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Thread: Jerry's car project

  1. #1
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    Jerry's car project

    Would someone please tell me how to disconnect this ?. Thanks.MAF Connector.JPG

  2. #2
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    They seem to stick tight around the plastic fitting. I cut mine off and then used an Exacto knife to remove the remainder of the hose. I then replace the hose with a silicon hose that doesn't stick to the housing.

  3. #3
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    Timing Chain Guide Project

    As a "Newby", I thought I would chronicle my challenges in following DIY videos and other instructional materials while examining my timing chain guides and other things that crop up along the way. I am taking pictures and generating questions that my previous research did not cover or not cover well, (IMHO-in my humble opinion). I have already stripped a pulley bolt, cut my hand when not wearing gloves, learned the easy way to remove the radiator and hoses when they are stubborn, saved time in the removal process as valve gasket seals had to be replaced anyway, shorted the alternator while removing--I didn't see the part of disconnecting the battery, just to remove the cable under the hood;; purchased a number of tools to ease the process. And last so far--took off the camshaft pulley flywheel prematurely and had to put back on. Contacted G.A.S. German Auto Solutions for Timing Guide Kit rental--they were out and had a lot of people wanting it; also out of kits to sell. Nice people--sent me to Dr. Vanos who had one he could send me. Oh, and those metal clips that have to be removed at the wiring box; no one wants to admit what a nightmare that is.

    One question: does the lower pulley below the tensioner not need to be removed. (PIC) and if it does need to be removed, why is there no bolt in the middle, just a small hole? Also better picture of the MAF hose connection I can't seem to figure out how to remove. Will removing the Camshaft flywheel create an alignment problem? Hope people will not get tired of my stupid questions. Thanks in advance.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Jerry Scholder; 05-30-2018 at 10:11 AM. Reason: Thanks.

  4. #4
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    For the MAF tube, squeeze the outer plastic ring, until it deforms enough to slip the tube off.

    For the tensioner pulley, the two pulleys are all part of the same tensioner unit. When you get the bolts out, both will come off with the tensioner.

    Are you referring to the CRANKshaft pulley when you talk of the "camshaft flywheel"? There should be no alignment issues if everything bolts up properly. That will have to come off for you to install the crank holder to get the crank bolt off (aka Jesus bolt).

    Hope that helps.
    '98 740il | 9/97 build | schwarz 2 | sandbeige | 5AT | 270k
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    As a "Newby", I thought I would chronicle my challenges in following DIY videos and other instructional materials while examining my timing chain guides and other things that crop up along the way. I am taking pictures and generating questions that my previous research did not cover or not cover well, (IMHO-in my humble opinion). I have already stripped a pulley bolt, cut my hand when not wearing gloves, learned the easy way to remove the radiator and hoses when they are stubborn, saved time in the removal process as valve gasket seals had to be replaced anyway, shorted the alternator while removing--I didn't see the part of disconnecting the battery, just to remove the cable under the hood;; purchased a number of tools to ease the process. And last so far--took off the camshaft pulley flywheel prematurely and had to put back on. Contacted G.A.S. German Auto Solutions for Timing Guide Kit rental--they were out and had a lot of people wanting it; also out of kits to sell. Nice people--sent me to Dr. Vanos who had one he could send me. Oh, and those metal clips that have to be removed at the wiring box; no one wants to admit what a nightmare that is.

    One question: does the lower pulley below the tensioner not need to be removed. (PIC) and if it does need to be removed, why is there no bolt in the middle, just a small hole? Also better picture of the MAF hose connection I can't seem to figure out how to remove. Will removing the Camshaft flywheel create an alignment problem? Hope people will not get tired of my stupid questions. Thanks in advance.
    Oh boy! I have just done this not long ago with the help of this forum. You can buy the timing kit on Amazon or Ebay for around $130 with shipping, you also need the crankshaft holding tool for $90, FCP has it.
    There are many DIY on the net, the best is probably Beisan's though that is not covering the lower timing chain cover.
    Getting off the crankshaft bolt is probably the hardest of the job, google "Jesus bolt". And I cant emphasize it enough:

    GET THE CRANKSHAFT HOLDER TOOL

    Most DIY dont use the tool and you can easily destroy the engine that way. It was the best advice I received from this forum.
    Which kit are you using for replacement parts? Some are missing parts, the ECS one is almost complete.

