e32 5/92 been in backyard for 13 years

[Hum]

I'd just towed 750il e32 from backyard of my brother house, it have nothing wrong with the car at all, only antifreeze leak at aux pump and oil leak at timing chain, a paint shade out from sun and rain, but he just leave the car just like that for 13 years, and now he give it to me(usually I ask him for it). Now, I just know very little about the car specially bmw. What and how should I start to do first, change oil ,battery etc? Please give me an advice to bring this car back to life again.

[unity]

Odds are it will need a lot of work. They say abuse is better than non-use since at least with abuse, its being lubricated, etc.

Certainly do not fire it up. The top end will not be oiled very well. You will have to do a complete fluid change and check for leaks. Check coolant hoses for dry-rot, etc. I would drain the fuel tank, there is a plug on the underside. I would pull the fuel rail, injectors, etc. One can drain fuel, put in fresh then jump the fuel pump relay to purge the lines - THEN pull injectors to clean.

Check the underside for line rust, brakes and fuel.

If you can do all of the above and things look fairly good, then I would consider buying a battery, fresh fuel, etc. You will want to crank it by hand to make sure things move free. Upon first start, do not let it actually fire up. Best to kill fuel supply (pull relay). Let it crank a bit to get oil around the engine. Then put fuel relay back in.

If the tires look good, dont trust them anyway. Replace. A tire can look pretty good but dry rot out badly. It can break down very quickly when on the road.

There are a ton of things that really can be done, should be done. Just dont get impatient. Tackle one system at a time and dont fire it up until you are certain damage will not be caused.

[shogun]

In case he left the car there for 13 years like that, then a lot is to do. As mentioned above, all has to be prepared before you try to fire up the engine. Tank is probably full of rust, both fuel pumps have to be replaced, both fuel filters to be replaced, maybe even the fuel pressure regulators and the fuel injectors are gummed up from old fuel. Distributors, distributor rotors, throttle valve etc pp
Corrosion, oxidation on contact surfaces of relays and fuses etc are the next point to check. Get a Bentley Repair manual for the E32 and start with that

[Hum]

wow!! that's a lot of work, I think I made a wrong decision to take over this car. Thank you shogun for your value advice, I'll do everything as you say, also I will get the bentley book to start with. I hope everything go well. If tank is full of rust, should I just replace or just clean it out and how? The tire is Pirelli P6000 3 months old before he left the car for 13 yrs, it look very new, should I replace them anyway?

[shogun]

It all depends, you have to check it, maybe cleaning the tank is fine. Google for tank cleaning electrolysis, I did that with a 750iL Highline tank and that worked, and it costs only some baking powder and some old scrap iron. As a starter read this http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...e%20no%20power
For a beginner with M70 you have chose a more complicated car, almost all double in engine bay, fly by wire system with EML.
Some gave up, some succeeded, it is all up to you to learn and read and use the forum knowledge.

[mitch23]

I love the old e32, some hate it, I see a project and want to say go for it, but on reality from what I seen so far 95% of 750il's are beaters these days, you are going to spend thousands on this car, still won't be worth much at all, so you have to do it for the love of tbem, unless you are in love with the e32 part it out and make a little coin, garentee it will start out with it just needs this, than ot just needs that than before you know it your savings are blown you are eating noodles daily and you have an old unfinished project in your backyard you have sunk at least $5000 into and it is still worth nothing, to own and maintain one of these cars you have to love the car more than money itself.

Sorry, brutal but honest, I bought one of these cars that needs nothing done, I am sitting around 10k in my car so far I reckon.

[dragon850]

Ok, it does not have to be the worst case scenario. Start with fuel system, take one step at a time. Make sure you crank it by hand to check if pistons arw not frozen.

[Hum]

well, frankly I knows nothing about how to fix e32 from A to Z yet, but I know I'm fall in love e32 for long time since I was teenager. So, I'm decide to keep her and go forward to bring her life back, no matter how hard it is, I'm going to try my best to educate myself to be able to fix her at all cost. Thank you everybody for value advice. Is anything else I am suppose to be check or be done or be aware please don't be hesitate to train me. I'm a good listener. By the way, How to crank it by hand?

