E39 issues with throttle (My First BMW)

[iShipwreck]

Hello! First off I JUST bought my very first BMW yesterday! I know I know, thank you! I appreciate your support. So far I love the thing and I've only driven it once.

I believe it was a steal for how much the guy was selling it for, but I suppose with this first round of repairs, only time will tell...

Trouble codes: P1580, P0101, P1423, P1421

I already checked many sources and the first thing I want to do is test and possibly replace both the MAF and the TPS as well as give the throttle body a good cleaning. However, I can't find any replacement TPS for my ride. I tell google what I want, google doesn't understand and gives me TPS for 600 other BMW's or randos. When I go to auto sites and manually search, nothing "fits" my car or they don't have any Throttle Position Sensors...

I have no idea where to get a replacement TPS that fits. Is there any place online that you guys go for parts? Anywhere you can recommend me to look? Are the TPS's I'm finding actually fit and they are lying to me saying it won't?? idk

*2000 BMW 528i*

Thanks

[computiNATEor]

Welcome! You should get acquainted with the common BMW resources.

RealOEM.com is great for part numbers and simple diagrams. Plug in your BMW's serial number (the last 7 digits of the VIN) to find your exact parts. The prices listed are usually out of date, but it's a great resource.

NewTIS.info is good for DIYs and torque specs, but it's written for technicians. The forums generally have pretty good DIYs.

BeisanSystems.com has good info on VANOS problems and good suspension DIYs.

The common retailers that folks around here use are ECS Tuning, FCP Euro, Bavarian Autosport, AutohausAZ, and Pelican Parts. There are always dealers, but they will cost you an arm and a leg.


Also, it took me two seconds to type "2000 BMW 528i throttle position sensor" into google and find the part. If you can't google things, you really shouldn't own this car. These require constant maintenance and attentiveness. They're no Toyota Camry.

Here's the TPS: http://bfy.tw/IINb

[pleiades]

If that's a 2000 model-year 528i, the throttle body is the hybrid version (DME control plus physical cable) that has a couple of potentiometers inside, no separately replaceable TPS units.

iShipwreck, one day of ownership? Did you also get bumped into engine failsafe mode when the throttle error happened?

As far as I know, the best you can do with the throttle body errors is replace the throttle body with new or a used one that's still working. The pots inside are fairly well sealed and require taking the TB apart just to reach them and try to clean with a good contact cleaner. It's not really that these TBs are exceedingly sensitive, it's that they don't need much to be pushed off the cliff when they're old and on their way out.

If you got the car for a steal, good, because with almost all used e39s you need to budget a couple grand to get them back into reliable running shape.

One thing you can try with the TB is to unplug it from the harness, "reset" that round connector, spray some contact cleaner on the connector and socket pins, and reattach. Sometimes it's that connector that's causing the issues, and sometimes people who remove throttle bodies don't know how to reset and properly re-attach the connector.

Take a look at about the eighth photo down, at the following link.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ration/BcsR8iI


You can try cleaning the sensor inside your MAF with a MAF-specific cleaner.

Your last two codes have to do with the secondary air pump (SAP). They won't knock the car into failsafe but a bad throttle body or MAF can.

[computiNATEor]

Worth noting: I went to a local junkyard, and they had a couple 528s. I bet you could find a throttle body there, maybe even a couple, and get a working part.

[iShipwreck]

Oh holy xxxx you're hilarious! I wish I had wit and charm like you..

Anyways, thanks for the sources for parts. I know how to google things and I most certainly did. The issue was that the results it was giving me were indeed Throttle Position Sensors, but none of them will fit my car. Every single one I click on says "this part will NOT fit your car". I, too, can find many TPS's, but I'm looking for the one that fits a 2000 BMW 528i. Thanks.

- - - Updated - - -

If that's a 2000 model-year 528i, the throttle body is the hybrid version (DME control plus physical cable) that has a couple of potentiometers inside, no separately replaceable TPS units.

iShipwreck, one day of ownership? Did you also get bumped into engine failsafe mode when the throttle error happened?

As far as I know, the best you can do with the throttle body errors is replace the throttle body with new or a used one that's still working. The pots inside are fairly well sealed and require taking the TB apart just to reach them and try to clean with a good contact cleaner. It's not really that these TBs are exceedingly sensitive, it's that they don't need much to be pushed off the cliff when they're old and on their way out.

If you got the car for a steal, good, because with almost all used e39s you need to budget a couple grand to get them back into reliable running shape.

One thing you can try with the TB is to unplug it from the harness, "reset" that round connector, spray some contact cleaner on the connector and socket pins, and reattach. Sometimes it's that connector that's causing the issues, and sometimes people who remove throttle bodies don't know how to reset and properly re-attach the connector.

Take a look at about the eighth photo down, at the following link.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ration/BcsR8iI


You can try cleaning the sensor inside your MAF with a MAF-specific cleaner.

Your last two codes have to do with the secondary air pump (SAP). They won't knock the car into failsafe but a bad throttle body or MAF can.

Yes it went into failsafe.

I'll try to clean the connectors and the MAF.

