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Thread: Help auto tranny light on

  1. #1
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    Help auto tranny light on

    Hey everyone. My automatic transmission light turns on after a couple minutes of driving. The engine also spits out p0141 02 sensor code saying it's not heating right. Could this cause the tranny light to go on? They legit both turned on at the same time. But before the light comes on the transmission runs smooth as hell. Thank you

  2. #2
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    How old is your battery. E36 electrics get flaky with a battery that is not holding a charge.


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  3. #3
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    I would do a drain and fill on the trans. Make sure you do it right. The car has to be raised level (I put a bubble level on the trans pan). Get new crush washers for the drain and fill plugs, the fill plug can be tuff to get out. The car has to be warmed up and running when topping off the fluid. It's not fun but it's not difficult.

    Your heating oxygen sensor error means the oxygen sensor has to be replaced, If you've never done them, then just replace the two pre-cat sensors. You can get the sensors from Rockauto for a good price. You can rent the tool that helps do them for free at an Advance auto store.
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
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  4. #4
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    I truly don't like to use P-codes, to diagnose any BMW. They are garbage bureaucrat translations of what BMW actually wanted you to know, to fix the car. Now: That said, P0141 is translated as O2 sensor heater, Bank 1, SENSOR 2. So throwing primary O2 sensors at it is not going to fix this code....it's a post cat sensor.

    Never mind me, I'm just visiting this forum because the moderator at the mechanical forum posted a link to the thread you couldn't find, usarmy. I'll be over at the Mechanical forum, where we don't buy crap from Rock auto, or use garbage OBD tools from Advance Auto, or throw primary sensors at a secondary sensor code.

    I answered your query there.
    Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 05-24-2018 at 10:24 PM.

    Chris Powell
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    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluptgm3 View Post
    How old is your battery. E36 electrics get flaky with a battery that is not holding a charge.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thank you. I appreciate the responses. But I just got the battery last year. Could it really be that? And I know how to do the 02 sensors I'm just at the point of where I wanna trade the tranny out cause it's getting frustrating haha. It doesnt turn on when it cooler out. And I made sure to crank it up on the speed and everything. I mean it goes haywire a little bit when I have my ac on. And I had my altonatir tested today

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    I truly don't like to use P-codes, to diagnose any BMW. They are garbage bureaucrat translations of what BMW actually wanted you to know, to fix the car. Now: That said, P0141 is translated as O2 sensor heater, Bank 1, SENSOR 2. So throwing primary O2 sensors at it is not going to fix this code....it's a post cat sensor.

    Never mind me, I'm just visiting this forum because the moderator at the mechanical forum posted a link to the thread you couldn't find, usarmy. I'll be over at the Mechanical forum, where we don't buy crap from Rock auto, or use garbage OBD tools from Advance Auto, or throw primary sensors at a secondary sensor code.

    I answered your query there.
    A sensor 2 code can be corrected by replacing failing sensor 1 sensors.
    In fact I’ve done it twice now.
    I usually just use an open end wrench on fwd O2 sensors.


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    I would do a drain and fill on the trans. Make sure you do it right. The car has to be raised level (I put a bubble level on the trans pan). Get new crush washers for the drain and fill plugs, the fill plug can be tuff to get out. The car has to be warmed up and running when topping off the fluid. It's not fun but it's not difficult.

    Your heating oxygen sensor error means the oxygen sensor has to be replaced, If you've never done them, then just replace the two pre-cat sensors. You can get the sensors from Rockauto for a good price. You can rent the tool that helps do them for free at an Advance auto store.
    It's just weird. It's only when it's hot iut. That's the only common denominator. I legit took it out today it was like 80 degrees out. Drove it to home depot and back like a total of 6 miles maybe 7 and the light came on and shifting turned to shit. Like if I slowed down it threw it into the gear and and when I stopped the car jerked and when I took off the shifting seemed really quick. But I took it out tonight when it was idk 65 68 outside and I went hard on it and it didnt throw a light or anything. I mean could it be when the ac is on? Cause my downdows are locked up cause I need new resistors or whatever they call it for the windows. But it's got me baffled. Ittle shift perfectly fine and then turns to shit. Is it overheating? And if it is how?. I have the transmission fluid on the right lvl and with the right transmission fluid.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluptgm3 View Post
    A sensor 2 code can be corrected by replacing failing sensor 1 sensors.
    In fact I’ve done it twice now.
    I usually just use an open end wrench on fwd O2 sensors.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Replacing primary O2 sensors is going to fix a HEATER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION on a secondary sensor ????
    Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 05-25-2018 at 06:22 AM.

    Chris Powell
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    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
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    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  9. #9
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    I would not tie the O2 Sensor Heater Element to the transmission woes.

    The transmission ought to be giving a code of its own in the P07nn range. For any given gear range, there is an input speed from the engine, and an expected output speed to the drive shaft, and ultimately the rear axle. If the input and output speeds are not within expected ranges for the gear in use, this can cause a transmission error. Going out on a limb here, the code for the input/output speed imbalance is P0715, but this tidbit could be wrong. The point is, the transmission should give a code.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    I would do a drain and fill on the trans. Make sure you do it right. The car has to be raised level (I put a bubble level on the trans pan). Get new crush washers for the drain and fill plugs, the fill plug can be tuff to get out. The car has to be warmed up and running when topping off the fluid. It's not fun but it's not difficult.

    Your heating oxygen sensor error means the oxygen sensor has to be replaced, If you've never done them, then just replace the two pre-cat sensors. You can get the sensors from Rockauto for a good price. You can rent the tool that helps do them for free at an Advance auto store.


