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Thread: Keyless entry question

  1. #1
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    Keyless entry question

    Hello folks. After buying various keyfobs and used receiver modules I think I am reaching braking point and going to just settle without the keyfob. It seems that even though I can get the receiver to go into learn mode (you can clearly hear and see it do that), it is refusing to detect any of the keyfob so acquired. Even OE one that I paid top dollar for on eBay. I know that transmitters send signal. I also bought the transmitter frequency detector, they are pretty cheap. All looks good, but just refusing to talk to each other. As my last attempt, I wanted to ask the crew here if anyone has any more suggestions, before I just disconnect all the parts and throw them in the box...
    Any suggestions are welcome. Even sarcasm!
    Thank you in advance.

  2. #2
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    here's what I have put in 3 E36 BMWs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    The wiring diagram that they come with is weak, but it's not that hard to figure it out anyway. And they have all worked flawlessly for over 2 years.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by zellamay View Post
    here's what I have put in 3 E36 BMWs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    The wiring diagram that they come with is weak, but it's not that hard to figure it out anyway. And they have all worked flawlessly for over 2 years.
    Can you give us a diy, Im intererested on this, specially for that price

  4. #4
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    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ghlight=Remote. Did you follow these instructions.

  5. #5
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    My 20 bucks remote from Ebay works flawlessly since more than 5 years (once a year a new battery in the key...). It is connected to 'open' and 'shut' wire, plus and ground and the indicators. All these lines are behind the driver side lower dash kick panel on my 1998.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by blown330 View Post
    Can you give us a diy, Im intererested on this, specially for that price
    There was a thread with details a year or so ago, but I can't find it, so this is from memory: This is for a 98 Z3M, yours may be different in the location of the module or the wire colors: Locate the door module (behind the glovebox). From the BMW schematic ( http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf ) , find out which wires are "lock" and "unlock" (gn/wh and blue/red on mine). Then hook the "lock" and "unlock" wires from the remote receiver (white and white/black on mine) onto them. (On the remote instructions, choose "positive lock" to find the "lock" and "unlock" wires). Hook three wires (red, yellow, and yellow/black on mine) from the remote onto the cars 12v (red/white on mine). Hook the black wire on the remote to car ground. It's not as hard as it sounds, once you have the schematics in front of you.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by xdata View Post
    My 20 bucks remote from Ebay works flawlessly since more than 5 years (once a year a new battery in the key...). It is connected to 'open' and 'shut' wire, plus and ground and the indicators. All these lines are behind the driver side lower dash kick panel on my 1998.
    Yes, probably the same device....

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by z3forlife View Post
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ghlight=Remote. Did you follow these instructions.
    Thank you for that. I thought I was following instructions, but all are missing important step. When toggling the key on/off 5 times, need to leave it in off position. My keyfob is now recognized, BUT while siren is chirping, it does not open and close doors or enables alarm. It simply chirps when I press the button. Almost like it’s set to some passive mode or something. Or rather valet mode.
    Last edited by DimrBimmer; 05-19-2018 at 11:55 AM.

  8. #8
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    It thinks something is open. Hood switch is first suspect on a blind guess.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    It thinks something is open. Hood switch is first suspect on a blind guess.
    I wish I had a manual. It’s doing 3 chirps every time I click the button. Would be nice to know the difference and the meaning between 1, 2 or 3 chirps ... let me check the hood switch. Definitely not trunk. Light goes out when I close it (did a cell phone video trick )

  10. #10
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    Three means a open switch and will not lock or arm. If you have inpa you can identify which one. Does your dome light behave correctly. If not then it's one of the doors otherwise probably hood unless you have a aftermarket stereo then it's probably that switch

  11. #11
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    If you have an after market radio, it could be the one behind the radio. You can just unplug the hood and/or the radio switch to eliminate them from the system.
    2002 M Roadster, Steel Gray Metailic, Gray Nappa Leather, Black Soft Top, Steel Gray Metailic Hard Top, TC Kline Double Adj Shocks with H&R Springs, Stromung Exhaust, SSR Type C Wheels. Looking for a new home.

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  12. #12
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    I do have aftermarket stereo. What am I looking for behind the radio? Where is that switch and any idea what it looks like? Dome light works fine. If it was the hood, I assume alarm would not go into learning mode? But aftermarket stereo that is 100% fact. Not using original BMW connection for sure.

  13. #13
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    There's a stub on the back of the stock head unit that inserts into the switch. If you remove the head you can unplug it. It also supports the rear of the head unit.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by z3forlife View Post
    There's a stub on the back of the stock head unit that inserts into the switch. If you remove the head you can unplug it. It also supports the rear of the head unit.
    Hmm. I never had the original stereo. Car came with old kenwood CD player in it, which I just replaced with something more recent with BT and USB. I might have to check realOEM or some other parts place to see a diagram or something...

  15. #15
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    If you pull your head unit out and look with a light I'm sure you'll see it. It should be straight back

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by z3forlife View Post
    If you pull your head unit out and look with a light I'm sure you'll see it. It should be straight back
    Ok, I found the original connector with nothing plugged in to it, so it seems. Looks like current aftermarket connector is spliced into original wiring. My glove compartment is out, repairing the sag. I have to get the car out of garage as I can only open driver seat. Passenger side will give me better visibility. It’s raining badly out, so will have to do this another day. So, you are saying that there will be something plugged into it? Or would it be the other way and I will have to plug something into it to close the circuit?

