Jerry's car project

[clarkitect]

So I put the PS fluid in and found two leaks at the connection points; mostly because of faulty washer installation. Fixed one. The second one is the infamous 19 mm connection on the PS pump running along the valve cover on the drivers side. The problem is "seating" the bolt into the hole. The damn connector will not lay flat, ( not to mention keeping the bottom washer from coming off while trying to do so) and with the limited amount of space, I can't get my hand in there and force it to lay flat. The hose itself is not very flexible and you need to really muscle it to get the connection bolt to fit flat to the hole. I have been able to fit the 19mm socket on the nut, but it won't matter if I can't seat the bolt. Looking for "tricks" to help resolve this ridiculous situation. Thanks.

2001 740i project car. Attachment 640077

It is so much easier if you loosen up the motor mount and lift the engine up to gain space. I screwed around with mine for like an hour before I decided to do that. Remove the two nuts, jack up the engine a couple inches and then you can get your hand in there.

[georgebest]

Yes, George, I have two E38's; same year, same model but the "newer" (restored) version is oriental blue with many "M" Sport Pkg upgrades, including the engine horsepower, Grom Audio BT3, Infinity BassLink Subwoofer, MSport Steering Wheel, Front struts and rear shocks replaced with Eibach/Bilstein B12 ProKit, Factory Bluetooth (TCU), Factory MKIV Navigation, MSport Steering Wheel rewrapped with Alcantara and 177,000 miles. By the way, it came in handy when trying to locate where the vacuum pipe/hose part 13321437692 was installed from the firewall to the MAF lower connection. The "M" 740i helped me locate the proper connection.

Also, I think I have you beat on how long it took me to replace and install the transmission mounts. Finally completed by drilling a hole in the passenger side disk underneath and using a crow bar to bend it loose enough to slide off. So, no more excuses....time to get this thing started and find out what quality work I did or didn't accomplish. Fluids to be replaced and fuse disconnect to fuel pump before starting to lubricate engine parts. After starting and it hopefully running alright, I want to replace the cooler heater exchanger hoses to the transmission.

That transmission mount is a b..ch! Among all the jobs I've done on my car that was the hardest (on one side only, other side was not an issue). Maybe replacing the glove box position holding strut comes close though (not the one moving it it up and down, that's easy).
The transmission cooler hoses are expensive but very easy to replace, dont forget to buy the plastic mounts as well. I've got them for like $2 from FCP, but they seem to increase the price since, I think you need 2 pairs. Found here cheap: https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/192...t-17201712210/ You also need a quick release tool for properly removing the old one.
Congrats on the new E38! It is always the best deal to buy a well maintained one, I have learnt this lesson the hard way

[Jerry Scholder]

So I have all the fluids in and fixed power steering links (bad crushers) and have one small (dribble) leak from the bottom of the water pump leaking down to oil pan area near power steering pump connections.

Question: Should I start the car and see what other stuff might be going on before addressing the leak. I removed the fuse from the fuel pump to hopefully lubricate areas before car starts. Am I doing this right and for the right reason? Hope to receive a reply. Thanks in advance.

[BillConn]

I’d probably fire it up (or attempt to) before digging back into it. Just in case you missed something else and would have needed to dive back in anyway. Just be mindful of the coolant leak and make sure it doesn’t start spraying coolant or something crazy.
Also, you are on the right track with the fuel pump fuse. Goal being that the motor can turn over a few times and help distribute the oil before she fires up.

[Jerry Scholder]

I’d probably fire it up (or attempt to) before digging back into it. Just in case you missed something else and would have needed to dive back in anyway. Just be mindful of the coolant leak and make sure it doesn’t start spraying coolant or something crazy.
Also, you are on the right track with the fuel pump fuse. Goal being that the motor can turn over a few times and help distribute the oil before she fires up.

Thanks for the reply Bill. I checked the leak later on in the day as I had a bucket under it and it had stopped leaking; only had about an ounce of liquid and could not see any sign of leaking. When I start it up I'm sure that will change. I was thinking the same thing about maybe having to do other things as well and might as well know what else might be a potential problem. I turned the key to the 2 position today to see if I would have any "messages", but didn't really think I would without actually starting it. Tomorrow is the real start-up after at least 100 hours of dedicated time.

[Jerry Scholder]

It is so much easier if you loosen up the motor mount and lift the engine up to gain space. I screwed around with mine for like an hour before I decided to do that. Remove the two nuts, jack up the engine a couple inches and then you can get your hand in there.

I have to tell you Clark; the three most important things I learned about these PS hoses is: 1.) Have extra crush washers available 2.) You have to jack it up a little for working space and 3.) that 19" hose connection on the steering gear box has to be oriented in a very unique way to seat on the threads and keep the bottom washer from falling off. The back of the hose has to be lifted up while the bolt is attempting to connect and that hose has to remain very still to seat properly; you then have to fit your fingers on top of the banjo bolt and thread enough for it to hold. Only then can you use the socket to tighten it. I was actually able to get it within 15 minutes after almost going insane on the first 6-10 times. At one point, I removed the connection on the PS pump and connected the gear box side first which gave me a little more play with orienting the banjo bolt to the threads. Thanks for your input.

