Has anyone installed a Eurosport OBD-II Cam System 3.2L (complete) in their E36 M3? See link below for details regarding the kit.
http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com/cam_kits.html
A previous owner of my car installed this kit on my 1998 E36 M3 Sedan and trying obtain further info on it, like a paper copy of the install instructions and CD that featured in the photo of the kit on the Eurosport website.
Before anyone asks, I've already reached out to the Eurosport via email and requested a copy of the install instructions and CD and response I got was that Eurosport no longer has these items in stock.
I thought Eurosport is no longer in business. Nothing special about their kit, just the basic intake stuff with the schrick cams.
That's what I have but with Epic Motorsports software instead of the Conforti stuff Eurosport used
'03 911 Turbo 6MT fun car
'18 Toyota Land Cruiser Daily driver/Ski Machine/Off Roader
'15 Cayenne Diesel Wife's DD
'17 KTM 690 "Adv" 2 wheeled Adventurer
TRM Tuning is the current wholesale distributor for them and I dont believe any of that is actually in stock anymore.. but boy oh boy that twin screw kit looks interesting
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Turner sells more or less the same kit in various stages, with the Conforti software.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
I've had the Eurosport OBD-II Cam Kit on my 96 M3 since 2003. If you'd like the pdf of their kit installation instructions, PM me your email address and I'll send it.
AFAIK Eurosport is long gone as a business (even if the web page lives on). I visited principal Josh MacMurray in Salt lake City one time when I was out skiing in Park City.
Neil
For those that have this kit installed or similar, have you found the valve train to be substantially noisier than stock? My valve train is very loud and could be the result of deferred maintenance/repair, not the camshaft kit. I don't know since I've never heard or seen an E36 with this type of cam kit installed.
- - - Updated - - -
Neil, I wanted to publically thank you for providing me with the installation kit instructions. I've found them very helpful.
Last edited by Ratinoff; 09-01-2019 at 03:32 PM.
It is possible your lifters drained down. Once they are all pumped up, the noise will go away if that is your problem.
Neil's the man.
Did you just finish the install?
During initial startup, or have you driven it yet?
Can you post a video of the startup and the sound?
Very possible it's the lifters, usually it takes a bit of time to fill them up again. BMW has a fix for them, something along the lines of keeping the RPM's at 2,000-3,000 for 2 minutes I believe. A quick drive usually fills them up again.
If you just got done with the install, I would take a video and post it before you go out and start revving the engine.
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DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
Kit was installed by the previous owner (no paperwork regarding who installed it, when and mileage at install). I'm assuming the PO drove the car after install. PO then sold the car to me and I've put maybe 3,000 miles on the car. Yes, the valve train has been loud since I've owned the car.
Here is a bad video I took a while back, attempting to record the engine tick, which I think stems from something in the valve train:
https://youtu.be/J2-P2bw2SVw
I needed to have taken the video with the hood up. I can take another video, if needed.
Again, if the engine has fresh oil (Mobil 1 15w-50 full synthetic), new valve lifters, timing chain, guides, tentioner, etc., with rebuilt vanos unit, I should not have a loud valve train. Correct? I have yet do this, however asking since I'm curious if just doing maintenance/repair will fix the issue. I guess I'll just have to do it and find out.
Last edited by Ratinoff; 09-15-2019 at 10:46 AM.
Drained lifters do not get fully pumped up in the time it takes for your oil to heat up. Could take a day or two of driving depending on how much driving you do. But if this has been going on for 3000 miles then pumping up lifters is not your problem. You might have some bad lifters, though, that will not fix themselves. Although you have a bunch of new parts, we don’t know whether they are good parts or installed properly.
Last edited by pbonsalb; 09-15-2019 at 10:52 AM.
Last edited by Ratinoff; 09-15-2019 at 11:06 AM.
Not exacerbated by mild cams like these Schricks. But an all original valve train on a 20+ year old motor may be getting tired. I thought you wrote in post #11 that the lifters and vanos were new/rebuilt? When worn those parts make noise. If new/rebuilt they should be good for 100k miles no problem.
Someone knowledgeable about these motors could look and listen and tell you whether you have a problem and likely what it is. There must be a DIYer or shop in CA you know who can take a look.
Last edited by pbonsalb; 09-15-2019 at 01:43 PM.
