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Thread: How many days on track are before you crack rotors?

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    West Point, Virginia
    Posts
    728
    My Cars
    2002, 320is, 328is, M3
    IMG_1500[1].jpgI have the solid pins in the rear and clean and lube them before every event. Only takes a few minutes. I like them but if I were to do it over I would have bought ones from a different vendor that includes a dust cap.

    Here is a shot of my fronts. They will be replaced shortly when I switch compounds. The have about 15000 miles on them, all track. In fairness they are overkill on the e36.
    ME:"I want to make my car faster and lighter"
    THEM:" Get out and let someone else drive"

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    101
    My Cars
    E36 M3 SEDAN
    Who makes the solid pins with the dust cap?

    Also, what rotor/hub is that?

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    West Point, Virginia
    Posts
    728
    My Cars
    2002, 320is, 328is, M3
    ECS carries them. Turner also. These are a little tougher to install as you have an o ring to real with. Regardless of bushings, you need to grease the pins.
    Wilwoods up front, e46 325 brakes in the rear with thee solid bushings
    ME:"I want to make my car faster and lighter"
    THEM:" Get out and let someone else drive"

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    West Point, Virginia
    Posts
    728
    My Cars
    2002, 320is, 328is, M3
    Dropped these in today. Could not decide whose stuff I wanted to get and some that had thee plates did not have the hose so I stumbled on these for Mustangs. Plates hoses and shipping were $225.71. Had to trim the vent on the plate as it interfered with the strut a bit and then had to come up with a way to figure out where to drill the new holes in the plates. Ended up putting the bolts back in, covering the inside of the plate with cardboard and pressing the plate against the bolts giving me an imprint of thee bolt head and a spot to drill the pilot hole and then enlarged. Noise is the floating rotors. It is not rubbing on anything.
    IMG_1516[1].jpgIMG_1499[1].jpg
    ME:"I want to make my car faster and lighter"
    THEM:" Get out and let someone else drive"

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Miami
    Posts
    32
    My Cars
    1995 BMW M3
    Quote Originally Posted by joenationwide View Post
    I ran brake ducts for years and always had issues cracking rotors, especially the drivers front (had the most corner weight).
    Once I completely blocked off my brake ducting, I've now had rotors lasting at least twice as long.
    I go probably 10 weekends on my front rotors now, at least. I used to only get through 5 weekends before.

    I don't know why, its just working. I run OEM rotors and Hawk DTC-60 pads, with R comps.

    I have a 95' M3 and i'm getting massive "rotor warping / build up" after only a few sessions out at Sebring and/or Homestead. I am running OEM M3 calipers with bimmerworld brass caliper guide bushings (Permatex ceramic extreme brake lubricant), NO cooling to the brakes, Centric premium high carbon brake rotors, Hawk DTC-70 pads up front and DTC-60 pads at the rear with Motul 660 brake fluid ( i just switched to Endless RF650, what a difference BTW). After a few sessions the rotors were "warped" so badly that the entire dash was shaking in the braking zones. Attempts to resurface the rotor were unsuccessful. I was told the blade kept skipping and the marks on the rotor showed that when they showed it to me.

    My question is: what could be causing this?
    1. I don't know how to brake properly? I brake hard and early, slowly come off of the brake as i start to turn in to most corners. I am not gentle when I brake. The car does not have ABS.
    2. Should i go with OEM rotors? I was thinking of going for brembo slotted rotors at the rear (even though there are no problems there currently) and the DBA T3 4000 series rotors for the front do you have any thoughts on these?
    3. I am changing pads to PFC-08 mostly because they last longer than the DTC70's but also because I am tired of constantly "warping rotors" so I feel like changing everything.
    4. Could my calipers need to be rebuilt? What are the signs of a caliper that need to be rebuilt?
    5. I have no cooling to the rotors not even the stock cooling ducts. Could that be it? I have been wanting to buy the bimmerworld brake cooling kit but I don't want to buy that if that is not going to fix the problem.
    6. Do I not cool down the brakes enough after a session? Cool down lap is taken slowly with almost no braking. After I drive around another 3-4 minutes off track in the parking lot very, very slowly. I do put put on the parking brake when I park the car.

    Help me ObiKnowOfM3 you're my only hope!
    Last edited by BeeHemDoubleU; 07-09-2018 at 05:38 PM.

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    101
    My Cars
    E36 M3 SEDAN
    I'm running stock calipers, bw brass guide pins, PFC08 pads, and a custom-ish cooling setup using the BW cooling backing plates. *Zero* issues with cracking so far and no signs of warping and only micro-cracks on the surface (nothing my camera would capture or you can feel). I and my buddy have put 65 sessions now on our rotors so far running in the advanced run groups with 2 drivers running ~10 sessions per day. I feel that #3 above may improve the situation as I had no issues on my previous track car with no cooling ducts. I also am running centric rotors. Make sure when you switch to the PFC pads that you run with fresh rotors. My previous car had a bit of shaking for quite a bit on previously used rotors. On the fresh ones I had zero issues once bedded in (and even that was a non-event).

    As for #6, don't put the parking brakes on, although that would only impact the rear of the car.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Miami
    Posts
    32
    My Cars
    1995 BMW M3
    Quote Originally Posted by tripitz View Post
    I'm running stock calipers, bw brass guide pins, PFC08 pads, and a custom-ish cooling setup using the BW cooling backing plates. *Zero* issues with cracking so far and no signs of warping and only micro-cracks on the surface (nothing my camera would capture or you can feel). I and my buddy have put 65 sessions now on our rotors so far running in the advanced run groups with 2 drivers running ~10 sessions per day. I feel that #3 above may improve the situation as I had no issues on my previous track car with no cooling ducts. I also am running centric rotors. Make sure when you switch to the PFC pads that you run with fresh rotors. My previous car had a bit of shaking for quite a bit on previously used rotors. On the fresh ones I had zero issues once bedded in (and even that was a non-event).

    As for #6, don't put the parking brakes on, although that would only impact the rear of the car.
    Yea I never put the parking brake on after a session. After some further research I think its the calipers that have to be rebuilt. When I jack up the car there is a decent amount of drag on the wheel. I cannot just spin the front wheel freely. It probably makes 1 rotation before it comes to a stop due to the drag associated with the caliper. There is no hub or bearing issues. The wheel does not move in any other direction except around. When i remove the caliper the rotor and hub assembly rotated freely again.

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