceed with rest of the project. I appreciate the responses to the upper oil pan gasket. Hard to know what will or won't work or if only the front part of the gasket was compromised until you repair it and have oil replaced; Yes? I believe I just damaged the front part, but want to do any other things (except drop the subframe) to ensure a better result. Anyway, haven't opened that 50 gallon container yet, (as oldroller put it).

    FYI: "Jerry's Car" will be my new thread and I can hopefully combine all the previous threads under this heading. Not sure if it's a good idea yet, because it makes the (false) assumption someone cares about "jerry's car" but they may care about an issue dealing with engine mounts, power steering hose replacement, timing chain guide project, etc. etc. BillConn from E38 forum nailed the solution to my power steering gear box bolt access problem; drivers side engine mount was toast. See pics. I have a large piece remaining of the engine mount and wonder if I should just punch the rest of it out from the top; I believe the engine is jacked up enough. Forgot if there is supposed to be a bare hole remaining.
    This is the best way doing, almost everybody here had a "build" thread. Those mounts look awful, car will run much smoother with the new ones. I even replaced the transmission mounts, no more vibration.

  4. #129
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    E30 E38 E46 E85 F150 GTI
    Trans mounts are shot too, guaranteed.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  5. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    Trans mounts are shot too, guaranteed.
    Being rubber and getting on 20 years old, all of ours should be shot by now if not already replaced. Jerry if it were me I'd do the tranny mounts too while I had it up on stands. The more you do now, the less to deal with later. I hate being under the car more than I have to. I so need a lift.....

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    2001 740iL "Silver Beauty"
    1986 Porsche 951 "Silver Bullet"
    1987 Porsche 944 NA Auto (rebuilding for my son's first car)
    https://home.doonze.net/filepage.php <- BMW/Porsche doc's and files, work in progress

  6. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by 951Dreams View Post
    Being rubber and getting on 20 years old, all of ours should be shot by now if not already replaced. Jerry if it were me I'd do the tranny mounts too while I had it up on stands. The more you do now, the less to deal with later. I hate being under the car more than I have to. I so need a lift.....

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    Tranny mounts are something where I'd consider using a mechanic/lift. I didt it on jacks and it was absolute pain to get them out, one of the threads were shot to make it even more difficult. Spent probably 5 hours on it if not more. Had to drill out one of it. Would have been probably 30-60 minutes on a lift.
    It was probably the hardest single task to do on my car to date, glovebox position strut and Jesus bolt being also a close second.

  7. #132
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    Oct 2017
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    2001 BMW 740i

    Engine Mount really stuck

    I just got a bunch of stuff from FCP. No, it won't bust the company because too many people don't bother to take advantage of it when they can. Kind of like "Gift Cards"; do you know how much they make on unused gift cards? It's obscene.

    Now, for a quick question. I could really use some advice on how to get that drivers side engine mount loose as it is seriously wedged in its current position. Tried a crow bar, banging it with a sledge hammer, raising the engine till I thought I might break something. Looking for a few tricks to shake it loose. Thanks.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I just got a bunch of stuff from FCP. No, it won't bust the company because too many people don't bother to take advantage of it when they can. Kind of like "Gift Cards"; do you know how much they make on unused gift cards? It's obscene.

    Now, for a quick question. I could really use some advice on how to get that drivers side engine mount loose as it is seriously wedged in its current position. Tried a crow bar, banging it with a sledge hammer, raising the engine till I thought I might break something. Looking for a few tricks to shake it loose. Thanks. Oh, by the way, I'm on the re-installation stage of the Timing Chain Guide Project. Lots of fun time ahead.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #133
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    2001 BMW 740i

    Engine Mount Resolved

    At the risk of being embarrassed I won't go into detail. It was as easy as some have said, when you don't make stupid mistakes. Next......

  9. #134
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    Great! You will really feel a difference when driving it with new engine mounts.

