Great information to have. Thanks a lot!
Ummm...
Before you continue on you should check the TIS on www.newtis.info. This is the bible on how to do this job. Otherwise, you're gambling. I know a guy who did this job and ended up snapping the cams. I've done this several times and every time I use the TIS and follow every step religiously.
02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)
Agreed, this is the TIS link: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...mshaft/AcGa0Dm
I saw this in your post above. I guess this is a different car. But either way, it sounds like you have water intrusion issues that you need to fix before electrical stuff goes completely bad. For one, you need to check the E-box under the hood and make sure the bottom isn't full of water. That is where some of the electrical for the wipers is and will short when water gets in there.
Second, the headlight thing sounds a lot like water is getting in from the sunroof and dripping down the passenger side a-pillar and getting on the LCM (light control module). When that happens, weird things happen. If it isn't solved soon, permanent damage may happen to your LCM requiring replacement. Check your glove box, the electricals behind it, and the LCM behind the passenger side kick panel for water. Then it would be smart to pull up the carpet on the passenger side and make sure water isn't pooling under there. There are plenty of posts on here where that has happened and corroded a lot of electrical under there.
'98 740il | 9/97 build | schwarz 2 | sandbeige | 5AT | 270k
'04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 120k
'00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 152k
'85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 216k | one owner, all original
mods: m-pars | Bilsteins & B&G springs | ValentineOne | StealthOne
retrofits: full nav | MKIV | bluetooth TCU | BM53 w/ AUX input | video module w/ AV input & backup cam | oem sirius xm | xenon | shades | PDC | rain sensor | BMW DWS TPMS | lighted door handles | front seat heaters | heated steering wheel | euro rear fog lights | ski pass | folding mirrors
I know this subject has been recycled often in the past, however I have to ask: The M-62 crankshaft holder; where is there a place on the subframe of an 2001 740i to "prop this tool against the cars sub-frame"? I couldn't see one, unless its covered by something which needs to be removed first. I used breaker bars on the crankshaft hub and the M62 tool and broke a socket wrench and socket adapter, but didn't budge the bolt. Still praying to Jesus for a way to accomplish this. Socket wrench was a Great Neck 3/4 inch. I was beginning to think it was reverse threaded....nope. I've gone over the "tricks" and other posts and wonder if the Pittsburg 27" Socket is the problem. I used an adapter to bring out the break bar from the hood to get a better leverage. I tried without the adapter and nothing. I tried 135 PSI Craftsman compressor attached to Earthquake XT impact tool, after spraying Blaster PB a few times. Another 3/4" socket wrench with a different socket? I would like to try the M62 tool under the subframe of the car if I can locate the spot. I seem to have the right breaker bars.... Please help with any suggestions. subframe.jpgClose up M62 tool.jpgbreak bar setup.jpgbroken socket wrench.jpgattached breakbars.jpg
I have a prefacelift car, but the holder tool went under the driver's side frame rail with a block of wood as a spacer.
I used a Craftsman 3/4 inch breaker bar with a 27mm impact deep socket for the bolt. I bought a 4ft galvanized steel pipe at the hardware store and a thin walled PVC pipe as a spacer between the steel pipe and breaker bar. It took a lot of force but it came out.
'98 740il | 9/97 build | schwarz 2 | sandbeige | 5AT | 270k
'04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 120k
'00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 152k
'85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 216k | one owner, all original
mods: m-pars | Bilsteins & B&G springs | ValentineOne | StealthOne
retrofits: full nav | MKIV | bluetooth TCU | BM53 w/ AUX input | video module w/ AV input & backup cam | oem sirius xm | xenon | shades | PDC | rain sensor | BMW DWS TPMS | lighted door handles | front seat heaters | heated steering wheel | euro rear fog lights | ski pass | folding mirrors
The holder goes under the subframe on the driver side as racer2086 said above, but you need to remove the brake breather or whatever that black plastic thing is called. Easy to remove it.
I have used this breaker bar: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with this socket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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This is how the proper setup looks like. Good times!
