I figured the E30 handled the power fine. The 330 bits are definitely more up to the task than anything E30-wise.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Yeah, I broke many an axle before I switched to the M3 setup, and hell I still broke one of those last comp. They'll last ok if you don't launch / burnout / shift hard, but one dig on some decent tires and RIP. I also broke the diff cover bolt on the non M setup on a hard shift and have heard of others with the same issue.
*sigh* back to figuring out how to get an LSD in the M3 diff without spending $2k.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
So the ending solution to 300+hp for axles is to swap a full m3 rearend into the car? Subframe out to the hubs? and that's good for 300-400 relatively reliably?
Is it nonsense to think about custom shafts that are more beefy? At the same time, I'd rather break an axle than blow up a diff...
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
I mean I put 400wtq into my E30 diff. The 330 also uses the 188mm so I refuse to believe it won't take that abuse. I dunno about the axles though. I never snapped any E30 axles and the 330 ones look TONS beefier.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Maybe it's just street driving mine around welded that truly destroys them. I don't have the funds for an LSD yet....
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
What the hell dyno were you on where you had 400hp and never broke e30 axles? My buddy is barely pushing 300 in his SR e30 and he’s snapping axles all the time. I’m going through stock M3 axles like nobodies business and I only have 375.
dynopack. I forget what else I was on when I hit 500whp. *shrugs* I don't have my car dumped, I run a sprung clutch, and I don't have a welded diff. I think all of those things are gentler on axles.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
OK yeah, those things read ridiculously high.
E46 axles are hollow. The e36 axles are smaller diameter but significantly stronger since they're solid. I have DSS axles being made for my car as we speak, hopefully that solves the issue for good.
I always thought hollow meant stronger. Am I wrong on that one?
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
https://physics.stackexchange.com/qu...e-diameter-o-d
huh, I've got no idea then. Jeepster went through like 4 seasons (including launching at the drag strip on hoosier slicks) on his stock e36m3 axles before one let go, and he makes like 80 more ft/lbs than me.
ugh. Decisions decisions. Really it comes down to LSD and ratio options. I can get an X3 diff and transfer over my LSD from the 330 diff for pretty cheap. With the M3 diff, I can get an E39 M5 diff for 1k and make a true LSD out of it. OR I can just keep the M3 diff ratio as is and just slap in OS Giken LSD. All said and done I'd be 1k+ deep in any of the M3 options. Probably 3 or 400 into the 330 diff.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
isn't the OS Giken alone like $1500? I got a quote from Thayer (Bimmerdiffs) to build mine in to a 4.10 with an OSGiken and it was right around $4000. Hence why I run a 3.6 Welded now. The reason I opted for the M3 stiff is (at least at the time) there was no upgraded axle options for non M. If you wanted something from DSS or InsaneShafts or whoever it was all M3 only.
Thayer doesn't build diffs anymore. Otherwise I would go with them. The OS Giken unit is something like $1800. I think I can live with the M3 3.64 ratio and just throw the OS Giken in. probably my best option even though building the 330 diff would be cheaper.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
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