[georgebest]

Fire it up! but before that turn the engine by hand to make sure that everything was put together correctly. Better you do it first not the starter motor.
You can deal with the water pump leak later. Have you used a new gasket for the pump? Are you sure that the old gasket was removed properly? Use a blade to remove residuals from the old one. It took some effort in my case.

[clarkitect]

I had a similar issue with getting the waterpump to seal properly. Post #120.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6#post29031626

[Jerry Scholder]

Fire it up! but before that turn the engine by hand to make sure that everything was put together correctly. Better you do it first not the starter motor.
You can deal with the water pump leak later. Have you used a new gasket for the pump? Are you sure that the old gasket was removed properly? Use a blade to remove residuals from the old one. It took some effort in my case.

Water pump issue somewhat expected; had a broken bolt and did not re-thread Don't remember why; probably couldn't get piece of bolt out. Not too worried about resolving. Could you refresh my memory on the 19" banjo bolt on the PS pump--are the crush washers still 16mm x 22mm? Still leaking a little with both new crusher bolts installed. Could banjo bolt be bad? Easy to access and change; just not sure what to try.

Tried starting and it would turnover, start for 2-3 seconds and then die. My first guess would be related to the cylinder 4 spark plug/coil connection from the wiring harness box to the injector, (has the small metal clips that have to be removed to take off the harness box). On that particular connector I "had" to remove it by a bit of cutting. This compromised the connection when re-installing and I couldn't be sure the connector seated into position. I really couldn't see the damn thing while attaching it and hoped for the best. If I had to do it over again I would remove the fuel rail for better access. Anyway to check that particular cylinder to verify if it is the problem? I really don't have any other guesses why it cuts out right away. I double checked to see that the fuses were replaced properly, but it did start, whereas it did not start with the fuses removed. I tried to attach a video with audio to show what occurred when attempting to start it. Good news is nothing blew up and no unusual loud noises and no major leakage anywhere; just the dribble from the water pump and small drip from that 19" Power Steering banjo bolt. What is the result of it being out of timing? When I can load the video of the car trying to start it will probably be more helpful.

Having trouble loading video of car starting; can someone refer me to instructions on this? Thanks.IMG_20181117_160512828.jpgIMG_20181117_160413485_HDR.jpgIMG_20181117_153915469.jpgIMG_20181117_153925788.jpg

[georgebest]

Sorry, never worked on PS pump, no idea. Those small injector clips: I have removed them all and never put them back, dont think it can disconnect while driving since everything is bolted down anyway.
Just guessing here: is your MAF connected? What you described was happening on mine when I forgot to connect the MAF plug. I think it's a good sign that is starting up even if only for a few seconds. How does it sound while running? Any error code or check engine light?
Just upload video to YouTube and put link here.

[Jerry Scholder]

I am attaching links to the videos of attempting to start the bmw 740i M62 tu. One is a false start to lubricate engine components and the other is a normal start attempt which it started but died out in a couple of seconds. Not sure how to send under "Manage Attachments"

https://youtu.be/udH6jj_F81Q
https://youtu.be/MWNJ5VDRvtE (false start)

[georgebest]

That didnt sound right, I mean the part where you gave it fuel. Maybe something in the front not well put together? Hard to say from video, where is that smoke(?) coming from? Or is that coolant?

[Jerry Scholder]

Most likely coolant from water pump, but didn't really see it as smoke. I'm thinking I'll disconnect the MAF and see if it makes it better. I did add that vacuum line to the MAF and wonder if that might be it. What about the connection issue from the wire harness box; would that cause a fuel issue. Seems like fuel isn't reaching the engine.
I know you're trying to help, but hopefully someone can give me more input to try and head in the right direction of what to check. Thanks for your prompt reply.

[Jerry Scholder]

Sorry, never worked on PS pump, no idea. Those small injector clips: I have removed them all and never put them back, dont think it can disconnect while driving since everything is bolted down anyway.
Just guessing here: is your MAF connected? What you described was happening on mine when I forgot to connect the MAF plug. I think it's a good sign that is starting up even if only for a few seconds. How does it sound while running? Any error code or check engine light?
Just upload video to YouTube and put link here.

I'll check again for any codes or check engine light...good idea. Hope to get more thoughts from the "experts".

[TheAngryBear]

The code idea is good but you aren’t likely to get anything unless it is start required (CKS, CMS, etc). When I had my massive vacuum leak it would stop the engine but never throw a code as it didn’t run for long enough until I got the other stuff sorted.
I would go down the list required for running:
1) Spark: ensure all the grounds are set and that you are getting spark from the plugs. You might want to pull and clean them.
2) Air: in this case you want to ensure it isn’t too much. Check for leaks and try the MAF test. Ensure the vacuum hoses are attached and routed correctly.
3) Fuel: check the fuel pressure that should be 50 iirc. Also ensure it is fresh fuel not the stuff in the tank when you started.
4) Compression: I would save for last but this could be it.