  17. #17
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    Ok, never mind my last post. Found the answer . Thank you!

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...isconnect-help
    Last edited by DimrBimmer; 05-19-2018 at 09:36 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by DimrBimmer View Post
    Ok, I found the original connector with nothing plugged in to it, so it seems. Looks like current aftermarket connector is spliced into original wiring. My glove compartment is out, repairing the sag. I have to get the car out of garage as I can only open driver seat. Passenger side will give me better visibility. It’s raining badly out, so will have to do this another day. So, you are saying that there will be something plugged into it? Or would it be the other way and I will have to plug something into it to close the circuit?
    There is a stick or finger sticking out of the OEM radio which slides into a hole in a plastic contraption behind the radio. If the finger is not in the hole, then the switch is closed and the alarm won't work. If you just unplug the switch, you bypass the switch. I'm also not sure your logic on the hood is true. The hood switch (which is a button pushed down by the hood) is on the radiator support on the driver's side. You can also just unplug it to bypass it.
    2002 M Roadster, Steel Gray Metailic, Gray Nappa Leather, Black Soft Top, Steel Gray Metailic Hard Top, TC Kline Double Adj Shocks with H&R Springs, Stromung Exhaust, SSR Type C Wheels. Looking for a new home.

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    2023 X5 M50, Phytonic Blue, Black Extended Merion Leather, Driving Asst Pro Pkg, Park Asst Pkg, Exec Pkg, Climate Comfort Pkg.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by khammack View Post
    There is a stick or finger sticking out of the OEM radio which slides into a hole in a plastic contraption behind the radio. If the finger is not in the hole, then the switch is closed and the alarm won't work. If you just unplug the switch, you bypass the switch. I'm also not sure your logic on the hood is true. The hood switch (which is a button pushed down by the hood) is on the radiator support on the driver's side. You can also just unplug it to bypass it.
    For a moment there I wasn’t sure if you are talking about my car or my wife.... LOL... I hear you. The goal is to open the circuit, not to close it. I get it now. Thank you all! I will take the stereo out tomorrow. Looking at it from the glove compartment side (that is currently off for sag repair), I can not see any hole or switch or any wires. Will report back tomorrow.

  20. #20
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    Great success. Removed the stereo and there it was, the switch. Someone already had a zip-tight over it, but that was not good enough. I just unplugged the wires from it and I am all good. Thank you to this board members! Love this place. Now off to next project. Radio signal amplifier, glove compartment sag, sliding seats, seatbelt guides, subwoofer replacement and many, many more
    Last edited by DimrBimmer; 05-21-2018 at 10:02 AM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by DimrBimmer View Post
    Great success. Removed the stereo and there it was, the switch. Someone already had a zip-tight over it, but that was not good enough. I just unplugged the wires from it and I am all good. Thank you to this board members! Love this place. Now off to next project. Radio signal amplifier, glove compartment sag, sits sliding, seatbelt guides, subwoofer replacement and many, many more
    Great to hear you got this resolved. When I saw the post just now, I was goingto come in and suggest that switch, because that was my issue when installing the factory alarm/keyless as well.
    1998 Z3 1.9L Dinan Stage 3.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyfloyd View Post
    Great to hear you got this resolved. When I saw the post just now, I was goingto come in and suggest that switch, because that was my issue when installing the factory alarm/keyless as well.
    But what to do if there is no switch behind the radio? A '98 Z3 I'm working on never had the OEM alarm/keyless, but it is wired behind glovebox for one, just no radio switch.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TE5LA View Post
    But what to do if there is no switch behind the radio? A '98 Z3 I'm working on never had the OEM alarm/keyless, but it is wired behind glovebox for one, just no radio switch.
    Just an FYI. The “switch” doesn’t really look like your typical switch. It’s a rectangular hole, right behind the stereo. Towards the bottom of it there is a connector with two wires I believe. It’s a stubborn little fellow. Just yank it out to open the circuit. If not there, Hiw do you know if the car is prewired for it? Is there a loose green connector behind glove compartment? Do you have an LED mounted on the dash?

  24. #24
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    Hopefully you'll be ok since the circuit is N/O anyway. You could try it if it has the factory plug for one but I assume you also don't have a siren under the hood so lock/unlock may be all you get.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DimrBimmer View Post
    Just an FYI. The “switch” doesn’t really look like your typical switch. It’s a rectangular hole, right behind the stereo. Towards the bottom of it there is a connector with two wires I believe. It’s a stubborn little fellow. Just yank it out to open the circuit. If not there, Hiw do you know if the car is prewired for it? Is there a loose green connector behind glove compartment? Do you have an LED mounted on the dash?
    There is no switch, it's just a plastic piece with a hole in it for the support. There are no wires.

    I know it's wired for security because I've already installed the entire system to the plug behind the glove box. The connector is black, not green. I think the green plugs are used only on the Alpine-made OEM system that connects to the black plug in the car via a harness. The pin-out is like this:

    http://www.waycoolinc.com/z3/book/scheme.html
    Last edited by TE5LA; 08-01-2018 at 11:37 PM.

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