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Thread: Dash Cam Hard Wiring? (and a subwoofer issue)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Millis, MA
    Posts
    147
    My Cars
    2002 325xi

    Dash Cam Hard Wiring? (and a subwoofer issue)

    I don't know enough about how the electrical in these cars function to be able to do what I want with this new dash cam I bought. I bought a Rexing V1 and it comes with a car charger and a USB cord, and both are pretty short wires, and this car does NOT cut power to the cigar lighter port when I turn the car off. I also need the port to charge my phone sometimes since I drive a lot with the navigation on my phone for my job.

    While yes, I could go out and buy a car charger adapter that has 2 USB ports instead of one, I think it'd be much better of a solution to hardwire the dash cam into a fuse box. So I have a question or two about the electrical in my 2002 325xi.
    - Do the fuse boxes still receive power from the car battery even when the car is off?
    - Which fuse box would be better to hardwire the dash cam to? The one above the glove box, correct?
    - What are all the neat little wire management tricks associated with my car?
    - And if someone could recommend a hardwiring kit for my dash cam, that'd be cool. If not, I can just google some.

    And then I have a problem going on with my subwoofer I think. At louder volumes, and more powerful bass from the music, I hear some nasty rattling or popping sounds coming from behind me. I'm not sure which the sound is (rattling or popping), but I do know that it's quite annoying when I want to turn up the volume on my music. The stereo system has OEM speakers and subwoofer from what I can tell, and then an aftermarket head unit. The 6-CD changer in the trunk doesn't exist anymore (discovered that when I did the suspension).

    As usual, any helpful advice would be awesome.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Arlington, VA
    Posts
    9,933
    My Cars
    2018 BMW M240i
    The subwoofer problem is distortion, likely the amp is being over-driven.

    The fuse panel
    is divuded ibto 2 sections. One section has power at all times, well as long as the battery is connected. The other half has power only when the ignition is in the accessory or run positions. I take it that you want to use a fuse in the section that has power only when the ignition is in either the accessory or run positions. Do you have the fuse panel card that lists the circuits, the fuse amperage and the fuse location? If not, google it. Then find a circuit/function/system that has power only when the ignition is in the accessory or run position. The row of fuses that that fuse sits in has have power only when the ignition is in the accessory or run position.

    Now, you have 3 options. One is to go to the dealer to buy the electrical parts that you install to use an unused fuse slot. The installation will require you to remove the fuse panel. The next option is to buy an electrical part that you plug into a used fuse slot that allows you to provide power to the circuit/function/system and to your camera. The last option is to find a wire in the sunroof controls area. The witlribg will be there even if your car doesn’t have a sunroof. Use a meter to find the wire that has power only when the ignition switch is in the accessory or run position.

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