  6. #6
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    I second georgebest: I got my timing tools off eBay for like $120 shipped, and made my own crank holding tool. You can checkout the thread about my car. I ended up doing TCGs, valley pan, intake reseal, and all other gaskets/grommets/hoses while there.

    Before you dive in too deep, watch a ton of YouTube videos! That way you will get a feel as to what needs to happen as you take things apart. In regards to parts, I would not buy kits - it's better to pick your own parts. I used FCP, ECS and Amazon to get all of my parts.

    Also, even with the timing kit, my bank 1 camshaft was too advanced and threw a code. My advice is to use the check hole and a drill bit to doublecheck the trigger wheel alignment before you put the valve covers back on!

    Good luck my friend! As the saying goes "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time." So take your time, and you will get it fixed.
    Current: 2007 Z4 M Coupe (blue/black)
    Previous: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black), 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  7. #7
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    It's a sequence of approx 100 relatively easy tasks with only two difficult ones (at least for me):
    - removing the crankshaft bolt (a.k.a Jesus bolt)
    - timing in general, it's super sensitive. You are 1mm off and will get error codes. I even managed to be 180 degree off once, but let's not talk about that in public anymore

    if you do the VANOS update with Beisan kit that could get tricky too. It's not difficult but you can run into unexpected issues. You can buy tho rebuilt units for around $175 on Ebay.

    With that said I really enjoyed doing it.

  8. #8
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    Timing Chain Guides Project Cont'd

    I was really glad to see some comments about this timing chain project. When you say "if everything bolts up properly", not sure what this means. So, I am supposed to pull off the Crankshaft fly wheel pulley before using the timing guide Kit. I'll have to go back and review. Took out the spark plugs as I read it will make things easier aligning the timing. The "Jesus Bolt"....hmmm; is this just muscling the bolt to get it off? I'll brush up on the procedure before the timing kit arrives. I decided to address the power steering hoses today. Finally understood one of the diagrams showing hoses from the pump to the reservoir and from the radiator area to (name escapes me). My radiator hose locations were reversed from the diagram by whoever installed them, so I was confused at first why the hose that was labeled to go to the reservoir was so firmly attached and I couldn't see the routing to the reservoir. Of course that was the one which went to the rear; my diagram didn't label the "reservoir", "pump" or rear connection points. The hardest 2 hoses are yet to be detached. The pulley I was referring to is attached to the PS pump and after removing the 3 screws on it, it wouldn't budge. I want to remove if pulley is plastic and get the metal pulley. The P/S hoses were toast. Wondering if I should take the PS pump off too. Received the cordless impact wrench today. Tomorrow's objective is to find the power steering connections on other 2 hoses. CPS removed also--Cam Position Sensors Power Steer.JPGPS hose reservoir.JPGpower steer hose.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Jerry Scholder; 05-30-2018 at 10:20 PM. Reason: Mistake post

  9. #9
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    Thanks for your input; I'll give it a try.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I have definitely been watching a ton of U-Tube Videos and taking notes of the order of things to be done. I am able to take my time as the car is not needed and I'm Retired. I'm labeling parts and all nuts and connectors. Hope you will be able to answer a couple of questions I know I will have along the way. Thanks for your input.