[dragon850]

well, frankly I knows nothing about how to fix e32 from A to Z yet, but I know I'm fall in love e32 for long time since I was teenager. So, I'm decide to keep her and go forward to bring her life back, no matter how hard it is, I'm going to try my best to educate myself to be able to fix her at all cost. Thank you everybody for value advice. Is anything else I am suppose to be check or be done or be aware please don't be hesitate to train me. I'm a good listener. By the way, How to crank it by hand?

Put a braker bar on the front crank and twist clock wise only.

[VincentKreed]

Getting the "Bentley Repair Manual " for e32 can not be stressed enough! This should be the first thing you buy period!

[shogun]

A 750 with the M70, EML and all the other gimmicks is a different beast compared to a relatively easy to maintain M30 engine. Unless you have the time, money and skill, buying low on a E32 750 is a gamble at best. There are no barn fresh e32. Copy from my website: by Philly Bob

Starting at the front..
Front suspension is a problem area. Drive at all speeds including highway and feel for shimmies or wobbles. An entire front end rebuild can set you back a thousand real quick. 750's are heavier and more powerful and therefore harder on the suspension. Look for uneven tire wear, especially cupping or scalloping. Its typical for the inside of front tires to wear first an all these cars. Its the factory camber setting.

Engine should start instantly, run very smoothly and quietly. long cranking and rough idle can be intake manifold leaks and/or fuel pump or injector problems. These engines are very complex and will cost you surprisingly more to fix than a six or even a v8 and not just any mechanic will be up to the task of a drive by wire v12 with more electronics than the space shuttle. The valves are hydraulic so don't let somebody tell you they need adjusted to reduce valve noise like you can the 6 cyl.. A Motor rebuild will easilly cost you more than the purchase price of the car. Fuel pumps.. (Yes Virginia, there are two) should be replaced by 150K if they have not gone out already. That'll be $600 in parts please.. What? Ohhh! You want them INSTALLED??

Make sure all lights, accessories and power functions work properly. Seat back twist is very common on a car this old as well as dropping headliner material. Seat function motors can also go out. The LKM module is a frequent casualty as is the CCM module. On Board computer is a frequent failure, and instrument cluster bulbs require dropping the steering column or removing the air bag/steering wheel and there are something like 24 bulbs.. my dealer charged me 5$ a piece for the bulbs.

Under the car, motor mounts, trans mounts, trans and rear end seals and drive shaft center bearing and U-joints are all likely failures. The drive shaft is not rebuildable and will set you back close to a grand if you are not careful. The trans should have no leaks and shift very smoothly and flawlessly. The trans can cost up to $5K to replace so pay careful attention. Fluid should be clear (red) and clean and if is smells burnt, then thats what you will be if you buy it! Rear swingarm bushings can wear, causing rear squirming when goosing the throttle in manual shift mode. Clunking in the rear end can be loose suspension mounts or broken bolts on the carrier.

The 750's are iL's and most have hydraulic load leveling (LAD). This system can develop leaks and is complex and expensive to repair. Also makes strut replacement more costly. A car this old will likely need struts, maybe all 4, if not also springs. And exhaust, Ahh yes the lovely exhaust.. That system is VERY expensive to replace and I have seen quotes for a thousand just for the parts not including installation. Interior, look for wear, and cracking in the leather, especially in the drivers seat and arm rest. BMW wants $900 for a new leather cover for one seat.. Then it needs to be installed. I just had a phone quote from an upholstery shop for $2000 to replace just the seating areas on two front seats.

The Heat and AC needs to work perfectly. The controller is a notorious problem in these cars and if the AC doesn't work, don't believe him that it just needs charged. The heater cores/pipes develop leaks, (leaking coolant sometimes into the drain there, but sometimes onto your carpet) especially in older e32's. This is a BEAR of a job and requires the nearly complete disassembly of most of the interior and dash just to get to it! MUCHO Labor costs! As always, a mechanic along is good, but you would be MUCH better off leaving a deposit and taking the car to a BMW dealer for a complete inspection. These cars are very complicated and unique and it will be WELL worth the money to get a thorough inspection so you know where ALL the problems are and can consider that in your purchase decision.