Thank you for your insight

[pleiades]

Also, if you have the time, take a look at this thread. It has a fair amount of useful info if you want/need to perform some basic electrical diagnostics on the harness... Lots of us have been through this.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...istance-values

[iShipwreck]

Also, if you have the time, take a look at this thread. It has a fair amount of useful info if you want/need to perform some basic electrical diagnostics on the harness... Lots of us have been through this.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...istance-values

Thanks pleiades, I appreciate the help.

[Aussie528iT]

iShipwreck,
Your car has a twin vanos (variable inlet and exhaust valve timing) 2.8 litre M52TU engine. It is not the same as the earlier single vanos M52 engine.
The block is different, the head is different, the engine management system is different and they are similar to the later M54 engine, not the earlier M52.
The M52TU and M52 engines are sometimes erroneously lumped together as being the same which they are not.
Many auto parts lists are wrong for the M52TU engine, many don't show the M52TU at all unless it is for the E46 3 series, and many non BMW auto spares places don't understand the difference.
The car has a fly by wire throttle body but the pedal position sensors are not at the pedal. They are internal to the throttle body and are activated by the throttle cable.
The M52TU is the ancestor of the M54 not the descendant of the M52.

Hope this helps

[sleuth255]

Do NOT buy a cheap knockoff MAF if you decide to replace it. Siemens makes the OEM MAF iirc and it costs major $$$ for a reason, so replace your MAF only when you are sure its the culprit.

[iShipwreck]

iShipwreck,
Your car has a twin vanos (variable inlet and exhaust valve timing) 2.8 litre M52TU engine. It is not the same as the earlier single vanos M52 engine.
The block is different, the head is different, the engine management system is different and they are similar to the later M54 engine, not the earlier M52.
The M52TU and M52 engines are sometimes erroneously lumped together as being the same which they are not.
Many auto parts lists are wrong for the M52TU engine, many don't show the M52TU at all unless it is for the E46 3 series, and many non BMW auto spares places don't understand the difference.
The car has a fly by wire throttle body but the pedal position sensors are not at the pedal. They are internal to the throttle body and are activated by the throttle cable.
The M52TU is the ancestor of the M54 not the descendant of the M52.

Hope this helps

Awesome, yeah this helps a bit. Makes sense on why I find lots of videos for my car but the engine looks different. Thanks

[geargrinder]

Great help from pleasetheleadies and Ozzo. Note in PL's link that this particular weirdybeardy throttle body is generally called the "MDK" in 52TU circles, and that can help you w/ the ol' googlin' as well as discussions to be sure people know exactly what you're talking about.

[iShipwreck]

I took the throttle body off this weekend and found there was a tab on the throttle body that was broken. It apparently controls the mechanical movement of the valve and "connects" to the part the electrically controls the valve. I put a screw though the broken piece to act as a temporary fix until my new throttle body gets here. Should be in just a couple days.

I also did some test driving and even took her on the freeway. No codes, didn't go into limp mode, and I was able to take her over 80pmh for the first time since I've owned her. Couldn't go over 60mph before with the throttle issue.

The MAF I found out was not only a knock-off but it was a remanufactured part as well. That will be replaced in the immediate future for sure.

Thank you everyone for your help and pointing me in the right direction!

[pleiades]

Your car might have an adjustable "stop" underneath the accelerator pedal to prevent too much tension in the cable once the sprung cable spool hits that "stop" screw on the throttle body at full throttle.

[iShipwreck]

Your car might have an adjustable "stop" underneath the accelerator pedal to prevent too much tension in the cable once the sprung cable spool hits that "stop" screw on the throttle body at full throttle.

I know exactly what you mean. I should probably check that out and see if I can adjust it as to not snap another tab off the new throttle body in case that was the cause.

Thanks pleiades!

[pleiades]

I know exactly what you mean. I should probably check that out and see if I can adjust it as to not snap another tab off the new throttle body in case that was the cause.

Thanks pleiades!

Here's a link to what (I think...) I'm talking about .... I did it so long ago can't remember the details ....

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...k-down/BvfV5Rg

[geargrinder]

Nice. Love it when stuff gets fixed.

Huh! Yeah I wonder if you can 'overpower' the tab if the cable isn't adjusted right... that'd explain the failure.

[iShipwreck]

Here's a link to what (I think...) I'm talking about .... I did it so long ago can't remember the details ....

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...k-down/BvfV5Rg

Yup that's it. I'll have to get the ball-and-chain to help me with the adjustment. I'll probably have to adjust that stop and the throttle cable linkage simultaneously so I'll need someone to step on the accelerator for me.

Nice. Love it when stuff gets fixed.

Huh! Yeah I wonder if you can 'overpower' the tab if the cable isn't adjusted right... that'd explain the failure.

Yeah I love it when things work out. So far that's the only mechanical thing I have found seriously wrong with the car. Other than that it's just the MAF and the interior that needed a good cleaning. $1200 for the car seems like a really good deal to me. I barely needed to do anything to get her working nicely. Just preventative maintenance now..

[pleiades]

....Other than that it's just the MAF ....