  10. #10
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    VCG Paint Job

    Valve Gasket Covers nicely sandblasted and painted; ready to go when Timing Project is complete.IMG_7341.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #11
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    Tensioner Adj Pulley comparison

    While removing my original tensioner on the 2001 740i E38 I noticed it was nearly identical to one I purchased years ago but didn't use. I compared everything with the original and can't find any difference, yet the part numbers are different. They are both INA manuf. The original 2-2-00 and the new 22 10 14. The only place I can guess they may be different is in the Top/Ober piece, but not sure what the function of this piece is. Anyone know the function of this? Regulates the level of tension? Hard to believe they can be so alike by view but not be compatible by part number. I will call INA and OEM Bimmers to give them part numbers.

  12. #12
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    MAF advice was right on; thanks. I get confused with the 2 parts; crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft bolt. Why does the pulley have to be constrained from moving when taking the bolt off. Is it part of the timing? I know it may have to be moved to align the cam with the blocks in the tool kit, so I guess it may be a dumb question. There are still DIY videos out there that suggest using the pin in the flywheel as good enough; risky business. Does the pin go in after removing the bolt? The videos differ in their approach I can't avoid trying to get that bolt off any longer; have to get a 27 socket and some chain for an alternative method/trick I recently came across on U-Tube. So many poor videos out there re: Timing Chain Guide replacement. Many avoid the Crankshaft Pulley issue completely.

    I was in the 2001 740 M (upgrades) yesterday in pouring rain and my wipers decided to take a vacation. Rain X was a lifesaver. 10 minutes later when I reduced speed the wipers came back on. The car was purchased with 175,000 miles and was restored by its past owner. It has another quirk when driving in the dark; the drivers side headlight goes off after about 20 minutes and if I turn the car off and back on the headlight will work again but for only a short while. I was going to change the bulb but I'm not sure that's the problem. Could these be electrical issues? Thanks for the FCP link; I may have to use it ultimately.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    Does the pin go in after removing the bolt? The videos differ in their approach I can't avoid trying to get that bolt off any longer; .
    Just use the holder tool without the pin. The torque needed to get it lose can be extreme. You need a 3/4 27mm socket and a 3-4 feet breaker bar. 1/2 socket wont be strong enough.
    I'm sure many people managed it just with the pin, but after seeing the force needed I was very thankful for the folks here advising against it. Is it worth it to potentially destroy your engine just to save $90? You can probably sell the tool on Ebay fo $50 when not needed anymore. I think it's a no brainer to get it.
    Timing is the last thing you will do, you don't need to worry about it now. Plenty to do until you get there.
    I have used these DIYs:
    Forum: http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/876903
    Beisan: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
    TIS: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...mshaft/AcGa0Dm

    I prefer to go with TIS for every job whenever possible, but Beisan has some great ideas.

  14. #14
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    Use www.realoem.com.
    Open and enter the part number in the P/N search field. The program will delineate fitment.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #15
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    BMW Parts & Pricing

    Recently got into a conversation with a BMW fan who adamantly claims only BMW parts should be purchased when a part is needed; regardless of the sometimes ridiculously high costs of some parts with the BMW name attached. I believe this may be true for some areas of repair, (i.e. CPS and electronic parts) but not necessarily for all repairs. With that said, I am asking if there is a reliable OEM for a Timing Chain Kit, or is it worth piece parting the various parts needed, or should I spend the extra and only get BMW parts for this job. Same question for Hoses, Gaskets, and other common part which need replacing over time. No China parts is a given for me. Are there some companies that you just want to stay away from as a rule?