I haven't rebuilt the VANOS yet and am reluctant to since the valve train ticking goes away by adding engine oil. Every time I stop for gas I shut off the engine, wait 5 minutes and check the oil level. If the oil level measures between the two notches on the dip stick, I add no oil. If the oil level measures at or below the notch closest to the dip stick tip, I add 1 liter of oil and check engine oil level again. Usually 1 liter of oil brings the oil level to at or near full (in line with notch furthest from dip stick tip). Despite the oil level measuring full the engine tick persisted. Hard driving, constituting up shifting at or above 4k RPM makes the engine oil tick at idle even louder. Keeping the engine RPM below 4k RPM keeps the engine idle tick to its normal noise level, which is still loud.
My understanding is that to bring the oil level from the lower notch to the upper notch on the dip stick requires addition of 1 liter of oil. Please confirm.
Recently, I measured the oil level and it was about 1/2 full. I then added 1 liter of oil and valve train tick went away. Did I overfill the engine oil level by about 1/2 liter remove the engine tick, or has the engine oil level been low the entire time, despite the engine oil measuring full on the dip stick? If so, what could be causing me to read a faulty oil level? Note that I always check the oil level with the car on a level surface and I always use 15w-50 full synthetic oil (typically Mobil 1) changed every 5k miles or less.
Last edited by Ratinoff; 11-20-2019 at 01:21 AM.
Dipstick from another car? They are different lengths between years … who knows. Best way is to put in the correct amount during an oil change, and see where it reads. Overfilling is a common cure for ticking, but typically for autocross, where th high loads cause oil slosh. For normal street driving, this should not be necessary at all. But if overfilling it .5 to 1 L fixes it, I'd roll with it.
Just though of another option … The cam trays provide oil to the lifters and cams. Maybe these passages got clogged, or somehow damaged when the cams were installed? Just guessing here.
Last edited by ScotcH; 11-20-2019 at 05:27 PM.
I didn't know different years came with different length dip sticks. I will look into this.
The previous owner only drove the car 1000 miles a year, if that for several years and who knows if and when the oil was changed and with what oil? Who knows? The point is that old oil may have clogged the cam trays. Great suggestion. I look into it.
Lifters not pumping up is cause for concern.
Lifters do wear out, although they may sometimes be resuscitated. There's a ball check-valve that normally prevents the lifter from leaking down. Crud can build up, stopping the ball from seating properly and thereby releasing oil pressure. This will likely end up damaging your cam lobes. There's lots of information out there for fixing this, but either way it's a case of Substantial Disassembly Required.
There's also the possibility that your engine isn't developing enough oil pressure in the first place, either due to a failing oil pump, a cracked oil pickup tube, an inappropriate oil level (as mentioned above), or perhaps other reasons.
I suggest that the first thing to do is to take actual oil pressure readings, either with a temporary shop gauge, or by installing a dashboard oil pressure gauge. Several years ago I unwillingly acquired some experience in this area from installing the dual pickup oil pump and pan, and seeing oil pressure shortfalls I hadn't expected. Fortunately I already had an oil pressure gauge in place to provide data to work from.
Neil
I am in desperate need of the eurosport camkit install instructions.
Does anyone have them and if so can you please pm so you can email them to me?
I responded to your PM and emailed you the install instructions.
Also, no progress has been made on my car with respect to the solving the engine tick noise, since I've been preoccupied with replacing its entire trunk floor; the trunk floor had rust holes in several locations exceeding 1 inch in diameter. I procured the floor from a junk E36 four door and gave it to Ultimate Coachworks in Culver City, CA to have them cut out the old floor, weld in the used one and coat the entire trunk compartment with black spray-in bed liner. I asked them to paint the trunk with the same color as the exterior of the car, except with a satin finish, as was done by the factory and they declined. Once I get the car back from the body shop, the engine lifter tick investigation will continue.
Last edited by Ratinoff; 07-05-2020 at 11:18 PM.
Last edited by Ratinoff; 07-05-2020 at 11:24 PM.
My suggestion would be at the next oil/filter change, fill the crankcase with the recommended fill.... 6.5 quarts, whatever is called for, swap out filter, finish the change.
Start engine, run a few minutes and then shut down for a measured five minutes. Pull dipstick, wipe and re-insert. Pull and using a file, scratch a mark where the true full mark is.
You now know have a base for overfilling, etc. Keep your level above that at all times. When I had the S52 engine, overfilling a quart never caused an issue.
04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd
88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS
WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
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