I think any E36 will work. But the stock one was at such an odd angle, I couldn't put the sway link on the SLR control arm. You COULD link it back to the strut but that'll cause so much bs
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
You have to run an e36 non-m stock or whiteline bar with the slr adjustable end links. I would recommend the whiteline bar. I have the stock non-m and it doesn't fit very well. The end links are at maximum adjustment and most likely binding. But it works.
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...=BBF38Z&sq=886
Not too bad. I'm cheap though. lol. I'll buy your sway bar off you, then you can buy the whiteline one lol. The thicker whiteline sway would make up for the fact it's now linked to the control arm. But man, I'd run back into problems with hitting the wheel on teh sway.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
With the control arm mounted links on the SLR control arms you will need to e run a E36 non M style front bar.
FML $240 for the whiteline... Any chance I can get $239 for my stock one from you?
I plan on seeing how it is with no swaybar for at least a single event to see how it does. I'd love a swaybar, but it seems like I'd be $400 deep into a whiteline before it was on the car, and that's a whole weekend of reg money!
Yeah I'm thinking the same way. If my car drives fine, I can back burner it for now. It's a fine tuning thing and not a necessity.
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I use no sway bars on my car and I am not sure if my car would feel better with a front bar. I bought my kit before SLR was putting sway link tabs on the control arms as standard so I've never even tried driving it with a front bar although maybe why the car hides the lack of front bar so well is the nearly magic AST 5100 coilovers that are on the car. They really are amazing at body motion control.
I went through hell trying to fit a sway bar with the SLR, E36 non M didn't fit, E46 non M didn't fit, finally messaged Chelsea and he told me to get the E46 whiteline bar, which sort of fit but I still had to drill an extra hole in each side for the end links to attach to it (bimmerworld adjustable end links)
Was the E36 non M sway even... close to fitting?
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
If I recall it lined up, but didn't reach far enough back in the wheel well to get to the end link tabs if that makes sense. I had the bimmerworld endlinks at like a 45* angle tilted forward and maxed out length wise and they still didn't reach.
The E46 bar was the right length, but had a funky twist in it where the end link attaches that prevented the end link from attaching.
The whiteline bar was the length of the E46 bar, but with the funky twist taken out.
Yea that very much sounds like more work than it's worth. No sway bar for now it is.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I was without one for 2 seasons, but it made a HUGE difference adding the front one back.
I'm just not overly fond of having to mod stuff to fit. I wonder if I can get a blade style sway bar to fit.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
So apparently massive angle and rubbing on the frame found the exact spot to cut the front tires. Looks on the edge of "I should get new front tires". Ugh. So i slapped on some 5mm non hubcentric spacers and tightened down some bolts on the suspension. Now I get random vibrations when on the highway. Not throttle dependent, not speed dependent. Just... random. It'll vibrate for ~5 seconds to ~15 seconds then go away. Like scary jarring shaking. I pulled off the spacers. Maybe that was the issue. $15 *shrugs*
Been working on my DD subaru the past two weekends replacing ball joints and wheel bearings. OMG it's so bad. The clamp bolt was seized so I had to drill it out. But I drilled off center so that made it worse. I cut a notch into the knuckle to cut it out and finally got it out. then the balljoint wouldn't come out. Long story short, when it finally came out, it turns out the knuckle was ovaled. I ordered a knew knuckle on ebay and it was the wrong one. Thanks subaru for vin splitting in the same year so the part number pulls up the wrong part for my snow flake of a car. I cut out as much as I could of the oval section of the knuckle and pressed the bearing in. Got it 95% in so I just tacked the sombish in place, welded up the notch to get the lock screw out and nut/bolted the damn thing. It ain't coming out but it definitely isn't pretty. 9 hours of my life for 2 front wheel bearings and ball joints (and 1 tie rod I forked up). In the process, I knocked out 3 of the wheel studs after I had pressed the bearing in. I just impacted it in. The stud still spins sometimes. But It went to torque... *sigh* I like BMWs so much better than subarus. I haven't even gotten to the spark plugs -_-
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Just wait till a head gasket goes! I loved subies, but I'm glad I never bought myself one after working on a few. Engine work is a pain in the butt, except engine auxillaries are usually easy to get to. Suspension components seem to always be seized together, and impossible to get off... My 330 is pretty bad but it's rare that heat and an impact wont break something loose.
Last edited by awp235; 06-25-2018 at 09:32 AM.
Soooooo I just did a similar job on my 97 Impreza. Bearings, ball joints, and new wheel studs (ARP). I didn't think it was that bad, but I also had access to a huge shop press. I've done a lot of work on that car, including spark plugs, and it was all super easy. But then again it's the EJ22 so its the most simple and reliable engine that Subaru has ever made lol.
VC gaskets are leaking so that'll be a fun one. The bearings were annoying until I figured out the right way to get it into the press to get the bearings out. The ball joints were the pain. The car is from NY so everything down there is rusted to all hell. It would have been so much simpler to have the balljoint in the control arm. Then I could just order a new control arm and bolt it up. -_-
Anywho, E46 goes to get a cage in 2 weeks so I'm gonna start stripping the interior. Should be fun. Hopefully easier than the balljoints.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
One last note on the OT lol... take this with a grain of salt because my car spent most of it's life in Virginia. But I was able to get the ball joints out by just smacking the sleeve with a hammer a couple times and they worked their way out on their own. But then again, my bolts were removable w/ hand tools lol
Glad to hear about the cage work. Looking forward to seeing pictures.
I live in Virginia!
Man I heated and smacked this thing with a hammer so many times.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
1500-2k is on the cheap end if you know a guy. 3k+ is about the general going rate.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
You know I was a subaru tech for 8 years right? Is your Impreza a WRX or an NA? If it's NA the plugs are way easier. Hit me up on Messenger before you do those plugs if it's turbo. Also, there's a place in Boulder that parts out Subaru's daily, last I checked they sold complete knuckles with good bearings for $75 and would ship. If they're stock length studs you can replace them without pulling the hub out. Company 23 makes a sweet ball joint puller tool. Man, you need a Hub Tamer, then you can just do it with the knuckle on the car.
Was it the stupid box thing in each wheelwell? Mine had it on both sides and they shredded the inside edge of a pair of steers before I air hammered them flat.
Last edited by Novablue454; 06-25-2018 at 05:56 PM.
My shop starts at 1800+ materials (so around $2200) and that is for the basic tandem legal 6 point. Anti Intrusions to make it pro-am legal are $400, and additional bars and gussets can be added individually (around $100/bar). Any prep work beyond just wire wheeling out the baseplate areas is at our hourly rate (dash removal, sound deadening, carpet, etc) which is 88/hr.
What stupid box thingy in each wheel well? I had no idea you worked on subarus. I got the plugs done stupid easy. NA so no turbo stuff in the way. I might eventually hit you up for a passenger's side knuckle. But at that point, I might just pick up an RHD front end to swap on lol.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I assume the box thingy is the box thingy that I'm rubbing on the bmw's- There does seem to be something near where I'm rubbing the frame.But I feel like most of what I would have to beat out of the way is the actual frame, and I'm a little hesitant to do that
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