Jerry, check this page from RealOEM...
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_2282
And iirc, there are letters stamped into the mounts for front and back, but it's not 'f' and 'b'.
I have never removed those brackets... any reason why I should have?
I removed them when I did the VC gaskets. No big deal. Take a pic and refer to it on reassembly. Maybe I could have left them in place? Dunno. If they are removed now the pic should help.If not, carry on.
So, going back to an earlier issue: The clutch nut on the first picture is from the 2001 740i I have been working on, (can't see it). The second picture is from a 2001 740i that I purchased about a year ago with what appears to be the proper way this clutch nut should be attached and easy to access. Anyone have any guesses as to what I might have done wrong, or if it's possible that the first picture with limited access could just be the way it is? I'm going with: I definitely screwed it up somehow, but can't figure out how. I just threaded the fan on by hand and kept turning counter clockwise until I had to use the fan blades to finish tightening it, (couldn't reach my hand or a tool into the remaining space.bmw cooling fan.jpgbmw new clutch.jpg
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Pictures were great and what I should have done in the first place. Thanks.
The second picture looks okay to me. Do you have the special tool for the fan? Hard to do it without it, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Your first one looks off. Is your pulley on backwards? Surprised the belt isn’t hitting anything if it is.
2001 750iL DD74441
Stock
RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1
Have to agree with AB here... looks like the pulley is on backwards. that's the only thing I can think of that
will have the viscous fan nut disappear! The belt will likely be off of alignment also.
I think I'm lost here, need a photo with a better perspective.
This is an idea worth checking on; I'm not sure if the pulley is on backwards, but I knew something isn't right. I'm having trouble getting the fan to come back off without being able to get the tool in there. The belt isn't hitting anything "yet" because it hasn't been moved, "yet". The belt position did look funky when done. As usual pictures to follow. Thanks.
Last edited by Jerry Scholder; 10-11-2018 at 05:29 PM.
I had the tool; it did not fit into the cramped space I created for myself. Once I correct the probable pulley issue, I can use the tool. In the meantime, I am in search of an idea of what to use that is very thin that I can just get on, to allow the loosely fitting nut to turn clockwise and start the removal process. I have so little area to fit into. Stupid mistakes always seem to call for creative solutions to solve. Another lesson learned.
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You are absolutely correct, as usual. The fan belt didn't look right, but I couldn't know for sure why? One more question answered. Now to get the fan to turn clockwise and loosen up without a tool that I can fit into the limited space I created for myself.
You might be able to use the viscous fan function to your advantage.
Using a heat gun, CAREFULLY and slowly heat the center body while turning the fan clockwise with your other hand.
When the thermo expansive mechanism begins to engage, it should turn the large nut off. If you have a laser thermometer,
you can gauge the lock in temperature, probably in the 210-215F range.
Once it begins to move off, make a few turns and let it cool before removing.
Note: I have never tried this maneuver, but in your circumstance I believe it's worth a shot, given the lack of space to do anything else.
Good luck!
Bit off topic: nice valve cover paint!
Went to the "project car" this a.m and was optimistic. Persistence pays off. I first used a long thin screw driver to reach the nut on the cooling fan. I used a mallet and hit the side of the nut to loosen. I then turned the fan clockwise, giving it a hard turn to start. It worked and the fan came off. The pulley was backwards; thanks Old Roller, Angry Bear and all for the diagnosis. The special tool will not do what it is supposed to do.
Good work, that's a mistake you'll not make again.
There is a ton of hard lessons with these cars, a steep learning curve but oh so satisfying!
You are so right Old Roller. Most people would have given up by now, but with help from the forum I've been able to keep going forward. The surf fishing at Cocoa Beach Florida has been great lately so I've taken a break. I did get a used tire mud shield for front drivers side installed. The other one was brittle and pieces kept breaking off. I also picked up a new radiator fan shroud; same problem, plastic kept breaking off old one. I've come to the conclusion I'll have to drill out the bolt on the passenger side transmission mount and have ordered a good drill bit for the job. The nut on the top is stripped and the access is so tight, I just can't get in there to get it off. I haven't put the fluids in yet, (oil, coolant, power steering fluid) but soon. Everyone at my Condo complex wants to be there when I start it up again.....most just want to see me fail after putting so much time into it. I remain confident. Will of course let you know when I do.
I always wanted to get the valve cover painted, but now the engine has finally no timing errors I dont dare to touch it. I have no explanation why the timing error just disappeared at some point
When will you start up your rebuilt engine?? Do you have now two E38s?
Yes, George, I have two E38's; same year, same model but the "newer" (restored) version is oriental blue with many "M" Sport Pkg upgrades, including the engine horsepower, Grom Audio BT3, Infinity BassLink Subwoofer, MSport Steering Wheel, Front struts and rear shocks replaced with Eibach/Bilstein B12 ProKit, Factory Bluetooth (TCU), Factory MKIV Navigation, MSport Steering Wheel rewrapped with Alcantara and 177,000 miles. By the way, it came in handy when trying to locate where the vacuum pipe/hose part 13321437692 was installed from the firewall to the MAF lower connection. The "M" 740i helped me locate the proper connection.
Also, I think I have you beat on how long it took me to replace and install the transmission mounts. Finally completed by drilling a hole in the passenger side disk underneath and using a crow bar to bend it loose enough to slide off. So, no more excuses....time to get this thing started and find out what quality work I did or didn't accomplish. Fluids to be replaced and fuse disconnect to fuel pump before starting to lubricate engine parts. After starting and it hopefully running alright, I want to replace the cooler heater exchanger hoses to the transmission.
So I put the PS fluid in and found two leaks at the connection points; mostly because of faulty washer installation. Fixed one. The second one is the infamous 19 mm connection on the PS pump running along the valve cover on the drivers side. The problem is "seating" the bolt into the hole. The damn connector will not lay flat, ( not to mention keeping the bottom washer from coming off while trying to do so) and with the limited amount of space, I can't get my hand in there and force it to lay flat. The hose itself is not very flexible and you need to really muscle it to get the connection bolt to fit flat to the hole. I have been able to fit the 19mm socket on the nut, but it won't matter if I can't seat the bolt. Looking for "tricks" to help resolve this ridiculous situation. Thanks.
2001 740i project car. Power Steering Box.jpg
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