I'd try a wash and then a medium clay bar. Some elbow grease (and lots of clay lube) should probably get it off. You could try goo gone too but I'm not sure it'll be strong enough. Can't hurt though.
If you're careful, a flat razor would do it too. But big scratching risk, if you car about that.
Personally, If I couldnt cscrub/ clay it off/heatgun and scrape with my nails off, I'd probbaly razor it off if it looked like ass. but my car's all scratched ti shhit from 17 years of complete neglect and shitty washes that destroyed the paint
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
Yea it's a 17 year old car. Not like I care THAT much. As long as it passes the 50/50 rule I'm mostly ok.
Also the stock rear 330 calipers are definitely NOT enough to lock up the rears. So I'm happy I figured that out.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I agree. Takes quite a yank to lock them up, I even have the larger diameter willwood MC on my kit, with full stainless lines. It DOES lock them, but not as easily as I'd like. Are you going to switch them out asap?
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
Well I'm shoving in the LS2 this winter with a full M3 rear end so... I'm probably gonna hold off. Plus I'm half concerned my welds are going to pop. I got the hard stuff done so this shouldn't be so bad to reweld with the M3 arms off the car.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
The stock calipers are fine at locking the rear wheels, you just need good pads and a 5/8" master.
Well my fucking dumb ass welded over the wheel speed sensors and now my freaking car is stuck in limp mode. I had a horrible event trying to drive around it. Probably also have a vac leak. Man that LS swap is looking more and more appealing.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Joined the 5k rpm limiter club ehh
I had my tuning laptop so I got rid of that but limp mode cuts timing too
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
This is so weird. I've never had any issue with this before. '97 328, '00 328, '01 325 - All I ever had to do was remove relays(e36) or unplug a wheel speed sensor(e46).
Andy Sapp used to have an article up somewhere about the wheel speed sensors on E46s and them putting his car in limp but I can't find it now.
E46s are weird, manual swapping them locks them in to a 5k redline / limp as well.
- - - Updated - - -
IIRC, unplugging one wheel speed sensor works. unplugging both rears triggers the mode protomor is talking about.
Well the mounts I got were a one piece for the whole caliper. So I'm cutting out the center section to reaccess the hole for the sensors. So far one side came along well enough that I could fit the sensor back in. Looks like I might be able to do both! I just need some time now to finish it. I'll take pix if my welding doesn't look like crap. I think I might be one of the few who choose to weld on brackets instead of eliminating the stock ebrake.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
20180922_061648.jpg
So next time I do this, I'd weld it in such a way that you don't need to cut anything up on the sensor. But since I had to cut out the center section, I wound up having to JB weld the left wheel speed sensor into place. I had to have the car in gear on jack stands and futz with the sensor until it reliably registered on the speedo. Since I couldn't find a wheel speed readout in PA Soft, I'm just going to assume the right side is wrong and live with it. Going to attempt to make this hydro setup work because I'm so close. It's grinding a bit on both sides so I'm definitely off a bit. Lessons learned for next time.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Wow that kit seriously goes right over the sensor? So people's options are either lose their stock parking brake or lose their speedometer and cruise control.
There's a V1 kit that's just 2 ears. I think I'll do that next time so I can retain that sensor. I mean, if you plan ahead, it's not really THAT much trouble. It's definitely hard to fit everything in properly though.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Did a parking lot event this past sunday. The car misfires when hot so I was fighting the car until it just wouldn't run anymore. My secondary calipers also rubbed against some of my drift wheels. Getting kind of miffed at the car lately
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Misfire is separate from your speed sensor issue right?
I'm sure it's something simple - intake boot leak, plugs, coilpacks / cracked boot.
I've heard a bad cam sensor can cause intermittent misfires as well.
Yea this is a separate issue. Only happens when the car is track hot. Misfires on random cylinders too. I did a smoke test and got a small tiny vac leak. I'm just not sure if I want to track it down and spend more cash when I'm pulling the motor after the next event.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Googling says cam position sensors. So F it let's throw some money at that and try to find a vac leak.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
How old is your fuel pump? Maybe running low on pressure? Heat amplifies that.
Fuel pump is new. An OE not OEM brand, but new. I think I remember the PO having a misfire issue too and said that replacing a few coils did the trick.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Heat increases resistance in electrical systems and creates expansion.
Cam sensor and plug boots would be my go to's.
If they don't affect it, maybe its a tiny headgasket leak? Undetected until the head expands and drops compression?
I'll swap out with my spare coil packs. I'm pretty sure that isn't my issue but I have them lying around so why not you know?
I'm hesitant to say head gasket just because the misfire is on random cylinders. But I've seen weirder things.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Should update more often. The cam position sensor fixed the misfire so that's good. Now I'm moving onto the eventual LS swap. I have an m3 rear end but I might just swap ring and opinions on the 330 diff to a 3.9 or something. I think itll handle 500whp. The m3 rear isn't a bad idea but I'd need to find an m5 lsd, then build that. Which is about as expensive as getting an OS giken and keeping the 3.6 ratio.
No I'm not gonna weld it.
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Maybe the dif can handle that power but I don’t see the input or output bearings handling that for too long - and the axles won’t be handling that either. Maybe if it’s an unstalled automatic, but definitely not a manual.
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