Remember, this was a $70K car 25 years ago and the maintenance and repair costs will be commensurately far and above your basic Chevy or Buick! These cars in their "mature" years are not for the faint of heart or light of wallet! And I am sure I have left a few things out. Most imprtant of all is how and where the car was maintained. If was dealer maintained till the day you bought it and all records are available, then thats best. If Ronnie Ramjet had it and thought it was cool to drag race Chevelles with his V-12 but never changed the oil for 2 years, Run don't walk away and keep looking! You would probably spend more than the purchase price in maintainence the first year! Buy with your head and your calculator, not with your heart. The purchase price is just the beginning. Now you have to repair it if it breaks. These cars are addictive (ask any one of us) but sometimes love hurts!

Sooo If you "Ain't Skeered" yet... God Speed and good luck! And welcome to the world of the e32 7's. These cars are like a certain woman I know (who will remain un-named). A true thing of beauty, but very high maintenance and demanding of a lot of attention... But she can perform like no other, and OOOOHHHHHHBABY!!! what she can do for you when you two are alone!!!

[shogun]

And: Don't bother going to get the code read.. Do the smart thing and buy a code reader. It is invaluable when it comes to saving yourself dozens of wasted threads typed on bimmerforums while asking people to throw out random solutions without knowing the problem first over the course of your ownership.
Notice: E32 are pre-OBD II, so the common code OBD II readers do not work on your E32, read/study in the diagnostic software forum here on BF what is best for you.

[Sansouci]

I'd just towed 750il e32 from backyard of my brother house, it have nothing wrong with the car at all, only antifreeze leak at aux pump and oil leak at timing chain, a paint shade out from sun and rain, but he just leave the car just like that for 13 years, and now he give it to me(usually I ask him for it). Now, I just know very little about the car specially bmw. What and how should I start to do first, change oil ,battery etc? Please give me an advice to bring this car back to life again.

So he parked it with problems and you have to solve them and more? Not an auspicious start. Let him give you $5,000 to sink into the car. Otherwise it will be your money and you are very early on the learning curve of a complex machine.
Keep us posted.

[shogun]

Looks like Hum is took the challenge to restore the car, he just ordered a set of outer door handle gaskets from me. That means he is already doing the cosmetics works. Good Luck with the car.

[Hum]

Thanks everybody, I got car start up and running, I'd start from fuel system as unity and dragon850 said so, clean all rust inside the fuel tank by electrolysis then water pressure, replace with new fuel pump(TRE-432 $39.99each), got rebuid kit from Mr.injector for rebuilt fuel injector, change engine oil, transmission oil, brake oil, antifreeze, chf11.s, new battery duralast from autozone, new 2 fuel filter, 2 air filter, oil filter, most major parts was done, engine sounds great, everything looks fine for now. I still have found a lot of minor problem have to be done, but I think I'll be OK for now.
Oh shogun, Do I need to get ADS-OBD pc interface (Interfaces4Beemers) for code reader and which software do I need? or, should I get Peake code readers R5/FCX-3 for code reader? Is any more suggestion about car diagnosis?

[shogun]

The Peake code reader does basically the same as the stomp test. For our older cars with pre-OBDII it is difficult to find a proper fault code reader. Discussed this matter the past days with S1L1SC as he is also looking for one and ECS is selling a unit which apparently might also work on our older cars, we discussed that here in the Z3 forum http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ides-the-Peake
Schwaben by Foxwell reader from ECS
it says:
Product Details
The Schwaben BMW/MINI scan tool is the most cost-effective professional scan tool for enthusiasts, small garages, independent repairs, specialized garages and technicians by delivering OE-level diagnosis on all the electronic systems. It does not only include basic functions such as codes and live data, but also is capable of advanced functions such as actuation, adaptation and programming. In addition, it lets you to access the most commonly required service features such as oil service light reset, throttle body adjustment, DPF regeneration and much more.
Compatible with BMW from 1987 and MINI from 2002 to current
Compatible with the latest UDS protocol
Compatible with global OBDII/EOBD
Works on most systems