$1200 for one of these? I'm in shock but I guess I shouldn't be. I overpaid for mine 8 years ago, but in my local market that was still cheaper than Honda Accords of the same age and mileage, so at the time I thought I was getting a deal. Now a bit wiser, I realize there's no such thing as a deal along the I-5 corridor.

On the MAF, should you decide you want to replace it.... If going used, junkyard 2.0, 2.3, 2.5, and 2.8 liter M52TU and M54 engines in the e46 cars apparently use the same Siemens MAF, as does the Hyundai Sonata 2000-year model with the V6. I've been running a "genuine" Hyundai part in my car, with no issue. Siemens part # I forget but I believe it's practically identical maybe with an extra letter at the end. I bought mine new, paid about $90 for it, but it was from a vendor on ebay. Someone in S. Korea was selling through US ebay for awhile too, at about that price. Lots cheaper than the "for BMW" alternative if going new. If you go junkyard hunting and can't seem to find any M52 or M54 e46 320, 323, 325, 328 cars or an 528i that still have their MAF, scan the yard for a Hyundai ....

[iShipwreck]

Yup $1200 is all it took to get the title. I'm pretty sure the guy didn't know how to fix the issues he was experiencing and cheap parts weren't working so he decided to get rid of the car. Little did he know all he had to do was stick a screw into the throttle body and he would have been good to go for a while. Lol.

I found a Siemens oem MAF for about $170 at FCP Euro or something like that. It was saying something like "$318 off". I'm good to spend a decent amount on quality parts just as long as they don't run into 4 digits.. At least until I can save more.. Thanks for the Hyundai tip, I'll keep that in mind for sure. I actually looked up the local "u pick" junkyard inventory and they have a couple 528's that will work. Let's see what I can scavenge off them things.

[bjornk]

Here's a link to what (I think...) I'm talking about .... I did it so long ago can't remember the details ....

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...k-down/BvfV5Rg

I’ve been reading up and this before last ditch effort to drop 60O plus on new mdk. Three qs

In Bentley, there is a short description of this but says “faulty throttle adjustment values must be reset using the bmw service tester displus, MoDic, Gt1 or equivalent. “ 130-38 vol 1

1. Is this the same as resting adaptations in inpa?
2. Do you think adjustment of this could trigger eml?
3. Are you still vouching for cleaning mdk? Is yours still going after simple cleaning?




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[pleiades]

...
1. Is this the same as resting adaptations in inpa?
2. Do you think adjustment of this could trigger eml?
3. Are you still vouching for cleaning mdk? Is yours still going after simple cleaning?
....

1. Without double-checking a Bentley I can't say for sure, but if you need to reset MDK adaptations, INPA will do it for you very quickly.
2. If you mean adjustment of the throttle cable, no it shouldn't trigger a fault.
3. You are referring to my thread about my MDK struggles, yes? I cleaned (with contact cleaner spray) my old MDK's potentiometers after fully disassembling the thing, but I did not re-install that MDK. I installed a used blue-label model from ebay instead, without doing anything to it. That one has been working fine. The original MDK is sitting in a box on my garage shelf; hopefully I won't need to test whether cleaning made any difference.

[540i"A"Canuck]

Hi iShipwreak:
Well, 1st of all welcome to BMW "Ownership/Poor-house"!! I bought a used 2000 BMW E39 540i (Man Date: 10/99) M62 a few yrs ago now, for around $5,000 CDN and I've probably spent another $6,000 just in used and new parts. I've done 95% of all repairs and installs (Even-though I am not a mechanic), and one of the main problems I've had so far has been my car is in "Engine Failsafe Mode"; so most of my research/focus of correcting this issues has led me down the Fuel system, from the Tank all the way to the Engine (MAF, Throttle Body, New Plugs, Used Fuel Sender/Pumps, Intake Body/Manifold Spray Cleaned and Fuel Cleaners added). Unfortunately, still have the the "Engine Failsafe Mode", but the Car performs Fine (Will do 260 km/h+) and (Will Drift the rear), when pushed!! The only part I haven't gotten to yet is the Accelerator Sender/Potentiometer, as my M62TU has Ride-by-wire, NO Cable to open Throttle Body Butterfly!! As with your 528i, since your Car has both cable and Ride-by-wire, my only suggestion was checking the "Accelerator" Pedal!! But, from what I read you seem to have found the cause of your "Issue/Thread"; which began your journey on here. Safe Travels and hope you don't run into many $$$ problems, so you can enjoy your 528i..;-)

P.S- Educate yourself on all aspects of Auto Repairing/Care; (Mechanical, Electrical, Fuel System, Steering...using a Code Scanner..etc)!! Theses older Cars need a lot of TLC!!

[geargrinder]

I can nearly guarantee that FAILSAFE on an M62TU 540 is 99.9% gonna be the throttle body, or, the related wiring (include the DME connector in that), with the pedal & wiring maybe as a far 2nd place contender. It ain't gonna be the "fuel system" or any of that other jazz.

Failsafe is a little different on different motors since they run entirely different computers and software. General concepts are the same but specifics are different. That said, OP's MDK is a known trouble spot for the M52's with age and he seems to have sorted it.