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Thread: Never Thought It Would Happen To Me

  1. #1
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    Never Thought It Would Happen To Me

    This is an old problem with a new description. 2001 740i e38; trying to take idler pulley tensioner assembly off while breaking down for timing chain access; T-50 screw stripped; have tried for an hour to get a grip; hammered T-50 bit in for better fit/stability, put penetrating oil on it, tried different socket wrenches, can't get a grip on the darn thing. Suggestions appreciated. Thanks.Attachment 630103
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    cut a large slot in the head of the bolt and use a large flat head screwdriver or similar. If that doesn't work, then grind the head of the bolt off, remove the pulley, and then remove the bolt.
    Hint, heat up the bolt before trying to break it loose. locktite is much easier to overcome if you heat it first

  3. #3
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    This should take care of it, I have used it many times with old torx screws: https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-...799JE8P0JA7EJ9
    Last edited by georgebest; 05-22-2018 at 02:51 PM.

  4. #4
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    T-50 Torx bit extraction from idle pulley

    Quote Originally Posted by georgebest View Post
    This should take care of it, I have used it many times with old torx screws: https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-...799JE8P0JA7EJ9
    My space to work in is extremely small (6") and using a hammer, drill, impact driver, is hard to imagine. If I take out radiator, I could get another 2". Looks like these torx extractors require a drill to operate; with extension and swivel bit; maybe....never tried this. Still need to envision how this will work.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the reply, but I'm having difficulty using a tool that can get in the 6" of space between the bolt and radiator. Using a hammer is not possible, and would need a small drill to use torx extraction bits. I'll buy whatever if I know what will be the best way to do it.

  6. #6
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    Jerry, get a chisel, chisel the edge off center and then take an air chisel (or a regular one and a big mallet) to the notch to make the bolt turn.

    See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hS9fKZXJeA

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    Thanks for the reply, but I'm having difficulty using a tool that can get in the 6" of space between the bolt and radiator. Using a hammer is not possible, and would need a small drill to use torx extraction bits. I'll buy whatever if I know what will be the best way to do it.
    I have never used a drill with these tools, you can just screw them in. I know that you suppose to drill it but it always worked fine without it. Saved me many hours in situations like yours.
    What nmlss2006 suggests should work as well.
    Hope you get it out!

  8. #8
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    Great Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by nmlss2006 View Post
    Jerry, get a chisel, chisel the edge off center and then take an air chisel (or a regular one and a big mallet) to the notch to make the bolt turn.

    See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hS9fKZXJeA
    I watched this video, and it was brilliant; I will definitely try it. A little concerned what that amount of "banging" could do to the integrity of the pulley....oh well.
    Thanks for your help.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I think I'll get these tools and I'll have them for future reference in any case. Thanks for the help. Will update how it goes.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    I watched this video, and it was brilliant; I will definitely try it. A little concerned what that amount of "banging" could do to the integrity of the pulley....oh well.
    Thanks for your help.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I think I'll get these tools and I'll have them for future reference in any case. Thanks for the help. Will update how it goes.
    You can always send them back if not working. But seriously, they saved me an incredible amount of time. I'd be surprised if it didnt work in your case. Good luck!

  10. #10
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    The tools George mention *definitely* have their place. The chisel method is for when a) stuff is REALLY stuck or b) you REALLY have no room.

    I wouldn't be overly concerned about the state of the pulley if you angle the chisel correctly and don't use excessive force (most of the time, for these kinds of bolts, only... moderate persuasion is required).

  11. #11
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    Pull the radiator out if you can, it'll give you a lot of room to work with.

  12. #12
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    Idle pulley T-50 nut stripped

    Quote Originally Posted by tjpike View Post
    Pull the radiator out if you can, it'll give you a lot of room to work with.
    I will have to look up the DIY on removing the radiator as the right side lower hose wont come off after releasing the metal clip. Not sure if there is something else needed to be done. Also connection on left side doesn't have the usual connection and will have to find out how to take it off.

    What is really irritating is these DIY videos with no obstructions, (i.e. engine out of vehicle) and experiencing none of the "real life" issues when space is not available. I don't mind having the occasional problems but at this rate I'll be making $2.00 an hour on the job. LOL.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    What is really irritating is these DIY videos with no obstructions, (i.e. engine out of vehicle) and experiencing none of the "real life" issues...
    This is precisely what irks me as well, especially those DIYs that state "build a backyard deck in an afternoon" or "5-minute water heater fix". Yeah right. I'll be interested to see what works for you in this case.