    This is wrong. You should replace the Post-CAT sensors. Technically, you should test the sensors for continuity on, and for power during the period after Cold Engine Start where the SAP is also running. Heaters are powered by the RED/WHT wires, and grounded by the BRN wire on the vehicle side of the connectors. I _think_ the heater wires on the sensors are black, and the actual sensor wires are the other colors. But, the RED/WHT is switched 12v, and BRN is ground, for the heaters.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    I would do a drain and fill on the trans. Make sure you do it right. The car has to be raised level (I put a bubble level on the trans pan). Get new crush washers for the drain and fill plugs, the fill plug can be tuff to get out. The car has to be warmed up and running when topping off the fluid. It's not fun but it's not difficult.

    Your heating oxygen sensor error means the oxygen sensor has to be replaced, If you've never done them, then just replace the two pre-cat sensors. You can get the sensors from Rockauto for a good price. You can rent the tool that helps do them for free at an Advance auto store.
    Quote Originally Posted by JDStrickland View Post
    This is wrong. You should replace the Post-CAT sensors. Technically, you should test the sensors for continuity on, and for power during the period after Cold Engine Start where the SAP is also running. Heaters are powered by the RED/WHT wires, and grounded by the BRN wire on the vehicle side of the connectors. I _think_ the heater wires on the sensors are black, and the actual sensor wires are the other colors. But, the RED/WHT is switched 12v, and BRN is ground, for the heaters.
    Could it be the battery? I just drove like crazy to the dentist which is 25 Mike's away and when I was getting off the highway and the auto tranny light turned on. I had no ac om pr music. So could it be the battery? I also tried starting the car and I heard clicks from the front which I'm guessing starter but the lights on the dash kicked in and off.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    I would do a drain and fill on the trans. Make sure you do it right. The car has to be raised level (I put a bubble level on the trans pan). Get new crush washers for the drain and fill plugs, the fill plug can be tuff to get out. The car has to be warmed up and running when topping off the fluid. It's not fun but it's not difficult.

    Your heating oxygen sensor error means the oxygen sensor has to be replaced, If you've never done them, then just replace the two pre-cat sensors. You can get the sensors from Rockauto for a good price. You can rent the tool that helps do them for free at an Advance auto store.
    Quote Originally Posted by JDStrickland View Post
    This is wrong. You should replace the Post-CAT sensors. Technically, you should test the sensors for continuity on, and for power during the period after Cold Engine Start where the SAP is also running. Heaters are powered by the RED/WHT wires, and grounded by the BRN wire on the vehicle side of the connectors. I _think_ the heater wires on the sensors are black, and the actual sensor wires are the other colors. But, the RED/WHT is switched 12v, and BRN is ground, for the heaters.
    Could it be the battery? I just drove like crazy to the dentist which is 25 Mike's away and when I was getting off the highway and the auto tranny light turned on. I had no ac om pr music. So could it be the battery? I also tried starting the car and I heard clicks from the front which I'm guessing starter but the lights on the dash kicked in and off.

  12. #12
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    Also having a coolant leak cant find anywhere. Heatercore? It's apl pretty big leak. I fill it with a 2 liter bottle every 2 or 3 days. I think the heatercore is cracked idk. What exactly does the coolant go through? I havent checked checked everything due to the fact I dont know exactly where to look.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also the only reason I'm having all these umissues is cause the car was sitting for half a year. I replaced spark omits and ignighters camshaft position sensor cold air intake. Cleaned icv tuat wasnt even plugged in. Ckeaned the maf. New brakes and rotors in front aswell as calipers

  13. #13
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    So in this case, put two new oxygen sensors in the pre-cat positions and put one of the old pre-cat sensors in the bad post-cat position. Just be gentle when wrenching out the old sensor that was in the pre-cat position to not damage the porcelain. Also there is absolutely nothing wrong with a NTK/NGK sensor bought from Rockauto, nor is there a single thing wrong with the free rental tools from Advanceauto parts stores.
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    So in this case, put two new oxygen sensors in the pre-cat positions and put one of the old pre-cat sensors in the bad post-cat position. Just be gentle when wrenching out the old sensor that was in the pre-cat position to not damage the porcelain. Also there is absolutely nothing wrong with a NTK/NGK sensor bought from Rockauto, nor is there a single thing wrong with the free rental tools from Advanceauto parts stores.
    I read the battery it was fine and I didnt get a chance to get it read with code reader. But yet again it was cool outside tonight and it never went off. I think she's overheating.

  15. #15
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    auto tranny light means there is fault code stored in the tranny computer, proper scanner can read it and tell you why

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    Replacing primary O2 sensors is going to fix a HEATER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION on a secondary sensor ????
    Right, can fix “below threshold efficiency” error, sorry for that oversight.


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  17. #17
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    Where would the sensors be on the tranny? And if not could when I flushed it the last time vlog the filter cause I never checked it

  18. #18
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    How did you flush it?
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    How did you flush it?
    I only took off the drain plug as it was leveled and let it drain for half hour. Filled it back up. Started the car waited a little bit and out more in until it wheeled out the wide and closed it back up

    - - - Updated - - -

    My barmtterys only a year old

  20. #20
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    What's a little bit? Doing the auto tranny refill is pretty tedious. Run through the gears, get to a certain temp.... You may very well be low on fluid

    Sent from the dark side of the Moon

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanniepoo View Post
    What's a little bit? Doing the auto tranny refill is pretty tedious. Run through the gears, get to a certain temp.... You may very well be low on fluid

    Sent from the dark side of the Moon
    I waited 10 or 25 mins or so. But I went out n got the granny hotter and got home kept the car running n checked the fluid n some wept out the side so I closed it

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by usarmy188 View Post
    I waited 10 or 25 mins or so. But I went out n got the granny hotter and got home kept the car running n checked the fluid n some wept out the side so I closed it
    No codes found

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