    I'm about to put some serious $$ into an old 2001 740i and want to know I'm getting the best value for the parts I need. I'm not trying to be "cheap". I would be interested in opinions on this subject as I imagine many have wondered the same thing. Look forward to your opinions.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #16
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    Since you have the valve covers off, take the opportunity to roll the engine clockwise until the numbered flats on the back end of the camshafts
    are up. It will save you a step later. This is close to #1 TDC.
    Do not install the pin yet, remove the pulley from the crank hub and install the Crank Holder Tool....a must have.
    I used a 3/4 3 foot breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe extension, with the crank tool secured to a floor jack. Still took a respectable amount of force
    to break it free. Get a new bolt of course.
    Once free, the hub will slide off. Before removal, use it to align the flywheel to pin hole and insert the timing pin. You are good to go from there.
    On assembly, once lower cover is installed, slide the hub back on the crank and install the dammit bolt, and just snug it. Wait until you have the engine timed,
    upper covers/valve covers installed, then pull the pin from the flywheel and reinstall the crank hub holder tool for the torqueing of the bolt.
    Slow and methodical, she will come together with rewards.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldroller View Post
    Since you have the valve covers off, take the opportunity to roll the engine clockwise until the numbered flats on the back end of the camshafts
    are up. It will save you a step later. This is close to #1 TDC.
    Do not install the pin yet, remove the pulley from the crank hub and install the Crank Holder Tool....a must have.
    I used a 3/4 3 foot breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe extension, with the crank tool secured to a floor jack. Still took a respectable amount of force
    to break it free. Get a new bolt of course.
    Once free, the hub will slide off. Before removal, use it to align the flywheel to pin hole and insert the timing pin. You are good to go from there.
    On assembly, once lower cover is installed, slide the hub back on the crank and install the dammit bolt, and just snug it. Wait until you have the engine timed,
    upper covers/valve covers installed, then pull the pin from the flywheel and reinstall the crank hub holder tool for the torqueing of the bolt.
    Slow and methodical, she will come together with rewards.
    +1!

  18. #18
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    I always buy from fcpeuro.com. get the best brand that makes sense... Only buy genuine if recommended or its the only option depending on the job you are tackling. ..

    Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by purplecty View Post
    I always buy from fcpeuro.com. get the best brand that makes sense... Only buy genuine if recommended or its the only option depending on the job you are tackling. ..

    Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
    Same here.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  20. #20
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    Same here, though I use ECS a lot too. FCP is good to check for brands cause they provide lifetime warranty. If FCP selling it it should be all-right.

  21. #21
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    BMW Parts & Pricing

    I find or have found in past experience the ECS Tuning offers better selection and pricing, though FPC’s ‘lifetime’ warranty is hard to beat.
    Search Engine www.bmwpnpc.com for best pricing, but first look at www.realoem.com for your part number requirements then use the SE.

    Example -
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0248

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by bluptgm3; 06-03-2018 at 08:33 AM.

  22. #22
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    OMFG BMW PNPC, WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE!?
    THANK YOU! hahahahh

    || 1995 740i || M60B40 || DUDMD || ̶o̶r̶i̶e̶n̶t̶ ̶b̶l̶u̶e̶ Mercedes Brilliant Blue Metallic || Style 168 Wheels 1" Spacers ||



  23. #23
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    You can go to multiple parts suppliers, most will have several brand names for each part, but I think they all offer and identify the OE supplier parts, meaning these brand names are suppliers to BMW. I usually will purchase those parts. The only time I buy a BMW branded part is if there is no other option. Remember, these are 15+ yr old cars, they will suck you dry of cash if you buy all BMW branded parts.

    Another way to save on OEM is to strip parts from the Junk Yards. Yes, they are used, but for most body parts or cosmetic items that are ridiculously expensive new, you can find OEM parts at the JY, clean them up and have a new looking part for 10% of the cost. Even engine parts are good if you inspect them closely. I'm currently looking for an M62 engine block with the rotating parts. That will be from some junk yard or from a used car I have a lead on.

    02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)

  24. #24
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    Also try http://furiousmethod.com/ to search multiple parts sites.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  25. #25
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    This might get deleted by mods, they are understandably cautious about discussing site sponsors...but anybody else thinks FCP lifetime warranty can bust the company?
    It's crying for abuse and I dont think the margins are that high in this business to make it possible.
    With that said, they have always replaced everything for me without any question, though anything that broke was under normal warranty so far.
    I'm really curious how this experience will end for them and wishing all the best of course.

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