    Frankie
    Texas, USA
    frankies-bmw.com

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    I will have to look up the DIY on removing the radiator as the right side lower hose wont come off after releasing the metal clip. Not sure if there is something else needed to be done. Also connection on left side doesn't have the usual connection and will have to find out how to take it off.

    What is really irritating is these DIY videos with no obstructions, (i.e. engine out of vehicle) and experiencing none of the "real life" issues when space is not available. I don't mind having the occasional problems but at this rate I'll be making $2.00 an hour on the job. LOL.

    For some odd reason, the lower radiator hose is always a pain to get off, perhaps because it is in a very tight location, I recommend removing the hose at the thermostat and then pulling the radiator out and if needed then remove the hose, much easier this way.

    Hope this helps

  15. #15
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    Removing the radiator is not horrible and if you do need to get a significant amount of work done, it does help a lot.

    Be careful with the hose ends because the plastic parts don't exactly love high loads.

  16. #16
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    Still stymied after trying to use the Hanson Irwin Multi Spline Ext Set which requires drilling a hole into bolt first for bit to get a grip. Couldn't find a drill bit that would penetrate the bolt; old-cheap drill bits; and still have the space problem to get the drill in contact with the bolt. Can a compressor impact gun be used somehow; the gun is much smaller and can access the bolt without a problem; will need to order better tools again. Did get the radiator out and using previous suggestions on the forum really helped and worked. Lots of debris fell out. Also got some hoses disconnected using the screwdriver trick. Tried using the chisel on the pulley bolt and it wouldn't budge; also sprayed more blaster on it.

  17. #17
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    Have you tried to drive in the extractor without drilling? I have done that many times and worked. Sorry for suggesting a solution that didnt work

  18. #18
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    Super Help

    Quote Originally Posted by georgebest View Post
    Have you tried to drive in the extractor without drilling? I have done that many times and worked. Sorry for suggesting a solution that didnt work
    All suggestions are worthwhile, so please don't ever be sorry when trying to help; what works for one may not work for all and vice versa. Appreciate your help.

  19. #19
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    I did try punching the extractor in lightly with a hammer, but not enough space to go in. I also tried using 13 mm socket on the extractor and drill to see if I could get a grip, but no success. (Drill just fit)

  20. #20
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    I HAD A THOUGHT....Is it possible the hex bolt has a cotter pin or something on the rear side holding the bolt from turning? Looking at the original BMW tension assembly there appears to be something at the rear and the INA tension assembly uses a cotter pin. Can anyone confirm this? I looked hard for anything that might confirm this with no luck. Purchased a right angle driver and an impact driver that is compact for easier access. I was going to take a torch to it, but couldn't find the propane tank.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Used the chisel, got a good edge, and tried to punch it loose with no success. Maybe a cotter pin somewhere on the rear of the bolt?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    Looking at the original BMW tension assembly there appears to be something at the rear and the INA tension assembly uses a cotter pin. Can anyone confirm this? I looked hard for anything that might confirm this with no luck.
    Mine doesnt have one for sure, removed it not long ago.

  22. #22
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    Thanks for the answer; it helps me a lot in knowing there's still hope I'm not spinning my wheels. Next is drill out the head and use Hanson Irwin extractors once my impact driver and right angle socket comes in. I'm also going to get a propane tank for the torch to heat up if needed.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Scholder View Post
    Thanks for the answer; it helps me a lot in knowing there's still hope I'm not spinning my wheels. Next is drill out the head and use Hanson Irwin extractors once my impact driver and right angle socket comes in. I'm also going to get a propane tank for the torch to heat up if needed.
    Maybe something like could work, but not sure if enough space there: https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-0-8-10...ds=angle+drill

    Extractor will work once you managed to drive it into the head.

  24. #24
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    Victory is mine!! Success at last.

    Quote Originally Posted by georgebest View Post
    Maybe something like could work, but not sure if enough space there: https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-0-8-10...ds=angle+drill

    Extractor will work once you managed to drive it into the head.
    Wow, did I make this so much tougher than it actually was; once the angle drill arrived, I was able to get a good drill hole in the head, hammer in Irwin Hanson extractor and it was out. Have now removed the water pump, alternator and connectors as well as the nuts on the Crankshaft Pulley.

    I need to obtain a M62 tu Cam and Vanos timing tool set: German Auto Solutions out of rentals. Anyone have one they want to sell or rent?

  25. #25
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    Glad that it's out, these extractor tools are amazing.
    Now wait until you get to the crankshaft bolt If you thought this was difficult...

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