Hi all
New to the torums so bare with me 😁
I have bleed the clutch numerous times now both pressure bleeding and pressing fully down and opening bleeder screw. Still I have no full clutch disengagement when engine is running. Car goes in all gears when not running but the weird thing is that if I leave the pressure bleeder connected with pressure on and run engine all is well and have full operating......as soon as I take the pressure off with engine running and change gear it will not go in gear.
A yone could point me in the right direction would be great.
Cheers
Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission, and invert it so that the bleed screw is the highest point, THEN open the bleed screw, and allow it to gravity bleed, or pressure bleed, for 10 seconds. Then bolt it back to the transmission.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Well still no luck having tried this method did it 3 x....could this be just a worn clutch after bleeding so many times with all the methods tried? Car still goes in gear if I leave the pressure bleeder with pressure. Any help is grateful. Thanks everyone
It will have to be, then, that either your clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder is leaking. When you had the slave out of the transmission, did you see any sign of wetness around the rubber boot?
It's not a worn clutch, or the problem wouldn't respond to having the pressure bleeder hooked up.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Thanks for your ongoing help bmwdirtracer 👍🏼
I am 100% sure I don’t have any leaks though as when I have the pressure bleeder connected I have no fluid movement.
When I took the slave out of he gearbox this morning it was bone dry but can’t remember seeing a rubber boot was just a long rod with a rubber piece on the end of it.
Also I can’t see any leaks either, I have a really good hard pedal no spongy feeling what so ever.
Yeah I understand it can’t be a bad clutch but what if the fingers on the pressure plate are bad do you think this would cause the problem?
No fluid movement wh b a pressure bleeder is attached indicates a blockage somewhere. Remove the rubber hose and see if it’s blocked.
You said that the clutch works correctly with the pressure bleeder attached? For the clutch to work correctly, there HAS TO BE FLUID MOVEMENT.
Note that the clutch master cylinder can leak internally. If you see no fluid dripping from the slave, or bellhousing, I'd recommend replacing the master.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Sorry guys I have made you misunderstand me somehow. I ment I have no fluid movement (as in leaking wise) when I have the bleeder nipple closed. If I leave pressure on brake fluild level in the pressure bleeder does not go down hope this is more understanding.
As for the master leaking internally it does make sense a little biut would this not clause me to have a spongy pedal? Also would it bleed from the slave like mine does if the master was gone?
Cheers guys👍🏼
Sponginess comes from air in the system. (If you quickly pump the pedal twice, with no pressure bleeder, does the clutch work?)
My conclusion that it must be the master cylinder is based entirely upon the fact that the clutch work when you have the pressure bleeder attached. Admittedly, I've never seen that before, but it makes it pretty clear that your issue has to be hydraulic, rather than mechanical. And if you can't see any leakage anywhere, all that's left is the master, leaking internally, isn't it?
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
No the clutch still doesn’t work when I pump it but the pressurei always there on the pedal. Yes I think everything is pointing towards the master cylinder then. I have the car booked in at the garage in the morning so I will let you know what they say.
I just don’t get if the master has gone why I have a good stiff pedal. I would of thought the pedal would have had no resistance at all but I take it that it has just failed in a way that it still can push the fluid through the system but with a little leak on the cup inside the masters cylinder causing the fluid to back up behind the cup of the piston were it shouldn’t go...?
Last edited by Deanwar18; 05-30-2018 at 07:29 AM.
UPDATE: I ended up taking another look at the car at a job I did a few weeks back “vacuum pump oil leak repair” to find the vacuum hose from the brake booster which goes to the vacuum pump we’re it meets the vacuum pump I can spin the pipe around even though the jubilee clip holding the pipe tight to the pump but the connector on the pump is spinning and when I waggle the pipe I here suction coming from the gap you see on the picture around the nozzle!
Will this be cause of my clutch problemdoes anyone think..? I need to be sure I got a price at Euro car parts today £154 for new pump...?
Also I took a look at the new pump and it has changed a little we’re i have a problem area now looks like they have made the nozzle serviceable i.e new seals? And the nozzle is plastic and can be undone by a screw....?