2001 750iL DD74441
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

[Jerry Scholder]

The code idea is good but you aren’t likely to get anything unless it is start required (CKS, CMS, etc). When I had my massive vacuum leak it would stop the engine but never throw a code as it didn’t run for long enough until I got the other stuff sorted.
I would go down the list required for running:
1) Spark: ensure all the grounds are set and that you are getting spark from the plugs. You might want to pull and clean them.
2) Air: in this case you want to ensure it isn’t too much. Check for leaks and try the MAF test. Ensure the vacuum hoses are attached and routed correctly.
3) Fuel: check the fuel pressure that should be 50 iirc. Also ensure it is fresh fuel not the stuff in the tank when you started.
4) Compression: I would save for last but this could be it.


2001 750iL DD74441
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

Great list to start with; I will get on it and systematically go down the list. Does anyone know what the bmw requirements are for the crush washers on the 19" banjo bolt to the power steering pump from the gearbox? I keep getting leaks on the bottom crush washer; using 16mm x 22mm from bmw dealer; they don't use the copper anymore. Are both washers the same size? Thanks.

[georgebest]

I think the first task here is figuring out the coolant issue and source of that strange sound.

[Jerry Scholder]

I think the first task here is figuring out the coolant issue and source of that strange sound.

Not sure what you mean about the coolant issue? Not sure what the strange sound is you heard. The car didn't seem to run long enough to hear a sound. Can you elaborate? Thanks.

[georgebest]

Not sure what you mean about the coolant issue? Not sure what the strange sound is you heard. The car didn't seem to run long enough to hear a sound. Can you elaborate? Thanks.

There appears to be a strange sound when you try to firing it up, doesnt sound normal. Sounded ok when you didnt have the fuel.
Coolant: some liquid shooting up in your video, I assumed it's coolant.
This is the video I'm talking about, maybe others will have a clue of what's going on:

[oldroller]

Jerry, if that was the very first fire-off the rattle was likely lifter noise as they pumped up. The next start
sounded much better.
But... I would pull the fan and locate the coolant leak and fix it. Refill, leaving the fan off and attempt a start,
to get oil circulating and establish a solid idle (or locate the source of the issue if it won't idle).

Just watch the temps, aux fan should kick in. Once all is well reinstall the fan.
Good going, she made some noise!

[Timm]

I'm sorry, but that clatter at the end of the first start was rather worrying - the very next thing I would do is take a compression test.

To my ears it sounded like it started fine - and then something happened mechanically that stopped the engine and will not let it start again - and that clatter sounded very much like valve-on-piston. I hate to say things like this and I hope I am wrong, but a compression test would be the next stage.

[georgebest]

Few times when we hope Timm was wrong

[Jerry Scholder]

Few times when we hope Timm was wrong

So, I ordered two new water pump gaskets, new copper washers for power steering hose, and misc. I believe the fuel pump fuse wasn't seated properly and wonder if that could possibly cause the start problem. I also will check the alternator for proper operation; positive meter lead to alternator connector and black to ground? What reading should I get? This alternator is water cooled...so no fuse? I shorted the alternator while disassembling it; removed engine positive wire, but forgot to remove trunk battery cables and got a light show temporarily. I'm wondering if I could have damaged it as it doesn't appear to have a fuse. I want to finish the gasket on the water pump before trying to start again. Felt like a real pro disassembling everything second time around. All connections seemed fine. Haven't checked other stuff until water pump is installed.

[georgebest]

Before you jump into water pump etc, please read what Timm said above.
I would put the engine into TDC position, remove the valve covers and see if engine timing banks still slide on properly. Meaning that the timing of the engine didnt move.
The noise on the video could be something much worse than a water pump not seated properly, sounded metal hitting metal. I wouldnt crank the engine until I am 100% sure it is timed properly. You can destroy the engine beyond repair, hopefully it hasnt happened yet.

[Jerry Scholder]

Before you jump into water pump etc, please read what Timm said above.
I would put the engine into TDC position, remove the valve covers and see if engine timing banks still slide on properly. Meaning that the timing of the engine didnt move.
The noise on the video could be something much worse than a water pump not seated properly, sounded metal hitting metal. I wouldnt crank the engine until I am 100% sure it is timed properly. You can destroy the engine beyond repair, hopefully it hasnt happened yet.

With all due respect George, before I consider it to possibly be the "timing", I would like to get some feedback on whether a bad alternator, a poorly replaced fuse for the fuel pump, or stale gas in the tank could be possibilities. I have to fix the water pump issue before I can start it again in any case, right? The video's lack of time and quality doesn't really give the viewer much to go on. Looking for second opinions from those reading this....