Member
Hi All,
I have a curious issue with an 1996 E36 318IS. Both front windows will not go down. They will also not drop and lift when the doors are opened or shut. It is on both sides which is unusual. When you press the buttons you can hear it click but nothing else. Central locking is working but the remote keyfob needs a new battery. I have checked the fuses and they are all ok.
I find it bizarre that it for both sides: surely both motors have not gone?
Any help appreciated.
Senior Member
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Hello and welcome to the forum! Take a look at the link below to one of our site's DIY tech articles on the E36 window regulator and motor. Let us know if you have any questions or if we can assist with any future part needs. Hope this helps you out a bit and best of luck!
https://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tec...er-Windows.htm
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Member
Thanks. I will look into replacing them but it is just seems strange that both do not work. There is no noise form the motor or movement in the regulators
Member
Right, Fuse 14 looked fine but replaced it and passenger is now working. Motor probably gone on drivers.
Member
Well that is a first! I hit the drivers side motor with a hammer and the drivers side is now working.
Member
Assuming fuse 14 is for both window motors:
Perhaps the passenger motor is on its way out and it shorted which, killed the fuse, and in the process disabled the driver side motor..
Let's hope the passenger side motor will continue working now.. If it shorts again, you know where to look.. You could disconnect the cable connector from the motor if it happens again and then look for a passenger side motor..
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
Member
The brushes are probably worn and were stuck causing an open circuit. By hitting it they may have snapped back against the commutator. Might work a long time, it might last another week.Originally Posted by HuxleyHound
'94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
'93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
'89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
'04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
'05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
'85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
Member
Hahahahahaha! That's how I work on my E30!
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