  10. #135
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    2001 BMW 740i

    Timing Chain update

    Please see Oil Separator question in separate thread, and also "What is this O ring?" I seem to be missing a bolt on the Guide Rail above the 10mm bolt for the separator. Is it possible it is part of the bolts used when the cover goes on, or it doesn't use one? Had a little adversity putting on the U guide when I broke the head off the lower middle torx bolt of three there. I was lucky to have a piece I could grasp and unscrew it. I was actually thinking maybe I could get away without it and then I imagined all the bad things that could happen. Put in a picture of the job to date. Slow but sure. Along the way, put in new engine mounts and received my 4 power steering hoses today.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Jerry Scholder; 07-13-2018 at 09:33 PM. Reason: Manage Pics

  11. #136
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    Moving Right Along on Timing Guides

    Now at the stage of using the multi meter to test for continuity. Putting on the Tensioner Rail was a little tricky at first when matching up the piece to the U Guide hole, (o ring needed oil on it) but not too bad. The bolt did not tighten 100% to keep the Rail from moving a very small fraction; is this normal?

  12. #137
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    Update on the Timing Chain Guides: I think I'm over the hump and approaching the finish line, (half marathon to go). I'm at the continuity testing stage. Chris at G.A.S has let me use his M62U timing tools for too long and I need to get them back to him. The oil separator DIY instructions I've seen have not addressed the connection of the OS to the connection on the engine. Once ruskii explained with a picture, it took me 5 minutes to finish installing it. I noticed a bolt hole that lines up with the connector and wondered if it is to secure the connector on the engine from coming loose? The bolt would line up directly to the connector. The tensioner guide rail bottom bolt when tightened did not provide 100% tightness; a very small movement was still evident on the bolt. Is this normal? Should it be completely tight? Has anyone tried their local hardware store for compatible bolts and O rings when in a hurry to get something?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by 951Dreams View Post
    Being rubber and getting on 20 years old, all of ours should be shot by now if not already replaced. Jerry if it were me I'd do the tranny mounts too while I had it up on stands. The more you do now, the less to deal with later. I hate being under the car more than I have to. I so need a lift.....

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    You're absolutely right and this is the kind of suggestions I really appreciate knowing. Thanks.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by georgebest View Post
    Tranny mounts are something where I'd consider using a mechanic/lift. I didt it on jacks and it was absolute pain to get them out, one of the threads were shot to make it even more difficult. Spent probably 5 hours on it if not more. Had to drill out one of it. Would have been probably 30-60 minutes on a lift.
    It was probably the hardest single task to do on my car to date, glovebox position strut and Jesus bolt being also a close second.
    No mechanics if possible. How high did you get the car jacked up? If I need any help I know some of the best "mechanics" are at bimmerforums. It's worth looking at anyway. I'm going to research if there are any DIY posts on this job.

  13. #138
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    There is a 'grub bolt' that screws into the u-guide and extends against the oil separator connector, once the u=guide is fully fastened.
    And no, there should be no play in the u-guide once secured.
    The grub bolt is screwed in until it contacts the OSV head, just snug, to prevent movement. Is it in your old guide?
    grub screw.png

  14. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    No mechanics if possible. How high did you get the car jacked up? If I need any help I know some of the best "mechanics" are at bimmerforums. It's worth looking at anyway. I'm going to research if there are any DIY posts on this job.
    I mean it's totally doable, just took me more efforts than I expected. I was unlucky having a broken thread otherwise would have been much easier. It's hard to access the nut holding the mount, you need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-WRN571...ng+wrench+10mm
    I'm not sure about the size but probably 10mm, check it before buying it.
    I was using a simple ramp like this: https://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-119...&keywords=ramp
    Anyway, put your engine together first, the grub screw that Oldroller mentioned is important, I almost left it out as well.

  15. #140
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    Don't miss the procedure to set the upper timing covers to deck height, meaning press them down using the
    valve covers (with no gasket inserted) with the timing cover bolts inserted but not tight. This presses the TC's down
    to the head level. Then torque the TC bolts to spec. Remove the valve covers and continue.
    A lot of oil leaks are caused by missing this step, leaving gaps in the TC/head/valve cover front area.
    Looking for an update!
    Last edited by oldroller; 07-22-2018 at 09:30 PM.

  16. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old525i View Post
    They seem to stick tight around the plastic fitting. I cut mine off and then used an Exacto knife to remove the remainder of the hose. I then replace the hose with a silicon hose that doesn't stick to the housing.
    You are the Man! Who needs expensive parts anyway?