Last edited by Deanwar18; 05-31-2018 at 02:17 PM.
If your problem were the brakes, this might have something to do with it. The clutch has no vacuum involved.
The only culprit I can think of is the clutch master cylinder; if it were my own car, that's what I would replace.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Ok then I will buy a new clutch master cylinder and get it fitted see if it sort this problem out....it’s so annoying just want my car back on the road 🙃
changing the master doesn’t look to bad of a job here on the forums so I am going to have a go myself. will let you know what happeneds....fingers crossed haha
beers
Agreed w Dirtracer about the clutch master. They can leak internally, without any external leakage, fluid just blows past the piston seal instead of out to the slave.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Well I have been at this master cylinder a while now. Everything is disconnected apart from the feeder hose connecting to the resovior....it’s well tight on there and I have no room to move about with the master cylinder at all can barley get pliers to it....so frustrating, wonder if any of you guys can help me out please.
thanks in advance
heres a picture too.....
[IMG][/IMG]
Last edited by Deanwar18; 06-08-2018 at 05:31 PM.
Sometimes, it's best to just buy some of the special BMW brake hose, and replace it with the master. This would be especially true because your piece of hose is very damned ugly....that yellowish deposit could signal leakage.
I really hate working up under the pedal cluster....there's no room to even move. But worst of all would be going in there TWICE. Note please that this braided hose is special....it used to be blue, lately they use grey....but it is specifically for brake fluid. Do NOT buy Autozone crap. (Oops....England, sorry: Do not buy stuff from the local auto parts store.......)
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
After being hard at work over the weekendI fitted the master cylinder to no avail. I still have the exact same problem so take it the master cylinder wasent the problem.
I have taken another look at my slave cylinder and to be honest it doesnt look that good. The push rod it really sloppy and the first 1/4 inch of movement there is no resistance really and when I fully push in I can here sounds (popping) hard to describe really coming from inside the slave itself!!!
also when I have fully depressed the slave it travels back out normally up untill about half way of travel then it literally jumps to fully open.....this can’t be right can it?
I have a new slave on order so this could be the only thing now is this correct?
Thanks for all your help
Thrid week with no car lol
Last edited by Deanwar18; 06-10-2018 at 09:27 PM.
Ended up taking the car to the garage now after channging both master and slave cylinders, they are saying it’s the clutch.
Master and slave obviously a waste of money and a lot of time and now more bills to pay
great forum this..? Yeah I bet
Last edited by Deanwar18; 06-17-2018 at 01:11 PM.
it's amazing when people complain about free advice.....
'95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!
Really, Dean....you were the one that insisted everything worked fine when the pressure bleeder was attached. The pressure bleeder being connected can only affect the hydraulics, not the mechanicals. PLUS, you indicated this all began when you bled the clutch.
Given the information YOU presented, hydraulics were the only conclusion. You're the only one who can lay hands on the car, or describe what's happening. Hell, you were going to throw a vacuum pump at the damned thing!
Garbage in, garbage out.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Yep Shadow, truly unbelievable,
but the verdict...I mean diagnosis is not verified yet,
as any garage can say or guess anything,
but the proof is in the pudding, so to speak.
Post back when this garage has dropped the trans and clutch,
because from your descriptions, I'm still betting on a defective slave.
I hold my hands up I don’t mean to come across as ungrateful because I am really not that sort of guy, but I was on the route with hydraulic system because I was advised to but yes I did totally didn’t give you all a good enough discription of what was happening and I have made everyone including myself misunderstand so I am really sorry about that.
Anyways I have left it to the professionals and they have sent me a lovely picture of my gearbox underneath the car and take a look for yourself of all the fluff inside that hole in the gearbox.......yes that is a load of fluff sort of material is the clutch disc which has collapsed this is there exact words and they say about oil leaking on the disc causing this.
I did the vacuum pump repair which if I am correct is directly above the box..? So his must be the oil was coming from I couldn’t even believe there was stilll oil on the picture they sent. There must of been a lot of lying oil from the leak or I just didn’t take enough time to do a thorough clean.
C809BFE2-83BB-4C26-8D27-53A60181ED94.jpeg
Well at least you have visual confirmation of the problem.
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