DSC06849.jpg
Same setup on mine, but I used a jackstand on the right to rest the tool on. Impact socket, 3/4" breaker bar, 6 foot section of stainless steel
aircraft pipe I had laying around. Still took a good bit of force to move it the first millimeter.....
Great Picture George; I can work with this one. I won't need a helper either; they're never around when you need them. LOL Hope to have good news tomorrow and be saying, "Thank-You JESUS." I have like an 8 foot steel breaker bar like they use for fence posts; no problem there.
Use an impact extension and socket, that's what they're made for... high torque. My HF Earthquake impact wasn't enough on the normal setting of the air compressor set at 90psi. Had to turn it up to 120 and having already had the bolt soaking in pb blaster, was able to get it off quite easily.
6/14/18: A fresh start with renewed enthusiasm was crushed after using a new set up to removing the crankshaft bolt. Used georgebest method of securing the M62 tool against the frame of the car on drivers side. It held nicely. Had to remove several items to successfully get M62 tool under subframe. Resulted in destroying a 24" 3/4 socket Gear Wrench, (metal snapped). I returned the 1/2" socket extension to Sears with no receipts, no questions, and immediate replacement. Nice! Returned 27mm 1/2 inch drive socket with others to Harbor Freight to try and find a deeper 27mm socket, black. No problem with return. NICE! Earthquake XT impact tool did not perform as promised. Next try will be with 3/4" drive breaker bar and 3/4" drive 27mm socket.Gear Wrench bad.jpgM62 opening.jpgM62 subframe.jpg
There is a reason we all said 3/4 from the beginning
I’ll bet that Earthquake impact would loosen the bolt if you give it some real PSI. I’ve run my HF earthquake at over 150psi when needed.... it’s got some serious balls if you up the PSI. Remember if you are using a 25-50ft hose you are losing significant pressure from the regulator to the air tool.
My HF earthquake has never failed to loosen a tough fastener if I give it enough psi.
Last edited by BillConn; 06-15-2018 at 07:52 PM.
+1 on impact gun. I took off my bolt using only impact gun (medium duty, I presume). It's not going to look like you are making progress but stay on it, let the gun hammer that sucker! and after a couple of minutes it should come out (depending on your air tank size/psi)... if it doesn't come out, well, hopefully it would've shook up the bolt to make it easier take off using a 3/4" breaker bar.
Current: 2007 Z4 M Coupe (blue/black)
Previous: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black), 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)
Ive had to use a 1 inch breaker bar with an impact socket of course (BLACK). Even with that, the bar was bending more than I would have liked, but it did come off. You just have to rock it back and forth until it snaps loose. Dont go cheap on sockets or breaker bars in this particular case.
BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///
Like they said, a good breaker bar and socket, PLUS, then go to Home Depot and get a 4-6' long steel pipe, place that on the breaker bar and pull, comes off like butter.
02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)
I'm on it; got a huge 3/4 drive ratchet, a new 27mm 3/4 socket, the M62 Tool, a new breaker bar with 3/4 male connector, and a 8 foot pipe. I was told over 3 feet was not a good idea, but first time I've heard that. Have you ever heard of anyone "breaking" something rather than the crankshaft bolt turning; not tools but with the vehicle components?
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The Earthquake XT states 90 PSI is the maximum input. The CFM rating on the compressor is also an important element.....I think.
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Just one of the many lessons learned oh wise one.
Thanks: All of the above worked and it is now off.
Camshaft Chain Tensioner Locking clips can't be used due to plastic inserts brittle and broke while trying to insert; what do I do now? Thanks.
zip ties
E85 fueled, Eaton m112 supercharged 4.5L M62TU, TTV racing flywheel, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 88c thermostat, eibach sway bars, wavetrac 3.15 lsd, m5 steering box, Quantum 340lph fuel pump, Dinan camber plates, some powerflex bushings, Supersprint headers, M5 cats, 2001 gas pedal upgrade and many other things done. all diy by me
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