Is the steering wheel emblem glued? Does it have. A rubber gasket around it? I don't want to damage the emblem or the wheel.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
I think it's part of the airbag, but BMW does sell a replacement adhesive emblem. I know because I just bought one:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...m/36131181082/
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
The original is secured with__I think__four (3?) metal tabs that go into the cover and are bent outward. I took one out on a customer's car, reaching a point of no return...
... you really have to mangle the emblem, including cutting it, to be sure to remove any potentially hazardous bits behind, should it ever be called into service.
To do it again, I would merely put the replacement emblem over the existing one!
Randy thanks for the information. I need to pull steering wheel so I guess I will have to mangle the emblem....pity. Any other information I need to know?
Why mangle it? Just install the new emblem decal over the old. When you tear up the old one, there isn't an OEM part (short of another airbag) to replace it with.
You also said you don't want to damage your emblem, which makes me believe your emblem isn't damaged in the first place. I guess I just wonder why you need to remove it at all. The airbag comes out with 2 screws (from behind). You don't need to touch the emblem whatsoever.
You can see one of the screws in the first photo. They stay in the steering wheel and don't fall out.
20160527_144054.jpg
20160527_144911.jpg
Last edited by s8ilver; 05-22-2018 at 01:06 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Are you trying to remove the steering wheel...? There are two torx accessed from behind the wheel (the back of the "arms" around the 3 and 9 o'clock positions) then the airbag is removed from the front and there is a bolt underneath to remove the wheel
Should really never need to remove that emblem. I'd advise against it in fact for reasons Randy touched on in his post. They don't come out cleanly (I've tried a few times) and I don't think you want little sharp plastic remnants becoming projectiles in the event the airbag deploys
The one I did had a stamped steel (aluminum possibly...) Roundel on it, not plastic.
I don't know what causes it__mistakenly pounding on the horn?__but I've seen several dented ones on the earlier <4/00 M Rdstrs/Coupes, including the one as received on our CPO '99 M Rdstr (and it only had 5400 miles on it).
I can tell you it's exactly from pounding on the horn. I have a stainless steel pinky ring (before you make fun, Google "Order of the Engineer") and my horn gets quite the workout around Denver. I've vowed to not mess up the new one, but since it's a decal maybe I should have purchased them in bulk.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
I have a M steering wheel anybody know the part number for a new M logo insert at the bottom of the steering wheel?
• Built S52 w/Dinan ISR-3 kit, NickG Stage 2+ Tune, Dinan Vortech V2 Supercharger, Dinan Air to Air Intercooler, Dinan CAI, Porsche 803 HFM, Buldogge 6" crank pulley, Griptec 2.90" blower pulley, Eurosport UD pulleys, Dinan 3.38 Diff, Dinan front/rear Swaybars, Dinan springs, Koni Yellow Sport Struts, Ground Control end links, South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Organic, AASCO Light Weight Flywheel 18.5#, Zionsville Radiator & Oil Cooler, Riot Racing BBTB, Schrick Intake Manifold, 42# Injectors, Schrick cams 264/256, Forged Wiseco pistons 9.0 comp., Forged Eagle rods, Supertech dual valve springs & valves, VAC crank & bearings, Supersprint mufflers, Euro Z3 midpipe, Raceland euro headers, Walbro 255, Bevauto ignition coils, Vortech Mondo bypass, Bailey Diverter DV30, Ireland Rear Subframe Bushings, Mason Engineering Strut Brace, Mason Engineering Clutch Petal, Apex 18" EC-7 Wheels, Full Custom Sound System, two trunk lids (with & without OE spoiler), Hardtop, Trunk full of AK's...
Pardon my Ignorance guys. Thanks for the information. Guess I will not be mangling my emblem after all. BTW, Once I disconnect the battery and remove the air bags, is there any reason the battery cannot be connected so the power top can be operable?
No, but it will throw an SRS DTC. NOT a problem if you have a device to clear the code (I do it all the time; move or start a car without a seat or airbag(s) connected).
If you just need to operate the top, I would flip the little lever on the hydraulic pump and put the top into manual mode. Unless of course, you have the SRS reset tool that Randy mentioned.
If you don't already have one, this is what I got and seems to do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It also comes with the 20 pin adapter which is handy to have if you ever need one.
Or, INPA.
Last edited by s8ilver; 05-22-2018 at 06:23 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Morrie, I was looking for an online TIS for some other repair instructions and came across details for removing the entire dash. You might find it interesting.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-panel/BiuOj3h
New one is slightly different than original, but was a perfect fit and no more dent!
20180601_150809.jpg20180601_150940.jpg
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Mine was pushed in when I bought the car. I tried everything to get the dimple out; the closest I got was with a valve lapping tool. Then I had an epiphany. I found some rubber hose about the same size as the roundel and hooked it up to my vacuum. Popped right out. I then did all the tweeter centers on my old speakers that had been been pushed in by the family kids over the years.
Bookmarks