  17. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldroller View Post
    Don't miss the procedure to set the upper timing covers to deck height, meaning press them down using the
    valve covers (with no gasket inserted) with the timing cover bolts inserted but not tight. This presses the TC's down
    to the head level. Then torque the TC bolts to spec. Remove the valve covers and continue.
    A lot of oil leaks are caused by missing this step, leaving gaps in the TC/head/valve cover front area.
    Looking for an update!
    Great advice and really appreciate you staying in touch. Been away for a couple of weeks. Timing done and all new parts installed. PS hoses installed. Engine mounts replaced. At stage of lower cover going back on and I've been procrastinating about what problems may pop up. Then upper covers, etc. Cracked a fuel filter vacuum line and can't find one under $45-$50; crazy. Couldn't locate an OEM replacement for BMW part 13321437692. Real OEM.com must be dated as they showed one for $16.70 but not now. Anyone that might have a lead on this would be appreciated. New pictures to follow soon.
    Last edited by Jerry Scholder; 08-03-2018 at 09:23 AM. Reason: part number

  18. #143
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    Zip tie and lower cover install

    Quote Originally Posted by oldroller View Post
    There is a 'grub bolt' that screws into the u-guide and extends against the oil separator connector, once the u=guide is fully fastened.
    And no, there should be no play in the u-guide once secured.
    The grub bolt is screwed in until it contacts the OSV head, just snug, to prevent movement. Is it in your old guide?
    grub screw.png
    Grub bolt was not in my old guide. I will be sure to put in. Fixed the U-Guide bolt by taking out, cleaning, oiling and returned; no more play. Glad I asked and glad you responded. Also rechecked continuity with volt meter; probably wasted time because even though one of the vanos pins did not register any change, another one did so the first pin must have had some type of oil or whatever keeping it from registering. Prepared crankshaft for new seal. Gasket repair for upper oil pan went well and "should" prevent any problems there unless there is a gasket issue where I can't see it. Question: How does one put the lower cover on while having the tension rail tied with the zip tie? How to either remove zip tie before or after lower cover is on? Haven't seen anything on the DIY's about this. Also, any thoughts on what things should go on first to avoid blocked bolt holes? I read the water pump is one that should go on first, but does this mean before lower cover is put on? Anything else you can think of? The tensioner guide rail had that small O ring installed in it, so I think that is where the O ring I found laying around came from. There is also one on the passenger side below the small sprocket on the engine. Hope to get some updated pics out soon. Thanks again for your help.

    One other question: Saw in DIY video a guy who pre-lubed main chain and guide rails; I did not. Is this an issue to worry about? If so, can I do this after installed?
    Last edited by Jerry Scholder; 08-03-2018 at 10:03 AM. Reason: Add. Question and wording

  19. #144
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    Question Re: Sensor wheel locking tool

    Quote Originally Posted by georgebest View Post
    +1!
    Was looking at "Highline 740iL write up posted 5-8-2011, titled "DIY:Timing Chain Guide + Timing Chain Replacement". What is the purpose of fitting Camshaft Sensor Wheel Locking Tool pin into sensor wheel and securing locking tool to the engine? It would seem to keep the sensor wheel from turning when tightening the Impulse Wheel Nut to 30 ft. pounds. The sensor wheel had to be turned prior to install of Cam sensor wheel locking tool pin to line up the hole in the Cam sensor wheel. Once this CS wheel is locked and the Impulse Wheel Nut is torqued why the need to keep sensor wheel from turning as it was already turned to line up the hole? Process seems clear but reasoning of the process not clear.

  20. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    Also try http://furiousmethod.com/ to search multiple parts sites.
    FYI: this comes up as a "non-secure site". Just sayin....

  21. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    FYI: this comes up as a "non-secure site". Just sayin....
    I believe it was started by a member of the E39 forum but can't be certain. Not sure what a "non-secure site" is, but it comes up fine on my firefox browser. It does work.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  22. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    It would seem to keep the sensor wheel from turning when tightening the Impulse Wheel Nut to 30 ft. pounds.
    That's the function of it, there is no other way to set properly the position of the sensor wheel and torque it to spec. Be careful there, it takes only a mm off and you will start getting error codes. I found this guide to be the best: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm

    Good luck!

  23. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluptgm3 View Post
    Use www.realoem.com.
    Open and enter the part number in the P/N search field. The program will delineate fitment.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    They seem to be out of date and unreliable for information where to get some parts, i.e. bolts.

  24. #149
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    Not normal and re-inserted after cleaning and oil. Tight.

  25. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    They seem to be out of date and unreliable for information where to get some parts, i.e. bolts.
    Use realoem.com only to get the proper item number, not to order parts. ECS or FCP or OEMBimmerparts are a good start to actually check pricing.

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