the question is now, does is it really also work on all or some E32 or not? Because they says "works on most systems". In case S1L1SC goes ahead and buys one he can test it on his E32 cars and then we know for sure.
I have some doubts it will work on all E32, especially as in Europe the E32 was produced from autumn 1986 and the first E32 730/735 there even had the old Motronic M1.1 -150 which has very limited diagnosis possibilities, also the M1.3 is limited as well as the older M70 with the M1.2 -156 , where as the M70 1.7 352 and the M60 with the 3.x -404 are more advanced. So we have to wait and see till someone tested it.
In the pics they show on their website there is also only the 16 pin OBDII connector shown, not the 20pin round port diagnosis connector or an adapter for that. Maybe you contact them to test some E32 and tell exactly which year/month and which Motronic that cars have they tested.

[Hum]

The Schwaben very interesting and Yes, they have BMW round 20 pin to 16 pin OBD II connector for $19.95, they're sell separately with the scan tool for $199.95. So the total will be $219.90, no tax for me with free shipping, good investment. Thank you shogun for information, I'm definitely will call them to make sure that it'll work on my.

[shogun]

I sent a PM to James of ECS to recheck if the Schwaben tool really works on all E32 from 1987 -1994, as well as the airbag/srs resetting on E32. Same applies for E34 built before 1993 and E36 built before 1994. It is known that Peake states on their website that their srs tool does not work on BMW built before 1994, same is with the cheapo chinese B800 tool, that does also not work on BMW built before 1994.

[ECSTuning]

Hey guys we've done very very limited testing with older cars and the scan tool. Per Foxwell (the manufacture of the tool for Schwaben, hence the Schwaben by Foxwell branding) it should work with the early cars. But the kicker is what's going to be available, early DMEs (as yall have discussed) have very limited built in diagnostics, scan tools can only access what the DME will echo back when an information request is sent.

-James

[S1L1SC]

I am still kicking the idea around - I know what is causing my SRS light (broken wire, which is why I don't drive that car currently, need to pull the bumper and fix that along with the upper oil pan gasket). So at $220 it is a bit expensive just to test the tool.

[Sansouci]

Hey guys we've done very very limited testing with older cars and the scan tool. Per Foxwell (the manufacture of the tool for Schwaben, hence the Schwaben by Foxwell branding) it should work with the early cars. But the kicker is what's going to be available, early DMEs (as yall have discussed) have very limited built in diagnostics, scan tools can only access what the DME will echo back when an information request is sent.

-James

James,
Perhaps you would send one to Shogun so he could test and confirm its value to all of us E32 owners. Think of (1) the good will (2) the fabulous testimonial from a known guru of the E32 world (3) the likely orders that would flow from that process?

--Ken

- - - Updated - - -

Hum
So how much have you spent so far? DIY vs stealer?

[shogun]

James, Perhaps you would send one to Shogun so he could test and confirm its value to all of us E32 owners. Think of (1) the good will (2) the fabulous testimonial from a known guru of the E32 world (3) the likely orders that would flow from that process? --Ken

I live in Japan, too far away, additional cost on my side for importing the tool, import duty, tax. Also I have a Japan spec car as well as my wrenching buddies. That tool is made for US spec cars.So you have to test it in the US respect. read what the others say which bought the tool. And always read careful which model year, which DME type etc. it works or not. For example it might work on a 1998 E36, while it might not work on a 1991 E36.

[Sansouci]

Ah, the elegance of knowing the details!

[ECSTuning]

If any of yall are local to us (Wadsworth, Ohio) I'll happily set something up for a quick test on one of the old girls.

-James

[shogun]

Anyone near Wadsworth, Ohio meanwhile visited ECS for a test or bought the tool? Would be interesting to know if it can communicate with E32 for fault codes and also airbag/srs codes and reset the codes.